Fog and Rocks

Posted on June 4, 2013 by TheJessicaness
fog on 94 East

fog on 94 East

My last trip was too short, so I decided to take another one. Dan, the best neighbor someone could ask for, volunteered to watch the dogs. I had planned on taking them with me, and though I missed them once or twice, it was so nice to only have to worry about myself for a while. It also made it easier while staying with others who had pets or small children and cheaper at hotels.

I like to pack (or prepare) for three days before a trip…or at least that’s what ends up happening. I was ready to leave at 5:00pm yesterday, but that would’ve left me driving in the dark, so I had a burrito and beer with my neighbor and then went to the theater to watch Now You See Me with a friend. I had trouble sleeping and was on the road as soon as the sun was supposed to be on the horizon (SoCal’s fog/smog mornings). I was hoping to enjoy some sunshine without traffic.

I plan on taking all the time I want (up to a month) to see everything, but quickly remember that it’s impossible to see it all and that is why I am constantly looking (and traveling new roads and planning different destinations). Usually we set out to see one place or a list of things and that mindset can block our eyes from other sights in the area and along the way because we are set on having time for this one activity.

boney beach at Salton Sea

I’m enjoying the no-set-plans travel. Last time it was a turn around date and this time it was a turn around location – Oak Harbor, WA with a possible drive into Canada and/or flight into Alaska. I made a list of a few suggestions of things to see and roads to take, but leave it to chance that things will change in the moment and that I’m willing to take a detour based on someone’s suggestion or lack of follow through.

I’m off to a healthy start in the morning with two donuts from 7-11. I’m driving by a lake and thinking about how great it would be to put my feet in the water. I turn on the next road and park in front of a lady’s house with little barking dogs and make my way to the Salton Sea. It’s a good thing I put my shoes on (in case the rocks were hot) because the beach is made up of fish skeletons that have died from the salinity of the largest lake in California (by area).

With that idea gone, I take some pictures of the birds (mostly pelicans) before making my way into the rocky desert that is Joshua Tree National Park. I drive through Mecca, known by me, for their delicious grapes. I just expected to see some trees, the same ones I have seen before on the road side with some dusty shrubs nearby, but what I got was a meeting of the deserts – Mojave and Colorado – offering a glimpse into what their climate supports.

a bunch of white Mecca grapes

There are cacti that look like caterpillars when all the blooms are shriveled and tan. In a tree is a small bunch of mistletoe (thought that was a Christmas thing) that adds a nice touch of green to its brown surroundings – and provides a major food source for the phainopepla, a black crested bird, that breeds in two habitats – desert and woodlands. There are other plants with green bean, mini-dudhi, and pea-shaped fruits.

Up the road, for the first time and not the last, is a person with a vest on and a stop sign in hand. I’m in no hurry, so I can appreciate the ‘up to 30 minute delay’ to stop and see the scenery. I talk with the construction guy about work and travel; he has long days in the heat now and looks forward to returning home further north. There is a couple visiting from the Netherlands and they are just as excited to experience everything that’s offered.

With the 13 miles of construction, we are forced to follow the pilot car past the Cholla Cactus Garden – and I know it was worth a stop, but just another reason to return. We also drive by Fried Liver Wash and I can imagine more parts would cook the longer someone is out in this heat, but it’s where I want to be. Next stop, Skull Rock which seems to be laying down and peeking out of the dirt. Some climbing on his back offers some more views.

grasshopper in Joshua Tree National Park

Rock climbing is a popular activity here with the availability of some short excursions, but not something I will be doing today. I’ve got a few hikes planned. I head out to Lost Horse Mine (two miles one-way) with the expectations, because of a ranger, of being able to touch something or get a picture, stamp, or rubbing. The hike was great – lots of ups and downs, some critters, few people, new plants, and an expanded view of the landscape.

The mine is surrounded with a tall chain-link fence as some guys that arrived before felt it necessary to leave their name and take part of the experience away from the rest of us. I wanted to climb the stairs and imagine being a miner in 1850. The day only seemed to get hotter and I continued drinking my water. I had 100 ounces in my Camelbak and a gallon jug in the car waiting to be used. Down to Keys View, change out of my sweaty boots, and see the San Andreas Fault Zone in the Coachella Valley.

Also seeing the Salton Sea, smog, and Gorgonio Mountain (tallest in southern California) from this view is a family of three generations – the fourth (wife with kid) had gone home today. How neat to be able to spend time like that with family. I know it can be hard for most to make it through a holiday dinner. I have a lunch of sunflower seeds and cherries then change into my tennis shoes from my slip-ons – glad I brought three pairs.

Joshua Tree

My next hike would be the Barker Dam, a 1.3 mile loop around an area that sometimes has water. Today the dam will be holding dirt and hikers anxious to explore and see the valley from every angle. Those hikers are music majors – seven of them wanting to play in the best orchestra when they graduate and one that wants to teach. We talked for a bit near the petroglyphs and then carried the conversation back to the parking lot. They are camping for the night and I decide to leave Hidden Valley Trail for another visit.

There is an Indian Restaurant in the town of Joshua Tree that sells pizza, subs, and burger along with Indian food and salads. I wish I would’ve been hungry, but perhaps I still could’ve checked the place out for its vast selections. Caleb calls as I’m stopping to take a picture of a house near Lucerne Valley. I will stop in Barstow around 7pm for gas and make a sandwich on me and the backseat (breadcrumbs and almond butter) for dinner.

Lost Horse Mine

I make it to Red Rock Canyon State Park Ricardo Campground where I will watch the sun set and plan to spend the night. I notice the $25 fee and figure it will be worth it to lay under the stars and then walk the trails in the morning. I pull into Site 5 and get out the tent. I see three possible spots and pick the best one as the wind decides to pick up. I find large rocks to hold the tent down while I attempt to assemble it.

Then comes the hard part – trying to put aluminum tent stakes into a rock with the wind blowing. I know I need my tent secure or I risk suffocating in the night. I struggle a moment longer before hoping to find a better spot. I saw some lights on the other side of the one-way loop and as I drive over there realize I’m in an RV campground and it’s pointless to try again. I fold the tent up and get back on the road in the dark.

Not too far down is a OHV (off highway vehicle) site that I pull into. I was looking forward to stretching out, but at least I can still see the stars. I crack the windows and climb in the backseat. Now I’m more grateful that I brought a real pillow and not just my camping one. My headlamp will begin to attract some bugs, but not so many that I can’t write some notes and read a chapter before going to sleep.

students on the Barker Dam

Today’s travels would take me a distance of 450 miles in 14 hours making me average 32 miles per hour. My route: 5N, 54E, 94E, 8E, 86N, 195E, 62W, 247N, 58W, and 14N. A goal of mine is to avoid major highways when possible – the more dirt and curves the better. Highways may lead you to great places, but you are bound to miss a lot along the way. I notice I feel more stressed after driving on a highway – billboards and assholes aren’t that conducive to a vacation feel. I can understand why those that don’t like to drive prefer to fly – they go from home to holiday and back again with no in-between.

Posted in Animals, Camping, Food, Hiking, People, Places, Plants, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Lost Just In Time

Posted on May 30, 2013 by TheJessicaness
how many quail do you see?

how many quail do you see?

This morning Paul and I will make pancakes – or burn them, fold them, and double their size. I attempt to make eggs over hard and end with a scrambled mess in the pan. What I don’t scrape out will be cooked with the bacon by Charlotta. We made two batches of pancakes that are supposed to produce 10-12 and we only got four each time. Jonas cut up an apple, some bananas, and two mangoes to go with breakfast. And if that wasn’t enough there was toast to be had with butter or cream cheese and salad.

Today’s adventure would start out by turning right on Cowles Mtn. Blvd., left on Coleshill Dr., then a right on Barker Way where we park in front of one of the summit trails. On our way into the park we notice a mother quail (also the California state bird) with over six chicks – hard to count little running fuzzies that blend in with the ground that keep to the shadows and bushes in our presence.

Going up is easy, fun, and a bit sweaty. We decided to take the road up and we would take the busy trail down (or so we thought). The road soon becomes busier with people running up and down past us as we enjoy the view which is only partly blocked by smog today, but I let them know that it used to be worse here and that the state is still working on making it better yet. We take some photo and sparkling water breaks and make it to the top with a smile on our faces. Paul has chosen to hike with his sombrero and holds onto it in the wind that is cooling us off at the peak.

Charlotta, Paul, and Jonas

Charlotta, Paul, and Jonas

The park has added new signs with photos of what the closed area behind the sign is helping to preserve and restore – there are yellow flowers, quail, and rattlesnakes. There is new railings along the trail and lots of gravel (that look to Paul like water from a distance) on the path to help with erosion. On our way down we will miss our turn to go back to the car and instead head down to the main parking lot.

Lucky us though. Across the street is Cowles Mountain Coffee and they are serving just what we want – water, Sprite, a fruit smoothie, and two acai bowls – one for me and Paul. And after our order we notice the store hours – they close in seven minutes, but the barista is in no hurry to rush us out of our seats. We enjoy the cool snack after the warm 3.1 mile hike and before the 1.6 mile trek back to the car.

Paul with his acai bowl

Paul with his acai bowl

Down the boulevard and near our turn we notice a lady standing by the curb with her pot belly pig – a sight to see in the city, so of course we go over to get a closer look. Charlotta was going to pet her – don’t know the name or anything as the owner was on a serious phone call, but was able to give me permission to photograph and pet her pig – but gave it a second thought and posed for a picture instead. They asked if this was a common occurrence and I assured them it wasn’t. It was two months ago when I saw a man walking two goats at a festival – perhaps a growing trend.

They ask if we can visit Point Loma next (about 40 minutes away) and I am more than thrilled to take them. I love the history and views available from Cabrillo National Monument. I forgot my park pass at the house, but the park is still honoring the free card for military so I’m able to get us on by showing my ID – a husband in the Navy has its perks. I drive us to the main parking lot and we visit the statue first. While there we get to watch dolphins play in the surf below – I want to join them.

Cabrillo National Monument

Cabrillo National Monument

We get to watch a submarine make its way into the harbor. We had trouble at first determining what it was because of its length and apparent tiny size. On our way to the lighthouse we notice a volunteer dressed in time period gear and follow him up to the little shack that he is standing watch over. He tells us how busy his modern schedule is and we go inside to learn a little more history about the area.

We go into the Assistant Keeper’s Quarters next where there is a 3rd Order Fresnel lens on display. It is eye-catching and a powerful tool – casting its light more than 20 miles over the Pacific. We learn about the people who lived here and other lighthouses along the West Coast before heading into the lighthouse next door. In front of it is a large cistern that the residents used to retain rainwater for their daily needs. In the house we see the rooms that a family once called a home and at the top of the stairs the spot where the light used to shine. The new lighthouse is closer to the water and further from the dense fog.

Candy Corn Bugs (not official name)

Candy Corn Bugs (not official name)

We continue on past the garden and other plants and bug life on our way to the informational signs that will tell us more about the whale life that can be seen from here in the right season – no luck for us today, but the view is still spectacular and the weather great. We would’ve driven down to the tidal area, but missed the low tide that happens in the morning. The park is due to close soon so we head to the Visitor Center for some last moment views, visit the museum, use the bathroom, and buy some snacks.

We stop at the Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery on our way out. They are saddened by the amount of bodies, but also surprised because Germany has a different way of dealing with the dead masses – and not Hitler style. But they agree that the view is still great and take some pictures before we head to the store to buy ingredients for tonight’s dinner – semmelknodel. Jonas and I will start on dinner while Paul and Charlotta clean the car and fill it with gas in preparation of tomorrow’s early departure – after taking showers and making sandwiches for the road.

their van's sticker collection

their van’s sticker collection

It is fun to help and be a part of a German traditional meal – again. This one consists of dry bread, green onions, eggs, and boiled milk mixed by hand and rolled into a log. Then we wrap it in foil and then a towel with hair ties on the end to keep it together better in the pot of boiling water. Jonas tells me that once it is done we could also cut it, coat it in butter, and then bake it…but that just takes longer and we are hungry. We also make a gravy to go with it – mushrooms, milk, onions, peppers, garlic, and spices.

We made a salad (spinach, romaine, arugula) with two dressings to choose from – these Germans love their veggies! Dinner was delicious and the drink we got to go with it paired well. We all had seconds and soon the food was gone, but the drink and conversation carried us on for hours. On full bellies and tired legs we would go to bed earlier tonight than usual. Brush teeth, remove pants, grab pillow, sleep.

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The Town of Free Tequila Shots

Posted on May 29, 2013 by TheJessicaness
Charlotta, Jonas, and Paul

Charlotta, Jonas, and Paul

We get a late start this morning, but that’s ok. We made breakfast – bagels toasted by me, with eggs cooked by Charlotta, cheese unwrapped by Paul, and Jonas-made guacamole. Then we all took showers; brought sunscreen, water, passports, and cameras; and hopped in my car for the drive to the parking lot nearest the pedestrian bridge that would take us into Tijuana. It is so much fun to travel with like-minded people who enjoy walking, different cultures, and most free things.

Charlotta with her chili watermelon

Charlotta with her chili watermelon

Once over the second bridge that takes us into downtown we are bombarded by guys asking if we need a taxi ride. On the way back Paul will ask them – and it was funny to see them get annoyed, laugh, or be rude. One of the bridge vendors is selling fruit with chili powder that is popular on everything from fruit to meat to drinks so Charlotta buys a bag of watermelon for $1.00. She doesn’t like the chili and shares the bag with Jonas and I because Paul doesn’t like watermelon. On our way back we will witness the fruit guy peeing down the wall so he doesn’t lose his spot or customers – and adds to our experience.

they get straight to the point with their titles - and opinion of the quality of our movies

they get straight to the point with their titles – and opinion of the quality of our movies

We are on the hunt for postcards, margaritas, and some Mexican food to eat. Along the way we will enjoy all the attention from the shop owners trying to sell us a good deal. We see skull art, sombreros, dresses, rope swing chairs, statues, murals, jewelry,  and bags. We look around at a record store, an arcade in the back of a shop, and a tequila store with a barber shop in the back. Once inside we are offered free tequila shots while we haggle the price of whatever has caught our eye.

a great selection of hot and flavored nuts

a great selection of hot and flavored nuts

Charlotta, Paul, and I will buy carved coin necklaces from a guy with a little booth on the street. Charlotta buys a bag after many attempts to not get ripped off. So many places wanted $40 (I won’t pay over $20 in the States) and with the exchange rate that would be $504 pesos. And one shop had bags right next to each other – so one guy watched her haggle with the other shop owner and then thought he would wear her down – she walked away and finally found a good deal down the street.

Jonas looking at vinyl records

Jonas looking at vinyl records

Jonas would buy a bracelet that says Tijuana. Paul would buy a watch for a sixth of the price sold for in the States and the cheapest, most touristy sombrero the shop owner would part with. I liked the big red one with shiny silver decorations and perhaps I will return to buy it for myself. It seems worn in the right places it would seem less corny than the umbrella hat – though both serve a shade purpose only one is better at keeping you dry.

Mexican currency on a postcard

Mexican currency on a postcard

All the shopping and walking (and turning around when the streets start to become bare) was making us hungry. They got the flyer for the restaurant with the mechanical bull and wanted to give it a try so we made our way to El Torito. I’m sure I was at the same table and I saw the same waiter, but he let the new girl wait on us (with help). I ordered tamarindo margaritas for them to try – they liked. We all ordered Coronas and then two Blue Hawaiians and two Long Island Iced Teas. I didn’t like mine so I gave it to Paul.

a shopkeeper without business

a shopkeeper without business

Charlotta was given a free shot of tequila. The guy came by selling bracelets and then we had a guy trying to sell teddy bears and tattoos – we are not drunk enough! Then Paul gets a shot of absinthe – a third on the floor and table, a third on fire, and some in his mouth. We order two guacamoles with chips, some queso fundido (cheese and refried beans) with flour tortillas, and an order of carne asada nachos. We are told the bull is broken and Paul gets a $2 drink to-go that makes him happy for the price, alcohol content and ability to drink it on the street.

murals

murals

Later we will stop at a Burger King where Charlotta and Jonas will buy ice cream so that we may use the bathroom (el bano). We notice the store fronts starting to close and head for the exit (border). I’m worried about the wait time, but there is no line. We are able to walk from the official boundary outside of the Federal building and to the pedestrian bridge in 17 minutes. We are happy, full, some of us burnt, and all of us ready to play ball with Sparky when we get home.

Paul is not ready to leave yet

Paul is not ready to leave yet

Paul will take Sparky outside to play in the backyard for probably two hours while the other two write postcards, update Facebook, check on couchsurfing, and upload photos to their hard drives. Then it’s back to relaxing, eating chips, petting Piggy, and talking the night away. We talked about our prior couchsurfing experiences, recalled moments from the day, and discussed our plans for the last day before they rolled over and went to sleep.

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Die Ankunft des Deutsch Trio

Posted on May 28, 2013 by TheJessicaness
Charlotta and Paul enjoying Imperial Beach

Charlotta and Paul enjoying Imperial Beach

I get a request for my couch on Friday for a Tuesday arrival. I check my calendar and I will be good to host them until Friday at noon when I have a dentist appointment. I am under the impression that Jonas, traveling with two friends, will be three guys coming, but on Monday he signs with the names Jonas, Charlotta (a girl’s name), and Paul in an email. They will arrive Tuesday around 12:30 pm while I am walking the dogs – I figured they would. I knew it was them when I saw a red van with things on top stop and turn around to park across the street from my house.

Introductions are made – people and dogs, and the conversation flows. We walk in the house, take a seat, and talk for two hours. They are on a west coast tour of the United States after finishing up with their work visas at Lake Louise where they worked in customer service, the kitchen, and moving inventory. They skied and rode a dog sled. They already toured from New York to Miami. They have seen more of North America than most people I know that live here and they are all only 20 years old – born in 1993.

gratuitous dinner photo

gratuitous dinner photo

They stayed in a hostel in downtown San Diego last night after visiting Sunset Cliffs and climbing the stairs of the Convention Center after a drive from L.A. Our first stop will be Imperial Beach where we will walk from the jetty to the pier. On the way out the door from my house they notice a red flag on my mailbox and inquire about it. They are surprised to learn its purpose and I’m happy to be there to teach them something new.

Jonas on the playground downtown

Jonas on the playground downtown

The States are a melting pot of other languages. This makes it easier for me to understand some of their terms. Seeing my block clock on the wall from Germany they help me count to ten – ein, zwei, drei, vier, funf, sechs, sieben, acht, neun, zehn. All cultures have names for things, but I feel that the Germans have kept it simplified as my guests seem to be surprised at all the extra names we have for simple things. At the beach we will learn about the hardness of kelp and test how much body weight it takes to break open a bulb.

Paul, Charlotta, and Jonas

Paul, Charlotta, and Jonas

We get to the pier and walk to the end. I get to see the new boards that have been laid as they inquire about the cost and use of such a structure. I agree it is expensive to maintain piers (I was telling them about the one in Huntington Beach that has been rebuilt multiple times), but also fun for fishers, tourists, locals, and buskers. We walk back to the house and then I drive them down to Gaslamp Quarter where we will search for dinner.

kayakers in the harbor

kayakers in the harbor

An hour of searching and we end at Royal Thai Cuisine on 5th Ave. I order a Thai tea and drunken noodles – veggies, chili, and fried tofu. We do some more exploring while making our way to Seaport Village. We find a playground and a wall with poetry by Quincy Troupe. We get to admire the architecture, the gardens, people walking their pets, sculptures, and signs. They are surprised to learn that ‘that’s a long walk’ in American means more than a block or two – a lot of people are driving around looking for a closer parking spot while we are walking around learning and having fun – something popular in Germany along with taking the train – a frequent and mostly reliable source of transportation.

Amongst the shops they look for postcards to mail home, stickers for the van, and other souvenirs they may want. We have fun trying on sunglasses and testing everything against the UV light in the Del Sol store – this time I buy the blue plumeria earrings. We walk along the water, past the 25-foot tall bronze statue of a ‘couple‘ kissing near the USS Midway Museum, and get lost beyond the construction. We watch a man catch a fish on the rocks, see a group of kayakers go by in the water, and get passed by multitudes of people running on the sidewalk preparing for the R&R Marathon.

Fuchsia on Doric columns and trellis near train tracks

Fuchsia on Doric columns and trellis near train tracks

We make our way across the train tracks and by a pay lot where we agree the slots for bills should be larger making it faster and easier to pay the $17 flat rate. We walk back to the car parked at 8th Ave and B St. We would’ve parked elsewhere, but we noticed the hour-only parking and we needed two. We go to the store for chips and drinks and return home to stay up until after 1:30 am when Jonas passes out – only pictures were taken, and then we went to sleep too.

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A Ferry Day

Posted on May 19, 2013 by TheJessicaness
dining room at the Embassy Inn

dining room at the Embassy Inn

Victoria is great. We had plans to stay longer, but like all other good things this too ends sooner than we want…dinner turns to shit, trees into paper…but vacations remain as memories, souvenirs, and blog posts. We have our complimentary breakfast downstairs that consists of coffee, eggs, toast, and potatoes. There was also sausage and bacon or a menu to order from. We learn from the paper and people around us that this weekend is also the Highland Games and Celtic Festival – we picked a good time to visit.

cake shaped soap

cake shaped soap

We take the 17 North to Swartz Bay Terminal where we will catch the ferry to Tsawwassen – a town 30 km south of Vancouver.  For this ride, I’m given 45 minutes to explore the area before departure. We are parked in lane 4 of at least 54 lanes, but not all ferries are going to the same island. It would be great to come back and island hop with my bicycle. There is coffee, chips, and flax rolls to eat. And some jewelry, soap, and glass frogs to buy. I’m not hungry or smelly, but I do have to use their washroom facilities before returning to the car.

feryside

We are parked on the 4th deck and given two decks inside for sitting. There is a shop with chocolate, pajamas, books, makeup, and other accessories. They have a vending machine with headphones and SD cards from Best Buy, a play area for toddlers, and an arcade room. Outside are three levels for viewing – 2 on levels 5 & 6 on the sides with access to the front on level 6, and level 7 with benches from side to side. I will explore and then spend most of the ride in the front where only a few others choose to brave the wind for moments before returning to the windless indoors or to the designated smoking areas.

twoview

There is a room up front on level 5 where you can pay $12 for quiet, coffee, snacks, and a newspaper. There is a restaurant with a $17 breakfast buffet, a smaller shop with some warm/cold food options, and then a café express with coffee and sandwiches. Outside there are mountains, ocean, birds, wind, campers on the shore, houses, wildflowers, another ferry with tons of people on the deck, clouds, and waves, but no whales.

man reading right to left

man reading right to left

Two hours (1.5hr ride and 30 min of un/loading) is not long enough and soon we are back on shore, but this is good too as it’s all new. 20 minutes later and we are in the Idle Free Zone and 1,600 meters from the Canada – USA Boundary where the Peace Arch Provincial Park is. I want to get out and play with the other families, but I may get left or we would forfeit our spot in line. By 12:40 pm we are back on United States soil and stuck in tourist traffic that will last a while on Hwy 5 as visitors from overseas and up north drive to Seattle and Portland on their way to San Francisco and Yellowstone.

enjoying the view, quiet, and wind

enjoying the view, quiet, and wind

We get to the Oregon border at 5:30 pm with the help of trail-mix, gum, and a stop at Starbucks – I got a vanilla blonde roast with a shot of espresso. We arrive at Shilo Inns in Grants Pass after 9:00 pm, but no worries as their outdoor heated pool is open along with the 24-hour steam and sauna rooms. I grab a towel and my dad grabs his laptop. The sauna is first and I read that it can get up to 160-180 degrees – the same temperature that the USDA considers meat well done.

welcome

I swim a few laps before getting in the steam room – feels like I’m standing in a public shower while others wash and reminds me of the gas mask room in boot camp training. I think the timer is broken on the sauna so I turn it closer to off and get back in for a little more sweating. The heat of the room burns my nostrils and I head back to the room sooner than I planned to shower and sleep – being so relaxed it will come easy tonight. I need to look into using the sauna at a local hotel or gym when I get home.

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