Oak Harbor to Everett

Battery 248 at Ebey's Fort State Park

Battery 248 at Fort Ebey State Park

This morning is one of my earlier ones on the trip. Uncle Ed’s neighbor has a long commute and leaves on his motorcycle at 4:00 am. That woke me up, I went to the bathroom, and then out to the car for something. All that commotion woke Ed and since I thought he was up, I got up, so he got up, and then Lorraine too. Ed left at 6:00 am for work leaving Lorraine and I a few hours alone before I would leave for Everett.

Lorraine leaves the house at 8:40 am and I leave five minutes later after making sure I had everything in the car. I visit Fort Ebey State Park and walk around Battery 248 and through its dark hall. Construction started in 1942 for defense in World War II and began conversion to a state park in 1965 after years of using the property as a training facility. There was a seaplane flying near by, but I only caught glimpses of it through the fog.

I returned to Coupeville like I said I would and went straight to the Island County Historical Museum. I read all the information available outside while waiting on them to open and had time to see the Alexander Blockhouse and part of a 24-foot cross that was erected by the local Indians in honor of the ministry that taught them a new religion. Only a section is left as a renter pulled it down to use it as fence post.

nasdouc

popular apothecary item

Inside they have displays about the printing press, Penn Cove Water Festival, local places with their Indian names, arrowheads, basket weaving, telecommunications, wooly mammoth fossils, the army at Fort Casey, an apothecary, some Victorian hair work, and an 1880s Square Grand Piano that they allow you to play. But they ask that you please not sit on the stool as it’s very fragile.

It seemed like a smaller museum on the outside, but it had plenty of history to learn on the inside. And had I known that Whidbey Island is the fourth largest in the contiguous U.S. I would have expected it to have that much history, but I consider it another thing learned. This time I will take the ferry to return to the mainland. From Clinton to Mukilteo, a 15 minute transport, it’s $9.75 for my vehicle, up to 22 feet. On the return trip they charge for passengers. The ferry leaves every 30 minutes if both are running.

At my 11:30 departure I call Grama’s number, the one she gave me after I lost my phone, and say hi to Dan. She gave me her work number and he will give me her personal one. I call just in time. Her and Amanda were about to leave for lunch, but agree they can wait another 15 minutes for me to cross the water, another 17 minutes for me to drive to her house, and then another five minutes to Gyro House where we will eat.

Mukilteo Lighthouse

Mukilteo Lighthouse

I order the falafel sandwich, we all get a bottle of water, and Grama suggests I get some baklava. The sandwich is yummy, but I’m learning that the only baklava I like is served at Saba’s with some flame action and a loud ‘Opa!’ After lunch we need to do some dinner shopping since there is now a non-meat eater in the house. Grama was definitely more excited about dinner than I was – she found the best corn she’s had in 40 years.

I was still happy to be a part of the process. It’s been over 12 years since the three of us have spent time together like this. Grama will make the cabbage noodles and Amanda and I will shuck corn for the steamer. While Amanda is on a conference call, Grama and I will make a no-bake strawberry shortcake. We tried melting the chocolate in a plastic bag and got it right on our second try.

Scott will get home in time to change for dinner and it’s his misfortune that he went upstairs immediately after dinner to escape the estrogen also missing out on dessert – no complaints from the girls downstairs including Bella, my aunt’s dog as Frankie went upstairs to join the guys hiding party – we can’t all be social. In a room full of women that love to cook we decide to watch Julie & Julia – a cute tale of Julie Powell cooking all 524 of Julia Childs recipes in one year – how inspiring!

Grama stirring the cabbage noodles

Grama stirring the cabbage noodles

Amanda doesn’t like the taste of most regular beers whether stout, hoppy, or full of wheat. Lucky for her she lives near McMenamins Mill Creek Brewery that serves a ruby ale that tastes like raspberry juice. She suggests we go after the movie and I agree. I order one of their IPAs and we sit sipping our beers for the next hour and a half over conversation. Now I know how my mom felt when she could finally talk to her older sisters about adult things; it changes the dynamics of a relationship.

It’s good to be getting to know family members better. It feels later than it is getting home at midnight knowing two people are upstairs sleeping. Grama is in the guest room so I will get the plug-in air mattress downstairs. Grama warned me that she will be up at 5:00 am and I told her to have no worries as I will either be up too or sleep through it. Amanda turns off the lights, sets the alarm, and says goodnight – in hopes that my sleep will match the pleasantness of the day.

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Some Days

found the cloud factory

found the cloud factory

Some days Uncle Ed feels like making blueberry pancakes and riding his Harley. I just happened to be visiting on one of them. For this ride I get a different helmet with a wireless mic and a lighter jacket – we are expecting warmer weather. We were going to take the 20 by Mt. Baker towards North Cascades National Park, but saw rain and felt some sprinkles so we changed course and went by the Canadian border instead.

We would visit Polnell Point and ride down West Beach Rd and Scenic Heights Rd on Whidbey Island. Then head to the mainland to ride through downtown Bellingham, out to Semiahmoo Park that is almost swimming distance from Blaine Marina Park – with a bridge there would be a complete route around Drayton Harbor. Instead we drive back around so that I can see four different border crossings.

There is Peace Arch Crossing that I went through in May, Pacific Hwy Crossing near the Smugglers Inn B&B, and Aldergrove located 12 miles east off of H Street Rd. I can see the border and want to just hop over and jump back, but that’s illegal. It just seems so easy without a river in the way. Good thing I’m on the back of a bike with a law abiding citizen so there will be no activities for me to have to blog about from jail later.

bumper sticker

bumper sticker

Thirteen more miles to Sumas – the fourth border crossing, and all located within 26 miles of each other. One day I will have to cross them all and visit their parks, but today we are heading south on the 9 until we get to Sedro Woolley. There will be some dead-end roads and other roads we’re not allowed on – this just adds to the adventure of the trip. I never feel lost on the back of a motorcycle when Uncle Ed is driving.

After Sedro Woolley, and a much needed bathroom break, we will take the 20 back to the island. I learned that having to go pee on the back of a bike can be made much worse going over bumps and around turns. I now know to go when the chance presents itself – whether I feel the need or not. And I’m guessing trying to go in all that gear in the bushes would have proved messy – and it’s illegal.

Dinner would be in the oven upon our return. Lorraine was getting hungry and timed it perfectly. I was able to get changed and have two slices of veggie pizza with some kale salad and some donut. Then I would choose to watch Chocolat (Johnny Depp film I hadn’t seen). We were going to watch Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street (another Depp film I hadn’t seen) that came out in 2007, but they had one of the earlier adaptions and I’ve seen one of them.

view into the bay

view into the bay

I was hoping Johnny would play a bigger role, but I really liked the film for the perspective it showed on the introduction of chocolate to society and the ability it had to disrupt a town’s set ways with its taste and calming factors. It might not be accurate, but history tells me that cacao beans and their byproducts used to be a delicacy of the rich, so it’s nice to see the working man enjoying a new treat and making it more than just a drink.

All this talk of chocolate cake, candies, and cocoa would put me in the mood for something warm myself. Lorraine offers me three flavors of cocoa and I choose the chocolate orange. I would’ve made it myself, but she’s already seen the film, and it’s getting late so she lets me enjoy the film and later the warm cup in my hand. As great as I thought aunts were, I think them being grandmas too adds an extra dose of kindness – I’m more than grateful.

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Roadtrip to Leavenworth

hydro turbine used in Plant Two from 1910-28

hydro turbine used in Plant Two from 1910-28

…the city in Washington state, not the penitentiary in Kansas. Coffee is a morning ritual at Uncle Ed’s house and it won’t be until I return to foggy mornings in San Diego that I realize the power of the sun in waking me up, but the hot coffee is still good for those first chilly hours after dawn. We take some coffee to go and drive to Mr. T’s Family Café in Mt. Vernon for breakfast. I get some oatmeal with raisins and a biscuit that I will cut into four layers and take half my meal in a box for later.

Our next stop is Snoqualmie Falls. I was expecting a difficult hike or at least a more forested walk, but these falls are easily accessed by a short paved trail. There is a trail available that will take visitors from the upper park to the lower one for another view of the falls – currently closed. There’s a lot of power in the water coming from this river and hydroelectric companies have taken advantage of it since the 1890s.

Snoqualmie Falls - 269 ft.

Snoqualmie Falls – 269 ft.

In the guest shop they have books about hiking, animals, and places to see in Washington. They have smoked salmon, motley sweaters, and large stickers. They have keychains, bookmarks, and jam. And they have cups, candy, and pancake mix. They want you to take something home to remember them by, to feel a part of history in the present day. I’m overwhelmed by the selection and almost get a sweater, but soon we are outta there.

Lupine in Roslyn

Lupine in Roslyn

We drive to the town of Roslyn and visit Carek’s Meat Market. The lady selling sausage and jerky doesn’t know how I could be happy not eating meat – for me, I’m happier. On to the oldest mining townsite in the state – Liberty. The café is closed, but there are still some nice houses in a beautiful setting for us to stare at. Then we stop in Peshastin at the Smallwood’s Harvest mercantile that sells bags, jars, bottles, and tubs of things to eat or cook with. They have some things for the kitchen and garden and a petting zoo too.

Mercantile

Smallwood’s Harvest Mercantile

It’s 2:30 in the afternoon and we can be found in the town of Leavenworth – a Bavarian themed place in the mountains of Washington. They have shops dedicated to chocolate, Christmas, and cheese. There are shops for bacon, shirts, and hot sauce. There are knickknacks, nutcrackers, and a hat store; a boutique, bakery, and book shop. There is jewelry, odd signs, and compressed socks, undies, and towels. There is also a shop for olive oil, garden art, and shiny dresses.

Peace Elf with Piggy

Peace Elf with Piggy

When we are all shopped out it’s time to begin the hunt for dinner. We studied the menus outside for a while and finally decided to go upstairs so that I could try some ice wine. Well, they weren’t going to start serving dinner for another hour and only sell wine by the bottle. We quickly changed our minds and went downstairs to Andreas Keller where I ate $12 mac-n-cheese aka kasespaetzle – delicious and enough to take some home.

I finished reading Wild on the way home. I know I should’ve enjoyed more of the view, but it’s not the same from the backseat – and it’s an old habit that happens to be better than others I used to have. I see plenty of mountains with water and trees and I want to get out and touch them with my hands, feet, and eyeballs, but Leavenworth is at least a three-hour drive from Oak Harbor and we didn’t bring any flashlights.

extremely hot sauce

extremely hot sauce

We stop at Baskin Robbins, two miles from the house, and I get a scoop of raspberry nut and almond mocha in a cake cone; they get their scoops in bowls. I feel like a kid again. It’s been a while since someone (my dad) has bought me ice cream from a shop – husbands don’t count in this case. Tonight’s movie will be Parker – Statham gets screwed in a deal and works with J-Lo to get even. Email Caleb, Skype Dad, Facebook friends, sleep.

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A Tour of Whidbey Island

breakfast made by Uncle Ed

breakfast made by Uncle Ed

I used to be stationed on the USS Whidbey Island LSD-41 – a ship ported in Virginia Beach not to be confused with the island I heard wonderful things about – weather, tides, whales, and eventually some of my husband’s family; so I have wanted to visit here since 2005. I’ve driven through the state before and even been to Seattle, but this trip was planned with Oak Harbor as my turn around destination with a few days for exploring.

Up at 5:30 and Ed doesn’t feel like running the coffee pot so we boil some water and have some instant coffee. Then he gets out some potatoes, tomatillos, red and yellow bell peppers, some onion, and eggs to make breakfast. We will have fresh Rainier cherries on the side. I feel spoiled being cooked for – restaurants aren’t personal, and I haven’t cooked much since Caleb left – some quinoa and veggie burgers.

windmill at Oak Harbor Beach Park

windmill at Oak Harbor Beach Park with local flowers

We drop Lorraine off at the optometrist office while we run by Napa Auto Parts for a timing belt and gear oil for the Honda; and Albertsons for kale, eggs, and other ingredients. We make it back before she is done getting her eyes dilated, so I have some fun in the office trying on different glasses. Then we drive down to the Beach Park to enjoy the windmill, dock, flowers, statues, bridge, driftwood, and nice weather.

Uncle Ed on a dolphin

Uncle Ed on a dolphin

Then I get a tour of Oak Harbor. It doesn’t take long, but I get to see the American Legion where they met – the one next to the police department and city hall. Then it’s back to the house to get changed into safe and warm motorcycle gear that has me feeling like the kid from A Christmas Story. I have on a warm layer and a bright armor layer with chaps and a heavy helmet with a built-in mic so that we can hear each other easily without yelling.

me and Aunt Lorraine kissing a seal

me and Aunt Lorraine kissing a seal – photo by Uncle Ed

I’m also wearing boots, a do-rag, and Lorraine’s gloves that are a bit small. I thank her for letting me borrow all this, she takes some pictures, gives my camera back, and we’re on the road via a red Honda Gold Wing. We go by barns, fields, and water – we’re surrounded by it. We go uphill, downhill, and around sharp turns as Ed tells me this is the same route used for the Tour de Whidbey – a fundraising bike ride for the General Hospital.

me on the Gold Wing - photo by Aunt Lorraine

me on the Gold Wing – photo by Aunt Lorraine

We visit sandy spits, skinny streets, and steep stairs. We stop for the view at the top of Mount Erie and to visit one of the 14 known locations of love padlocks in the U.S. From up here we can see Whidbey NAS, Pass Lake, Cornet Bay, Lake Campbell, Skagit Bay and Island, and islands Hope and Goat. We will continue to explore the north of the island for another hour before finding our way to Deception Pass.

panorama view from Mount Erie

panorama view from Mount Erie

Ed will drop me off on the north end on the inland side and meet me at the south end on the ocean side. I played tourist in full gear with helmet on and learned that this outfit is heavier than it feels to walk in than just sitting down, but a little sweat never hurt anyone – unless they were allergic or it attracted killer bees – maybe then. I got to see Deception Island and people playing on North Beach with driftwood which varies from the other side covered in rocks and gorse.

me on the edge of Mount Erie - photo by Uncle Ed

me on the edge of Mount Erie – photo by Uncle Ed

We drive by the base and up to a park nearby so that Ed can point out where he works without having to deal with the hassle of base. I completely understand – and he’s just a contractor. The navy can have that affect on people even within vicinity of base. Then it’s time to go home for lunch. We will have three cheeses and me two cracker types and Ed some deli meats with a side of mixed nuts and a glass of water.

Deception Pass

Deception Pass

Our next destination is an hour away in Langley – Whidbey Island is the fourth largest in the contiguous U.S. We drive down to the Chocolate Flower Farm, open daily from 10-5p, to realize that we should’ve called first because they’re closed. No worries though as this brings us to the southern part of my island tour. We stop at Useless Bay Coffee for some caffeine – a small coffee is eight ounces not the 12 I’m used to at Starbucks.

We drive to Fort Casey State Park to see the lighthouse, batteries, and the view. Then we go to Ebey’s Landing NHR to see the prosperous prairie farm, the cemetery with unique headstones, and a blockhouse originally built to be a cabin in 1855. More blockhouses were built by Whidbey settlers to protect themselves from the knives, arrows, and small guns of the Kake Indians. The Davis blockhouse was restored 66 and 86 years after completion.

me in front of the Fort Casey Lighthouse - photo by Uncle Ed

me in front of the Fort Casey Lighthouse – photo by Uncle Ed

We conclude our tour with a drive through Coupeville. I make a mental note to return – there is a bakery – Knead and Feed, some cute shops, a museum, and a wharf on the end of the dock. Back at home, I will watch the steaming of the spaghetti squash and the warming of the sauce and cheese bread. Lorraine made the kale salad while we were on the bike and had a small donut, so Ed and I will split a large fritter for dessert.

Ed and Lorraine are subscribed to Netflix giving me a large selection of classics to choose from in their DVD collection and two new ones that they receive in the mail. Tonight’s choice is Gangster Squad where Sean Penn plays an angry mob boss that gets his business destroyed by a secret crew of police. Either too early to read and write or not enough movies in my system I decide to watch Monsters VS Aliens. Not one to give spoilers I will just tell you this: the big girl kicks butt.

David Blockhouse

Davis Blockhouse

Three and a half hours later of watching movies and it’s later than I realize. I Skype my dad after 11:30 pm – he’s where I get my night owl tendencies from. He has heard that I will be visiting my Grama and Aunt Amanda soon and he’s correct. I texted them to let them know that they are the next people on my to-visit list. Technically, I could’ve stopped there first, my aunt’s house being further south, but was able to catch Ed on his days off.

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Boring Spicy Ass Ticket

mountain of southern Oregon

mountain of southern Oregon

I wouldn’t mind waking up next to a mountain range for a couple of years – not that trees and city roads don’t have something to offer. And though I’ve lived at the ‘beach’ for nine years, I have yet to live close enough to hear the waves on shore and the seagulls squawk. I will drive past seven mountains on the way to my morning oil change at Oil Can Henry’s In Redmond where Bill will give me the local paper to read in the comfort of my car. There is a screen with three angles so I can watch them check my fluids, tires, and battery.

After a windshield wash and my signature I’m free to go as they open the bay door – it was also keeping in the last of the heat, but as they build a sweat the cool temperature will be refreshing. It will be another 27 miles before I decide to stop for gas – and the one time I get a photogenic gas station attendant the lighting doesn’t work for the picture, but I’d like to thank Matthew of Madras for the spirit and friendly conversation anyways.

With my car feeling full and fresh in the engine, and covered with death and dirt on the outside, and crumbs and leaves on the inside I make my way into Boring. I try to look bored or feel that way, but it seems this towns name is an oxymoron – which seems to be a running trend here in the Pacific Northwest. I have to agree that their tactics work at keeping tourists away – unless you’re in Portland or Seattle.

Boring garden

Boring garden

I first got introduced to Dave’s Killer Bread in San Diego during the Earth Fair in April, so it was neat to be able to go by its Bread-Quarters, but only to find out that tours are no longer available as some of their clients find it bad for health code reasons. I can still buy their fresh and frozen bread, shirts and hoodies, and spreads from other local companies. I get a loaf of 21 Whole Grains and then some sesame-cranberry peanut butter and vanilla-espresso almond butter from Wild Friends.

Both butter flavors are tasty, but the peanut butter proves to have too much oil in it and doesn’t travel well. It will leak in my cooler (thank goodness for the extra napkins in there) and I will still have to pour some oil out when I get home. I’m thinking of going back to big name peanut butters while I travel – as the stir-well variety have a tendency to end up with oil in my cooler and butter all over my backseat when trying to prepare lunch.

Across the street just so happens to be another bakery – Bob’s Red Mill. Some of you might have seen his products on a small shelf in your local grocer – seeds, flours, grains, beans, and oats. I’ve maybe seen ten varieties when I go to the store, so I was completely overwhelmed to walk into a store/bakery/restaurant dedicated just to him and his products. I bought some vegan baked goods after looking at the kids art, the history, the kitchen tools, the spice rack, and sweetener aisle. I had another bakery to get to.

beans at Bob's Red Mill

beans at Bob’s Red Mill

Eight miles away on the other side of the Willamette River was my main reason for stopping in Portland – Voodoo Donuts. My dad recommended it for their Bacon Maple Bar that has also been made into a beer by Rogue Ales also local to Oregon, but I will be having neither today. I thought I got lucky by finding parking within sight of the line outside the door. I was able to join at the end of the line marker and 25 minutes later would be having my VD put into a pink box.

I didn’t know which donut to get and didn’t want to hold up the line when I got there, so I pulled a napkin out of my purse and began to make a list. I ended up with a dozen. Some are regular donuts with cool names and others have chocolate and peanut butter on them – some of my favorite food groups. Lots of sexualness in this place – talk of balls, and holes, and VD. They have undies for sale and a donut named Triple Chocolate Penetration.

While waiting in line I had asked the guys in front of me if there was anything else nearby worth waiting for. They recommended a coffee shop and when I came out with my big pink box full they asked if I would like to join them. I told them to let me check the meter for my car first and quickly changed my mind. I had paid for 38 minutes. I didn’t get a ticket for going over time or not posting it in my curbside window, but for lack of activity.

line for Voodoo Donuts

line for Voodoo Donuts

The parking ticket was $90 and upsetting – I can’t read parking signs. I need to learn my lesson already and just use garages in large cities – there are less confusing multitudes of signs to read that way. The guys go on without me and another guy approaches asking if I’ve got a rolling paper – better to ask for what you want than just the money for it. I contemplate smoking with this guy, but my time in Portland for this visit is over.

I eat a few donuts while I dwell in my disappointment and some of them are too sweet – I still prefer a lightly frosted maple bar over any frosted and sprinkled donut. I pass a street of food carts and wish that I had read the parking sign better so that I could be out exploring all the city has to offer. I had planned on spending the day here, but when traveling on a budget (as I always do) I am forced to only allow myself to spend so much in one place.

Crossing the state line into Washington I text Uncle Ed to let him know I will be arriving tonight and he warns me of Seattle traffic. Well, I got extremely lucky. Google maps says it takes 4 hours and 23 minutes and according to my info it took me 4 hours and 18 minutes. I was worried for a minute when I saw the electric speed limit sign change to 30mph. Traffic varies so much and some cities use wait times, but Seattle lets you know by speed.

menu for Voodoo Donuts

menu for Voodoo Donuts

I would’ve been able to save some time and distance had I taken the ferry from Mukilteo, but I didn’t know it’s schedule (every 30 minutes) and didn’t feel like driving there to find out. I took Exit 226 to detour around the bridge on the 5 that had been broken down by a semi truck recently (seeing it in the news I thought it was a historical event – seems some things need more maintenance and repair). I could’ve taken a more scenic detour – some small roads near the coast, but felt done with driving for the day.

Along the way I would see two signs that made me giggle. The first one: seat belts must be worn day and night – as if someone thought the power of the moon would save them. The second: a pet adoption agency mentioned as a tourist attraction – some people go to visit mickey mouse and now they can buy his brother. Ed and Lorraine, his wife of 25 years, don’t let my arrival mess with dinner. I get a water and a seat and conversation. I declined any salad due to the recently large consumption of donuts I participated in.

Tonight’s festivities would include a tour of the house: comfy chairs in living room, newly remodeled kitchen, room where I will be sleeping, craft room, bathroom, and garage with motorcycles! Outside: birds at their feeders and a random cat that doesn’t belong. I ask to play Cribbage since it has been a month since I last played. My memory doesn’t fail me too much and since I won the first game I’m left on my own for the second – I lose.

Seattle traffic on a good day

Seattle traffic on a good day

Later, Ed will play the guitar for me and then Lorraine will present me with gifts. I receive a birdhouse wind chime that I get to paint myself, a set of green pillowcases with ice cream sundaes on them, and a white knitted hat (by Lorraine) that fits. Ed doesn’t have to work tomorrow which means I get to go for a motorcycle ride, but he’s still on a schedule of getting up at or before 5:30 am which regulates bed time – which means read then sleep.

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