Volcanically High Bears Crossing Borders

Posted on June 9, 2013 by TheJessicaness
Bastogne or Bust

Bastogne or Bust

Sleep in until 6 am and then spend the morning reading until Pam and Chester are out of the shower and I can take a picture of his purple toe – the same one he hit on the ottoman yesterday that sounded like his toe was knocking on the door. He wants to make sure I have plenty of blog material, but I prefer pain-free toe portraits. They get fancy for church and I follow them out of the neighborhood. I go left to the 70 North and they turn right.

I drive through Oroville – the town my husband was born in. It’s more emotional than I thought it would be. I’m at the place where he entered the world while he is over 6, 500 nautical miles away. The town is bigger than I thought it would be – mainly because he grew up in Big Timber, MT and the population difference is over 15,000 versus 1,600 respectively. I went by the hospital and would’ve gone by his babyhood home had their been signs for that too.

Pumpkinland Chocolate Co.

Pumpkinland Chocolate Co.

Just cruising along when I see a sign on Hwy 99 with the words pumpkin and chocolate. I do a U-turn to investigate this tasty treat. There is a nice pond outside with a waterfall and a wooden swing. Inside there are shelves of chocolate covered items and behind the counter are samples that I try while deciding on my ice cream flavor – mocha almond fudge. I also buy a sampler tray of dark, milk, and white chocolates.

There are 3 scoops of ice cream to be eaten before they melt. The chocolate will have to wait – even if that means being melted first and then re-hardened for consumption. Some combinations left me wanting more – nuts and crisped rice, but others weren’t for me with their overly sweet filling. This would keep me occupied on the 36 E until I notice Lassen Volcanic National Park – today’s main to-do.

colorful peaks

colorful peaks

I had every intention of spending the day hiking. I wasn’t going to let a little snow on the path slow me down and if I ever find myself on the northeast side of the park I will be hiking to Cinder Cone where I can look into a volcano. Turns out there is a little more than a foot of snow on the ground – lakes are still partially frozen and people are skiing down the mountains. I was going to hike Lassen Peak, but can’t find the trailhead.

There is a short informational trail about the Devastated Area and the rocks and other evidence of the Lassen eruption in may 1915. There are new and old rocks, local and distant rocks, and rocks formed when basalt met magma. What made me jump is the motion-sensored audio attached to each sign that reads it verbatim. Once I learned that I could hear the other speakers talking as people made their way around the loop.

trees huddling together to stay warm

trees huddling together to stay warm

I parked by Reflection Lake and watched the goose move about in the water and the ripples they caused move the plant life near shore. I walked to the Loomis Museum where I learned about the plants, artifacts, different baskets, rock types, and the length of time it takes for the area around an erupted volcano to recover – which depends on the amount of ash, snow, rainfall, proximity to blast, elevation, and plants and animals ability to adapt.

On the radio, Born to be Wild sang by Steppenwolf, is playing as I enter the town of Old Station – “another tiny village that was more a gathering of buildings than a town.” as it’s referred to in the book I’m reading, Wild, that took place in 1995 and is still relevant to the present, but that it doesn’t mention the new business of Chainsaw Carvings that offer bears, trees, benches, and other things you might find in the area.

Lassen covered in snow

Lassen peak covered in snow

I was going to just drive by, but this shop seemed different from the rest, and I thought taking a picture would connect me more to the novel and the history of this place and I’m glad I did. All the locals speak of trail angels and the hikers that come through. I took a picture and was going to leave when Jeff came out to let me know the prices of what they had for sell. I was thinking it over when a couple stopped to do the same.

I decided Jeff was worth talking to for a bit and it would get me out of the car since I didn’t get enough time in Lassen. I got to watch him carve me a bear starting from the five-foot log that was cut from a local forest down to the nine-inch bear that I was able to take with me after he had been sanded and given eyeballs. I was told he could be torched (given dark feet and hair) after he dried. I asked Jeff to sign his art and he kindly obliged.

Jeff giving Waddle eyes

Jeff giving Waddle eyes

He would walk across the street with me to get a lemonade and water – hydration is important whether at work or on vacation. I thank him for the bear and for spending time with me, but he lets me know he is grateful too as it’s not every day a pretty girl stops to chat him up and some days of being covered in sweat and sawdust can become monotonous and particularly quiet on this small town road.

Next stop – WEED. That’s not a reference to the drug…well, it might be. I didn’t name the town in northern California off Hwy 5, but don’t worry I’m not on the highway long. It’s just my connecting point between 89 W and the 97 N that I plan on taking all the way to Madras, OR before getting on the 26. Me and Waddle (I named the bear) will make it into Oregon tonight and camp at Collier Memorial State Park after watching the sun set.

Posted in Art, Camping, Education, Family, Food, Friends, History, People, Places, Plants, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Sutter Buttes and Wet Butts

Posted on June 8, 2013 by TheJessicaness
peach orchard

peach orchard

Uncle Chester reads my blog and knows that I like to ride my bike. With that in mind he suggests that I get up early in the morning and ride around the world’s smallest mountain range before it gets too hot. I took him up on the idea and set out to drive near and find a parking spot at 5:30 am. He figured it would take me an hour and a half to ride 38 miles, but it ended up taking me a bit longer to drive the Butte roads and back – 54 miles.

It would take less time for the temperature to climb. I was hoping to hike the mountain, but all the land is private for growing peaches, raising cattle, and keeping bees that make honey and help pollinate the nuts, melons, beans, and prunes (of Sunsweet Growers) also in the area. There seems to be part of a spaceship that has fallen into a field, a memorial for Major General Fremont, and a private road that warns, ‘use at your own risk’.

Sutter Buttes

Sutter Buttes

I stop at Bel-Air Supermarket on the way back to the house for some coffee that will be drank before my return. I take a shower at 8 am and with the others still sleeping I can spend some quiet time reading and taking travel notes. We, Chester and I, spend the rest of the morning in conversation as he creates some CDs for the road. I will get Tom’s Fun Rock: Special Jessie Edition 1&2, Road Music Edition, and Pop’s Psychedelic Edition 1&2.

On the cover are his boys: David, Joe, and Tom. The bottom reads: ‘In 1986, a 4 LP album was released, titled FUN ROCK. 3 boys played it till the grooves wore out… 25 years later, the best songs have been found, added to, and burned to CD. I dare you to wear out the grooves on this one!’ I hear their kids enjoy listening to the music their parents grew up on. I feel it brings me closer to the family and my favorite songs are Can’t Touch This by MC Hammer – a Tom fave, and Monster Mash by Bobby Pickett & The Crypt-Kickers.

random object in field

random object in field

By 1:00 pm, it was time to load the cooler and the car for John’s 50th birthday party at the local POW/MIA Spray Park. We load the potato salad; drive across the street to pick up Annie May, Joe’s wife; by the store to get some Mucho Mango drink, and then to the park to party in the shade. The kids, and kids at heart – Chester and Pam, will play in the water when it’s barely working and then enjoy its cooling factor when the tank has been refilled.

I get to meet Joe while he is on a lunch break from work and his kids – Johnathan and Lorauna. John’s daughter is 12 or 13 and full of conversation while I eat salad, scones, and mint brownie and wash it all down with a bottle of water – Pat brought two cases to help beat the heat. Some people leave sooner than we do, but 2.5 hours is all we can take before we decide to retreat indoors to air conditioning and more adult conversation.

John's birthday brownies

John’s birthday brownies

Thanks to Johnathan I’m deemed not adult enough to stay inside – I am more a mommy/aunt age not grandparent like the others in the room, so I join him outside to watch him play – it’s 100 degrees. He climbs the tree in the front yard and pulls down an eight-foot stick he hid up there and then tosses his noise gun down that I play with for a bit. Soon I decide it’s time for a water and lay on the cool floor break inside.

Chester makes fun of me saying all I did was stand there. I’m young enough to go outside, but my youthful energy escapes me in this heat. Annie May takes her son home so that it will be quiet enough for some movie time. First up is A Fistful of Dollars made in 1964. My favorite Clint Eastwood film is still The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, which leaves me with A Few Dollars More to watch in the Dollars Trilogy.

Johnathan aka Watermelon Man aka Sir Wet Butt

Johnathan aka Watermelon Man aka Sir Wet Butt

Clint owns that small town, but now I’m ready for some laughs – and that’s just what I get when we watch The A-Team – a film that took too long to make for the profit it received at the box office. To wind down from the days festivities we will play a game of Orbis – a mix between Checkers and Backgammon, then trim some playing cards for another game. I’m gifted with my own Orbis game that I can play – and use to spread the word of Terran Games Good Times. Another day that ends at midnight complete.

Posted in Animals, Birthday, Entertainment, Family, Food, Friends, Music, People, Plants, Water | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Bodie to Burgers

Posted on June 7, 2013 by TheJessicaness
view west on 270

view west on 270

There are some benefits of waking up at 5:30 in the morning, especially when the sun is already shining, but there can be conflicting hours of operation as well. Down the road to Bodie State Park is a sheep farm. I would’ve stopped to take pictures – the sheep dogs looked friendly enough, but the dogs guarding the trailer were in the road and ready to kill. It’s a good thing I don’t like dead animals – especially splashed as décor on my vehicle.

It’s about ten miles of brown rocks, green shrubbery, yellow tinted snowy mountains, and paved road. Then there is the dust storm to drive through before the three miles of dirt road that will deliver me to the park entrance – after noting the sign says, ‘Park Hours 9a-6p No Services.’ I continue on to get a peek and the site looks like an amazing place to explore – somewhere that would take me back in history, but all the signs say Don’t Enter!

Now, had I been the car of visitors from Asia, I might’ve waited the three hours for the park to open, but since I wasn’t I waved at them as they shrugged at me. I hope they enjoyed it to the full extent. Perhaps one day I can return with the same enthusiasm. The drive away from Bodie is even more amazing – green and yellow hills with a road zigzagging through it and mountains with a valley. I wouldn’t mind living here.

Court House in Bridgeport

Court House in Bridgeport

I’m making my way through this small town and stop to take a picture of the court house when after looking around I realize that I’ve been here before. I’m in the town of Bridgeport – a town Caleb and I spent a night in after finding Mammoth Lakes too pricey. I get some gas at the other end of town and the attendant could care less about my enthusiasm for the place he chose to work.

I stop in the town of Walker because I like the way it looks. There are colorful motels and cafes and gift shops with their own personal decorations. I photograph the birdhouses, the flowers, and the tea being brewed in the sun. I walk across the street to Mountain View Barbeque and go inside because it’s open. I’m not hungry enough for their country-sized breakfast, but I do enjoy looking at their signs, murals, license plates, and patches among other things covering the walls.

Somewhere along the 89 I see a snake over three feet long – a Speckled Kingsnake, and pull over to take his picture. At first I think he is really photogenic and then I see his bloody smile and notice his lifeless body. Then I feel sad for him and wonder how long he has been there. I should’ve found a stick or something to move him out of the road. I’m not sure if he got hoofed or tired to death, but his body is quite resilient.

view on the 89

view on the 89

The 89 turns out to be a high-traffic area for cyclists and as I pass them I’m thinking how nice it is that my car is cruising downhill, then I realize they must be looking forward to the return trip when they can let their legs relax. Some might have been doing a 60-mile day – at least the one I talked to was, and others had their cars parked on the shoulder and had their own distances that they were ready to cover.

I see a large sign that says JOUST and I quickly park near the no parking sign to get out and see what this is about. I’m thinking it’s a role-playing event, but soon realize that Phoenix isn’t the only city with a Renaissance Faire. This one looks huge and is covered in shade, but if I’m going to pay it’s going to be for a full day of festivities…no point in waiting another hour or two for only four hours of fun…well, maybe had it been scheduled in.

Then I see Lake Tahoe – a place my little brother, Jay, wants to visit for all the reasons the people are here – drinking, fishing, kiting, swimming…picking up ladies. I stop along the road to take in the views and then pull into Inspiration Point where I read about Vikingsholm – a Scandinavian Castle, and Mrs. Knight – the woman who made it all possible with her funds and extreme kindness.

Vikingsholm from the beach

Vikingsholm from the beach

As I go to leave the parking lot I hear my name. I turn around and see Susan (one of the women I hiked with yesterday) and seconds later Mara approaches. They decided to take more than a day to drive to Lassen Volcanic Park – a main stop on their list before their return to Washington. They read about the teahouse on the island and other events in the history of Emerald Bay and Lake Tahoe and decided to drive on. I decided to stay.

From where we are it’s a mile drive to the parking lot – that’s $10 in State Park fees, then a mile walk through tall trees and past some babbling brooks. I arrive to the museum/office at 10:20 am and the next tour starts at 11:00 am (another $10) which gives me time to explore. I photograph the pollen, ducks, geese, and children in the water with their parents in the sand. I get some time to read about the extensive work that went into the house and the lives of the people who called this place home every summer for 15 years.

The guided tour lasts 15 minutes. We are told that we are not allowed in the rooms so that we don’t destroy the tapestry – the one in the library is made of cashmere. We are told about the rooms with locked doors and about the service basement that runs under the house. We are told about the price and material of the house and the amenities given to staff and guests during their stay. Then we are free to roam and look around upstairs.

front room in Vikingsholm

front room in Vikingsholm

What furnishing weren’t bought from Scandinavia were made with hand-carved wood, local quarried stone, and hand-wrought iron amongst 200 workers during one season. 200 acres and a 7-bed/7-bath home cost Mrs. Knight $400,000 in 1928-29. Everything is so personal and artistically made – from the doors to the curtains, chairs, lamps, desks, decorations, windows, ceiling, and themed bedrooms.

Still taking in the details I notice a silence – the crowd has left. Now it’s just me and the guide that I sit down next to and share some conversation about the amazing beauty, history, and generosity of this place. Then I notice a small baggy on the ground and can’t tell if the bugs are in it or died underneath it, so I pick it up. The guide tells me it belongs to a scientist nearby – whether official or mad she didn’t clarify.

Now time to see Lower Eagle Falls – the only one flowing directly into the lake. It’s only a few short paces and 15 stone steps later to the bridge viewing-platform, but that’s only part of the way. I also get to walk among aspen trees with little yellow birds on their branches. The walk back seems more uphill than what I walked down and the sun is staring at my skin and quickly metabolizing any food and water had prior to 9:30 am – now 12:30 pm.

Art Deco at Uncle Chester's

Art Deco at Uncle Chester’s

I had planned on stopping in Truckee – the name of my brother-in-law’s truck, but seemingly drove straight through and was on Hwy 80 for 27 miles before taking 20 West into Marysville (a small town 40 miles north of Sacramento) where I would be spending a night or two with Caleb’s Uncle Chester (his dad’s brother). The night was off to a great start – the brothers both have a sense of humor, a great love of history, and the ability to be the loudest in the room.

It being 103 degrees outside I was made a family/friend favorite cooling beverage – a mango madness consisting of top-secret ingredients. I got to meet Charles’ wife of 13 years, Pam and their daughter Roni; his friend for over 30 years, Pat; and Caleb’s cousin Tom for a few seconds. He asked when he last saw me and I told him we’ve never met, but that the last time he saw Caleb he was four years old – Tom would’ve been 10.

Just so happens that Chester likes to try new foods and buy in bulk when something he likes goes on sale. This is how he happened upon veggie patties – something the vegetarian could have for dinner with lots of fixins – mayo, mustard, relish, lettuce, cheese, etc. He showed me his game room – he is a game inventor/player and a soon-to-be-author of a book titled Time – a humorous look into love in historical times.

some potato salad ingredients

some potato salad ingredients

He chooses to introduce me to a game called Art Deco that involves the use of cards, dice, and poker chips. I won, but I’m sure that’s just beginner’s luck, though Caleb would tell you it’s wifey luck as it’s rare that he wins at cards or Scrabble, but he does have me beat with Chess as I don’t commit the moves to memory. Conversation carried us into the 9 o’clock hour when we began to boil potatoes to make a salad.

Chester boiled the eggs and I peeled them. I cut up pickles and he cut the peppers and potatoes. We mixed in some other ingredients, licked the bowl and spoon, and set in the refrigerator for tomorrow’s enjoyment. I had a room in the back of the house with a big comfy bed and lots of pillows. I plugged my camera battery charger in and found my way to sleep around midnight.

Posted in Animals, Art, Camping, Education, Family, Food, Friends, Hiking, History, People, Photography, Places, Plants, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Waterfall Sunrise

Posted on June 6, 2013 by TheJessicaness
purple lupine

purple lupine

Feeling sleepy, I stop in the town of Oakhurst and get a crappy coffee and clean the multitude of bugs off the windshield – it’s good to have a clean canvas for the day’s art. Then I see a Jamba Juice and make a U-turn. I have to wait a few minutes for them to open, but it’s worth it. I get a green smoothie for $4 and a new shirt for $7.52. I also have to wait in a short line to get into Yosemite National Park this morning.

This park is known for having a weather pattern all its own. In the middle of Tioga Pass rain and snow can be frequent, but they are less so today than when I was here three weeks ago. I wish I could say the same for the amount of people in the park – it has more than tripled. Summer is here and people want to see the flowers blooming and the ice melt (waterfalls) from the mountain top. There are people playing on rocks where water usually is – the snow was light this year.

Merced River

Merced River

My main goal of today’s visit is to drive up to Glacier Point. When I was here with my dad a guy suggested that we see it – it being the highlight of the park – besides the overrated Half Dome. It’s located 16 miles down a dead-end road. Coming around a turn I notice a coyote in the trees and park in the road to photograph him. I was going to wave the car behind me around, but noticed a car coming from the other direction so I moved on.

Luckily, finishing the turn there is a large parking lot that I pulled in to – Washburn Point. I got out to approach the one in the trees and ended up having to get out of the way of another that strode past me and through the parking lot past a couple in awe with their camera aimed at him too. Also in view are three waterfalls, Half Dome, a snow plant, some beautiful lupine, and some guys sunbathing on the rocks.

mountain, trees, and water

mountain, trees, and water

I continue down another set of turns before parking at Glacier Point and then walking over a quarter-mile to the viewing platform. There I will meet a father and son, with sore thighs, that won the lottery (not money, but the chance to hike Half Dome) and claimed their prize yesterday. They told me the view was better from here. I think they were a bit bummed, but they had a well spent 11 hours to brag about.

The father asked if I could take their picture with the dome in the background and then let me use his binoculars to see the tiny people who had made it to the top this morning. It was neat to see them all crawling around the size of ants. At the geology hut are binoculars you can use and I pointed out the people on the dome to two different groups – they were glad I did as they felt it hard to imagine anyone on such a ledge.

Sentinel Falls

Sentinel Falls

I’ve heard of people falling and dying – it happens more than we might like to think on steep climbs involving cables, but what I didn’t know was that some people have jumped from Half Dome. It might seem like a beautiful idea, but I think it’s a bit rude to the other hikers and the crew that has to collect their broken body at the bottom. With that news, I make my way back to Wawona Road to head into the Valley.

I stop at Bridalveil Falls and they look familiar – this is where my dad and I would get the advice from a fellow traveler to see Glacier Point. These falls are better seen closer to sunset than sunrise. Right now the sun is blinding instead of giving the falls a rainbow to add to the splendor. I take a picture and continue to my own personal oasis near the Merced River – or so I thought until I got attacked by mosquitoes.

toll rates prior to 1909

toll rates prior to 1909

I went back to the car for DEET, sprayed my arms and feet, and then went back to the river. I was going to get a picture of my feet in the water with a shadow and reflection. It was going to be awesome, but my camera battery died. I gave up on the moment and warned others as they were arriving of the blood-sucking locals before making my way to the packed parking lot (which would be full upon my return) near Yosemite Village.

There is a nice bike path that would take me where I want to go, but I feel like going slower so I set out on foot. There is also a shuttle that takes people to some of the villages, campgrounds, and trailheads. Into the museum to learn some history and I get a personal moment with Julia Parker – a woman who has been with the park service for over 30 years. She used to work for them and now she volunteers her time weaving baskets and sharing her family’s story.

beautiful rock face

beautiful rock face

She is sitting in her corner office, but kindly gets up to explain in greater detail the artifacts in the next room to me and a guy that has shown a great interest when he realized she is the woman in the video on the wall, the one shown in pictures at a younger age, and the one with her name next to a lot of the weaved baskets for storing food and children. A lady takes our picture as she enjoys overhearing the conversation and learning a little more about an oversized basket that we were debating the weight of.

Back to the car to drive it to the parking lot near the lodge and across the street from Lower Yosemite Fall. I would’ve hiked to the Upper Fall, but with an estimated hike time of 6-8 hours I didn’t feel like returning in the dark. After passing a cluster of children, some of them with ice cream, I decided I wanted some too – the dessert, not the overly loud students taking up the sidewalk.

tree growing on rocks

tree growing on rocks

I walk towards the lodge and the bike rental office directs me around the corner, towards the pool, to a small building with ice cream. Chase will get me a scoop of cookies ‘n cream and strawberry in a cake cone and keep me in conversation while I enjoy it in the shade of the wooden awning. He’s also in charge of the button that unlocks the pool gate (free for the hotel guests) and we have fun watching people try to push it open.

My next stop is a bridge with a waterfall, or what’s left of it as I can see where the water had been running. The view is still nice and I cross to the other side when traffic allows. There I meet Bob, who has a Muir look about him, sitting on the railing too, staring out into the distance. It is near this bridge that I will spend the next hour talking with him about music, opportunity, work, love of travel, and relationships.

panorama of Tenaya Lake

panorama of Tenaya Lake

Our conversation is going so well that we don’t let a little rain stop us. I put my camera in the car to keep it dry and he gives me a CD that he made and is trying to get heard. Well I listened to it – a few times. One of my favorite lines is, “For you I would manicure a grizzly bear…” and I plan on sharing the tunes and the good vibe that Bob and his music brought to me and the ambience of what it is to be in Yosemite and its loving mindset.

From the rain, it’s on to play in the snow. Putting the CD in I learn that I have a 6-disc changer in my car – the car that I’ve owned for 16 months. I pass more waterfalls, more large rock faces, more tall trees, more mountains in the distance, and park at Tenaya Lake to get my feet wet and take a family portrait of four with the water reflecting the view in the background. I’m able to enjoy the water here, mosquito free, and take more pictures.

yellow-bellied marmot

yellow-bellied marmot

The lake offers multiple views and I stop along the road to get each angle as I walk along the small path. On to Tuolumne Meadows where the view is just as expansive, but covered in grass with watery patches. I’m glad someone thought to preserve this pristine park and though there may be a few paved roads and a museum there is no Wal-Mart in sight. I will see some mule deer, but no bears today, and the sight of the exit is too soon.

I park on the roadside and walk back in. I notice a sign for Gaylor Lakes Trail and what appears to be both ends of this one-mile walk. Soon I’m headed up a muddy trail, over rocks, and past a beautiful juniper tree. I see a new to me purple and yellow plant, some more mule deer, and snowy mountain peaks. Once at the top I catch up to some other hikers – Susan and Mara, mother from Flagstaff and daughter from Olympia.

Gaylor Lake

Gaylor Lake

I share that my Grandma lives in Tempe and her daughter, my aunt, just moved to Everett – how neat, I think. We continue on the hike together. Coming around a corner I point out a yellow-bellied marmot that goes from posing on a fallen tree to a rock to the grass. We make our way down to the cold water and the view is worth it. I share stories of my travels so far, about Couchsurfing experiences, and about my blog where my tales will be retold.

Even though I’m out of the park I think the earth around me is so pretty that I forget to blink, but I am reminded to keep pulling over to get out of the way of angry drivers that have somewhere else to be, something else to see. I’m grateful for this moment of peace, happiness, and relaxation – I am truly on vacation and enjoying every moment of it. To add to my delight, the Mobil Restaurant (gas station cuisine) near Lee Vining is open.

spicy chili - good cold too

spicy chili – good cold too

Inside I order the Vegetarian Chili with cornbread – one of two veggie options on the menu, and grab a Tuolumne Meadows IPA from the cooler. When I signed my receipt I thought the cashier might’ve missed something, but I checked and was amazed at the prices. I felt like I was at a resort, but paying for dinner at a family owned restaurant – it definitely had that feel at Whoa Nellie Deli with the friendly customer service.

I grabbed a dish out of the car to take the rest of the chili with me. Through Lee Vining and down a dirt road that leads to Mono Lake where there is salt, limestone, and seagulls covered in the colors of sunset. It’s starting to get dark and I don’t know where I will be staying for the night – I better get back on the road and figure it out. There is camping near Bodie on the way to Bridgeport and this is where I will set up for the night.

Mono Lake

Mono Lake

Once the sun goes down I put on my headlamp and grab my current read – Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail by Cheryl Strayed. This book was gifted to me by my dad only a week ago, but it’s part of the reason I’m on this trip and feeling so inspired. Cheryl was my age in 1995 when she made the decision to change her life. She is an amazing author that can write about her mother dying, heroine abuse, and huge blisters on her feet and still motivate me to want to get out and see life one step at a time.

Posted in Animals, Art, Books, Camping, Education, Family, Fiber Arts, Food, Friends, Hiking, History, Music, People, Photography, Plants, Things, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

The Peace of Being Alone

Posted on June 5, 2013 by TheJessicaness
lake near Kernville

Lake Isabella

Some days there is no greater joy than riding in the car with the window down listening to the birds sing and the engine rumble its way around the curves and up the hills. I start my morning off at 4:30 am when the light and temperature change. I grab my coat as a blanket and go back to sleep until 5. Then I get up to watch the sun rise and the bunnies hop. Today will be a slow drive; I will average 24 mph and cover 310 miles in 13 hours.  I got to drive around the northern half of Lake Isabella and through the town of Kernville.

Heading west on 155, Evans Rd, will bring me to the Greenhorn Mountain Park. It was the old stone wall that drew my attention and caused me to park on the shoulder. I felt like moving in. There is a fireplace, a curved staircase, an outhouse, and a mattress spring along with some other scraps and parts. Further down the road are squirrels, cows, and turkeys playing in the street.

outhouse at Greenhorn Mountain Park

outhouse at Greenhorn Mountain Park

The fields are filled with trees, rocks, horses, oil pumps, and an old railroad track. On to 65N and the road is being repaved leading into Porterville. Then I drive through Exeter, past Lake Kaweah, by Three Rivers, and into Sequoia National Park. This place makes my eyes pop. There are hills covered in water and color – green, yellow, white, pink, and tan. Each tree is a piece of art and I’m flabbergasted at how much I love the look and feel of them, so much so that I want to wear their bark and carry a matching bag to pet.

They are very fire resistant and their bark will grow over scars caused by wildfires that burn down smaller trees and brush – just nature doing its thing, but I think it’s phenomenal. I am all smiles and I want to touch each tree, get to know its bark. Somewhere along the road is Auto Log that fell in 1917 with a base diameter of 21 feet and has been photographed with cars on it – hence the name. Being dead it didn’t feel the same, but that didn’t stop me from laying on it and feeling its size and strength.

field along road 155

field along road 155

Next on the list of places the ranger suggest I see is Moro Rock. Judging by the picture I think it’s going to be up 20 stairs and out to a viewing ledge. I was wrong – and that made me happy. There are over 350 steps to the top. Two girls won’t make it; one is afraid of heights and the other feels she is suffering from elevation sickness – the peak is 6,725 feet, and she is from Florida where the highest point is 345 feet – that’s a big difference.

I make my way up the first flight of stairs and am already impressed with the view. Then this guy tells me, ‘Wait till you get to the top!’ It’s crazy how such beauty can make me so happy. Others are talkative and friendly too and we share the best angles to photograph of the stairs and mountain tops. I wouldn’t mind living up here, but it’s time to go to the next stop that will make me smile – I get to drive my car through a tree, but not exactly.

my feet on the Auto Log

my feet on the Auto Log

The tree has a big hole cut out, but is lifted off the ground. There is enough tree to go around, but I understand that if enough cars were to run over it there would soon enough not be any for the rest of us. The size impresses me and is hard to fathom – I grew up around small cedars and oak trees. I take a picture from every angle and realize that if this tree were hollowed out I could hide my car in it – mind blown!

If that weren’t enough, I get to see the largest tree on Earth – not by height or width, but by volume; its circumference on the ground is 102 feet – big enough to not fit fully in a picture I took standing on the railing. There are many foreign visitors here getting their photo taken in front of this giant wonder, others are busy behind them trying every possible angle to show family at home just how, “F*ing Large!” these trees in America are.

base of General Sherman Tree

base of General Sherman Tree

I arrive at the Lodgepole Visitor Center at 2:30 pm and am now worried that I may not see the rest of the park. It took me 3.5 hours to see what the ranger says it takes most people 45 minutes – I’m not most people. I decide to drive to Kings Canyon to see some of that park too. It takes me another hour down a long and beautiful road; it’s hard not to stop. I get my passport stamped, view the exhibits, and ask the rangers what I shouldn’t miss.

I’m told it’s a two-hour roundtrip to the Roads End and that there are two waterfalls I should see along the way – Grizzly and Roaring River. I walk the Grant Tree Trail and learn about other honored trees around the world – Bodhi trees in India, the Major Oak in England, the baobab in Africa, the Great Sugi in Japan, Tane mahuta in New Zealand, and the El Tule in Mexico – the thickest tree in the world.

view from Kings Canyon Scenic Byway

view from Kings Canyon Scenic Byway

There is what’s left of a hollowed out sequoia that I was able to walk through. Further down the path is the Gamlin Cabin built of stout wood by two brothers. This cabin would serve as their home, a storehouse by the U.S. Cavalry, and eventually the quarters of the first park ranger. The General Grant is the 3rd largest tree by volume and was designated as the Nation’s Christmas Tree in 1926 by President Coolidge.

I stopped to take a few photos along the way, but attempted to make it to the Cedar Grove VC that is located in the middle of the park. Most of the park is hiking trails with wilderness ranger stations scattered throughout that are only open during the summer. I made it by 4:45 pm, but they were already closed. I went to Roaring River Falls and climbed down the rocks to touch the cold water – even after reading the deadly river sign.

another scenic view of the park

another scenic view of the park

The sign for Grizzly Falls is obvious on the way in, but I missed it on the way out. I stopped at Boyden Cave and watched as people came off the trail. It was roped off for the evening, but when I saw the ranger or guide I asked if I could walk over and take some pictures of the river from the mountain side – she said yes, and said I should come back when they’re open so I can see the inside of the caverns too.

There was a guy repainting a bridge. I apologized when I realized he had waited for the last group so that he could finish and go home. I was able to step around and get some pictures. The trail began to get steep, so I hoofed it up some more, and then returned to an empty parking lot. I thought about taking a different route to see more of the park on my way towards Fresno where I would spend the night, but couldn’t find a way through.

beautiful sunset leaving the park

beautiful sunset leaving the park

I turned when I saw the sign for Hume Lake. It had pictures of camping, picnicking, gas, and phone available. It is a huge resort. There are cabins for a summer camp, a church camp, a visitors lodge, and cabins that appeared to be homes. I drove by the gas station and the two pools and then took a tour of the cabins – there are so many. I got out and walked up some big stone steps to this open field that was lined with cabins in the trees.

The road I turned on was supposed to continue on towards Landslide and Tenmile campgrounds, but I ended up turning around and leaving the way I came in. I would watch the sunset on my way out of the park. I didn’t want to do any night-time driving so that I wouldn’t miss a thing, but I had a full day so I can’t complain. I stopped at the market in Grant’s Grove for an egg sandwich and a drink. I noticed that the backseat now had more sandwich on it from my lunch. Note to self: don’t make almond butter sandwich when it’s so hot that it melts off your bread and onto the seat and floor.

I drive into Fresno at 9:45 pm with expectations of $100 rooms. I’m too tired to drive another hour to a campsite outside Yosemite. I pull into the Motel 6 offering a night for $40. I’m enjoying the A/C and clean skin, but it doesn’t compare to a night under the stars. Next time it’s too windy for a tent I sleep without.

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