Caleb’s Tour of Bahrain

majlis (guest room)

majlis (guest room)

Caleb wanted to get out of the house today and I was surprised that he had an itinerary to accomplish such. I didn’t get up until 9:30, but breakfast didn’t slow us down and soon we were u-turning (one of the many Bahraini pastimes) to find parking near the Beit Al Qur’an which translates to the House of Qur’an – the history and versions of, not like the house of God full of people. No photos allowed or I would’ve taken plenty.

We walked in and there is a mosque to the left full of men and women coming off the elevator from their prayer area. We assure the man at the desk that we are only here to see the museum, not trample through a sacred area in what we’re wearing. I think the next room only consists of a few cases of old pottery, and I suppose to an extent I’m right, but Caleb is the one to notice that it leads to a large room full of books and art and ramps.

the kitchen, Al Jasra House

the kitchen, Al Jasra House

There is one other guy in there and cases full of different versions of the Qur’an from around the Islāmic world. It is neat seeing Allah’s words translated into German and Chinese. There is a circular Qur’an that would fit in the palm of my hand and an octagonal one with a matching case. I can only begin to appreciate the quality of workmanship that goes into making these and the need for protecting what Muslims believe in with a case of matching beauty.

Some of the books are hundreds of years old and I’ve held one before that was due its century celebration and know how fragile the pages can become. These books aren’t being read anymore and many of them come from other collections from people who found it worthy to preserve the past from enemies, weather, and time. Upstairs are larger versions that need stands to be held; scrolls that are thin and short but very long, and artistic tapestry meant to adorn the walls of the wealthy.

a room for sleeping

a room for sleeping

Speaking of… you’ve done well when the road to your house has pictures of you on light poles, and your personal roundabout is surrounded by lush greenery and armed guards. Caleb took a blurry photo of the Shaikh Isa Palace entrance as I quickly turned around. He meant for us to visit the house, one of the oldest in the area built around 1800, so that we could get an idea of the grandiose lives of royalty. Their palaces average the size of three to four Bahraini villages – which alone can cause conflict.

Next on Caleb’s list of sights to see is Al Jasra House, the famous birthplace of a former ruler that was restored in 1986 using the traditional materials of coral stone and palm-tree trunks. We park in the crushed-shell lot, walk past the building with the sign for toilets, take off our shoes, and step into a room with benches and vases, and are told by the two women sitting there that this is the only place photos aren’t allowed.

knock, knock

knock, knock

Outside we walk around the main house and have a look at the cat in the shade under a tree. I wish to join him. Inside the entry arch appears a man to collect the 500 fils each entry fee. Most of the rooms look the same – large carpets covering the floor; cushions lining the edges; and pictures, pots, and mirrors decorating the walls. The air conditioners in this old home might resemble the lifestyle of Bahrainis over 100 years ago, but if large couches replaced the floor cushions it could easily be mistaken for a current residence. 

I started getting hungry, so we drove to Tashan, near our next stop, and I ordered a falafel sandwich, a piece of round bread, and a bottle of water for take-away from Al Hantour Restaurant and was able to pay in fils (meaning lunch was $1.60). We walked to a bench in the shade where I sat and ate before we went around the corner to see the Al Khamis Mosque that is closed for remodelling. The entrance door is beautiful and it’s neat to walk around the neighborhood that I drive by to pick up and drop off Priya at home.

Al Khamis Mosque

Al Khamis Mosque

Not ready to go home, we drive to City Centre and choose Gloria Jean’s as our coffee spot. We pick a table in the back next to a mother teaching her son math and think about how nice it is to share moments like that with parents. I didn’t have the face time, but my dad used to call and give me long division problems over the phone. I’m grateful for my parents varying interest in my health and education – even when I don’t pursue it when given such an opportunity to do so.

Leaving Gloria’s we see three men in what seem to be Celtic togas with glitter bedazzled faces going down the escalator. Passing us is a 20-somethings semi-traditional Bahraini couple holding hands. I’m all about respecting religion and forgetting the advances of science and technology, but I’m more about friendship, romance, and equality; and being able to show those feelings with a public display of affection between men or women.

an entrance in a door

an entrance in a door

A crowd starts to gather downstairs as the lights on the modelling stage come on. Most of the seats will remain empty for the show as people are too distracted by the women in dresses revealing their shoulders and knees for the upcoming season’s fashion – cover your whole body during summer and then show off your limbs in the winter. Just another way Bahrain is setting itself apart and remaining unique.

We join other viewers on the second and then first floor before going home to plug in Caleb’s phone so that it would turn on. This way I can take pictures of the shopping list before we go to Lulu’s where we would spend two hours collecting potatoes, leeks, cream, cheese, risotto, cider, phyllo, etc. Before we leave for the store, we walk the dogs, and stop by Eloise’s to pick up a thank you treat for watching her house – two ‘brownies’ hand delivered from Brazil by one of her best friends. They’re a circular cake with a fudge sauce in the middle covered in milk chocolate with white chocolate drizzle.

fashion show at City Centre Mall

fashion show at City Centre Mall

We stopped at Alosra on the way home and I wandered around to Mr. Squash while Caleb looked for what we couldn’t find at the hypermarket. I will walk the dogs again while he starts to cook. I’m glad we got to spend the day together exploring more of Bahrain, even if that means that Julie and Mel had to go without me to the souq, but we chose to watch TV instead of going to the Diggers Rock Fest at 8:30pm. Caleb gets enough of people and rules at work so he can appreciate a quiet night in to enjoy my company while he cuddles with Piggy on the couch.

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Thai Tea Tiramisu

 

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Monday:

Woke at 11 am and drove to Vibe Media, a company that helps boost brands through photography and film, around 2:30 and had some rum with the co-founder Ali M. Then the co-founder Hassan and friend Ali Q. went with me to get my oil changed for 17 dinars ($46). We drove and walked around, then went to Honey’s Restaurant near Manama Souq for dinner. A snack of tea and falafel was had hours later on the street before watching a wedding procession of cars honking and lights flashing down Shebab Avenue.

 

Tuesday:

I was able to walk dogs, braid my hair, and drive to City Centre Mall by 11 am. Did some browsing before meeting with Reika, Lisa, and Lindy (their husbands work on the ship next to Caleb’s) for lunch at Vapiano (a German restaurant that serves Italian) where you use a charge card to create a tab for your meal and then pay the total when you’re done with drinks, sides, or dessert. The first two ladies went grocery shopping, Lindy went home to write emails, and I was off to bra shop – found three.

I drove to SkyBar (a rooftop venue with empty hot tubs, curtained booths, and a large pool) to join Lisa and Reika for a sunset that we missed, and then got wine to go with our grape-mint sheesha. At 7 pm they headed to Royal Thai restaurant in the Gulf Hotel and I walked around Adliya (a Bohemian neighborhood) and Bin Salman Park– outside the gate because they were closed.

 

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Wednesday:

Picked up Lorelei at 11 am for the wives’ group lunch at Le Chocolat, a French café and bakery. We were joined by Yanell and her son Lucas, Veronica, Erin and Christy, Reika, Nikki and her daughter Adliya, and Jess and her son Everett. I ordered a caprese sandwich on brown bread that came with fries, a salad, and a chai tea. Lorelei bought some cake and we went to the base so I could check mail. 

Her husband, Chris, called that he was off work, so I waited with her until he got there and then went home. I drove to Dome Cafe at 6:30 pm and ordered a large white mocha. I was joined by Mel and we went upstairs for the Bahrain Minglers Meetup and were quickly joined by two, three, then five more people. I met a French guy with a name hard to pronounce (hence the helpful bracelet he was wearing) and Mel’s girlfriends, Julie and Kate who loves to laugh. 

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Pottery and Paneer

inside A'ali Pottery

inside A’ali Pottery

I dropped Caleb off and came home for a nap. I slept till 9:30, got dressed, and walked the dogs. I got to Carole’s at 10:30 (half an hour past our planned meeting time) and Lindy was already there, but Eloise would not be coming. We got in Lindy’s car, after a tour of Carole’s new rugs, and drove to A’ali Pottery where one of the guys showed us around inside – the ceramic vs paint options. There are plenty. Outside we got to watch a guy create a small vase on a pottery wheel in the floor. Downstairs we watched a guy trim a hand he’s carving before driving two blocks to Delmon Pottery and parking in front of the black flags waving in the wind.

molding clay into art

molding clay into art

There is a larger selection available inside, more Hello Kitty and Spongebob, and a sign that says, “make and paint” which I want to do. The large kilns are outside and they have another building where they make their creations. Then it was off to lunch in a food plaza past Ramli Mall. We decided on Nu Asia, but they don’t open until noon – another 15 minutes, so we went to Healthy Bite Coffee Shop. There are protein powders lining the walls and large glass doors leading to a members’ only gym. I got a mocha latte smoothie and the girls got fruity ones. We chatted until my drink slurping was long over.

clay making materials

clay making materials

We crossed the street and sat upstairs near the window. I ordered the paneer burrito with tzatziki dip and mango pickle, masala fries with ketchup, and a sweet & sour apple drink. Lindy ordered chicken chow mien and we both helped Carole with her large plate of sushi. We got back to Carole’s between 2:30 and 3pm and Lindy needed to go to housing on base. I went to the Dragon Hotel to pick up the receipt for the last week we were there (almost two months ago) and Caleb was on his way home via bike. I met him at the intersection of the checkered towers and he was drenched in sweat.

man at work

man at work

Caleb went upstairs and I walked with Eloise back to her house with bike pump in hand so she could air up her tires. We talked for an hour and then I came home to dinner on the stove. I looked through Arabia Food & Travel magazine that I got while at the hotel. I thought there would be some great ideas in there – and the recipes are, but the $10k yacht rentals are still out of my budget.

my favorite piece in Delmon Pottery

my favorite piece in Delmon Pottery

Caleb washed the dogs, so I thought I would wash their blankets. I made the mistake of adding some of my clothes to the load. The washer wouldn’t drain and the dryer overheated. We had to ring the clothes out repeatedly and hang some stuff up to drip on the floor overnight. I would be up until midnight dealing with laundry while using that time to update my Couchsurfing profile.

Healthy Bites Coffee Shop

Healthy Bites Coffee Shop

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Surprise Birthday Lunch

surprises, sweets, and friends bring out the Miley in me!

surprises, sweets, and friends bring out the Miley in me!

I had plans for lunch with just Eloise and Carole, or so I thought. Eloise picked me up in her car at 11:45 and we picked up a new wife, Lindy, on base and drove to Lilou’s where Amy was waiting with a gift bag for me and some paper crowns for the surprise birthday lunch in my honor. I serendipitously picked out the crown with a star on top, and wouldn’t be the only one to break the small rubber band on the back.

delicious mixed-berry concoction

delicious mixed-berry concoction

We were joined by Yanell and Lucas, Reika, and two other wives that sat at the far end of the table and left too soon for introductions. We talked for an hour before ordering drinks. I got a tall Harmonie De Baies Rouges (strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, blueberry and lime) with a strawberry on the rim cut into a heart. And at some point ordered food that seemed to arrive, faster than the refreshing beverages, 15 minutes later.

tomato + cheese equals salad. this one comes with lots of toppings!

tomato + cheese equals salad. this one comes with lots of toppings!

I spent less time devouring the salad with cherry and sun-dried tomatoes, avocado, shaved parmesan, and sun-dried tomato bread on the side than I did delicately eating what came next. Everyone got their food and thirty minutes later when most of us began craving dessert, and Amy stood up to check out the dessert case and was told to sit back down by Eloise, is when the staff came out singing “Happy Birthday”. Something about this as an adult is just as much fun, if not more, than it was as a child. I smiled like a fool as the song let everyone in there know that I had made it another year on this planet.

it's my dessert in a box!

it’s my dessert in a box!

Another rotation around the sun which included visiting Niagara Falls for a day, getting pushed onstage at a King Khan concert, making it back to Dry Tortugas and weathering the storm, snowshoeing in Yellowstone, celebrating my sixth anniversary at a Cirque de Soleil show, spending St. Patrick’s Day with one of my best friends from grade school, making it to Alaska where I saw my first bear and moose, making my first international flight as an adult (and second flight with Caleb), becoming an expat in Bahrain, riding the World’s Fastest Coaster in Abu Dhabi, and making friends like these.

Lucas, the lone man, with his leading lady, Yanell

Lucas, the lone man, with his leading lady, Yanell

They are great. They love their husbands; their pets, jobs, and kids (if they have any), and their ability to learn, explore, and travel. They know what they like – laughter, comfy couches, friendship, good food, and are willing to conquer all the challenges that life brings (new traffic laws (or lack thereof), language barriers, and a different workweek with the introduction of Ramadan) for the experience so that they can enjoy the beauty in life to the fullest – even if that means trying new things in a country fond of Molotov cocktails. 

thank you Lindy for capturing the moment

thank you Lindy for capturing the moment

I got a plate with the words Happy Birthday written in strawberry sauce (I know because I licked it) with a cube of dessert in the middle. It was white, topped with pomegranate seeds, yellow gel, one yellow and white candle, a chocolate piece with Lilou written on it, and a dropper full of more word sauce. Inside this delicious geometric shape was a custard hiding soft cake that enveloped a white chocolate cup with yet another surprise inside – more strawberry sauce!

a picture full of awesome

Reika, Carole, me, Lucas, Yanell, Amy, Eloise, Lindy

I spent a good twenty minutes savouring the separate and mixed flavors as the world around me seemed to melt away. Ok, maybe I’m overstating myself here, but it was yummy and the mood was delightful. Eloise and Carole paid for my lunch. This is, by far, the greatest birthday gift a friend, and group of friends, has given me – a surprise, free food, some presents, and great memories – in years. Thank you Eloise for arranging this. And thank you to the countless other people that have helped make my life memorable, and sometimes forgettable, over the years.

some Facebook action from loving family

some Facebook action from loving family

I spent the rest of the afternoon, lunch was three hours, with some me time. I took some selfies inspired by photos online until the sun set. Then I got on the treadmill and just as I found a pace my phone rang. The music app stopped playing so I could hear my dad’s voice on the other end. He didn’t feel like talking to me while I panted into the speaker, so he quickly let me go. I wanted to converse with him, but was grateful to finish my run and shower before he called me back.

one of the selfies I took. I love the reflective quality on my floor

one of the selfies I took. I love the reflective quality on my floor

I would finish my run with the help of YouTube. I can run without music, but prefer not to when the only sound is my feet pounding on the revolving belt and hard plastic underneath. This was more awesome than I thought as watching videos helped take my mind off what I was doing. The reason for the switch was that whichever app I’d been using (Pandora or Spotify or whatever) can only stream to the U.S. Luckily there will always be YouTube and I found Jango to keep me company too.

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The Introvert After Birthday Excursions

automated birthday message, thanks Dad

automated birthday message, thanks Dad

I spent three days after my birthday with wanderlust for destinations as varied as Doha, Reykjavík, or southern Europe; and motivation to go back to school to get my bachelor’s degree for elementary education and English. I would spend this time researching both. I looked into school’s from the States, mostly Texas A&M, Fort Hays, FSCJ, ASU, Seattle, and UMASS for their international program, but they wanted to see me on campus first.

social media is at it again, but this birthday message oozes love that's also auto-generated

social media is at it again, but this birthday message oozes love that’s also auto-generated

The prices are doable with the money we are making here, but I still looked into ways to help pay for school. ASU will lower your tuition if you live on the West Coast and not in Arizona, or if you work at Starbucks full-time after 60 days and 21 credits. I could get in-state tuition if I lived with my parents a year prior to enrolling in Texas or Arizona, and was turned off by Kansas’s university’s ability to update their website – especially if I would be taking my courses online.

post birthday selfie

post birthday selfie

This left ASU, A&M, and FSCJ to apply for. Their applications are not short and the process not easy. I exchanged emails and called them trying to figure out a way to do the requirements necessary. I’m quickly approaching the deadline for Spring 2015 admission, and the college office on base says I could go to some Maryland Europe university, but they mostly help people get their associate’s. I will be looking into studying abroad.

a happy snack

a happy snack

I also paid rent, my first time with direct deposit here. To save on the 4% charged to my card for paying the Dinar Man directly I had to go downstairs to Navy Federal. I waited behind two people and then was called to the counter. The man began transferring money, multiple times, between our accounts. I knew there would be a mess when I checked on it from home later, but wanted to get through this transaction.

 

I needed two forms of ID and he had to call someone over to double-check what he had done and then sign the check. I would take the $2,760 up to the Dinar Man where he would exchange it for a check worth  1,041 dinars and then charge me BD1 to deposit the check into the local bank. It might seem like a bit of a hassle, perks of living overseas, but people’s rent payments are spread out throughout the month, so the employees are never stressed about it.

receipt of payment

receipt of payment

 

I also spent time reading Operation Mincemeat: The true spy story that changed the course of WWII by Ben Macintyre while eating snacks and hanging out with the dogs. Now that the temperature is cooling off outside, Sparky is able to sit out there for a ten minute period. He longs for his big San Diego backyard, but passes the time either on the couch in a corner or on a blanket on the floor in front of the sun-filled window.

my reading buddies, Sparky and Piggy

my reading buddies, Sparky and Piggy

Kamal, our maintenance man, came by to check on the non-working outlets upstairs. He opened the breaker box and noticed that one had popped and Caleb hadn’t turned it back on while fidgeting with it. It’s no wonder Kamal takes his time coming out here, hoping that his clients will have been smart enough to figure it out by then. He spent some time playing ball with Sparky and then took a picture of him on top of the cabinet by the door before leaving. Overall it’s been a relaxing and productive three days.

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