Please Stay Awhile

I grab a banana from the fruit basket. I skip the dive skin today and pull my wetsuit on over my Sharkskin that will keep me warmer, even if the sleeves bunch up. The divers’ gear is set close to each other, so it would’ve made more sense to have buddies sit every other tank so we could get ready together. It’s nice not to feel rushed, though, knowing we have just as much time at this site as everyone else regardless of when we get in the water, so I get out of the way. It takes me ten minutes to descend at Coral Kingdom, which I know isn’t a good sign, but I take my time knowing I could turn back if it becomes medically necessary.

I average 28ft for over an hour and see pickhandle barracuda, a school of humphead parrotfish, and one or two whitetip reef sharks. Caleb finds a banana nudibranch and a blackspotted puffer. It’s a great dive, one that made me unaware of how much snot was accumulating in my mask. I could’ve cleared it underwater, and I should have, but the crew offered the outdoor shower to wash my face and rid my nose of more before I climbed the steps to put my tank in its spot and initial the log sheet documenting my return. Breakfast is served, and after, Helen gives a presentation on the reef: history, preservation, and then gets me a glass of water.

I’m still coughing, so I excuse myself to grab a cough drop before returning to learn more about the flora and fauna that thrive here when the temperature is right, the water is clean, and they’re not over-fished or over-harvested. Helen tells us about a photo competition that will include three categories: compact (TG-7 and GoPro), DSLR (Nikon and Canon), and fun (a pale-spotted combtooth blenny and one yellowfin surgeonfish attempting to blend in with a group of blackfin barracuda). Our second dive is at Lighthouse Bommie. The boat provides everyone with an SMB (safety sausage) if they didn’t bring their own and a Nautilus marine rescue GPS (just in case the small boat hasn’t reached you in 15 minutes).

I’m able to descend more easily and stay around 30ft for 45 minutes watching saddleback clownfish, bluestreak cleaner wrasse, a coral grouper, butterflyfish, unicorn fish, and fusiliers (the fish, not the British infantry) until Caleb gets cold too. I see a shark during our safety stop, which is required beyond 30 to 33ft, since I went down to 43ft. Caleb agrees it’s best to conserve our energy this afternoon so that we can do the night dive. I’m just glad to have the energy to even consider it. I’m reading Into the Abyss by Carol Shaben when Amy comments about how she enjoys me laughing out loud. Simon asks what book it is, and I leave the room with the title as the description would place my humor out of context.

Lunch, for me, is mostly fruit, some salad, and a piece of barramundi (also known as Asian sea bass) that I pass onto Caleb after trying. I don’t finish my plate, which is unlike me on this boat as all the food is freshly prepared each day. Becky is accompanying her husband, but not diving, and spends the day cross-stitching. We overhear her ask Maria, the host, if she will be staying the length of the trip with us. She could take a small boat to Lizard Island and make her escape that way, but Maria let Becky know that she will be staying with us until we return to Cairns.

Amy shares her Snickers Pods, an Australian snack that is a specialty import to the US even though they’re headquartered in Virginia and expanding in Chicago. There are a ton of fish as Caleb and I enter the water at Challenger Bay and watch the sea turn to darkness before we are soon joined by other flashlights spotting starfish, sharks, and puffers. I reach 29ft three times as we navigate the ocean, feeling like a predator (anglerfish) and a prey (human) at the same time. The most common problems at night are running out of air, both flashlights dying, and getting trapped somewhere. This is why some dive companies use shallow areas to reduce fatality percentages.

We were down for 49 minutes, and I debated sharing part of Caleb’s video as he returned to the boat, but it almost made me seasick. It doesn’t get better onboard either, as I’m not sure he realized it was still recording. It’s probably for the best, as I cursed for the sake of my little fish friend when Caleb said I highlighted him for another fish to snack on. No fish were harmed while filming, but I also wouldn’t interrupt if they had been eaten. The wind is still blowing, so I’m quick to take off my wetsuit and get inside. Sometimes I help Caleb, but mostly that just means I’m in the way.

The crew asks that you remove your regulator so that they know to refill your tank. I’m unable to do so, whether from being sick or having wet hands. There’s a convenient bucket for each diver under the bench where I can toss boots, gloves, fins, and mask. Wetsuits get hung up on pipe pieces with metal D-rings. The cameras get their own dunk tank to get the salt off, and my computer will get washed in the shower. Dinner is Italian-style and dessert a white chocolate panacotta with ice cream. I’m in bed by 915 and stay up to finish one of the few books I have downloaded.

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Beneath the Weight of Dawn

I wake up feeling like a kid on Christmas who just got gifted half a Barbie. It is partially what I asked for, but now I have to deal with managing the missing parts. Kerrin said he would come through the halls and wake us with a jingle of his creating, but Caleb prefers to be up hours before that, so I figured with half an hour to go, I would just get up so I could take some medicine and combat the feeling of exhaustion that has taken over. I appreciate the sunrise on the way to the dining room where others are gathered with hot teas, coffees, and notebooks.

Kerrin gives us the plan of the day and lets us know when the first dive brief will start. There is one given for each dive site so that divers know the temperature, current conditions, visibility, map of the area, and a general idea of what they might see, etc. Another important purpose for these exchanges of information is making sure that everyone has a dive buddy (unless they are Emma J., “VIP client,” or Helen, “video pro”), as groups can change throughout the day. By one person not listening to instructions, she misleads some of the other guests to start in on the crew’s breakfast instead of waiting for the bell that announces we can sit at the tables or line up for the buffet.

Starting at 6am, the crew is kept busy until 10pm. This morning they help with breakfast, filling tanks, and mooring the catamaran. Every diver should always do a buddy check for air and weights, etc., but the crew here also put eyes and hands on during their checks to minimize mishaps. Our first stop is Goggle Gardens, and we are on a flag system (green = good, yellow = slight current, and red = also slight current). If you plan on being down longer than an hour, just let the crew know, as they keep track of entry/exit times, bottom time, and max depth for every dive. There is a member on the sun deck to keep an eye on the site in case someone might need retrieval via the dinghy.

I put on my 5mm wetsuit thinking that would be enough for the 77-79°F water. Caleb told me to dive with 16 pounds, and I only took 12, so I struggled to go below six feet as the current carried me away from the site and the boat. This brings me to the biggest state of panic in my diving memory. Never have I wanted to take my regulator (breathing hose) out so badly, but I did and swallowed the ocean as it swelled into my face. I put my back to the boat to combat this, and when I turned around, someone had a pole out that I could grab. I held onto the boat while they grabbed me two more pounds and some defog for my mask.

Luckily, Caleb had been motioned to return to the boat to wait on his dive buddy and grabbed me an extra weight that I would pocket on our descent. My average depth is 20 feet, and I come up after 56 minutes. There is so much colorful coral, and I get to see a ray flying by. The second dive at Two Towers feels colder after climbing back into my wet gear, so we can keep the boat interior as dry as reasonable. I go down to 67ft before staying around 31ft for almost another hour. We’re both tired, and lunch just intensifies that feeling for me, so I spend two hours in bed, miss the afternoon dives, and feel no different.

We saw a pod of about ten dolphins during lunch. The night dive starts at sunset (roughly 610pm), and though the water may be the same temperature, the wind blowing on wet gear just isn’t enticing. I’m bummed that we’re not going on all the dives and snorkeling in between like I told some of the people when I was still at 95%, but I also don’t want to wear myself out and miss a day of diving, so we must pace ourselves. Caleb is fine missing the night dive too, so we shower and have dinner at 8, which gives others a chance to get cleaned up for Asian night with a glass of wine and churros with ice cream. Divers can eat just as much as thru-hikers, and though I’m ready for bed, I stay up to let my food settle.

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Car, Plane, Feet, Boat

We’re up at 4am, leave the keys in the dropbox, and Caleb puts the luggage outside to wait in the chilly air before we join our bags and load them into the back of a Toyota Alphard (a luxury multi-purpose vehicle or high-end people mover since 2002). We were seated in luxury thanks to the Didi App, which is cheaper than Uber and charges a lower driver commission. The van was privately imported and comes with nanoe X climate control technology.

The airport is under construction, and we go left to get into the bag-drop lane, but are directed to the kiosks on the right; then we can return to drop off our heavy cargo and go through security in what seems like a stress-free ten minutes. (conspiracy theory idea omitted). The airside (past security vs the landside) appears to be a city sidewalk as business people get their breakfasts (from the many café options), take a seat at the ample tables, and then wait patiently on hold, for the loo, or to board the plane. It’s nice to be impressed by more than the art or transfer time at an airport.

Even the bathroom comes with a nice view of the sky, and the runway has a pleasant view of Botany Bay. We get upgraded to an exit row since the flight is not full. I can taste the perfume and lotion that the other passengers have decided to nervously overapply. It’s at this point I realize my throat is starting to itch, but then I’m more concerned about how the brace position for a plane emergency was determined. It was engineered over decades through crash investigations, medical analysis, biomechanics research, and controlled impact testing to reduce head trauma and neck injury by 40%.

Cairns is home to the world’s oldest tropical Daintree Rainforest, estimated to be 135+ million years old, while the Amazon Rainforest is 80 million years younger. I knew there were a few reasons I wanted to spend at least a year in the country. There is a bamboo-framed bike that is displayed to expose visitors to the creativity of the Kuku Yalanji people and the IRONMAN Cairns that held its first race in 2012. Even more inspiring to me are the giant animal heads of Great Barrier Reef icons, with their mouths serving as the opening to the luggage carousel.

We get dropped off at Mike Ball Dive Expeditions’ office, where we check in, get our dive certifications verified, and store our hard-sided luggage. They will deliver our wet bag (full of dive gear) to the dive deck and our dry bag (full of diving accessories) to our room while we wander around and meet up again with them later. Lunch at Hemingway’s Brewery because it’s one of the closest two restaurants, this one located on the wharf. Their toilet is past the fermentation room, so they have cute signs on the floor letting customers know they’re getting closer to relief.

Caleb went to the Cairns Aquarium when he was here for work, so we walked the kilometer up Abbott St to spend a couple hours in the air-conditioned shade. The exhibits are built to follow a drop of rain from the mountains through the creeks, rivers, and swamps to the Coral Sea. They have the reef stone fish and olive sea snake, both lethal to humans, but not likely to bite unless provoked. There are plenty of lionfish, but this is their natural habitat. Instead, the crown-of-thorns starfish is the problem on the reef when they multiply too quickly and devastate the hard coral polyps. Culling them is done with multiple vinegar injections to reduce the starfish from just dropping the bad arm.

I take some meds on the way back to the wharf, where no one is at the meeting spot yet, so we sit there a while and then move back inside Hemingway’s to wait for 530pm. The 25 of us are escorted by three of the ten crew members, with two volunteers on board, to the boat. Hand sanitizer is offered before the ramp, a nametag is given on deck that has your cabin number on it, and a photo is taken as soon as you step inside so that all of us can put names to faces. They ask that guests check that their bags made it to their room and then come up to the galley for introductions and a safety briefing that takes two hours.

After that, all guests sit with Kerrin, the trip director, to go over the dive forms that we filled out and checked in the office. He is thorough with forms, safety, communication, etc which is helpful when managing strangers in a risk-filled environment. I found the chef, June, and let her know that Caleb doesn’t like curry. I wasn’t concerned because of the many options offered with each meal, but didn’t want there to be an issue later. We were released to set up gear and unpack. We met Emma S., and she loaned us an outlet plug since the USB (that we planned to use) in our room wasn’t working. There’s a charging station on the wet deck as well. Everyone is off to their beds in preparation for tomorrow.

Our room has bunk beds and a shared bath (toilet by cabin 1 and shower by cabin 2). The beds come with their own lights and curtains (so reminiscent of the military) so that you maintain some privacy and offer less disturbance to your cabin mate. The room comes with its own air unit set at 22°C, which we lowered to 17°C to keep the room and Caleb drier. There are spare towels, a hairdryer, and a few rolls of paper in the bottom drawer with space for our stuff above. There are life vests under the bed, and this is where we put our empty-ish bags.

There is a picture on the wall (ours is a turtle), a box of tissues, a welcome binder, and five hooks on the walls and door (that also has a mirror). All wet gear is asked to be dried outside. I climb up the two steps between the beds and dresser to claim the top bunk. I’m excited to finally be here, but not as thrilled as Caleb is to be on a boat again. The catamaran will travel through the night, so I read for a bit as I have room to sit in the corner comfortably before pretending to sleep every few hours. Whatever Caleb came down with, he has now successfully shared it with me.

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An Affogato Afternoon

I tried a Cadbury Cherry Ripe and was able to stay up until 830pm last night. I feel confident this will be sufficient for the liveaboard schedule. I’m up at 430am so I can get flu powder and ibuprofen for Caleb since he’s starting to feel worse and a slice of banana bread for me. He was up coughing and didn’t sleep well. We checked our dive insurance, which requires a doctor’s note, and he’s not ill enough for that, so he’s got two days to recover before our first dive. We fly from Sydney to Cairns in 26 hours.

I go downstairs for breakfast alone and bring him a sandwich or two (thinking we would have lunch in the room) and make him a cup of medicinal tea so he can go back to sleep. I look up directions to Beare Park and start my adventure with at least six flights of stairs going up the side of an apartment complex that incorporated the stone wall into the blueprints. There’s a little waterfall and pond between two sidewalks, some suitcases marked for trash pickup, and a car with the plate: WHEATS. Men are sunning in their Speedos, dogs are off-leash, and women are talking in the shade.

I watch two dogs, like a scene from 101 Dalmatians, as they get their owners to let them parallel play in the water. The beach here is blocked off in both directions, so I won’t be exploring that any further. Caleb lets me know that he ate our lunch. I find something to eat at The Bowls, their lemongrass chicken lunch special. I wouldn’t get it again, but I do finish it. Costing almost just as much for dessert will be the deluxe tiramisù affogato from Rivareno Gelato, and I smile at passersby vs offering to buy them one so they can know the joys of coffee and ice cream with a sweet dish included.

I take my time getting back to the room, read about the truth and reconciliation commissions in Canada and Australia, and shower. I pack our bags, leave the four 5-cent coins we found, and make Caleb another tea. I let it cool before I wake him. I look at things to do in Cairns tomorrow between landing at the airport and getting on the catamaran, which should be about six hours. Caleb is still coughing, in the same bed as me, as I prepare to dream about sea turtles, sharks, and stroopwafles.

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Breathe In the Park

I wake up at 530am with cramps, and Caleb is feeling competitive this morning, so he rises with a sickness. We won’t know that just yet, though. It presents with a sense of exhaustion, so it could just be jet lag and his common need for a nap since he doesn’t like sleeping much at night. I had a day of ferries and hiking planned, but toned it down to a round-trip ferry and bus ride to help with roadside walking. I’ll have breakfast the Australian way: coffee, Vegemite toast, grilled tomatoes, and a fried egg. The fresh, dainty-sliced watermelon is a nice touch.

I notice my breath in the park and wonder if it’s been as cold on prior visits or if I was focused elsewhere. The marble statue “Girl with Clogs and Musical Instrument” (a hurdy-gurdy) and the bronze Governor Arthur Phillip (unveiled on Queen Victoria’s 60th year of reign and over a century after his death) look great in the sun, especially with a laughing kookaburra perched upon his head. The bright pink Habanera series of English Daisy outshines the pale pink ruffled rose in a garden of buds. I appreciate this exploratory pace until I need the loo.

We stand a few minutes in a spaced-out line at Circular Quay, Wharf 3, waiting for the F1 ferry to deliver us to Manly, Wharf 1. There’s a faster catamaran that costs more and cuts travel time by a third, but we’re not in a hurry. The front is too windy for me, so I head to the back to get photos of the Opera House, Fort Denison, and the cliff faces (which over time lead to a head). The 161 bus leaves every half hour and drops us off at Fairfax Track at the southern end of Sydney Harbour National Park. From the Yiningma Lookout, we witness a whale exhale.

This pressurized air can shoot up to 30 feet in the air at speeds up to 450 km/h (depending on the species). Whales can also replace up to 90% of the air in their lungs in a single breath, whereas simple humans operate below 15%. Toothed whales have one blowhole and use echolocation, and baleen whales have two for faster air exchange. If I could have a superpower, it would be living as different animals for a week. The other couple on the loop comes to the park frequently to escape the city and to be impressed constantly by the sights as we are.

It’s possible we saw a humpback whale, which is one of the largest animals on Earth, weighing up to 40 tons. The largest land animal only weighs under 12 tons (10,400 kg). I can’t fathom that size, though I have stood next to an elephant. This moment is made even more special by the next animal I see: an inchworm that weighs only up to 1.4 grams. This is the awe I aspire to live in every day. Then we see an Australian brushturkey, with a bright yellow waddle used for mating, temperature regulation, and territorial disputes. Their tail is upright (for balance and speed), unlike the broad flat tails of domestic turkeys.

The masked plover has yellow face waddles and apparently spurs on the bend of their wings for defense. I will not be adding that altercation to my list of accomplishments. The plant life out here comes with interesting names: cinnabar polypore, pincushion flower, and heath-leaved banksia. We make our way to the North Fort Visitor Centre, where we learn that live firing to sea was stopped in 1984, the Memorial Walk opened in 2002, and volunteers have restored the Plotting Room (2019-20) and two battery observation posts 2022-23).

There are weekly tours of the tunnels that connected the 9.2″ calibre guns. They were capable of firing 380lb shells up to 16 miles at a rate of two rounds per minute. They were only used once in 1943 when a Polish vessel approached without clearance. The captain was billed £600 for wasted ammunition. We walk by the Hanging Swamp where two guys are taking photos and by the Barracks Precinct where a man is running laps on the parade grounds. We wait in the shade with a brushturkey for the bus that will return us to downtown Manly.

We take a peek at the beach before finding lunch at Fusion Point. We didn’t know what we were getting ourselves into as we sat on the patio. The pink lemonade seemed innocent enough, and then the tower of food arrived. Caleb got two burgers while I got a BLT (what I thought I ordered) with a chicken sandwich. The Club Deck also comes with guacamole, onion, carrot, beetroot, and aioli. I was glad I didn’t get the chips (fries), and though I ate what I could, there was still enough meat and crust to make a hipster breakfast.

Caleb says having lunch and dinner together will save his energy later, as he still feels just as exhausted as he did hours ago. The beach has stairs to sit on for those who want to watch the waves and listen to the birds without getting sand in their shoes before going back to work. That leaves us and some random kids rolling in the little pit they just dug. I count 14 people climbing the Sydney Harbour Bridge on our return ferry to Circular Quay. We walk back to the room, and I make a solo trip to the store. Caleb asked for lozenges, and I returned with sour squirms instead. I read for a bit before going back to the store so that Caleb can sleep without coughing as much.

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