
key developer in Dutch aviation, founder of Martinair, founder of KLM, president of Transavia ’79-’02
sculptures by Kees Verkade and bust by Servaas Maas in Schiphol Airport
I want to sleep on the flight into the Netherlands, but we’re too close to the toilets, so the lights keep strobing my eyes. It doesn’t help that the door isn’t easier to understand, either, as people push, pull, and pry at knobs and corners. I whisper to get their attention and then show a pushing motion with my hand for the middle of the door where the hinge runs down. Perhaps they were in a state of sleep that escaped me for hours while I tossed about. I’m woken to the sound of egg pockets and yogurt being distributed after three hours of taking advantage of the empty seat next to me.
My neighbor doesn’t want his yogurt, so I have that with coffee and connect with flight attendant Deborah over languages and travel. She’s looking forward to her day off in Amsterdam. While waiting in line for passport control, we talked with a kid from Ohio who made some international friends at track meet competitions and is coming to visit them for a month before his new job starts. It’s his first time out of the US, so he’s a bit nervous, but more excited to be old enough in Europe to drink in a bar. The agent scans our passports and sends us on our way without a stamp.

Gert was waiting in another area of the airport, where our first flight was supposed to arrive, so I suggested a toilet break before the excitement of a new country hit upon the exit doors. Caleb sees the questioning look on my face and replies, “I found a Dutchman!” to which there are a few happy responses from the other men within earshot who similarly identify as a Hollander. Gert was standing by our bags with a familiar smile and a hug. I thought we would be taking public transportation, but we got introduced to the highway instead.
Gert points out the NAP (Normaal Amsterdams Peil) at -3.8 meters below sea level. After a flood in 1675, measurements were taken daily during high tide for a year to calculate the minimum height of the sea dykes, set at 2.67 m above the AP. This system was carried over to other areas in the Netherlands, Belgium, and Germany. An error was introduced in the 1880s, and once corrected gained its new name. This fact is interesting on its own, but it will mean more as we learn how this country continually keeps itself from literally going underwater while maintaining cities and farms with flowing canals.

Your World by Lorenzo Quinn at AFAS Software
Caleb and I both weren’t expecting so much countryside (even after our experience in other European lands with sprawling pastures). We passed fields of cows, sheep, horses (koeien, schapen, paarden), two IKEAs, a 1934 Packard 1108 Derham Sport Sedan (roughly $200,000), and a building covered in ivy with the windows trimmed. Anouska brings us coffee and stroopwafels while we make ourselves comfortable in the garden and meet Zulu, the tuxedo cat that likes to lounge in flowers, on the back of the couch, on the stairs, and on the bricks out front (so he can be let in instead of using his own door).

We move to the shade for some Rivella (bubbly apple cola) that was created in 1952 and is made with 25% milk whey. Anouska is unsure if I’m messing with her when I say I’ve never had it. I thought it might be similar to Vimto, a British mixed fruit drink created in 1908, which I was introduced to in Bahrain over ten years ago. With a drink comes snacks, and we have the choice of three dips — cheese pesto, garlic aioli, and sundried tomato. We are brought up to our room, where we will sleep under a wall-sized hand rendering of Mount Everest by Anouska (inspired by their trip to base camp).

Other wall decor consists of her painting the world map, so that they can see where they’ve been and where they want to go, every night at the dinner table. The printed PCT map is close by. They have concrete walls, so some paintings are hung museum style, and other walls are covered in square photos of their sons (now grown) traveling with them to beaches and mountain tops, the large animals seen in jungles and on savannahs, and of them smiling in the snow or anywhere they are together. We put our shoes back on and put our borrowed slides in their place on the shelf for an afternoon walk.

I found out where we were staying in December, but instead of researching anything about the area, I looked all over the country, and even into Belgium, for things to see and do. I’m grateful for the surprise of how close they live to history, shops, restaurants, and the bus stop, but I was unaware of how far that meant everything else was. We pass by some green alkanet (with bright blue flowers), a soccer field, and a playground on our way to the Aschatterkeerkade, constructed in the late 17th century. When I read that the Dutch flooded them for defence, I thought of moats, but this system was used to flood the landscape for protection.

We see a Speckled Wood butterfly on a piece of rotting wood amongst the fallen brown leaves next to an old German bunker used during WWII. There will be a few along the dyke that is now used as a scenic walking path. We get to walk in the trenches lined with wood and fortified with sandbags made of concrete. We cross a road, and there is a toad tunnel to ensure the migrating amphibians safely find a partner in another ditch or pond in the spring. We pass by some female mallards, greater stitchwort (named as a remedy for a pain in the side), and Creeping Charlie (a purple perennial ivy).

I’m dressed in a long-sleeved shirt and capri tights when I see a cow’s breath and wonder if I’m underdressed. Caleb reminds me that the temperature is in the 60s °F on this beautiful day, and though windy (which is always the case in this flat country), the 1500-pound Holstein Friesian is full of more hot air due to her four stomachs than I am. It makes sense that tall people would have tall cows; this breed originates from a Dutch province and a German state. The Grebbe Line had ten basins that could be flooded individually, but froze during the French invasion of 1795, failing its defensive purposes.

Passing a neighborhood park is an information board that lets us know that the chiffchaff (lol) and the song thrush are the only birds (vogels) that can be seen and heard here, only in the summer. The other twenty-plus species are found all year round. There are some Clematis montana (pink flowers and buds) and Spanish bluebells to finish off our return to the house. Anouska has gone ahead of the three of us to prepare dinner: beef with prunes and apricots (a Moroccan dish), a salad with chicken and quinoa (Mediterranean-style), and sesame bread with garlic aioli (Chinese-American fusion).
We are plied with seconds, and though the taste pairings are unique and delicious, I took what I thought was the last of the bread… from that pan. Dessert is honey walnut yogurt with muesli (Greek and Swiss staples). Having been taken around the world physically and gastronomically, it was time to take turns choosing songs by artists from the Netherlands, Switzerland, South Africa, Germany, Scotland, and the US, to name a few. Then we got to watch the local news about people being nominated for the King’s Medal (aka Royal Honours), which go to some 4500 volunteers annually for their exceptional service to society via arts, science, and community service.











































