Happy 20-Something Birthday!

morning message from Priya

morning message from Priya

Sparky grumbles, I open my eyes, and my alarm goes off. Caleb takes a picture of my waking up birthday face and then sings me the ever popular song in his own version. The puppies greet me with smelly breath and when I’m ready to go downstairs so are they. Caleb to work, dogs to poo, and vomit to clean up. There was also pee on the floor again. I don’t think it’s a missing me thing as much as it’s a senior citizen thing. I might be getting these old folks some diaper floor pads – or teach them how to use a mop!

entrance to Nattinpuram restaurant

entrance to Nattinpuram restaurant

I met Priya at her house at 11am. She warned me that lunch would be a lot, so we could wait and eat later. She gifted me with a Toblerone bar, a shiny silver clutch, and a big brown purse with a cool way to close it. We looked at images of temples to visit in India for an hour if I’m able to go with her in December. I need a visa prior to entry and found a plane ticket for $380 today. We had some tea and then looked at my blog, showing her some of my trips, old pictures of me (with chubby cheeks – her words, not mine), and pictures of family.

fountain to my right

fountain to my right

We got carried away and soon it was 2pm. The GPS got us two blocks away and we asked for directions from three different guys before Priya recognised the parking lot of Nattinpuram and we found a spot in the shade. We go inside, around the corner, and down two sets of stairs. There is a fountain in the middle and we got seated next to it. Priya ordered a water and we had banana leaves set down in front of us and then food delivered in buckets and trays. The first item was two small peppers and some banana chips. I was surprised to bite into the pepper but glad to have water available.

lunch on a banana leaf

lunch on a banana leaf, all you can eat for BD3

Next came veggies, curries, rice, chicken chunks and a drumstick, and fish with bone and without. There was also some crunchy chip-like things and more vegetables. I ate with my right hand and tried the digestive liquid, buttermilk, and jaggery drink with my left. I was so full and a waiter came by and asked if I liked the food. I was stuffed but they brought another drumstick and some more curry to cover my rice. I was so proud of my eating skills, and not licking my fingers. We had fun watching the English-speaking couple on the other side of the fountain using both hands to scoop food in all directions.

serving dishes

serving dishes

I don’t get to see Priya eat much usually. Perhaps she has a large breakfast, but she wasn’t shy about this meal. She was able to finish her rice and more of her fish because it didn’t have as much bone in it as mine. We went to wash our hands and then decided to go to Dana Mall to avoid the heat. It’s a tiny place with a Lulu’s inside. I got distracted by the children’s play area, Chakazoolu, which turns out to be just as  much fun for adults.

alligator bench reminds me of 90s Dinosaurs TV Series

alligator bench reminds me of 90s Dinosaurs TV Series

I got to watch a woman play Fruit Ninja on a large touch screen and then give her toy tickets to kids. I saw a roller coaster in the advertisement and was blown away to see it inside going throughout the entire area. We went to the ticket counter after asking the Ninja and her husband about the roller coaster that scares him. We paid 3 dinars for both of us. They put that amount on a card that you swipe at the gate (that we found after walking around and asking directions) to get in.

Jungle Storm roller coaster through Chakazoolu

Jungle Storm roller coaster through Chakazoolu

We set our bags down, I turned on my video, and the ride operator gave us a thumbs up. I thought this was a children’s ride, but we whipped around corners so fast I thought we were going to fly out of our seat or off the track. Priya was screaming and holding my arm for dear life. The couple was standing below watching us. Everyone in there could hear us. I was laughing. Then the ninja woman recommended we go to the 7D Cinema and watch the Dinosaur Adventure. It’s 2.5 dinars each for this. We sit in the middle seats, put our bags on the floor, and our seat belts on.

door to the seventh dimension

door to the seven dimensions

The operator gives us our goggles and the show begins. We our spit on and have things crawling on us. We get covered in bubbles and see snow. It was amazing and scary and fun. And already 5pm. I took Priya home, walked the dogs, and then Caleb texted me that he was off work. I picked him up at the gate, got gas (while the car in front of us spewed gas) and the pump guy said it was ok because they came in on the wrong side. We are going to Casa Mexicana for dinner. I will be saving room for dessert – if I can even eat that.

banana ole at Casa Mexicana

banana ole at Casa Mexicana

Caleb gets a burrito with yummy white sauce and mushrooms. I order a lime mint and after I try a bite of his dinner, and he finishes, we order the banana ole at 8pm. We are halfway through that when Eloise shows up. She had been sitting in the back enjoying dinner with Patrick. She wishes me a happy birthday and says we will have to get together this week to celebrate. At home we watch a movie with Ben Stiller – falling in love with someone else on his honeymoon and having her come back to him 18 months later when her current relationship didn’t work out either.

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Celebrating Ganesh

Sparky missed me

Sparky missed me

I got home late and I think the cleaning took longer than I realised. The dogs might’ve been hungry when we laid down, but I wasn’t getting back up. I’d had four long exciting days and needed some rest. A shower was refreshing and on our morning walk I saw Kim with one of her dogs. She asked how Heather did and I told her she’d had to clean up a lot of pee. I texted Julie that there was no rush on the key, so I could eat breakfast.

Julie asked if I got the note and told me that Heather had to borrow her mop to clean up all the messes. She sounded a bit upset and I think she thinks that I underpaid knowing this would happen and that I won’t tip for the difficulties. I’m going to tip to keep things nice, but I debate using her services again. At least she took care of them, but I don’t know why they were constantly going inside. And she didn’t have to bother cleaning up the mess, but I don’t like that she left a bag of it on my table. I will let her know these things for her next dog sitting gig.

Ganesh - a lucky omen on Priya's door

Ganesh – a lucky omen on Priya’s door

Breakfast was a pudding from the fridge, some cookies from my bag, and a cup of juice. I spent the afternoon catching up on emails and looking into finding a job. I left home at 4:45 on my way to Priya’s to celebrate Ganesh Chahurthi dressed in the Indian tunic she gave me, the henna from Abu Dhabi, and the bindi that she gifted me with as well. We have traditional snacks, lots of chickpeas and jaggery and yumminess, and she exchanges some with her neighbor who came over to admire her pandal (temporary shrine).

Priya and me in front of I Heart BH at Manama Souq

Priya and me in front of I Heart BH at Manama Souq

Caleb gets off work at 6pm. I drop Priya off at the gate because she forgot her ID. The guard is impressed with my get-up and compliments me. I pick Caleb up, then Priya, and we are on our way to Bab Al Bahrain (Manama Souq) to visit the temple. We turned right too early and had to go through a security check in the Financial Harbor District. I pointed to the souq, “We want to go there.” He gave Priya directions in their native tongue, but I understood, “right, right, far left, u-turn, right.”

photos of souq in 1950s

photos of souq in 1950s

Priya’s work has an office nearby and we are able to park in their empty lot to walk across the street. The roads are as full as the sidewalks. We go inside to cool down and then we join the line of people buying sacraments to present at the temple. When we get close we drop our shoes off next to the other 300 pairs. Across the courtyard, up the steps, and into a room. We stand there in awe while Priya does her thing.

Lord Shree with Shree Bal

Lord Shree with Shree Bal

Outside it’s time to get in line for temple food – rice, chickpeas, curry, and a bit of something crunchy. Eat with your right hand and when you’re done you can put your plate in the trash, wash your hand at the sink, and then grab a shared cup to pour water down your throat. I would’ve gotten something to drink, but was distracted by a woman’s sari, so Priya said as much and the mom told her three daughters to stand by me so that the dad could take a picture. I was probably the only one smiling so foolishly, but Priya tells me the friendliness is like this all over Chennai and has invited me to go there to see her daughter if she doesn’t come here and go to Ferrari World – hopefully she has time for both.

Ganesh at temple

Ganesh at temple

My shoes are hidden underneath a stroller. We pass a shop that sells drinks and go inside to cool off while Priya orders me the cup of tea I saw advertised outside. I thought the hot bubble in the picture was ice. I was mistaken. Caleb offers to take the burning cup of beverage from my hand so that I can handle the bottle of water we buy to share. Time to leave. Caleb was going to get directions to a park so we could walk but we decided on air conditioning instead at Seef Mall.

spice selection in souq

spice selection in souq

Left turn, up the ramp, near pillar N3, inside, up and down, and all around. I brought my tea with me and drank until I hit grounds. Back to the car and there’s a lot of honking going on. The exit traffic is at a standstill. I guess this is what weekend traffic is like and we are stuck in line for 45 minutes before the first a-hole shows up to claim his prize. We are in the parking lot, so cars can go both ways, but this guy wants to turn it into a personal pass-everyone-else lane and then I see cars getting in behind him so I manoeuvre the car to keep my spot and block him from advancing.

ball pit at Seef Mall

ball pit at Seef Mall

He gets out of his car and comes over to my window. He tells me, “Go!” Caleb waves him off from the backseat and then I hear the door handle get pulled on. My heart was beating a thousand times a second as what could happen played through my mind, but luckily cars have that auto-lock safety feature built-in and this guy didn’t feel like breaking our window. At one point he gets close enough to push my side mirror forward with his car. I roll the window down to adjust it and roll it back up.

Caleb on the chop-choo train

Caleb on the choo-choo train

We get to a turn and him and another car make their way to my left while the cars we are merging with on the right keep it tight so I have to wait for two of them to pass before squeezing in. They didn’t get that much further ahead. This is definitely not the part of Bahrain I look forward to when waking up in the morning. It would’ve been different if he was in an SUV and could jump the curb, but the car behind him was lower than ours.

We are headed back to Priya’s at 10:45, run over a piece of flaming tire, and she invites us in, but I let her know that Caleb was falling asleep in the backseat and needs to go to bed. I grab the food she packed for me earlier and say good night. At the intersection I see five cops in riot gear, three riot vehicles, and two small flames. Then with the burst of flame Caleb announces the Molotov cocktail. Well, that’s great, but it’s time to go.

I walk dogs while Caleb gets ready for work tomorrow – yes on a weekend (because they had an early weekend in Abu Dhabi) and yes on my birthday (because I celebrated in Abu Dhabi, tonight, and will again tomorrow, and perhaps the day after as well).

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The World’s Fastest Roller Coaster, in Abu Dhabi

photogenic camel

photogenic camel

Just entering Ferrari world feels amazing. I get out of the cab, cross the street, and go inside. There are gifts and snacks available before you take the escalator up. I got my bag checked and the guard was kind enough to put my glass bottle inside a pocket so it wouldn’t be seen before I could put it in a locker. You’re allowed 300 ml of water (not in glass) along with diabetic and/or baby food. It was fast and easy to buy my ticket, 240 dirham, with credit card and I was given another ticket, 35 dirham, for my locker – super technology.

With map and camera in hand, I bypassed everything until I saw the sign for Formula Rossa – The World’s Fastest Coaster. There was no one in line. I gave the staff my loose items to put in a plastic bucket. They gave me a rubber band with a number attached in return. I grabbed some goggles and got in line for the front. I was joined with a ten-year old boy and I wanted to be close to the camera, but he wanted to be close to his family that was filming, so I got on first.

engine on display

engine on display

The ladies on the platform give the safety check thumbs up after they’ve eyeballed for too short or tall a rider, taken any sunglasses or cellphones still in hand, and given nomex-like hoods to women wearing any head covering, sans hat, or traditional dress. How neat, I thought. Where I come from I’m taught these women are oppressed, but here they are free to wear what makes them feel comfortable and follows their religion while riding roller coasters, swimming at the beach, and eating sushi at the mall.

car on display

car on display

I had of course asked if I could bring my 1.5 pound camera with me and was warned that it would hit me in the face. I heard about the time Fabio Lanzoni got bludgeoned by a goose and there was more recently a small boy who got hit by a bird on a coaster that reaches 128 mph. We were embarking on a zero to 149 mph, in 4.9 seconds, ride. We would be experiencing 4.8 degrees of G-force for a minute and a half. This is the speed at which cotton and copper and cameras can damage you and other passengers.

World's Fastest Roller Coaster - Formula Rossa

World’s Fastest Roller Coaster – Formula Rossa

I’m grateful for the safety precautions. The engine steams as it’s misted with water between rides. The staff women make sure we’re seat belted and lap barred in. Multiple buttons are pushed, to ensure no accidental launch occurs, as the music (or my heartbeat) speeds up. I know it’s going to be fast, but I have no idea what to expect. The ride seems to creep, for only a second, as the front of the car rolls outside. I look up at the camera and then…

4.8 G's of facial goodness

4.8 g’s of facial goodness

We shoot forward and the water that was sprayed on the engine to help cool it off is now blowing in my face as we shoot forward at 240 km/h. I’m rendered speechless as we reach the top and I can’t see the track before the bend. This is the point where headbands, loose bracelets, and pocket paraphernalia are blown off. Another turn and we are pulling back in with an abrupt stomp on the brakes. That ride took my breath away and rearranged my fancy hair-do in moments. I lost track of time and facial expressions. My brain has been pushed to the back of my skull and forced my lips into a smile. It will stay that way as I find my footing again when the car stops.

The Racing Legends

The Racing Legends

I saw that there still wasn’t a line and wasn’t the only one making my way up the stairs to get back in line downstairs. There is a sign upon exit that warns about riding again within 15 minutes, something about your body going through shock – in a great way! The ladies smiled when they recognised me. This time I sat in the back and it was more of a bumpy ride. Knowing what to expect I attempted to scream, to throw up my arms, and to turn my head. Each act was met with the terrifying thought of loss, but the same amount of awe in the power and ingenuity built into this amazing roller coaster.

Galleria Ferrari

Galleria Ferrari

I got off the ride and felt light-headed. I knew I needed to wait before going again or I would be stumbling off the next time. Perhaps I should call Guinness and offer to set the world record for consecutive rides in an hour or a day. I went upstairs and made my way to the photo center to look at the pictures. I don’t usually buy roller coaster photos, but I did ride twice and they take two pictures – one on the initial bolt and another on a turn. They have a special on two photos and the lady took time to show me all four so I could pick the best two for 150 dirham.

Tyre Change Experience

Tyre Change Experience

I wanted to put my pictures away so I made my way towards the lockers, and I had to use the facilities, but this didn’t stop me from seeing all there was while I was walking by. First was walking into a wind pod room. You press buttons to increase the speed of a fan from 10 to 50 kph as you stand and squat to get the feel of the aerodynamics that goes into the construction of a race car. The Racing Legends was next and the staff pulled a car seat out before letting us take our seats. I thought about being concerned, but I’m not an infant.

cute random kid

cute random kid

Next was Galleria Ferrari where I saw cars that set records and that were built for anniversaries. There is a tire changing station where you can compete with someone for best time and a photo opportunity to sit behind the wheel of a Ferrari and let the staff post the picture to Facebook for a chance to win a new ride to school. I wish this was offered near where I went to high school, but then someone would’ve just wrecked a $200k car instead of the Nova, Corolla, and Cadillac I drove – total worth: $20,000.

Speed of Magic

Speed of Magic

The next ride was Speed of Magic, where you chase Nello in a 4-D adventure. The ride is only five minutes, but the artists spent thousands of hours on the computer images, and I wish I could’ve spent more time there. At 2:15 I was getting on the Fiorano GT Challenge coaster, after waiting through three rides, that only goes a measly 100 kph – not much after being on one over twice as fast. I’m sure it’s a great ride, and I suggest doing this one first.

Berlinetta Blast

Berlinetta Blast

From there, I went to Made in Maranello where I’m given a peek at a part of the secret process that goes into making these great cars. I passed the flume ride, mini-Italy, and interactive game show to see the Paddock where they store horse power and parts. I didn’t feel like waiting on the theatre or paying extra for the Scuderia Challenge simulator and found myself in line at Mamma Rosella’s ordering the “Ravioli alle Erbette” advertised on the park map.

Fiorano GT Challenge

Fiorano GT Challenge

I got to watch the chef prepare my meal from pot to plate and on my way to pay spotted the dessert island. I wasn’t going to get anything, but there was one piece with a chocolate with Ferrari World written on it that I thought I could post to Facebook and it managed to jump on my tray while I was distracted.  Lunch was spinach ravioli and pineapple cake had at a marble top table in a wooden chair with a checkered cloth napkin. With lunch over I was making my way back to the main event of the park – Formula Rossa, but not before getting in line to see what awaited me in Viaggio in Italia.

Made in Maranello

Made in Maranello

There was a dad in front of me with his five kids, four sons and a daughter, and two pretty girls got in line behind me. We were led into a room, watched a two-second film, and then a door into a larger room opened with rows of roller coaster seats lifted off the floor. I thought the chairs might swing a bit and we were told to put our flip-flops, sunglasses, and cameras into a plastic tub off to the side of the platform. We sat there waiting as each seating issue meant the whole row had to be unlocked.

Scuderia Challenge

Scuderia Challenge

I only saw two things get fixed – one boy sat with both his legs on one side; and his dad, no matter how hard the three ladies pushed, couldn’t fit him into the seat. We waited for him to switch seats, hoping the end would give him more room, and then waited on the other side of the room. I hoped this ride was worth the wait, so I was thrilled when the lights dimmed and our seats began to rise. I looked over for a better view of the stacks of seats. They didn’t want us dropping things from such heights – which fit the ride perfectly.

I wanted to ride the world’s fastest roller coaster one more time before leaving. The sign out front said the wait was thirty minutes and it was probably only twenty, but I wanted up front. I got excited when I thought I saw a guy riding single. I asked the staff, she asked him, and I made my way to third back only to find out there was another single behind him. Luckily, nine back was another single and I finished the rest of my hour wait next to him. If I’d been in more of a rush I could’ve sat in the second seat of the first car. It would still be as thrilling, but it was worth the wait.

kid baby/camera sitting while parents get some g-force!

kid baby/camera sitting while parents get some g-force!

We, me and the guy with his four friends, were next up when the staff came by to announce that VIP would take the next ride. There was six of them – two got in front and four in the far back. Then the ride was allowed to finish filling. I tried to ask if they were royalty, rappers, or basketball stars, but we were only told they were important enough to get front of line privileges without a pass, and probably park entry for free since they didn’t pay to have the park to themselves.

Ready, Set...

Ready, Set… 149 mph!

Upon their return the man on the left screamed, “That ride was fast as shit!” I don’t think the children were the only stunned ones. What surprised me was the girl wearing only a sweater that was waiting in line when I climbed aboard. Other travellers are either braver, unnecessarily rude, or more naïve than me to wear things like that in a culture that finds modesty more important than a beach in Spain; especially when signs are posted, but it’s doubtful they have more proper attire in their purse.

$500 shoes

$500 shoes

I was so anxious and excited to be doing the ride again. This time I was able to scream and put my arms up twice. It’s so thrilling. By now it’s 5pm, too late to go too far, but too early to go to the airport. I see the Yas Express map on the way out and the information center guy told me I could have luck with a view and possibly a ride on the track at Yas Central. I thanked him and walked through the gift shop (park exit) full of magnets, mugs, camels, logo shirts, luggage, $500 shoes, and some memorabilia. All the staff at Ferrari World are helpful, attentive, and the epitome of service with a smile.

belts, scarves, glasses, etc.

belts, scarves, glasses, etc.

I went down the escalators and across the street to the two Ferraris from Dubai with hot engines in the parking lot before standing by the bus stop. We left there at 5:50 and got to Yas Central at 6:16. I went inside and inquired about a ride. I was told to go upstairs. The guy at the desk told me to go downstairs and pick out a car – open or closed, or Aston Martin. I wanted the open ride. There was already one on the track, but back upstairs was another guy at the register and when he went to check availability he told me the next one would be in 45 minutes – too late for me and probably better for my wallet.

hot Ferrari from Dubai

hot Ferraris from Dubai

I watched the sunset over the track and ordered a forest mint-caramel coffee to go. I took pictures of the tips in the jar – 10 Saudi riyal ($2.67) and 10,000 Korean won ($9.57). As soon as the sun disappeared I walked inside and got a guy to take my picture inside a Yas Radical SST – a $327 experience to drive around the track. I walked out front and moments later the bus was pulling up. The driver commented on my length of stay or rather how I didn’t have enough time to participate, but I assured him Abu Dhabi had been a grand adventure and I won’t mind having to come back.

sunset over the track

sun over the track

He dropped me off at Ferrari World where all the nearby taxis are and I was hailed my first woman driver. She really knew how to handle turns and speed bumps and had me to the airport in minutes. Of all the drivers I wanted to talk to, she was the silent type. The cost worked out perfectly – my last two 20 dirham and three fils. A guy directly inside the front door tries to offer me a speed option through security for 100 dinars – I think not! I don’t see a line out the door and there are only three men and a bucket catching a drip from the ceiling in front of me.

satisfied customer

satisfied customer

I showed my passport to the agent and asked if I could take a picture of the cute gate, complete with Abu Dhabi police logo, that I would go through once he pushed a button. He said yes. I put my bag through the x-ray and then made my way towards Gate 11 past the bright yellow Lamborghini in the middle of the terminal. Near the entrance to the passage that leads to the gate is a shopping center selling Swarovski, Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Cheetos, camel figurines, international plug adapters, and a shelf of books by author John Green. There are more shops downstairs, but I’m distracted by the seven magazines I’ve picked up that are available for free.

ready to go again!

ready to go again!

I sit near the entrance to the gate security line area and wait. Twice I’m persuaded to jump up, grab my bag, and jump in line. And both times I’m told to turn around as the plane currently boarding is not going to Bahrain. I go back to ‘my’ seat (the one claimed for the evening) as a man was about to sit. I guess he felt uncomfortably close at two chairs away and chose to move further. This opened the seat next to me for an old woman who either tried to share where she was from or where she was going with me. I smiled and said, “Bahrain” and pointed to my gate.

Tucano Coffee

Tucano Coffee

My boarding pass said we were departing at 9:20 and we didn’t get the call to embark until 9pm. We had to go through another security scan to check people’s newly stuffed shopping bags. Between the jet bridge and the plane is the adapter curtain with a wheelchair in front of it and a sign posted, “Warning, risk of falling” with a man falling backwards off a step. I don’t know if the curtain connects to the bottom, but I hope the ramp doesn’t move while we’re on it. Once safely on the plane, past the sleeping children in first class, I make my way to 42B where the Purser, attendant in charge, is standing watch.

Lamborghini terminal, Abu Dhabi Airport

Lamborghini terminal, Abu Dhabi Airport

The guy beside me, by the window, starts to nod off before the safety brief. We take off at 9:53 and water is served in-flight, but no snacks – except to the child in front of me that’s given first class pudding, cheese, and crackers and the snotty brat only wants the cookies. The attendants seem to think the flight too short to offer food, but they are quick to hand out headphones for in-flight entertainment and wake people who have traveled for a day to put their seats and tray tables up, and those that are awake to put all their electronics away – all this before the captain announces to do so.

airport near Gate 11

airport near Gate 11

I understand that the crew didn’t deem the 45 minute flight a sufficient amount of time to serve over 150 passengers snacks, so I opened the bruised banana that had been with me since breakfast. I was grateful for the treat as I’d been spoiled on the way to Abu Dhabi by Etihad Airways and was not receiving the same level of service on my return flight via KLM. I tried to get the attention of a stewardess and upon failing I left a banana peel in the backseat – a first for me as I could’ve taken it off the plane easily, but it was an active act of passive aggression.

free reading material

free reading material

There is a family in the aisle and the parents are discussing the drive home via the Saudi Causeway that could add another hour or two to their long day depending on traffic. Then I meet a woman with her son in the passport line that’s hoping her husband is on the other side for their ride to Saudi too. They moved in with him in May, but went home to Houston for Ramadan, and the kid starts school on Sunday full of jet lag. All the discussion distracted me and she worked her way in front of me. She got charged four dinars for her passport stamp. After waiting in line for 20 minutes, even with her cutting, I got my stamp in seconds after handing the officer both passports.

I was thrilled to get a picture of the Welcome to Bahrain sign that I missed on my first entry to this country. Outside I was able to snap a blurry photo of an art camel and then catch the bus as it was leaving. I paid my four dinar for parking and enjoyed the short drive home. Sparky barked when I pulled up. I saw a note on the counter on top of mine. It told me that my dogs used the house as a bathroom and that Heather didn’t mind coming back to clean it up. There in the middle of the floor was a puddle of pee and on my table a bag of a roll of TP with pee, if not poo, helping to aromatise my home.

I grabbed the mop and scrubbed some to try to help the smell. I walked the dogs and they both pooped. There were pieces of dog food on the floor, their bowl had more hairs than water in it, and only a half of one bottle had been used – then why all the pee? I wasn’t going to unpack my bag, but I didn’t want the dogs chewing any food out of it and needed my phone charger which reminded me that the upstairs outlets still hadn’t been fixed. It would be a late night, but I had the energy from my trip to keep me going.

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The World’s Fastest Bird, in Abu Dhabi

sign on the window, room 529, Le Meridien

sign on the window, room 529, Le Meridien

I got up at 7am and made some English Breakfast tea. It was boiling as I got dressed and I sipped it while looking through the Introduction to the City book, before going down to the buffet offered at Talay. I sat facing the window and enjoyed a large meal over a course of 30 minutes. I went to the lobby to check out and collect my Starwood points that will credit to my account in 48 hours. I checked Facebook for ten minutes and then went outside for a taxi.

cup o' tea, English Breakfast

cup o’ tea, English Breakfast

I told the driver, “Falcon Hospital” and the guy was on the phone when the outdoor concierge and another employee from the hotel were trying to give him directions. They said I should get another taxi and escorted me to the one pulling up, “He knows where he’s going”. I debated going to Al Forsan that has paintball, a racetrack, equestrian activities, and shooting, but that seems it would be more fun to do with someone. This way I will have the largest hospital that treats the fastest bird in the world and the fastest roller coaster on the planet in the largest indoor theme park to add to my to-done list.

Falcon Hospital waiting room

Falcon Hospital waiting room

The driver tells me that a lot of the newer drivers don’t know where the hospital is – in a patch of desert past the airport – probably because so many people are concerned with rides where I’m capable of walking. We arrive at the hospital at 9:50, I pay the driver 70 dirham, and walk inside to ask the length of the tour. The driver wanted to wait, but the man said he would call me another taxi, so I don’t have to pay 30 dirham an hour for the two-hour wait time. I paid my AED170 tour fee with a 200 dirham bill and sat in the lounge area waiting for change and the tour to start.

showing off in the waiting room

showing off her wingspan in the waiting room

 

Waiting with me was a mother from Greece, who speaks seven languages, and her three kids, the daughter being the eldest, and three men waiting on birds. I looked at the falcons, sitting on turf covered benches, and smiled. I love watching them look around with their eyes covered. As long as they can’t see their neighbor, they won’t attack them – and these birds aren’t cheap. But when at home, with four or more possible roommates, they’re housed together to keep them friendly.

feathers, caps, needles, chopsticks, super glue, GPS transmitter, and arm sleeve

feathers, caps, needles, chopsticks, super glue, GPS transmitter, and arm sleeve

We are joined by a couple from Germany, the wife more bilingual than the husband, and a couple from Australia. I’m impressed with the amount of Deutsch the guide could speak, but there was one translation issue as to whether the word meant ‘to eat’ or ‘to reproduce’. I could understand the confusion as one word sounded like food and the other the process of cooking, not mating. We got an introduction in the museum – with pictures on one wall and birds in jars on another. We were offered juice during this time.

nails before the pedicure

nails before the pedicure

Our guide was humorous as he informed us of the three main species of falcon (also the national symbol) used in this area – Peregrine, Saker, and the Gyrfalcon. We were taught that the falcons live on mountains but migrate here, only eat fresh meat, and can carry twice their body weight. But the most interesting to me was learning that these birds are important enough to get official passports (sans photo because of annual moulting) so they can fly first class with their handlers to other countries where using them for hunting has yet to be outlawed.

a full syringe of vaccines

a full syringe of vaccines

We are brought back into the clinic and shown the different species and told that female birds are preferred for their larger size. A falcon is brought over and a plastic cone slipped loosely over her head, with room for gas to escape, but enough to make her pass out. The older boy thought they were killing the bird and his mother had to convince him otherwise. Now the doctor can trim talons and beak and load the strong little legs with plenty of vaccine fluids. These are powerful birds and I wouldn’t want to mess with them without drugs, a leather glove, or the voice of a Disney princess. 

buffing the beak with a hand drill after it's been trimmed

buffing the beak with a hand drill

We are shown the wingspan and I’m able to feel the bird’s tender heartbeat, the smoothness of its feathers, and the softness of her feet protected by newly trimmed nails. Her minimum speed is over twice as fast as a cheetah at 260 km/hr. Falcons are used for hunting as well as beauty shows. We get a quick look at the bird’s eyelids, ears, and mouth before she starts to wake up again and we are shown how her mask is put on. I thought it would be difficult, but they have been well-trained – enough to deliver prey live in return for meat of their own. 

trimming of the beak 'teeth'

trimming of the tomial teeth

Next we are shown the drawers full of ‘prosthetic’ feathers – ones that have been found from moulting birds. The doctors are able to attach them via needle on the top half (thin part of the feather) and with a chopstick and glue on the bottom half (where some people make pens). This only lasts until the falcons moult and get new ones annually, but each feather plays an important role in agile flight and finding the best match in weight, length, etc. is vital in maintaining the birds ability to fly. 

two drawers full of  labeled feathers

just two of the drawers full of labeled feathers

We get to hold a trained falcon – one that doesn’t have to wear a mask and doesn’t feel the need to make your face the next meal – with a glove on and then a tiny one, half the size of the other, on our bare hand. Once the guy taking photos figured out how to hold the shutter button down until it clicked on my camera he took a few pictures of me from different angles. Once everyone had a turn it was time to watch the feathered falcon tear chunks off the bald, raw bird the girl was holding until her arm got tired.

a falcon posed on my hand

a falcon posed on my hand

We passed an operating room, complete with machines that go Bing! on our way to the trophy wall with awards from around the world on the hospital’s quality and excellence of treating these expensive birds. Back out into the bright sun to see three local owls, in their shaded pen, that have been injured and live here now. We were taken by golf cart to the moulting room to see five falcons hanging out in their air-conditioned/with open window space. The guide ask that we not get to close while in the same room as them and had to scold the mom for setting a bad example.

showing off her colors and cap

showing off her colors and cap while being weighed 

Back on the cart, the guide tells me he’s from Turkey and is going back in a month. I told him he should give my husband and I a tour, but then he quickly disappeared after showing us the last part of the tour – a golden banquet hall, a museum of photos and animals no longer living, a gift counter, and a photo opportunity with a live falcon, a stuffed camel, and you in traditional dress. One of the taxidermy treats in the museum is a gazelle, whose species is likely extinct, but I was lucky enough to spot its two cousins beside shrubbery behind the tall fences to protect them from the desert roads.

doctor and patient

doctor and patient

There is a cab outside waiting for me. I use the facilities and am in the backseat by 11:45 and on my way to Yas Island where Sajjad will drop me off 25 minutes later.

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Sunset Safari

city centre of Abu Dhabi as seen from Anantara Eastern Mangroves Hotel

city centre of Abu Dhabi as seen from Anantara Eastern Mangroves Hotel

We walked to breakfast at Talay, the hotel’s restaurant on the water, at 5:50 and were going to sit outside, but got overwhelmed by the size of the buffet, so we chose a table nearby the juice-water-yogurt stand. We were brought fresh coffee in the press, then made our way to the bowls of cereal, fruit, veggies, meats, breads, and pork, and the hot section with pancakes, eggs, sausage, and soup.

We ate, probably as usual, but it felt rushed and I didn’t mind because we had plans today. We walked to the front of Le Meridien at 6:20 and there was a taxi waiting. He got us to the Anantana Hotel 15 minutes later. Being there early gave us a chance to walk around and take in the view of the water, sun, city, and mangroves. Our guide arrived, we paid him 150 dirham each, then were given a safety brief – how to wear a floaty, and how to use the oars. This was the greatest piece of advice as usually my arms get tired, but keeping my elbows at 90 degrees and turning my body gave a more even motion and a nice workout.

dressed up for the mangroves kayaking tour

dressed up for the mangroves kayaking tour

Heading out was easy. I left my phone and camera and Caleb left his wallet so they would stay dry, even though we had a dry storage area. I should’ve brought my camera. The current carried us in past at least eight different species of birds – little egret, reef heron, redshank, graceful prinia, reed warbler, crab plover, white-collared kingfisher, black-necked stilt; and past thousands of crabs. Our guide Rian sounded very knowledgeable of the area and when we showed interest he opened up to us about his degree in biology and told us about the water, the plants, the animals, and the reason for the colors, sounds, and textures of things.

our tour guide looking into the sun

our tour guide, Rian

We learned how to differentiate male and female crabs and which ones are good to buy at the market. We learned about the circle of life for the local trees and how the salt from the water comes out of their leaves. We learned about the aerial roots that give them oxygen and the role the crabs play in maintaining the area. We stopped on a beach for our halfway break. Rian brought enough water and fruit cups for five people, three of which cancelled because they were still in bed when he called. He pointed out some fox holes and I tried to look in, but they are deep and dark.

paddling through the mangroves

paddling through the mangroves

After being there awhile we headed back into the current, but the paddling was still easy. Our guide is from the Philippines, spent some time in Iraq, and has lived here for two years. He loves his job and teaching the other guides more about the area they work in. We use the facilities inside at 10, after being offered more water and fruit upon our arrival on the dock. Their bathroom has fresh hand towels for personal drying and the toilet is motion or hand censored. One taxi drives away as another arrives. I love the service here.

lighting in Anantara

lighting in Anantara

I ask for a ride to City Centre and then we decide on Crowne Plaza because it should be near Capital Garden, and we end up near a tall shell-top looking building that happens to be next door to the large, indoor WTC Souk. We walk the other floors, ones we didn’t see yesterday, before making our way by Lake Park and then weaving through the tall buildings to find shade. We tried finding shawarma when we saw guys eating it and should’ve gone into the restaurant where it looked like they were cooking fresh bread.

Al Sayegh Centre - downtown architecture

Al Sayegh Centre – downtown architecture

We find our way back to Le Meridien at noon. This will give us a chance to desalt, desweat, and get some complimentary cappuccino downstairs before going to Abu Dhabi Mall to walk around before our ride to Port Zayed for our tour of the desert. We hand in our coupons and find a table. We are served small cups with large leaf designs in the foam. Caleb chugs his down while I try the chocolate chip with nut cookie. We were going to split a sandwich, but it was $16, so we waited for the mall. I buy three dates with different stuffing – hazelnut, pistachio (favorite), and chocolate covered jelly – at 2:30pm and eat them before noticing the Cinnabon.

extensive brush kit in a make-up store

extensive brush kit in a make-up store in WTC Mall

I didn’t want the large one that I’ve had maybe twice in the past, but I have to remember I’m overseas where portions come in many different sizes besides large and supersize. A mini-roll and bottle of water cost us $5.44. It was delicious on its plate covered with cream cheese and drizzled with chocolate. I lingered in the moment and Caleb was content with watching me eat something so good, but so bad for his butt and thighs. We got in a taxi towards the port at 3pm.

WTC Souk

WTC Souk

I thought the tour was leaving base at 3:30, but at 4pm it looked like we were still waiting for people to get out of their rack (tiny allotted sleep area). At 4:15 we were waiting on another vehicle so that we averaged five tourists and a driver to each car. It would be less comfortable to be bouncing around in the back shoulder to shoulder. We ended up in the boss’s car with someone up front and the back to ourselves. We left at 4:30. An hour and 80 km later we were hitting the sand.

river park

Lake Park

We parked by a camel farm with twenty or so eating hay and drinking water. There were some donkeys nearby but they walked away when we neared. I got to take a selfie with a camel and some of the guys were nice enough to take pics of Caleb and I together and me with the camel. I’m glad they all knew how to use my camera. Meanwhile, the drivers are letting air out of their tires to get better traction in the sand.

"Think I'll just have a few smokes before my nap in the shade."

“Think I’ll just have a few smokes before my nap in the shade.”

We stayed there for ten minutes then drove through the desert for thirty minutes. It was thrilling. I filmed for a while, but couldn’t capture the feeling of sliding down a sand dune or coming up on the peak and then going over at what seemed like high speeds to me. We came close to a tree and sand was flying by our windows, but I wasn’t scared. Our driver has done this since he was 12 and professionally for this company for the last eight years.

masons re-bricking the sidewalk

masons re-bricking the sidewalk

We had to find some of our group that had begun following another caravan and then we stopped to rest the cars and take in the view, take a group photo, and watch one guy do somersaults and another make a sand angel. Back in the car, over more dunes and we come to a road. We follow this, more sand, and then a village – or deserted booths that could be filled when the occasion called. We are led inside and I wonder where the rest of the group is. They have headed to the boards to sand surf.

new definition to roommate

roommate ads

I wait my turn for a board and drag it up the dune by one of the foot handles. I make it two-thirds the way up easily and then huff and puff my way up the rest. A guy from another group was the first to sit and many followed – including me. I was wearing a dress and didn’t want my bits showing. I made it quite far before walking the board back for Caleb to use. He got a picture of the sunset on his way up as I had him hold my camera when I went – which was a good thing considering how covered in sand I was just from the wind blowing it around our feet and me using my hand to support myself.

persistent foam

persistent foam in Le Meridien

We made our way inside the booth village, past the camel ride, and went to reserve a seat, grab some water, and use the facilities. I wondered what I would find inside and Caleb told me it would be a bucket – perhaps too much run off in the sand would ruin a natural spring nearby for the camels. I prepare myself as I walk in and see tile floors, flush toilets, and running water in the sinks. I wash my arms so that I can get henna done. I sit with the guys while waiting for the line to thin and then they follow me in there hoping to get manly things drawn on their arms.

dress with matching tire swing in Abu Dhabi Mall

dress with matching tire swing in Abu Dhabi Mall

I got some swirly designs from fingertip to mid-arm and was distracted talking while Caleb got his. I heard him say his name and was awed when I saw it written on his arm in Arabic, or the artist’s translation of it. That’s also what the other guys got – name or girly design. Caleb and I tried to teach them a bit behind the meaning of it. And one guy asked if you had to continually reply it after marriage. We sit around some more, and of course I’m the first one in line at the buffet when dinner is announced.

Caleb posing for a lady with a camera - and it's not me

Caleb posing for a lady with a camera – and not just me

I get pita, hummus, biryani, cauliflower, tabbouleh, coleslaw, and something warm on my dinner plate that has tomatoes in it. I’m handed a bowl of dessert. I clean my plate and wait for the line to clear before going back for seconds. Caleb grabs me another water. I’ve lost count of the bottle consumption today. The dessert is agreed to be either too sweet or a delicious mix of bread pudding and oatmeal. I agree with the former, but it doesn’t stop me from making sure that dish is clean too.

a camel drinking in the desert

a camel leaking water in the desert

I’m grateful I’m wearing a dress so my full stomach doesn’t have a waistband in the way. While we are sitting there digesting we are given a show at 8pm. A belly dancer comes out of one of the many tents where they also had tea and dates, Bedouin clothing to try on, and sheesha to smoke with your boss. She does a dance on stage with her winged outfit, another with a cane balanced on her boobs and a guy from the audience, another with a sword balanced on her side, and then she picked three girls from the audience. The two that stayed up there seemed to be proficient in their movements and one girl seemed to be singing along.

"Excuse us, but we're trying to drink here."

“Excuse us, but we’re trying to drink here.”

They put on a good show and then the lights go out so we can stargaze for ten minutes. We all moved our seat cushions back and used them as pillows. It was awesome. I enjoyed being barefoot in the desert with Caleb’s command. It felt relaxing and peaceful, not all official and uniforms and such. Then it was an abrupt, “good night, go home”.

not letting the paparazzi interrupt their dinner

not letting the paparazzi interrupt their dinner

Our driver was waiting for us at the exit and the camels were too. I missed sitting on them and feeling them get up and down. I will have to do that next time. I’m sitting in the car with the door open and the driver asks me to close it while he stands outside making sure everyone makes it back to their ‘assigned’ car. That lasts about five seconds before I open it again. He asks this time that I please close it and then apologizes when he feels that it’s warmer in the car than the 35 degrees outside. He thought he had left the air on.

dune bashing in action

dune bashing in action

While we had a good time at the village, the drivers went back to fill the tires with air for the drive home. We came over a dune and the boss pushed a car out of the sand. I thought Caleb could help, but he’s not allowed – can’t be hurting the military guests. Our driver talks on the phone the entire ride home. We had shared a laugh or two on the way there between calls and the music. It doesn’t bother me as it gives me and Caleb time to talk and we talked with the guy up front.

our safari group

our safari group while the guides let the trucks cool down

We get to the port at 9:30 and I ask for a ride to the mall/hotel. The driver asks Ops (operations officer) and he says ok, then the driver calls his boss and tells me sorry he can’t because it’s not a designated stop. The drivers leave at 9:45 and we follow on foot. The command has already gone onboard and Caleb called two numbers that won’t connect, don’t have service, or whatever. The number I call tells me to call the broken number and tells me no taxi when I ask to be picked up from the port.

Everybody's gone surfin',  surfin' UAE.

everybody’s gone surfin’,
surfin’ UAE

We make it to the road when a guard asks, “Sir, where are you going?” I respond for Caleb and tell the guy, “We are leaving base”. That seems to be enough for him and I see a security truck. I pause thinking they may pick us up, but they keep driving so we keep walking. We make it to the gate and the guard tells us next time to have our boss call him to call a cab. It’s too far to walk. It may be a mile and I don’t know what they are concerned with us seeing. One side is a wall and the other some machinery, lifts, and a few boats.

one of the many signs you're in the desert: you're covered in it

one of the many signs you’re in the desert: you’re covered in it

We make it past the market and to the second light intersection before we find a taxi that’s not full. We run across the last crosswalk, hop in the taxi, and the light turns green. He’s in the lane to take us to the hotel, but Caleb changes his mind and we go to the mall. It’s 10:30 and the mall closes at 11pm. We look at the map and then ask the guard about camera stores. He points to his left on this floor and to the right on the next floor.

Caleb's manly henna tattoo

Caleb’s manly henna tattoo

We go left and ask inside. It’s the last one in-stock for $34. My battery is going to die and I have another day in Abu Dhabi. I told Caleb I could use my phone, but remember that a battery was trashed (old and swollen) while in the Dragon Hotel, so this is just a replacement. We walk back to the hotel, past all the slightly dressed women in the parking lot approaching men, but none brave enough to face a couple.

In the room, Caleb offers to take some of the stuff from my bag so I don’t have as much to carry on the plane. I’m fine with that. It’s now 11pm and he needs to go. He gives me back my phone, cash, and ID that he kept for me in his pocket throughout the day. We had also stopped at the exchange in the mall to get me another 240 dirham so I can see the falcons, pay the taxis, and figure the rest out. He left for the port and I got in the shower. My hair will by half dry going to sleep, but I need rest. We are both dehydrated, even after all the water we drank. And I’m hoping for another long day tomorrow.

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