Awesome Drive Through Abu Dhabi

an apple a day...

an apple a day… at Port Zayed Vegetable Market

I woke up at 2:45 and jumped out of bed. Checked the time and went back to sleep. I woke again at 5:15, same thing, but this time I heard a hair dryer, so I got up myself. I love Kathrine’s place. The view from my room is lovely, even with the dried dirt on the window. I have my own shower and it’s stocked better than a hotel. Time to open the door and see what today brings. I was even able to charge my phone last night! It was down to 37%. It’s then that I find out that my phone didn’t update the time yet, even though it welcomed me to Abu Dhabi. I will turn on location services and be grateful I got up when I did.

a sign of things you can't do

a sign of things you can’t do inside Mina Zayed Port

Kathrine gave me a ride to the Mina Zayed Port and dropped me off in front of the fruit and veggie market. On the way there she shared a story with me about locking herself out of her car and then finding out the passenger door was unlocked after she asked for help. I walked to Gate 1, through the market, got a free green apple, and ate it on the way to Gate 2. The guard didn’t want me to walk to ‘the navy’ because of the long distance. Caleb finally got a ride from the chiefs at the same time I got a ride from port security.

the main entrance to the mosque

the main entrance to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

I met Caleb inside the air-conditioned building that’s between the road and his ship on the other side. Suppo got me two bottles of water. I drank one while we waited the 30 minutes for the tour guy to show up. He would only be taking four of us. Caleb, me, Monsegur (who was still in his rack), and Donaldson. We went by palaces (their meeting houses the size of a large office) on the way to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The tour driver had an abaya, that fit perfectly, and a hijab, that didn’t in the back of the van. I had so much trouble with the light scarf. I tried tossing it over my shoulders, then Caleb tied it in front, the tour guide tied it in back, and then I re-tied it twice.

a million floral details

a million floral details in the mosque

The mosque is huge and very beautifully detailed with mother-of-pearl. We walk up to the entrance and the guard points at the hijab. I walk up to him and the look of pure mortification on his face was worth it to suggest that he do something about this mess that I’m struggling with in the wind while trying to enjoy what little time I have here. I want to take in the height and width of the floral designs in the walls and on the marbled floors.

the wind tunnel in Masdar City

the wind tunnel in Masdar City

We take our shoes off and some stick to the black mat. I prefer the cooler temperature of the decorative floor. I have to pick up my dress and abaya to prevent myself from tripping over them. That bit of heel on my sandals comes in handy. We walk through the large, main prayer room, leaving so much unseen, but seeing the largest hand-tied carpet in the world and chandeliers that cost as much as the entire mosque in Bahrain. That’s quite impressive and worth the cost of the tour alone, but we have other places to see. Shoes back on, more pictures of columns and the courtyard, then take hejab off as soon as I see the parking lot.

model of Masdar City

model of Masdar City

We pass by the Aldar Headquarters circular skyscraper, one of many built around the world – Guangzhou Circle, China; Fang Yuan, Shenyang; Radisson Blu, Frankfurt – on our way to Masdar City, a campus living off-grid. After parking in a concrete scene from the future we take a magnetically driven car to a cluster of buildings above us and make our way upstairs to see the wind tunnel and all the solar panels on top of the building and in the distance past the parking lot. I’m glad I didn’t go out by myself, but it’s worth seeing.

Personal Rapid Transit - the car of Masdar City

Personal Rapid Transit – the car of Masdar City

My favorite part is the quiet car that runs smoothly and leaves plenty of space between vehicles and walls. I love the idea that no one would ever crash into me again, but I would miss the power of the wheel in my hand. In the main office is a model of the city. There was a business meeting or someone from the royal family surrounding it earlier so we had to wait to see the little people, bright lights, green trees, and solar-panelled roofs. It’s almost a perfect replica except that the streets don’t light up red yet, but leave black marks from tires, magnets, or recycled baby seals.

Museum

Manarat Al Saadiyat Museum entrance

The tour guide gets the car while we wait inside. I’m the first one out so I can better read the sign about the waterless carwash, but it doesn’t specify what is used instead. I would like to think they use children’s tears or melted gumdrops. We are driven out to Yas Island (bigger than it looks on the map) and by Marina Circuit – Grand Prix venue; Ferrari World – home of the world’s fastest roller coaster; Du Arena – 50,000 spectator concert venue; and Waterworld – where you can find the world’s first rattling waterslide.

the chair exhibit

the Chairs exhibit in Manarat Al Saadiyat Museum

We pass Yas Mall, IKEA, and the future sites of the Louvre and Guggenheim museums on our way to the Manarat Al Saadiyat Museum where the galleries are closed, but the architecture, Chairs exhibit, and gift shop remain open. There’s a ‘fat’ Porsche in front of Gallery 2 and I went under the door to have a look around before the curator came in to escort us out. Then I notice the sign for the British Museum “World in 100 Objects” exhibit – including the objects from the book that I read twice – and I’m bummed to have missed it by 25 days.

downtown in the distance

downtown Abu Dhabi in the distance

The two guys with us grab something from the café. It’s 12:40 pm and they are stuck to their military schedule. Donaldson finishes his sandwich as he gets in the van, but I get to listen to Monsegur finish his tuna. Maybe I should’ve volunteered Caleb for the middle seat or we could’ve sat further back on the way to Heritage Village. The tour guide stays in the van and gives us 30 minutes to see the leather, carpenter, glass, metal, pottery, etc. shops (pre-oil UAE) and the museum, but this one is closed too. We got a picture of the Abu Dhabi skyline from the beach and made it back to the car in 20 minutes.

view of downtown from Heritage Village

view of downtown from Heritage Village

Then we are dropped off in front of Marina Mall with an hour and a half to eat, shop, and meet back at the van. Caleb and I headed straight to the Sky Tower to see the view. You’re allowed up (as long as you buy a drink). There’s plenty of glass, water, and marble to keep those specialties in business; and then there’s the skating rink that might seem normal in New York City, a water park in Florida, or a hotel in San Diego, but here it makes sense to have an extra cold activity to combat the extreme heat. Though if you move your muscles create energy, so you’re better off just laying there.

pottery wall art at Heritage Village

pottery wall art at Heritage Village

I thought we would stop at one point, but the elevator kept going until we hit the V floor where Columbiano Cafe is located. Suppo was the first person I saw there with another guy having lunch. I ordered the Fabiano drink (mango and ice cream with passionfruit seeds) and shared a Greek Salad with Caleb. We ate all the veggies off with our fingers and then I had some of the lettuce. The feta was delicious. We decided to go upstairs to the R floor where the formal dining (and the awesome rotating floor) is, but were kindly blocked from walking around and interrupting other people’s meals.

the carpenter shop at Heritage Village

the carpenter shop at Heritage Village

Downstairs we passed by the More Cafe and Caleb had seen cheesecake. I saw them giving out bags and balloons and we sat down to complimentary water and shared a chocolate croissant. The restaurant opened yesterday and they are still celebrating. Their menu comes on sheets of paper nut and bolted to a large piece of hardened cardboard. I had thought we would get the bags without the balloons and since Caleb didn’t feel like giving them to a child he loudly popped them upstairs and threw away the pieces. Inside the bag is two sacks of cookies.

the desert from a giant's-eye view at Heritage Village

the desert from a giant’s-eye view at Heritage Village

We get lost for a moment, being one hall over from where we entered. Outside, we see the van and get in as the other two approach. We park near the entrance to the Miraj Islāmic Centre where things are handmade from the Muslim world – Egypt, India, Russia. We are shown into a room where a lady shows us a $1,000 rug and then twists it to show that we can be rough with it (for packing and traveling purposes) when we hear one of the gems fall to the floor. We all can’t help but laugh and leave the room. We walk around the other two floors looking at art for sale and then go outside to take a picture of the view.

Heritage Village in the foreground as seen from Sky Tower in Marina Mall

Heritage Village in the foreground as seen from Sky Tower in Marina Mall

We’re there 15 minutes and the van is cool upon our return. We visit the WTC Souk, our first one indoors and are told to stick to this level and don’t go outside. We wander around looking at kitty clocks, bags of frankincense, and balls of tea that turn into flowers. There are hair brushes and salt shakers with burkas on; and bits of camel bone artistically carved and shaped into a large horn. Inside Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory is a piñata-like camel carrying a load of chocolate. We are given a sample to satisfy our craving.

drink and menu in Sky Tower

Fabiano drink and menu in Sky Tower

We finish looking at the mini-rugs for computer mice and cups of tea from the shop with all the samples displaying the leaves and water color. We look at the milk and fruit bread from the small store with plenty of empty shelf space, and the woven pottery near the café. I want to buy lots of things but don’t want to carry them back on the plane, or spend that kind of money – though at first it seems like a lot, I have to remember to divide by three.

a fountain in Marina Mall

a fountain in Marina Mall

We go to the fruit and veggie market by the port, where I got my free apple hours ago, and visit the date section. We each grab a different color (level of ripeness) and we all prefer the more dried ones. The man inside offers us different stuffings, one with a hair stuck in it, and some fig. Yes I pulled the hair out, threw it away, and ate the date – when in Abu Dhabi. I buy a small sample box even though the bulk are better – more freshly prepared.

Marina Mall decor

Marina Mall decor

The driver drops the other two off at the tent in front of the boat and gives us a ride to Le Meridien hotel. I tip him 10 dirham for saving us from a taxi, and then we walk in at 4:50. I give the clerk my confirmation sheet and then he asks for passport and ID from Caleb that produces his military ID. I guess it doesn’t have the info the guy needs so he just makes a copy of it. We are upgraded to room 529. We’re asked if there is a special occasion, but can’t decide on a good time to deliver the birthday cake (that they would probably charge outrageously for) because we don’t plan on being in the room – even if it does come with a mini bar, bathrobe, foot bidet, and recycling bin.

World Trade Center Souk

World Trade Center Souk

We go across the lobby to the concierge to check on tours of the Falcon Hospital and Mangroves National Park. He calls both places for us and we are set up for a kayak tour of the mangroves tomorrow morning at 7am, and then I will see the falcons on Thursday morning at 10am. I write until Kathrine picks us up at 6pm. She takes us to Kuya Juan, a Filipino restaurant near PJ O’Reilly’s, for dinner. She orders fried pork, shrimp soup (full shrimp – eyes and poo included), and rice. I ordered the milk tea with boba and expected big balls with my fat straw but got tiny ones with gel fruit chunks too.

section of camel bone carving

section of camel bone carving

I had no problem with the pork, even after imagining its bloody corpse in the meat market this morning, but was debating eating the shrimp. Kathrine put two in a bowl with plenty of broth and veggies. I switched with Caleb hoping to get more okra than crustacean, but we were both in for an experience. I saw Kathrine tearing up the shrimp on her plate and decided to do the same. She ate with a fork and spoon easily. Caleb and I struggled, but managed to enjoy the meal with plenty of rice and soy sauce.

the date market

the date market

We were in no hurry and the meal was down to a meat-covered bone and a plate of rice. I told Caleb to take a picture of me holding it and Kathrine let me know that’s the best part – the eating, not the sharing of images. I made sure no one else wanted some before digging in. Then we split dessert of fried banana in phyllo dough with ice cream drizzled in chocolate. We left there around 8:30pm, and on our way out the door I noticed the tray of cutleries for pork separated from the rest. Kathrine dropped us back at the room. We explore the hotel, walking to see the lights reflect off the water, and then into the gym, pool, spa access area.

the view from room 529 in Le Meridien

the view from room 529 in Le Meridien

I was under the impression that these amenities were free, but the lady at the desk told us they were closed even though we saw guys playing ping-pong and wanted us to pay. I didn’t feel like arguing, but wasn’t ready to go back to the room yet either, so we walked over the highway crosswalk to the shopping centre, and then did rounds of two floors in the Abu Dhabi Mall on the other side of the street. We stopped in at La Cure Gourmande and tried some cookies and olive chocolate before buying some of both.

view across the water from Le Meridien

view across the water from Le Meridien

Caleb is getting tired and remembers that he has to check in with the boat. We head back to the room at 10pm. Caleb is getting ready for bed and presents me with a tub of Moringa Body Butter that he bought for me the day they pulled in. It smells like a delicious morning. Time for me to be done writing so I can brush my teeth, get lotioned up and go to sleep. We have another long day tomorrow.

late night shopping at Abu Dhabi Mall

late night shopping at Abu Dhabi Mall

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Amazing Day in Abu Dhabi

sunrise over Floating City

sunrise over Floating City

I woke an hour before my alarm went off. I walked the dogs to the beach when everyone else is up doing the same thing before the sun bakes the bricks. I double-checked everything, washed my dishes from last night, and made a strawberry-banana protein shake for breakfast. I’d like to thank all the people keeping in touch with me and wishing me well on this trip. I’m excited to be flying to another country on my own.

one happy traveler via Etihad Airways

one happy traveler via Etihad Airways

Dad didn’t think I was supposed to leave until tomorrow and Caleb thought I was an hour behind. I put the airport address in my phone and followed it even though I thought I should go to the south side of the airport and this seemed to take me north. I followed it to the end of the route – planes in sight, but directly in front of a police station. I was going to simply make a u-turn, but the officer came out of the shack so I turned wide and rolled my window down.

view from the taxi driving towards the Corniche

view from the taxi driving towards the Corniche

I asked how to get to airport (hand flying symbol) and he made sure he understood me and that I understood the directions he gave me. Continue down this road, go through two lights, and turn left at the third. Then you will arrive at a (made a circling motion) “roundabout”, yes, and continue through that. You are at the airport. I continued towards Busaiteen and remained calm knowing I had given myself time to get lost.

a passing view

a passing view

I was so thrilled when I saw the sign for passenger terminal. I u-turned to try to get in lot B or C, not that much closer really, but they were full. I pulled in to lot D, parked, walked inside the building with washroom and pay station, and a man came in and told me the bus was coming. I opened the door and there it was. Good thing I stepped out when I did too or he would’ve u-turned in front of me and I would’ve had to wait another ten minutes.

walking along the Corniche

walking along the Corniche

We stopped by the B and C lot and I was amazed at the precision of his driving, coming within an inch of all the guard poles to turn the ten seater around. He dropped me off in front of the airport and I made my way inside with a smile wearing my red hat. The sign pointed left to check-in, but that was for first class, so I went back right. Then walked by the security guy into the large area with all the check-in gates and baggage check.

selfies on the beach

beach selfie

I walked past the line for Etihad Airways and when I asked where it was the guy spoke and pointed behind me. I approached the woman at the counter and she told me they open in five minutes. I waited. She called me up. I handed her the confirmation I printed out along with my tourist passport. She asked if I was going to Abu Dhabi only and if I had any bags to check – yes and no. “Gate 16A. Have a good trip.” I proceeded to the passport check area. I had to check-in with a guard before approaching the guy at the computer. He asked for a military ID and I handed him the official passport that he stamped with today’s date.

country pride on the skyline from the beach

country pride on the skyline from the beach

Then I got in the security line, threw my bag on the belt with my glasses and phone, and stepped through the x-ray. The guard on the other side asked me to lift my hat and then waved me through. I looked for Gate 16 and found it between 15 and 16C. I would’ve stopped there, but I had to use the washroom which is down by Gate 17, after I took a picture of the wooden art on the wall. There are two stalls with a janitor sitting on the sink basin with a face mask on.

I miss you

I miss you

On my way back to my gate I see a sign for Gate 16A. I make my way downstairs, also towards the prayer room, and have to check-in again. The woman tells me this flight leaves for Qatar and I can wait upstairs until my flight is called. I’m making my way back up the stairs when I’m stopped by a man wondering where I’m from. When he hears I come from so far away he asks if I’m on vacation. I tell him I’m living in Bahrain, but going to Abu Dhabi on vacation. He tells me I’m very attractive and that my husband is a lucky man.

very large fountain

very large fountain

I thank him and we split ways – him down the stairs and me up to sit in the chairs across from the door. There are four coffee shops – Caribou, Costa, Starbucks, and Gloria – just in this hallway with a Chili’s that’s already open. I love the service hours here. I saw a mother of five boys walk by. The youngest fell and I heard his head hit the floor. His older brother picked him up and consoled him. The second oldest didn’t want to go any further and after being scolded by mom the oldest brother grabbed him by the wrist and escorted him along. I’ve heard of kids helping, but I’ve never seen it so well in action. The airport is a great place to people watch, but isn’t that always the case.

Nation Tower, ADNOC Bldg., Emirates Palace, Presidential Palace (under construction)

Nation Tower, ADNOC Bldg. (UC), Emirates Palace, Presidential Palace (under construction)

I should’ve hit the record button. It was great to watch the crowds walk by. Most were modest and then a lady walked by wearing her man’s shirt. They just happened to be on the same flight as me. I noticed the water cooler by the door to downstairs – and a guy adding hot water to his cup to get rid of the icy touch. I filled my bottle, went to the washroom again, and then went downstairs to wait until 9:30 when they decided to tear our boarding passes in half and let us wait another 15 minutes. We were due to depart at 9:45, but I was in no hurry.

inside Etihad Towers

inside Etihad Towers

They made last call over the speaker and even announced we were ready for take off before the doors opened and all 20 passengers were loaded on the bus for the short ride to the next terminal where the stairs would take us to the cabin of the plane. I had expected a 20-seater plane, but they had just delivered 200 people and this was all that was going back so we got to sit anywhere we wanted (had I only thought of upgrading). I chose 19A, about five seats back in economy, so I could be by the window and everyone got their own row.

Emirates Palace, Marina Mall, Heritage Village

Emirates Palace, Marina Mall, Heritage Village

The steward offered to take my picture in the empty two-thirds of the plane to make it look like I had it all to myself. At that moment I did as he told the stewardesses to get out of the picture. Back at my seat I noticed the thick stack of magazines and added them to the seat beside me. I wasn’t expecting a snack so I was delighted when the juice, tea, muffin, and yogurt made their way onto my tray table. I switched sides of the plane on descent but missed an overhead shot of Ferrari World. Abu Dhabi is beautiful and very spread out between chunks of sand and green lined roads.

the main entrance

the main entrance to Emirates Palace

As we are debarking the stewards change the exit door on us and I’m the first to leave through that door. I have no problem finding the passport station. I wait in line under Other Nationals, GCC (Gulf Coast Countries) and UAE being the other choices. I’m asked where I’m coming from and given a 30 day visa. My bag goes through another x-ray, but they aren’t concerned with my hat or phone. From there, I follow the signs to the exit until I see a sign for taxi with a line inside. The guy says, “Miss, second one to the left.”

fountains at Emirates Palace

fountains at Emirates Palace

I try to get half in, but the first seat is in the middle. I ask how much to get me to Corniche and the driver says under 90 dirham. That will work. Online it said to plan on spending 80. It was so neat. I had to remember to put my seatbelt on, but leaned so far forward. His meter kept telling him to slow down as he was going over the speed limit. I didn’t mind as I wanted to be out seeing things, not stuck in the backseat of a cab. I recognised the Grand Mosque as we passed it in the distance.

steps to Emirates Palace

steps to Emirates Palace

We reached the beach but had to find parking. I wanted him to u-turn at the light and get me closer to the water, but had him turn at the intersection and park at a bus stop. The total was 82.25 and I told him I didn’t want coins back as I handed him a 100 dirham bill, after asking if he had change. He handed me 15 back and was hesitant, trying to sneak in a tip, but I was going to give one anyways. I smiled and he wished me well on my visit.

view of Etihad Towers from the Emirates Palace steps

view of Etihad Towers from the Emirates Palace steps

I walked down to the fence and then remembered there is a family area and other private beaches. I continued on until I found the public beach and made my way to the water, ignoring the sand that was getting in my sandals and burning my toes. The sand changes from white with black specks (burning) to white with pink specks (spectacular). I took my shoes off, lifted my skirt, and played in the water until I saw a jellyfish. It might’ve been dead, but I wasn’t taking chances. I tried to make it back across the sand so my feet could dry, but I wasn’t chancing blisters either.

Sir Blasius looking good in the uniform at Emirates Palace

Sir Blasius looking good in the uniform at Emirates Palace

I continued walking and almost decided to turn towards the tall buildings, but found refuge in grass and shade, drank some water, and continued on until I saw the sign for Etihad Towers. Inside I admired the Lobby Bar in Tower 2, before paying the 75 dirham to take the elevator to the 74th floor for the view and to redeem 50 of that back in food and beverage. I ordered the Red Velvet drink – peach and strawberry with lemon juice and fruit chunks for 29 dirham and four scones (2 chocolate and 2 plain) with strawberry and cream cheese butter at 5 dirham a piece after seeing them while making my round.

Emirates Palace lobby

Emirates Palace lobby

I eat them while enjoying the view and talking to the couple next to me. I asked if my bill was good and was stopped at the elevator door because it wasn’t. I had to pay six dirham in taxes. I try finding my way across the street to Emirates Palace. A construction worker points towards the parking lot and then the light. The sidewalk I was looking at ends. I walk up to the big sign of what not-to-dos and turn around towards the two guards. I’m given a thumbs up and walk in the large gate.

wall decor in Emirates Palace

wall decor in Emirates Palace

There is a sidewalk that winds between the entry and exit roads. There are trees, and a breeze, and a large flag that stops blowing when I look at it. There is a large fountain area in front of the large staircase. There are two girls posing for each other on the steps and I turn around to enjoy the view of the city from this angle. I cross the drop-off road/valet area and admire the uniforms, one waist length and one knee length – but that bellhop wouldn’t let me take his picture.

elaborate staircase in Emirates Palace

elaborate staircase in Emirates Palace

This is supposed to be a seven-star hotel and has been recognised as a 5-star with the plaque outside. You have to pay attention to the details in the walls, ceilings, and floors, and the amenities included in the cost of the room. The doors are tall, the carpets thick, the decorations shiny, the foyer outstanding. There is an ATM that dispenses gold and the white sand beach was imported. There is a beach club on both sides, but what got my attention most, without being a guest, was the live band.

one tonne handmade carpet

one tonne handmade carpet of Emirates Palace

I could hear the music start and quickly made my way to the café area where the piano started, the cello joined, and the flute finished the trio. Past that I admire the details in the staircases, the tapestry on the wall, the art for sale in display cases, the lighting, the shops in the corridor, and the food on offer. Back outside I smell the flowers and watch the gardeners test the fountain in front of the royal entrance.

hallway to the East Wing in Emirates Palace

hallway to the East Wing in Emirates Palace

I text Kathrine when I leave there as to whether I should go to the Marina or City Centre. This guy passes me, honks, and offers a ride. I keep on walking. I decide to use one of the many pedestrian highway underpasses to get me closer to the buildings and farther from the beach. It’s hard to think the city could be considered anything less than five-star when a simple walkway is lined with tiles forming desert scenes. Oil has brought money to this emirate and they don’t mind seeing it shown everywhere.

underpass tile art

underpass mosaic

The guy that honked earlier turned around and parked at a taxi/bus stop. I accept on the way downtown. He wants to know why I like to walk so much when the women from his country want to be dropped off at the air-conditioned door. I don’t have to cover my body in a black robe. He drops me off three blocks later. I was hoping to get further, but this way I can still explore more of the city. He gives me his number and wants to kiss me. I thank him for the ride and get out.

street sign

street sign

I ask a taxi driver what street I’m on and he tells me Third. When I get to the intersection the sign says differently. How am I supposed to tell Kathrine where I’m at with him giving me the wrong directions and the other guy dropping me off at some unknown building near Pearl Plaza Tower. She says she can pick me up in a couple of hours. Well, I’m not going to wait at this park until then. I walk on.

swing selfie

swing selfie

I come to one of the many family parks in the city – greenery, fountains, swings – and sit on one beside a brother and sister with the boy calling for mom as she talks with her friends on the other side of the playscape and a man pushing his boy on the swing. It felt nice to be off my feet and have a breeze cool off my sweaty bits. Leaving the park I’m followed by a yellow kitty. I wouldn’t have minded so much, but he wanted to rub up on the front of my legs either causing me to kick him gently or almost fall on my face.

more city skyline

more city skyline

I find Qasr Al Hosn and get to see the museum for free, though the actual fort is only open for ten days out of the year for the festival. Inside are exhibits showing the history of this building that link directly to the stories of the city and surrounding area. Many rulers called this place home and it was used for other governmental purposes – meetings, as a watchtower, and a protective fort from land and sea advances. It shows the way the fort grew and how it went from being surrounded by sand to being hidden among tall buildings, bright lights, and construction sites. The other main exhibit is, “Lest We Forget.” A project taken on by Michele Bambling to collect family photos from 1950 – 99 to remember where Abu Dhabi got its start.

Lest We Forget polaroids in Qasr Al Hosn museum

Lest We Forget polaroids in Qasr Al Hosn museum

The pictures are set on coffee tables and inside desk drawers so you can recall what it’s like to go through your family history and uncover these gems. A sign on the wall says to read the stories written on the back and I would share with you how one touched my heart if I was able to read any Arabic. I thank the staff on my way out and make it to the corner light before Kathrine texts me. I tell her I will be at Qasr Al Hosn. While waiting at the bus stop near the entrance a guy walks by and offers me some of his Haldirams Namkeen-similar snack and keeps on walking.

Qasr Al Hosn timeline room

Qasr Al Hosn timeline room

Kathrine picks me up at 6pm, so we can go to PJ O’Reilly’s by 7pm. She is vibrant and friendly. We park in front of a hotel and walk down an alley just far enough to keep it hidden from the tourist eye. Inside we meet with seven other coushsurfers – all guys and Firas invites us to his boat tomorrow and Kathrine invites me to eat fried pork. Kathrine shows me her ‘liquor’ license that gives her the right to purchase booze based on her income for at home consumption. We have three Heineken and plenty of popcorn before calling it a night. There was a live band, Sweet Chilli Jam, and happy hour, all night on Mondays, is 21 dirham per beer. 

Sweet Chilli Jam on stage

Sweet Chilli Jam on stage at PJ O’Reilly’s

Kathrine’s house is awesome – living room furniture, Cannondale bike by the door, running numbers framed on the wall, and a view of the city. And I have my own room with washroom. I set the alarm early so I can shower and be ready to go in the morning. She’s going to drop me off at Mina Zayed Port so I can meet up with Caleb for the City Tour. I had an amazing time and look forward to traveling with these people and coming back just to hang out with them. It’s only 10:15, feels early, but I know my feet could use the break. I feel that I will have blisters and sunburns to deal with tomorrow.

the view from the 'couch'

the view from the ‘couch’

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Irritating VS Invigorating

Sparky enjoying the shade in the afternoon

Sparky enjoying the shade in the afternoon

Caleb slept in this morning. I took him to work, had Cheerios, and made overnight oatmeal before having another bowl with pear pieces, while doing some trip planning for Abu Dhabi trying to minimise taxi usage. I read about Ganesh Chaturthi, the Dragster Xperience at Bahrain International Circuit, and Bo Stern’s opinion on the Ice Bucket Challenge to raise awareness for Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis aka Lou Gehrig’s Disease.

I took a nap from 2:30 to 4pm, after eating leftover coconut curry for lunch. This gave me the energy needed to rinse the chunks of desert off the windshield, only making the rest of the car look worse, so I splashed some water on it for that dripping dirt look, then watered the two plants – one providing shade and the other dying on the ground.

Took the dogs out and was feeling motivated to work out. I went upstairs, grabbed my exercise clothes, and then remembered that the power upstairs wasn’t working yesterday. I plugged in the treadmill and still no juice, so I will have to wait for Kamal for that, but I don’t have to wait on him to ride my bike around Amwaj Islands – twice in 30 minutes.

When the sand is blowing in my face it’s irritating, but when the wind is cooling me off it’s invigorating. With just my bike it was hard to tell time, but I found two people who had their phones when I finished a lap. I brought my lights with me, but the front one is loose and the street lights bright enough and traffic light enough that it wasn’t an issue.

Sparky feeling like people while Caleb is gone

Sparky feeling like people while Caleb is gone

I got honked at once or twice, and not for lane obstruction. I had another car drive slowly behind me for a block before passing safely. The lanes here are wide enough to give me 2 to 3 feet of space. Some go out of their way to go around, like I do sometimes, but others are more likely to stay in the lane – and I’m fine with that. I don’t want them trying to pass and getting in a head-on collision next to me.

Back home at 7:30 and I debate jumping in the canal, but the water is still warm. Upstairs for a cold shower that feels amazing. Today was slack, but tomorrow I will be busy with laundry and scrubbing porcelain and marble.

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A Drunken Stupor

I got to have a late breakfast with Coral and Preston. The place was packed and they had special menu items, like fruit salad and home-fries. I went to Lulu’s to buy baby socks and rubber bands so I can walk the dogs on the bricks in the heat of the day.  I got a small hazelnut gelato, after the guard got the lady’s attention, as she was standing behind a column eating chips. This would be my first time eating and driving in Bahrain. 

I had passed the first sentry to drive on base and was waiting to show my credentials to the second when the security bars came down and we had to wait for a blacked-out SUV to come in the exit and disappear through a special gate. I was told that it was our people — the men in black. I went to the bank to get our first rent check for $2,769.95. 

Two people had to handle the transaction because it’s over $2,500. I waited, showed my two forms of ID, and then went upstairs to the cash exchange and got a check for BD 1041 made out to Mr. Husain. I waited 30 minutes for Caleb to get off work just to have him tell me to go home because the boss wouldn’t let him leave. An hour later he’s ready. We went to Lulu’s to exchange one of the ‘pairs’ of socks I bought as it only came with one sock. The process was easier than I thought, but I had picked the only one with ladybugs on them and settled for matching yellow panda socks for both pups. 

I thought we’d go by the new place so Caleb could get a look at it before we move in, but we went to Señor Pacos where some of the guys were going too. We order the spicy salsa and then OG, Douglas, and CK show up and order two pitchers of margaritas; CK orders another pitcher and then another. There’s a couple – one on the guitar and the other on the microphone singing karaoke. 

The guys had arrived by taxi and had planned on pouring themselves back into one. We found our way through the souq and then Douglas took the wheel to reverse us out when I got us stuck in a dead-end. A couple of local guys noticed our predicament and told us to follow them and then followed us when we got lost again until we found the Grand Mosque.

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A Day Out With the Girls

I got woken up at 5:43 to take Caleb to work and came back to the room to sleep from 7 – 8:30am. I went to breakfast, where I met Coral and her four-month-old son. Met with Eloise and Carole after and we went to Starbucks on American Alley. We met Kyle and his wife India with their one-year-old daughter Sparrow, and Keri Pate with two kids – a young girl running around, Addison, and a two-month-old boy, Eddie Jr.

Eloise drove us to Coco’s and we talked for a while waiting on the check. We got back to the room and I went to the Joz Salon on the second floor for a haircut by Naroshi from Sri Lanka. She gave me some beautiful layers and a blow dry for BD 8 in 30 minutes.

I somehow managed to drive through the souq and parked in front of the British Council and waited ten minutes for Priya’s husband to drop her off so we could drive around and find dinner; she likes getting lost with me. She suggested Lanterns – an Indian buffet that serves pani puri — in Budhiya because it’s cheaper than the one in Adliya. 

I had already managed to drive us closer to the museum, but we turned around, passed the restaurant, U-turned and then made another U-turn to find it under the new name Wholesales. We had the buffet to ourselves and before we ate Priya gifted me with a small bag and some bindi. Their purpose is to enhance the powers of one accessing their inner wisdom, to interpret things in a truthful, unbiased manner and forsake their ego.

We didn’t find our way to the National Museum until 7:45pm. We walked to the main entrance and the guard asked the room full of guards for directions — go down the road and back… the marina club. We met a couple in the parking lot that pointed to the glass building; that’s what I thought but it didn’t look busy. We decided to walk over anyway and the man there told us the place was closed and the show was canceled. That bummed us out but we weren’t ready to go home yet so we headed to Bin Khalifa Park. 

We missed the turn, U-turned by the base, then U-turned again and were able to find parking directly across from the observation tower with Koffiatto Coffee & Tea House at the top, near the art camels. We went left towards the water and fishing area, then did a lap by the fountains, workout equipment, picnics, bike riding, paddle boating, etc. We started to do another lap so we could try some of the equipment and were waiting on these two guys to finish.

When I sat down I thought the guy offered to take a picture of me with my phone, but he wanted one with me from his buddy’s phone, so Priya took a photo of that and then asked that they take one of her with me – it’s not that great, but we have the memory. We sat on the wall near the water for a bit and the car next to mine was smoking hashish and was letting the smoke out when we walked up.

We had no problem getting to the house around 9:30 and she invited me in. I took my shoes off inside. There is a pile of flip-flops on both sides of the door. She brings out a dress for me to try on and says if it fits I can keep it. She has two large pictures of her daughter, Lolly, on the wall. Her daughter’s name starts with a V but is difficult to pronounce, hence the nickname.

Priya noticed it was 10pm and asked if I was tired yet as I was still so full of energy. I could’ve stayed for another hour or two but I excused myself letting her know I had to get home to walk the dogs. She and her husband walked me to the car and said goodnight. I had no problem navigating back to the hotel.

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