Blue Buffalo Backyard

table in The Book Exchange

table in The Book Exchange

I woke up at 7:30 to Sparky in my face. The rest of the house woke up at 9am and we picked up Robert on our way to Paul’s Pancake Parlor. We went to The Book Exchange next door while we waited the thirty minutes for two booths to hold the seven of us at 11:20. I ordered blueberry sourdough pancakes – a delicious first and had some of Caleb’s biscuit with gravy on it, even though there was visible meat chunks. Our waitress, Becky, didn’t have a sense of humor and had a sloppy pouring arm – spilling coffee and water.

hanging out in the front yard

hanging out in the front yard

Caleb and I sat with Grandpa and the other four sat behind us in the corner booth. Somehow Robert managed to get me to put pepper in my water – enough to see but not taste – and I drank it. I used to have more than that in my meal competitions in Waffle House while I was still in Pensacola or back home with siblings mixing things out of the fridge or classmates creating things from our lunch trays. It made the meal interesting. Jessi took the girls to the car to get them situated while we stuck behind to pay the bill and then drop Robert off at home.

Sage, Harry, and Sammi in the backyard

Lily, Harry, and Sammi in the backyard

We came back to the house after breakfast to let the dogs out and let the girls change into hiking clothes from the pajamas Lyra is wearing and the ballerina outfit Sammi has on. We’re standing in the yard watching the girls climb a tree and I see a spider descend in front of Jessi. I say, “You might want to back up a bit”, but it’s too late. The arachnid is attached to her somehow. I say, “It’s on you!” and she jumps back, knocks her glasses off, and then goes inside to change.

view of the disc golf course

view of the disc golf course

All the tree climbing and excitement has worked up the girls’ appetite and they will munch on graham crackers while I go with Jessi to get school books. When we get to the bookstore they’re closed, so she takes me from the fancy and professional looking buildings to the 70s style elementary school turned, used to be technical college, into university. While Jessi talks to the man behind the counter I see a box of Screen Cleanin’ Mist: “Public restroom seats are 50 times cleaner than most laptops.”

Sammi at the park

Sammi at the park

Sammi’s friend Lily came over while we were gone. Jessi and Jake like Sammi’s quieter friends. The girls find Harry, the orange cat, in the backyard and begin pouring dirt on his belly – the one I’m sure he recently spent hours licking clean. He puts up with a lot around here and being the smallest you are always the most susceptible to either being picked on or left out as any youngest sibling can attest to, but cats can’t eventually become the more muscular or taller of the bunch – just fatter or faster.

sisters playing at the park

sisters playing at the park

We drive to Lolo where there is a buffalo ranch nearby to show the girls how close bison can live to the city, but their usual location is flooded, so Jessi and Caleb stand near the railing staring off into the distance as if they were just selected for The Hunger Games before deciding that we can come back and look some more after our hike at the East Area of Blue Mountain. Jake brought his bag of frisbees and the guys have fun throwing them for the girls through an official course – through trees and over hills – practice and play at the same time.

making our way through the course

making our way through the course

We go one way and then another and have to turn around when we almost interfere with another game. We skipped one basket on accident and played through another quickly while a family was in the ditch nearby looking for their frisbees. We had to keep the girls from grabbing ones that weren’t theirs. Having pink and purple ones to look for made it easier to separate from the greens, blues, and oranges.

Lyra getting her frisbee

Lyra getting her frisbee

Lyra starts to get tired, so Jessi carries her on our search for the car. We find a parking lot with a map, and then Caleb will take turns carrying the girls as we cross the street again, climb up an embankment or two, and find our way back to the car. We went back by the Bitterroot Bison Co. and found them in the far back – a large herd of at least 50 with a few calves, but all of them future robes, skulls, and meat.

Jessi and Lyra at the park

Jessi and Lyra at the park

 

We’re ready to go, but Sammi wants to go into detail about something with Caleb. I get in the car and honk and what we all think is funny only upsets the little talker, but it gets my husband in the passenger seat and lets Lyra fall asleep so we can go home and prepare dinner. I watched more of Frozen with Sammi and Jake, while Lyra napped, waiting on Jessi and Caleb to go to the store and then pick up Robert.

dinner in the backyard

dinner in the backyard

We have pizza – one with cheese and one with spinach and artichoke, and the girls can make their own pizza – meaning putting the sauce, cheese, and pepperoni on it to their liking. We also have a Greek salad, and I will try a Flathead cherry ale from Glacier Brewing Co., to go with our picnic in the backyard. All the people sit on the blanket while the dogs sit in the grass with their noses very close to the girls in high hopes.

cookie monster!

cookie monster!

We come inside and as the chocolate chip cookies bake Sammi feels that the dogs deserve dessert too, so we hand her some of their peanut butter treats and she shouts out commands. Lyra has her cookies with milk and hilarity. The adults eat ours while telling funny stories about family members, old friends, coworkers, and strangers. I think the adults get tired before the kids and I’m definitely ready for a nap even though we got more sleep last night than we have for a week of the trip.

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Enter State, Exit Province

Good Morning, Nanton!

Good Morning, Nanton!

I woke an hour before the alarm went off and we got gas at 4:30 before getting on the 2 South that would take us to the border to wait thirty minutes until they opened at 7am. The agent asked me questions and then said, “Welcome Home.” That’s usually what I say to Caleb and he says it’s because of the Montana license plates. I tell him it’s because we’re U.S. citizens, but either way it’s nice to be welcomed.

Hello, Montana!

Hello, Montana!

We get to the east entrance of Glacier National Park, open at 7:30, but I don’t know why since most of the park is still closed for the season. We pulled in to the Mary Valley visitor center excited that we would finally drive through Going To The Sun Road, but we were shown a picture of the visitor center at Logan Pass and told the earliest the road would open would be at the end of June.

Greetings, Glacier National Park!

Greetings, Glacier National Park!

 

Outside of the park we stop by the river so that Caleb can get the dogs two gallons of glacial water and give his hands some shock therapy. Piggy and I stand in the grass while Sparky climbs on the rocks to supervise. We drive farther south to another park entrance, Two Medicine, and hike half in mud, half snow on the Running Eagle Falls Nature Trail until Caleb slips and I almost fall from laughing. The falls are named after the only Pikuni woman to have a successful vision and spend her 30 years of life being an inspiration.

Thanks, trees!

Thanks, trees!

We drive to the end of the road where there is a watercraft rental shack, a picnic table, and a small floating dock in front of Two Medicine Lake with Rising Wolf Mountain, among others, staring down at us. We are enjoying the peace while two guys are taking pictures with their lens the size of a forearm when this couple shows up and starts breaking sheets of ice on the lake by bouncing on the dock – also causing enough noise to scare away any animals that may have been in the vicinity.

Howdy

Regards, Mt. Rockwell!

This doesn’t stop us from still looking – and there’s something appealing about following old footsteps through the snow and over patches of water, spots of mud, and piles of broken branches. We could get dirty or break something on us – it’s a thrill, and right now we are the only ones willing to go, so it helps separate us from the racket. I tell Caleb we will turn around soon, but feel like I’m being pulled deeper into the woods – until I slip on ice – then I’m ready to go.

two muddy goblins sitting in a tub

Howdy, mud goblins!

Before the Montana Highway 49 intersects with the U.S. Highway 2 there is a small town known as East Glacier Park where the World’s Largest Spoon, Big Martha, resides beside The Spiral Spoon that makes wooden replicas. They weren’t open, but Brownie’s Grocery and HI Hostel were so we went in there for drinks. I asked for a coffee, but got something else – like asking for lettuce and getting a Caesar salad. I’ll drink it later as I drag myself away from the case displaying all the fresh baked items.

Good Afternoon

Good Afternoon, Sammi and Lyra!

After that we headed toward Kalispell through mountains that leak liquid beauty. One is close enough to the road that you can park and jump in, but I wouldn’t. The waterfall is tall, but is made of stone stairs that splash onto a rocky floor – beautiful to look at and touch, but dangerous to interact with otherwise. Then we come to the small town of Pablo where we are graced with the sight of their pedestrian bridge completed in 2011 to protect people on foot from the traffic of Highway 93 that was reconstructed into four lanes.

Sammi's way of sitting

Pleased to meet you, Sammi!

Then it was south to Missoula, down curvy roads and under animal overpasses, where we would get to his dad’s house at 2. We talked for a bit and then Caleb told his sister we made it to town and we all went to her house to watch the girls make themselves into mud goblins. They got hosed off in the yard before getting showers. Sage, one of Sammi’s friends from school shows up and they are playing in the backyard when I overhear Sage telling Sammi (who is acting like Sparky), “Sparky sit or I’ll give you a treat.”

Farewell, un-cairned stump!

Farewell, un-cairned stump!

I went in the house snickering to myself while I told the others what I had heard. Sammi’s parents decided play time was over and it was time for Sage to go home (she just showed up at the door) so that we could get out of the house. We went hiking at Crazy Canyon – a nice forest walk close to the house – and no reference to the hikers. We smell the sweet sap of the ponderosa pine and the girls build cairns. Grandpa sits down to rest while we go to the trail intersection and turn around. We pick him up and some flowers from the trail on the way back.

Hi, self!

Hi, self!

At home, Jake and Caleb go to the grocery store where Caleb learns how expensive fish is in a land-locked state and remembers how pricey meat is in general. Meanwhile, the girls have a tea party with Jessi, Sparky plays ball, Piggy takes a nap, and Robert and I talk. Jake makes fruit skewers (some with shrimp), with grilled peppers, asparagus, corn, and hotdogs for the girls.

Evening, tea time!

Evening, tea time!

We eat and watch part of Frozen and then take Robert home, talk for an hour, and pick some lilac from his tree to make the car smell nice. Back at Jessi’s we are greeted by her, Sammi, and the dogs before brushing our teeth and watching our cute dogs fall asleep in the chair in the room – enjoying the warmth and quiet after a long and loud day.

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All About Alberta

PGR - Patriot Guard Riders

PGR – Patriot Guard Riders

We loaded the car with bags, our pockets and hands with muffins, a bagel, a yogurt, and some juice and coffee from the breakfast bar. We backtrack some to see the Kiskatinaw Curved Wooden Bridge, but before we take our turn we stop at a campsite, with lodges and RVs, to look at the sand carvings left unattended and alone to handle the weather by themselves. There are images of bears, bulls, a setting sun, and a maple leaf with initials PGR for the Patriot Guard Riders.

A few miles down the road is the bridge built in 1942. Though many were built for military use during World War II, this is the only one still in use. It curves nine degrees along its 534 foot length and took nine months to build. A new road was built in 1978 to bypass the bridge when oil and gas trucks exceeded its 25-tonne capacity. I love when history and modernisation can work together to show where we’ve been and where we’re going.

Kiskatinaw Curved Wooden Bridge, Arras, BC

Kiskatinaw Curved Wooden Bridge, Arras, BC

We stop in Dawson Creek, partly to get gas, and partly because of the after-school special. I get a poppy-seed muffin with a field berry yogurt – such a delicious combo, while Caleb fills the car. British Columbia is gone in the blink of an eye and it will be our last time in this great province for a while. Alberta greets us and we stop to see the giant beaver built in 2004 to attract tourists for the town of Beaverlodge, settled in 1898, and named after the temporary dwellings of the Beaver Indians.

Beaverlodge is home to Canada’s most northerly agriculture research station – meaning they grow a bunch of different things and see which methods work best and what seedlings can be mixed with others. Apparently the beaver is a distinct representative of what it means to be Canadian – hard-working, peace-loving, and haters of waste – and destroyers of trees. In 1985, one hundred beavers cut down 5,000 poplar trees, but did use them efficiently for food and home.

Beaverlodge - my shoulders come up to his toes

Beaverlodge – my shoulders come up to his toes

We pulled over to play ball with Sparky in the grass along the highway before stopping in Edmonton to get gas. There was a boat in front of us and another in the parking lot getting filled with beer as a bunch of local kids, probably my age, prepared to go out for the day. I didn’t listen to what they said as much as I did how they said it. I love the local accent. Caleb went in to prepay and the attendant said he must be from British Columbia – no, we’re from that southern country that apparently has a problem with drive-offs too.

We drive to the Royal Alberta Museum, but are too late to go inside. We can still walk around and see trees, bike racks, and stair railings wrapped in yarn – knitted designs,strings thrown on, and fluffy ornaments and pom poms. Down the stairs to a dirt path and we see runners, loving couples embraced, cyclists, walkers, and playing dogs. There’s a steep section that shows a view of the river, lots of park area, and more of the city on the other side.

Sparky's park along the AB-43 S

Sparky’s park along the AB-43 S

I want to spend more time in Edmonton. It looks like a neat place to spend three days walking around. There is so much to see on the outside of shops that I may get away with not spending too much money. The price should balance out with the exchange rate, but the eight cents that our dollar buys does nothing against the extra that they charge. While waiting at a light I try to get some pictures of the city – there’s too much and not enough time for it all, but I would recommend the trail that gives you a great view of the city center skyline before leaving town.

Driving south in the middle of Alberta and that moment comes when I think about driving north back to the Yukon and Alaska for a couple of months, but knowing I will continue to the States where bills, appointments, anxiety, surprises, and missing people await me. I want to remain in the cold weather among friendly people, good food, and poor cell reception. I want to get a pet bear and grow a garden that I only have to tend six months out of the year, but that will all have to wait as I mentally prepare for moving to the desert island of Bahrain in two weeks.

yarn tree at Royal Alberta Museum in Edmonton

yarn tree at Royal Alberta Museum in Edmonton

We stop in Calgary at Pho Phuong Vi to share a bowl of vermicelli noodles with veggies and tofu. With a hot meal in us and the time change that we realize makes it 9:30 instead of 8:30 we stop in Nanton for the night. We are two hours away from the United States border that opens at 7am with museums and two national parks in-between that won’t open until hours after. Caleb sets the alarm for 5am.

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Day Eight: Driving South

Watson Lake, Yukon - by Caleb

Watson Lake, Yukon – by Caleb

Breakfast was a banana with peanut butter, two Oreos, and two raspberry fig bars. We drove in the rain for four hours before stopping in Tetsa River for split pea soup (with ham in it) and watermelon and bread on the side, a loaf of sourdough, and a cinnamon roll. There was some interesting soap names – Polar Bear Breath and Mangy Coyote, but we ate the soup and ran back to the car in the downpour.

 

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We would stop to see young moose, mother bears with their cubs (some learning to tree climb), and lots of buffalo – laying down, walking, and eating. We saw more of their poop on the roadside and some of their muddy nests in the grass. Some were alone and others in groups. I saw a large grayish looking dog with hunting eyes and big teeth – wolf! But as we turned around he headed up into the trees and I got a blurry picture of his ass. I was hoping to see another one from the pack, but this one seemed to be on his own.

caribou

caribou

We stopped outside of Fort Nelson to throw the ball for Sparky, then headed to the gas station. I was sitting there while Caleb pumped the gas and we weren’t paying attention to the different old guys (retired with gray hair and glasses) walking by. One guy put the gas pump back up before his wife told him that wasn’t their RV, an exact look-alike is parked on the edge of the lot – a mass of confusion – and giggles follows from us.

American bison in Stikine region

American bison in Stikine region

We asked where we could get the oil changed inside and the guy pointed down the street and told us it was behind some building. We didn’t find it before we passed the information center and inquired inside. The guy was kind enough to call ahead as many places either didn’t have the time or didn’t want a traveler’s business. He found us a place that would do it – Sikanni Auto – down on the left.

Muncho Lake - by Caleb

Muncho Lake – by Caleb

We found it. A lot of businesses in Canada might not look open but that’s because it’s cold and they conserve heat, light, and energy. We walked in, met their friendly dog, and our keys were taken. Dana, the owner, came from the garage to keep us entertained while his daughter changed our oil, checked our fluid, and changed our air filter. The service was the best I’ve ever had – and that’s over ten years worth – but I wasn’t expecting what came next – the bill. We are charged over $100 while listening to stories of this guy’s killer dog that loves to run and his life’s injuries. We laughed then, but Caleb figured we could pay that much or have to wait all weekend – over a thousand miles later to come to a shop that was closed. I also consider we got a discount when a friend got half-off and left minus $1,000.

lunch at Tetsa River Services

lunch at Tetsa River Services

The rain finally cleared up and I was able to enjoy the view again – not that rain is not conducive to great visibility – the animals love it and we noticed a traffic increase – lots of trucks with RVs and our second rude Canadian traffic encounter. The first was near Fort Langley when a car pulled out when my light was green and I swerved around him. This incident would be a semi going too fast in the rain around a corner and using my lane to make-up for speed and direction. Lucky for us, I’m a better driver now than I was during puberty with a driving permit in my first car and don’t scare so easily.

near Tetsa River Provincial Park

near Tetsa River Provincial Park

Caleb will take over the driving so that I can read from ’Tis – our only paper reading material that we brought with us that hasn’t been opened in a while. He will drive us past homes and the fields across from them and a deer. We will sleep at Howard Johnson in Fort St. John tonight. We wanted to stop early and didn’t check in until 9pm. The room costs $119 – Canada is too much for our wallet and I fear looking at our credit card statement. Hopefully tomorrow we will be far enough south to sleep in the car again – 50s is doable, but 40s is too much with the little amount of warm items we brought. The first thing in the room I notice is the children’s book, “Tiny Steps Stories: and the moral is…” before feeling the working heater.

 

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We brought our things to the room and then discussed walking a trail along the railroad or relaxing in the hot tub and sauna – and the hot choice won. We changed and walked down the hall and down the stairs one floor to doors (separate for men and women) with signs on them that say ‘out of order’, but it sounds like the mens is on so we walk in and dip our toes in the cold, bubbling water. That choice is out but now we don’t want to drive across town and walk around anymore either. Seems we will spend the rest of the evening relaxing in the bed with sleeping dogs – sounds good to me after being in the car all day.

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Good Morning, Alaska!

space-time continuum on Lower Dewey Lake trail

space-time continuum on Lower Dewey Lake trail

I agreed to not set my alarm until 6am, but forgot I still had one set for 5:30 and with the time change it was 4:30. Caleb got up to turn it off for me as I was confused by the sound of it. Back to sleep until the sky is bright and Caleb has to go back to the car for our shampoo that we forgot in there last night. We look at the map and local paper and there are plenty of hikes and museums in the area, and other activities that require plenty of walking on our part, especially if we miss the sign or street to get there.

view of Skagway from the trail

view of Skagway from the trail

We walk to the Lower Dewey Lake, which we think is just a 0.7 mile trail, short and strenuous, that will take an hour, but we will learn that the hike to get to the lake is that length, and that the walk around the length requires rock climbing gear and carrying Piggy over some of the more treacherous terrain. We will later overhear a conversation about the 2.7 miles around the lake. We might have made it a half mile or so before deciding to turn around.

yes, he's wearing a coonskin cap

yes, he’s wearing a coonskin cap

We water the dogs on the return to the car and leave them there to find breakfast. We are parked at an angle behind part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Park and return to the car for my passport. We get a map and a stamp and then set out for food. We walk into a few cafes – mostly meat filled carbs and icing covered carbs and eventually settle on muffins – chocolate banana and coffee cake, before walking into a café, partly inside a jewelry store, that sells bagels covered in jalapeños and cheese. We order two, one for now and one for later, and a large lemonade that is given to us pink because it has strawberries in it – not too sweet.

Caleb hat shopping along State St.

Caleb hat shopping along State St.

We continue walking around enjoying the shops selling jewelry (there are a lot), the historical buildings, and the mountains in the distance. The day is warm – like shorts and long sleeve weather. After walking another couple of miles it’s time to try some Alaska game for lunch. I bite into a caribou burger from the BBQ Shack and Caleb tapes my reaction. It tastes disgusting – like the ones I’ve never liked and have chosen not to eat. Luckily we got two sides with our meal – macaroni salad and coleslaw – to help with the taste.

inside the Kirmse house

inside the Kirmse house

There are popcorn shops and places selling fudge and ice cream and pizza and we walk into a place selling jerky and jams. A guy is cutting up samples of reindeer and salmon and we try the peppered fish. At first all I could taste was the spice and then the fish taste set in and it wasn’t bad, but the aftertaste was less than desirable. Down the street there is an international store selling packaged foods from popular areas – Britain, South Africa, and the Philippines – that also offers internet and other services.

Caleb eating the caribou burger from the BBQ Shack

Caleb eating the caribou burger from the BBQ Shack

More walking and we are looking for food to take with us for the long drive back to the continental states. We see a place that sells pizza, but it’s the Sky IPA that keeps us there. We finish our drinks and go back to the car to get the dogs to join us on a walk to the Skagway Centennial Park and then across the footbridge to Yakutania Point and Smuggler’s Cove. I have to carry Piggy across the bridge, but she is fine the rest of the way. There is exercise equipment along the trail and I think about how great it would be to live near something like that.

Skagway Centennial Statue 1897

Skagway Centennial Statue 1897

The walk is considerably short and has a few rocks and lots of tree roots in Piggy’s way, but it’s not until we get back to town that she face plants into a building which is exactly how tired we want both dogs so they can sleep quietly in the backseat. We also saw a quilt store with some fancy patterns, a loom store with everything pre-made or we would’ve bought Caroline something and me the $375 boots if they were in our budget, and a yarn store that sells Quivit for $98 an ounce – also not in our price range, but it’s the thought that counts. They also had dog hair from the sled mushers that would’ve been neat to knit into something nice and warm.

panorama of Yakutania Point

panorama of Yakutania Point

We reach the Canada border, show the puppy papers, and I’m about to drive away when I ask if the agent has a stamp – and she does. She reaches into her pocket and uses the hood of our car for a hard surface. She stamps mine with a dry stamp (date can be seen) and re-inks for Caleb’s passport – his first one not from the United States. We stop to see the Chilkoot Cabin but can’t find it and the suspension bridge is closed when we pass it this time too. Luckily the store we passed going north that was closed is now open and we are able to buy caffeine and Kinder Surprises – something Caleb found out about in Bahrain. Caleb got a Russian cat lady and I got a polar bear.

Tagish Lake, YT

Tagish Lake, YT

We’ve seen one black bear, a couple of squirrels, and a rabbit since entering the Yukon. The weather is still warm, dropped ten degrees from Alaska’s 63, and added some wind. We will see another eight porcupines. We drive to Whitehorse to see the Log Skyscraper – a three-story apartment, a log cabin church, and a riverboat. We leave town after getting gas and head west. We will eat dinner in the car – chips and cheese, and feed the dogs on the go. We stop for some views of the mountains, lakes, and sunset.

Whitehorse, YT

Whitehorse, YT

We arrive in Watson Lake at 11:30 passing the time by having Caleb describe the pictures in 4-photos, 1-word (phone game) and seeing how quickly I could guess them. That, with the help of coffee, chocolate, a Rockstar, and sunflower seeds helped keep us awake. I’m fine when it’s bright out, but as soon as the sun goes away I’m like a bird and want to close my eyes after being awake and active for so long.

Watson Lake - by Caleb

Watson Lake – by Caleb

We stop at a hotel at the end of town and the rate is $120 if we don’t use the kitchenette or jacuzzi, plus $10 per pet. We drive down to the Dragon’s Den and pay $130 with taxes – our most expensive room yet – and it comes with one pair of slippers in the bathroom or just to wear in the room to keep your feet off the cold tile – a first for us in a hotel.

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