Cultural Tour of Bahrain, Part 1

Posted on June 18, 2014 by TheJessicaness
Ahmed Al Fateh Islamic Center - Grand Mosque

Ahmed Al Fateh Islamic Center – Grand Mosque – by Caleb

Sparky woke us up again so I shut the bedroom door. Then he woke me again by barking hours later and I opened the door. I was going to get up at 4am but I really want to get on a schedule so I went back to sleep. When my alarm went off someone had used the floor as a poop pad somewhat close to their water and food bowls. I took a shower, tried on some of my new shirts, and then took the dogs out. Caleb thinks the shirt I’m wearing looks good so I stop to take a selfie and in doing so see a bug in the grass. I squat to get a picture of it and it lands on me. I jump up photo-less.

Please switch off mobile and bleep - before entering prayer room

Please switch off mobile and bleep – before entering prayer room – by Caleb

We bought a lot of fresh fruit and I’m trying to eat it before it goes bad. I had three bananas yesterday so I thought I would try the mango in the bottom of the fridge. I put it on the cutting board, use the extra long knife we’ve been given (along with plates, bowls, and pots), and slice up one half. Sometimes I cut close enough to the skin and other times I have some left. I was cutting off the extra and tried a piece. I know I made a face but I guess Caleb didn’t see it as I handed him one to try. He told me it tasted like pear and I told him it tasted like soap and that he could have it.

mosque courtyard - by Caleb

mosque courtyard – by Caleb

Corn flakes with banana and whole milk for breakfast. I haven’t had so much dairy in a long time. I think I will cut back for a while. We get to the chapel on base 30 minutes before our scheduled departure. Caleb and I hang out upstairs until I hear more people downstairs and we go to join them. One of the guys lets Caleb know that he has to wear pants today and that he has time to go to the NEX because the buses won’t be here until 8:20. We power walk our way there, he tries on a pair, grabs a different pair, and my phone rings. I pick it up to hear my dad’s lovely voice on the other end after a long day’s work and my day is just beginning.

prayer hall - by Caleb

prayer hall – by Caleb

We talk for a moment but my phone reception isn’t great on base – the military has other priorities. Caleb changes and we power walk back. When we open the door we have to wait for people to get out of the way to let us in. Ali, the tour guide and local speaker from indoc, is taking roll. I learn that the young cheerleader-looking girls are college students doing a semester for their program that takes students worldwide to bases around the world. We walk back out the base gate to the buses that are waiting in the round-about.

rihal, a wooden book stand to keep the Qur'an off the floor

rihal, a wooden book stand to keep the Qur’an off the floor

I sit in the seat directly across from the doors and wait for all the others to pile on. There are supposed to be 50 people total and two couples brought kids – a 14-year-old girl, a toddler, and a boy with four teeth. The couple of the two babies also decided to bring a stroller, a car seat, and a hand carrier to try to fit on the small bus. The tour guide put the car seat up front with the driver, the stroller went by the stairs when the door was closed, and the carrier next to mom. A cool feature on the bus is the fold down seats in the aisle making the back four-seats wide.

a mihrab that marks the direction of the qiblah (Mecca)

a mihrab that marks the direction of the qiblah (Mecca)

Our first stop was the Ahmad Al Fateh Mosque a few blocks from the base. We took pictures outside while Ali got the people inside ready for us. The guys go in and take their shoes off. The girls go in and put on an abaya (robe) and a hijab (head scarf) to help conform with the other people while they worship (they’re here for Allah, not the female figure). I thought I had my outfit figured out before this short woman comes over, grabs pieces and tucks them here and there, and nods.

mosque chandelier

mosque chandelier

I look around and people are falling out of their traditional wear – some abayas to small and all the hijabs just tossed on. I pull on mine to try to cover the top half of my head, but now we are back in the foyer area and I don’t want to be so revealing. We walk into the main prayer room that can hold 5,000 worshippers – and usually does on Fridays. Our tour guide, Ahmed, tells us to look around and take pictures and then he will talk to us.

peeking through the decor (child guard)

peeking through the decor (child guard)

Most everyone sits down, but I’m fine with standing, and the two-year old is free to run around if it means he will be quiet. Ahmed tells us that the designs on the floor, walls, and windows have no religious significance but were used because they are simple and don’t distract from the purpose of worship – the same reason women and men don’t pray together. The black balls among all the handblown lamps from France are speakers – not incense or cameras. The carpet is from Scotland and the wooden doors imported from India are made out of teak wood. It was finished in 1988 at a price of 19.9 million dollars.

Ahmed, our mosque tour guide

Ahmed, our mosque tour guide

We walk up the four sets of stairs, feeling the breeze from the open courtyard, to the second floor. Here we will walk around again and then sit for a history of Abraham, Isaac, and Muhammad. We will learn that the men chose to wear white attire because they worked outside and let women wear the black while they worked indoors as over a thousand years ago it was easier to make black and white clothing. We learned about the pillars of Islam and Ahmed tells us that he’s been to Mecca twice. It used to take four to six weeks by camel and now only takes him five hours to get there – hence the travel restriction of only two million visitors annually now.

Bahrain World Trade Center - second tallest in the country

Bahrain World Trade Center – 2nd tallest building in the country at 787 feet

While we put our shoes back on and return our clothing there are ladies offering free reading material, calendars, and juice boxes. I choose pineapple juice to drink and Quran: A Short Journey and The Man in the Red Underpants – both by One Reason to read. Caleb mentions the translated Qur’an and the lady is kind enough to get us a copy. Caleb notices the English (read left to right) next to the Arabic (read right to left) and wonders if the book is written backwards for them or us.

man weaving

man basket weaving at Capital Mall

On our return to the bus we learn that a new guy on Caleb’s boat learned conversational gulf Arabic while in Egypt for eight months getting his degree. He’s also a BUDs dropout that became an IC (interior communications) so that he wouldn’t have to deal with the fraternity mindset of becoming an officer. His barracks roommate is an ET (electrician tech) that is only 19 and started working in a machine shop for his dad when he was 13. He got tired of the 14 hour days and chose a different line of work.

tapestry for sale at Capital Mall

tapestry for sale at Capital Mall

Back on the bus and there is a girl in my spot. I’m ok to sit somewhere else, but the seat behind that has water bottles in it, the seat behind that has a bag in it, and the seat behind that has the baby carrier. I sit with the bag and Caleb with the bottles. This gives us the chance to talk to the family of the 14-year-old girl. The dad is prior military who got discharged for rheumatoid arthritis and the mom is GS-12 (equivalent to an O-4) contracted to work out here. We get BD1,041 for rent and she gets BD1,400. They moved here from Naples where they lived for six years.

giant mosquitoes at Qal'at al-Bahrain

giant mosquitoes at Qal’at al-Bahrain Museum

Our next stop is Capital Mall where handmade goods are made and sold. We get to watch a man basket weave for a bit, but have to look quickly at all the clothes – knitted and embroidered, pottery – painted and in-process, jewelry – big stone necklaces and small earrings, magnets – made of cardboard, woven carpets, model wooden ships, and the room full of spices. We are getting ready to leave and the mom hands over her baby boy with blond hair and blue eyes to the local ladies so they can take selfies with him – they thought he was cute and I heard one compliment his hair.

beach at Bahrain Fort

beach at Bahrain Fort

We get to the Bahrain Fort at 11:30 and are warned that we won’t be staying long as the heat of the day only goes up for hours. I recognise the large mosquitoes from Caleb’s pictures, but aren’t given the chance to recall anything from the inside as we all make our way towards the ruins. This is one of the two UNESCO World Heritage Sites on the island and I’m thrilled to be here. There is one way in and while we are walking in the breeze I could last for hours, but inside the walls with the sun staring at us between rocks I feel like a piece of fish on a solar stove top being baked to death.

ruins outside the fort

ruins outside the fort

We catch a break going downstairs into their storage areas – some having lights and sounds playing. My favorite was the room that resembled the largest game of cat’s cradle ever or a scene from Saw. We scared a girl thinking the same thing on her way down. Lots of history and artefacts here, but not enough time to see them all today. We are one of the last people to get back to the bus. We might’ve been left had it not been for the three people behind us. We will be going back, in the hot season versus the hotter season, so that I can go inside, we can possibly snorkel there (away from the water bottles on the beach), try some food from the café, and walk around more of the fort.

Manama in the background

Manama in the background

Now that everyone is dripping in sweat and starting to burn into their food stores it’s time for lunch. I enjoy that this tour takes us to different locations around the island. We aren’t told to look out the windows at anything particular but the view is still there – for the people who can appreciate it. For those that can’t, I don’t know why they bothered to come. Lunch is had at the Veranda Restaurant. We pay our BD6 at the door and sit at a table for two, leaving all the larger tables for groups of navy guys and college girls.

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Dogs Appointment Day

Posted on June 17, 2014 by TheJessicaness
sunlight coming in the window

sunlight coming in the window

I want to be adjusted to a schedule already, but I can only fight sleep until 9pm with the help of caffeine. Then regardless of the light coming in the window or if there is a party outside or not I wake up at 2 or 3 and then Sparky does the same and lets his nails click all over the floor to wake us up to let him out. Part of me doesn’t mind because I can watch an obstructed sunrise through our window or I will have to break curfew to watch it on the beach – which I still need to do.

The internet was working a little faster so I thought I would pay bills. That’s a bad idea when still getting used to a new country and before having breakfast or coffee. I couldn’t wrap my brain around the $770 charge for the rental car. I was under the impression that we would be paying $200 a month, but I guess that meant BD (290 total), and since we paid for two months in advance we got a good deal and they put us in a more expensive car but are charging us for the cheaper one.

I should’ve remembered that I thought living in California was expensive – paying an extra dollar for peanut butter, 60 cents more for each gallon of gas, and $1,400 for a two bedroom – our biggest place yet. So moving here it seemed the food was comparable (and it all has to be delivered), the gas is supposed to be a third of the cost from the States, but the rent is doubling. I was able to swallow that fact easier knowing that the Navy would pay our rent, but we’ve spent so much money on this trip and I can’t keep track of the flow like I’m used to.

I’m hoping in another week my sleep pattern will balance out, the heat won’t make me as tired, and the banks will process our debits and payments so that I will know where we stand financially. It makes me wonder why Caleb would want to bother with dragging one life into the other. He could’ve left all this – car, household goods, wife, and dogs – and come here unaccompanied. He could’ve drank with the guys and shared a flat with them. He could eat fast food and rent a fast car. He could watch TV all night and then just call me in-between, but he loves me enough to put up with the crazy.

dirt lot decoration

dirt lot decoration

He’s really stressed out trying to do all the running around for extra processing that I need and he’s taking it out on the people trying to help us. He knew how much I wanted to come and was willing to have to stay here another year, but I wanted to come for the positive experience that other spouses and travellers have, not for negativity and regret of being somewhere with someone who doesn’t like their surroundings. I’m hoping these are temporary emotions.

We enjoy our breakfast and eat slowly. I will try the corn flakes and whole milk. We got there early and get back to the room at 7:15. We agree to leave in an hour so we can find parking and get to our appointment on time. It’s easy to get the well rested, just walked and fed dogs into the car. Sparky rolls down his window and in our Mazda I can lock the windows for everyone else but still roll them all down. In this Nissan if the windows are locked I can only use mine.

The lot closest to the base gate is full so we park in the next one a building distance away. Going through the gate is easy and the day is still cool. We arrive to our 9am appointment 15 minutes early. The technician lets us in to cool off, then sets us up in the room. The vet comes in, does her exam of both dogs and recommends Piggy get her teeth cleaned and Sparky get neutered to keep his prostate from getting too big and blocking his butthole from proper function. Their medication got shipped so we have to buy Heartgard and Frontline as sand ticks are a big problem here. The visit and three-month supply of meds will cost us $118.

Caleb went to PSD to get prepaid for per diem while I waited in the shade next to Bldg. 1 before Piggy chased a cat out of the bushes. Then we went inside so that they could have some air in place of water. I brought a bottle for them but nothing to put it in so they could drink. Caleb got done and went by the Desert Dome for a cup. I refilled my bottle and then we made the hot trek to the car. It felt more hot today keeping up with Piggy’s quick pace and having no breeze to cool us off. I was grateful that it wasn’t too hot on their pads to walk so that I didn’t have to carry them.

the base is in Juffair

the base is in Juffair

They stopped in the shade of a vehicle two down from ours and got some more water while I turned the air on to make the seat less prone to burning. Their tongues hung out for half the ride and finally made it back inside their mouths before we got home. We are all appreciating the air, cold marble floor, and cool leather couches. I text the realtor and after 20 minutes of no reply decide it’s time to go to Lulu’s for some shopping. I’m in need of more Ramadan friendly clothes while I wait for mine from the States.

Finding it is no problem now that we know to turn at intersections with lights, not random unmarked streets. We spend maybe 45 minutes in the ladies department finding me a few shirts and a wrap-around skirt, and then I try on a dress that reminds Caleb of Little House on the Prairie – I didn’t get it. We grab Caleb two shirts and I watch a guy ‘break-in’ to the dressing room. Somehow it was locked with no one in it, so I ask him to unlock the second one too so that all three rooms will be available again.

We head to the Manama Souq. There is parking across the street and as big as the entrance may look the amount of shops down the long alleys are even more impressive. I start to get hungry and mention that we could go to Shawarma Alley, but Caleb says we came here looking for knee-covering shorts, so I grab the first pair I see (in the men’s section) so we can leave. Then I spot a juice stand and order a medium mango consisting of fruit and ice. I slurp that down on the way back to the car.

Caleb agrees to see the Alley even though we should be meeting with realtors, but the directions get us into a few dead-ends in the middle of the souq and soon Caleb’s dehydration gets the better of him. We almost took a shortcut to the highway, but the curb was too tall for the car. This doesn’t stop other cars from driving on the sidewalk to take an exit or to cut in line – they will do this from the turn lane too.

food shot - because I didn't take enough photos of anything else

food shot – because I didn’t take enough photos of anything else

Home at 2:30 and we have an appointment with a realtor today at 3:15 and another one tomorrow at 4pm. Diana is on time and takes us to Meena 7 – a tall apartment resort. She shows us the two pools and private beach and the parking garage before going upstairs to show us the large three bedroom place. It didn’t have any furniture in it but the view was nice, the space plenty, and the maid’s quarters – a personal bathroom with room for a bed and dresser next to it. I would prefer it be a guest room, small office, or dog room, or a place the maid sleeps when she’s too drunk to drive. I wouldn’t expect someone to stay there long-term.

Then we pass the place we looked at yesterday to see a three bedroom version of it. The backyard is bigger and has a fence, but no ladder to the water. It’s between two walls giving us a more personal swimming area in the canal and a neighbour with a boat. The living room, a bathroom, and kitchen are downstairs, two bedrooms on the second floor, another bedroom on the third, and maid’s quarters on the fourth. Plenty of balcony space to store our things that won’t fit in the house, but with the extra-large wardrobes I don’t think it will be a problem.

She had a couple of places she was going to show us, but Tala island got in trouble for letting its tenants have dogs when there is a large sign that says no pets, so we need to find a place that is pet friendly before they are gone. There was a place with a side yard – biggest yet we’ve seen in Bahrain – that was only on the market for one day. I would’ve taken it if the family wasn’t there standing in the open door as they waved us away.

Diane drops us back off at The Dragon and tells us we can walk by another place at 6pm to see if it’s available for showing and that she might be back in time to go with us. She hands us her card and drives away. Caleb makes spinach and cheese raviolis for dinner and while we wait for them to cook we have some crackers with pepper gouda and I share a banana with the dogs. Our houseboy comes by demanding our towels saying that he has to change them out every other day – company policy.

We take the dogs with us to villa 220 and the family inside is making dinner. It smells amazing, I remove my shoes, and step inside. The extended living room does add more space. They’re using theirs as an office and the backyard space that they do have is fenced in because they have small dogs too, but I think we’re still set on the three bedroom. We enjoy the walk home and I think tonight will be the earliest yet.

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Day Two at the Brief

Posted on June 16, 2014 by TheJessicaness
exchange receipt

exchange receipt 

I set the alarm early so that I could get online and get some things done before leaving. I ended up taking a shower, emailing Hasan, and checking Facebook. Caleb grabbed his uniform – can’t be worn off base – and we went to breakfast. There was a mother in there with two school-age children and another one throwing a tantrum. I tried one of the stuffed croissants from Caleb’s plate and we were out of there.

On the road, Caleb realises that he forgot to shave and decides not to wear his uniform again today. Some of the spokespeople have been no-shows, but three of the guys on Caleb’s boat decided to get too drunk last night to show up on time this morning. It’s no wonder that the anti-terrorism, shore patrol, and pass & ID speeches that we hear today will sound repetitive. It doesn’t matter how many people say it multiple times – stupid people are going to make dumb choices – even if they get to fly large equipment, carry fully automatic weapons, have families at home, or are in another country.

I know a lot of people who did their time in the Navy – like myself who used the time to be crazy at first and then grow up and make something of themselves when they got out, but today’s navy is more about daycare for adults than a responsible learning environment. Part of the security brief was about transportation on base. You’re supposed to register your bike for theft recovery when nine out of the ten recovered weren’t registered – just as I was becoming impressed with the security of this place I realise it has its faults like everywhere else.

After 9am a lot of people left to get their visas and other things taken care of – including us. We already knew we needed a print out from Admin from upstairs in Bldg. 1 so we went there first. Then passed some of the guys from the command that thought we could use the Liberty Center computers to print out another form we need, but only the library has color printers for that purpose – and both open at ten. We sit down at a bench in the shade and Caleb’s XO approaches. I don’t say anything while she’s there – obviously – but as soon as she walks away I ask Caleb how long she’s been in. He’s guessing at least four years because the way it sounded to me it should be Caleb who’s in charge. She’s been here since the second of June and looks to be on vacation. She’s not in uniform, she didn’t meet us at the airport, and hasn’t helped the command in any way (that I know of).

In the library we try to use the wi-fi code on the computer and when that doesn’t work Caleb sets up an account. As we’re printing ours we’re able to help other people who come in get their form in order. You only fill out one sheet, but it prints four and the library charges 25 cents a page. We take all that to the immigration office which is a conex box with a couch in it making the space even more limited. We wait in line to turn over our passports so that they can take three weeks to process them for our one-year visa – even though they knew ahead of time that we would be here for two years. As we walk out of there I mention the same thing about lodging. The first week should’ve been taken care of, but then there would be our issue of getting the wrong room paid for. This whole process continues to be unorganised with no sign of improvement.

We start to walk back to the briefing room so I can sit for the Bahrain FRG (family readiness group) when Caleb realizes he set his water bottle down somewhere. He goes back to look for it while I go to the bagel shop to buy lunch. I get a veggie bagel with olive cream cheese and a jalapeño cheddar bagel with plain cream cheese. I meet Caleb upstairs and we have time to eat, lay back in the uncomfortable chairs, and then go down to the NEX to buy a pumice stone and loofahs.

Upstairs we notice that we missed the MWR brief because there are yellow bags everywhere with their initials on them. Some a-hole threw his away instead of saying no thanks so I was still able to get one, but I don’t think I can wear it off base so I will be mailing it back to the States to one lucky person. We sit through the sexual assault brief and learn all about the victim’s rights, then the best news since we’ve been here gets delivered by PSC Mendoza. He lets us know that for those of us that will be here for two years the Navy will pay for a $2,000 round-trip ticket to an approved location – meaning not Iraq, etc. and other nations that may be on the don’t travel list at the time.

He goes through all the other entitlements – how much for hotels and houses, how much food money we get, family separation pay (only if your family was not approved for overseas), and then tells us that if active duty extends for a year they will have the choice of one of four incentives – 30 days free leave, $2,000 cash, $80/month for the extended year, and something else, but letting us know that most people take the free plane ticket and free leave and go on a vacation. I let Caleb know that he doesn’t have to do that. He doesn’t want to be here for two years, let alone three.

We don’t have to stay for the rest of the brief and are let go at 1:30pm. Caleb’s command sent around a sign-up sheet to go to PSD, but one day we have the dogs appointment and the next we signed up for the culture tour – museum with lunch for BD7 and free tour of the Grand Mosque. I didn’t think that many people were interested, but Mr. Hassan said that more than 40 people are going. I was looking forward to a smaller crowd, but I hope the people going will be respectful and it makes me happy that they are curious.

With the PSD brief out of the way we figure we can go by the office on base. The guy there tells us to come back when Caleb checks into the boat, though we can come back to get our hotel room reimbursement and some advanced pay for food. I bring up going to the souq and Caleb’s thinking about the tour – both require BD, so we go to the exchange office after the ATM. On our way there we see Amy and meet April – another lonely wife at her command. They leave with hands full of boxes and upstairs we pull out $500 to have it turned into BD188.

It feels late and I’m ready for a nap. Caleb reminds me that it’s only 2:30pm, not 4pm. Not that it makes a difference in jet lag, but that it’s technically still early in the day. I’m anxious to get home and tend to the dogs. Traffic is heavy heading towards the highway and there’s a lot of merging with lanes ending and lane closure for construction. I pissed a local lady off today when I wouldn’t let her have my lane so when the road went back to two lanes – she took it! I slowed down and let her go. I know that she can total her husband’s car and blame it on the stupid American and I will be left waiting for the police to show up and paying for damages.

Caleb vents to me the rest of the way home about that injustice – we let foreigners walk all over us in the States and then they are free to do it in their home country. I have learned to accept things are a certain way in different parts of the world – that’s what makes them unique, but if there were ways to improve them such as equal rights, well that might seem better to us, but here this system works for them and I applaud their absolute freedom to share lanes and park on building ruins and half in traffic lanes. This doesn’t make me want to run back to the States; it makes me want to see more of the world and all its glory.

The puppies are excited to see us when we get home. We have good timing today and are able to park directly in front of our door instead of a few feet away on the other side of the fountain. We walk them, feed them, and I eat wilted salad – tomato, cucumber, lettuce, and feta – and chocolate as a snack. I refill my water bottle that I carry everywhere so that I can recycle some of the plastic bottles on base tomorrow when we go. I look forward to the day we can reuse the five gallon jugs instead of having to buy cases of 1.5 liter bottles.

I will get some writing done while Caleb takes a nap. I go into the kitchen for another snack and see my first moldy banana (thanks humidity). I’ve seen them get soft spots all the time, but this thing was growing. I cut the tip off and was going to save half of it but it was mushy, so I sacrificed a half-inch and ate the rest. I contacted the realtors and made an appointment for tomorrow; tried looking at bills and with a slow internet connection got logged out before the page would load; and was going to call the doctor and dentist but realised it was after hours so I turned on the TV. I flipped through a few movies – Snow Dogs, Selena, and watched them blur. It’s a little after seven and the dogs need to go out.

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Indoctrination Day

Posted on June 15, 2014 by TheJessicaness
sunrise through the curtain

sunrise through the curtain

I remember Caleb pouring the Rockstar. I remember taking a sip and trying to turn on the TV. This happened around 7pm and the next thing I vaguely remember was Caleb taking me to bed at 9pm. I slept well until 2:30am. Sparky woke up with me so I took him outside as I wondered about curfew. We’re supposed to be inside by 1am, but what’s the earliest we can come out again – this question will be asked today.

Caleb gets out of bed at three to tell me that he let Sparky out at two. We need to keep him awake during the day with us so that he will sleep at night with us too. We get all our paperwork in order and I start going through photos for the blog, but by five we are getting antsy. I start looking through the pile of magazines available on our coffee table. We put the dogs in the second bedroom so that we can get dishes and cleaning done while we are gone and go to breakfast at 6:58.

Time Out Bahrain magazine

Time Out Bahrain magazine

We are the first ones in there, fill our plates, stuff our faces, and are in the car 15 minutes later. It only takes us 15 minutes to get to the dirt lot in front of base which delivers us to the Freedom Souq 25 minutes early. We walk around a bit and then go inside to a multiple command indoc. I thought this would be another two-hour process, but we are handed a five-day schedule. Luckily two days are not mandatory for us and one day is a voluntary Bahrain culture tour by a local. We hear from the CO and XO and they try to sound professional and prominent, but they just sound pompous to me.

The CMC spoke next and made a nice impression on me. A guy in the back asked a question about something that was already said and got to go to the front and reread the card that they will pass out to the audience. I asked about curfew and was told that I should be inside from 1:00 to 5:00 am – and not to go alone with my dogs as they could be stolen and sold. As many terrorist activities and scary things I’ve heard about this place that was definitely not one of them, but luckily the ropes we are using now can be wrapped around our bodies for extra security.

We hear from the Navy College Office, get fire fighting training from the local department, and hear from four different people about medical and mental health. Guys talk to us about DAPA, NCIS (like the TV show), and a lady from the pet vet’s office about their limited services. The NEX rep talks to us about purchases – outlet transformer, alcohol point system, items offered with price matching and easy ordering of what they don’t have.

another tasty morning at Yamin Jana

another tasty morning at Yamin Jana

Then Mr. Hassan talks to us about what to expect during Ramadan – sadly I can’t go to the procession on the 21st, but I can go into the Grand Mosque and the ceremonial tents. During their holy month they not only abstain from food during the day, but also from drink, sex, smoking, cussing, and bad deeds. He teaches us some greetings – Eid Mubarak (blessed Eid) and assalamu alaikum (peace be with you); and lets us know that restaurants will be closed during the days, bars closed for the month, and other businesses will have shorter hours.

Mr. Hassan tells us when kids will come knocking on our doors – we can either participate by giving them candy and singing along or lock our doors. He finishes with telling us more about the local Bahrain customs and ways we can show respect for their religion and culture – don’t show the bottom of our feet, take our shoes off in their home (so we don’t dirty where they pray), don’t make out in public, dress modestly, and don’t flip off protestors (or a finger is likely to be removed).

sign inside the Freedom Souq on base

sign inside the Freedom Souq on base

And each speaker stresses the importance of safety and security – buy a paper shredder, women can take women driver cabs, this nation is zero tolerance for alcohol in the blood stream while driving, numbers to call if we see something or feel scared, numbers that will text us to avoid riot areas, what the red and yellow zones mean on the map (red not at all and yellow not at night), and don’t participate in human trafficking (prostitutes). You shouldn’t invite locals back to your room and don’t talk to them about politics, religion, pork, alcohol, or sex.

After the brief, we left early because we’d already been to the housing brief, we followed a guy to medical where we were told to go to Bldg. 1 to get the same form we had but with a different name on it. We went by the Inn & Suites to get some copies made and I was enrolled in medical. We decide to take care of dental and visas tomorrow as it’s now 4pm and their offices are probably closed. We were also able to set up a P.O. box during our lunch break. We had some trouble opening the box at first – it has been years since using a spin lock with a three number combo – and then we went to the deli in the NEX for a Texas omelette and veggie omelette on jalapeño cheddar bagels. We went back to the briefing room to eat them.

We went back by the NEX when we were done running errands so I could get some appropriate local attire, but they offer workout gear that’s too tight and ladies blouses that are too big. We can go by the souq tomorrow. We would’ve gone today, but I quickly remembered that the dogs were probably still in the bedroom where they had been for nine hours and they needed out – I was right in my assumption. Amy texts me to let me know that her property manager, Hasan, is available to show us a place and will be at our place to pick us up at six to look at it. I’m so grateful for the helpful people who are making this transition easier.

sunset from The Dragon parking lot

sunset from The Dragon parking lot

Hasan arrives at 6:30 and takes us across the street to view a two-story townhouse with water access from the backyard and a view of the ocean in the front. We loved a lot about it – the water cooler, transformer, washer with separate dryer, large oven, and the living room – but realised we will need a three bedroom place to accommodate four bicycles, a tool box, treadmill, cabinets and bookshelves, and our desks with chairs.

Next door is Jamnis working on his new-to-him jet ski. Caleb worked with him for a while so we walk over to talk and he invites his wife, Reika, out to say hi and we end up talking for at least an hour. She happens to know Amy through her husband’s command. They really want us to be neighbours, but I figure anything within walking, or bike riding, distance will be good too. Before we left there we met Nicole walking her dog with an empty stroller to prepare them both for next month when the baby arrives.

Back home I’m too tired to be motivated and turn on the TV for mindless entertainment to keep me awake. We end up watching the middle of Darjeeling Limited – something about three brothers traveling to see their mother. I decide to walk the dogs when my eyes get heavy. It will be another early night in bed around nine, but I’m setting my alarm for 5:15.

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Trying to Sleep in Twilight

Posted on June 14, 2014 by TheJessicaness
our breakfast at Yamin Jana

our breakfast at Yamin Jana

We waited up until 10pm last night before going to bed. I set the alarm for 7:15 – way more sleep than usually needed but hoping to help recover from jet lag. I got woken up by the club next door and was surprised to hear, “Because all of me loves all of you”. I recalled a dream I had and then went back to sleep. Sparky woke up letting his nails click throughout the place and then coming back to bed to clean the dust off his feet. I knew he had to go outside, but I was tired and didn’t want to get up yet.

houseboys mopping

houseboys mopping

Caleb woke up enough, we got dressed, and carried the dogs across the street at 3:45 am. People around here live like vampires – coming out at night. We are probably being stared at, but we are too blurry eyed to care and most of them are drunk in conversation waiting for their rides. It felt later than it was and I would listen to their music and wait to fall asleep. I woke up at 5am to go to the bathroom and figured I could lay down for two more hours, but when I woke at 6am I got out of bed. We were supposed to get a head start on house hunting, but there is only so far we can go on foot and Master Chief never got in touch with us yesterday like he said he would to show us around and introduce me to his wife and some of her friends – so we wait.

newspaper - pee pads

newspaper – pee pads

Caleb wakes and takes the laundry out of the machine. He put more in there than the dryer could handle so he starts using hangers and drawers and closet space to hang them up. He goes into the den and notices two piles of dried something that we somehow missed the smell of. He picks up the crusted dry poo from the dogs’ makeshift toilet; then remembers that their travel blankets need to be washed and the newspapers that were under them, covered in pee, need to be thrown out.

sign in the wash section of the prayer room

sign in the ablution section of the prayer room

I make a video of Caroline’s visit to the beaches and post it to YouTube and then it’s time for breakfast. We walk over to Yamin Jana and the server asks for our room number – umm, 9 something, 3 something, and a 5. Then we look on the paper by last name and are welcomed into the dining area. The buffet takes up three walls – toast, yogurt, fruit, veggies, cheese, cereal, juice, coffee, beans, mushrooms, boiled eggs… and as we look we are offered a pancake, waffle, or omelette. We choose pancake, load our plates, and take a seat by the window.

one of "The Camels of Unity"

one of “The Camels of Unity”

I got rye toast with orange marmalade, a muffin, triangle of brie, a scoop of labnah (sour cream yogurt), slice of tomato, piece of pineapple and honeydew, pineapple juice, and a pancake that resembled a crêpe. The server sees us watching the cleaning crew mopping and squeegee-ing outside and notes that clean up is very much necessary especially after the weekend parties and says something about the humidity. The sun is hiding behind the clouds for now and it feels nice out. We feel guilty heading back to our room and leaving dirty footprints across their freshly mopped floor.

under construction at The Lagoon

under construction at The Lagoon

I’m not feeling well. I think it’s a mix of sleep deprivation, dehydration, and the labnah – though I didn’t have that much. I haven’t had to taste the same meal twice in a long time but doing so makes me feel better. I lay on the couch for an hour with Piggy while Caleb adds more yarn to his ball. Regurgitation, relaxation, and some fresh air will cure me. We walk the dogs, give them some food, and then head to The Lagoon that is supposed to have a grocery store closer to us. I notice the tiny mop heads in the window of the parking garage and the thin directional arrows in the road.

me in a hanging chair

me in a hanging chair

The mall is three stories – floors G, 1, 2 – with the second floor mostly construction, the first floor mostly restaurants, and the ground floor offering food, furniture, and spa services. There is a building on each side of the water and a round building built over the water, but the janitor can’t tell us what it is, or we don’t know how to ask, but we do point. I find a ladies prayer room and take a peek inside. There is a place for your shoes, a wash area for hands, feet, and face, and then a carpeted room with a bookshelf in the back. We pass a lot of American version restaurants and though I thought I wouldn’t eat there I want to taste the difference. We make our way from one side to the other, find the elevator, and I finish my water. It’s time to find air-conditioning and more water.

restaurant outer decor

restaurant outer decor

Our hands are swollen as we finish our first litre of water at Pizza Express. We order dough balls with three sauces – pesto, garlic butter, and red pesto – as an appetizer. And for lunch we get two pizzas: Giardiniera with red pesto, veggies, and added balsamic; and Melanzane Piccante with aubergine, jalapeños, Mozzarella and Grana Padano cheeses, rocket and added chilli pepper oil. We order another bottle of water and finish half of that at the table and refill my bottle with the rest. As we are leaving a family comes in – father, mother in jeans with an abaya, two kids, and the nanny. Part of me doesn’t see the point in wearing both – it’s meant to cover womanly curves and save you from sand and sun, but wearing it so loosely just looks bad.

the unknown building in the middle of The Lagoon

the unknown building in the middle of The Lagoon

We take our two boxes of pizza and take a short cut home. Caleb thinks about our food allotment money – BD80 a day each – and that even if we go out once a day like we have been we’re only spending BD30 for both of us and will still have enough saved up to pay the large move-in deposit that we will need in 43 days. While we were eating Caleb got a text from Master Chief letting us know that he was going to pick us up in an hour.

hedge sign

hedge sign

When we get to the room I take a shower while Caleb walks the dogs. Master Chief is 30 minutes late and I have no idea where we are going, but I’m sure to bring water, phone, and ID. His name is Francis and we meet his wife, Amy, and their ten-year old son, Nick – a family of talkers. They have a 20-year old son that’s in Japan in the Navy. They take us to a car rental place on American Alley where we can get a good deal – we are to drive the expensive white Nissan tonight and then exchange it tomorrow for the car in our budget.

balls

dough balls at Pizza Express

From there we follow them to base – Caleb’s second time driving in Bahrain. We meet Francis’ XO and they buy things for dinner at their house tonight. Amy is full of recommendations on what brands to buy and where to find the best deals. We stop at Baskin Robbins and I get a Love Potion #31 – ice cream, coffee, and bagels – some of the good treats on base. We go our separate ways at the NEX and buy sunscreen, a red coffee mug for me, a 12-pack of water, Cheerios, and a case of chili Ramen among other items that fit in two bags. On base it’s ok to cart your goods to the gate and then haul them to your car. NEX employees will come by when needed to bring them back to the store.

our rental car from Al Kobaisi

our rental car from Al Kobaisi

We waited to buy more fresh produce on the recommendation of Amy to go to Lulu’s Hypermarket. Caleb seems to drive there with ease only having one car drive in the same lane as us once. We missed a turn, but were quickly able to find our way along narrow streets filled with erratically parked cars, pedestrians, cyclists, and delivery trucks. I think of the restrictions of the U.S. and though they may be for ‘our safety’ here parking is a total freedom unless the lot has attendants and even then people park where space is available.

going up in Lulu's

going up in Lulu’s

We find parking in the garage and make our way inside. My eyes light up at the sight of a human conveyor belt making shopping a three or four-story mall with carts so convenient – and cool with air vents along the belt. I thought we would start at the top and make our way down, but I got caught at the size of the selections of food on the third floor. We grabbed a basket and made our way down every aisle and through the produce section. I look for paneer and settle for the ready-made boxed dinners with it included. To get our cheese fix we buy Mozzarella, Gouda, and Dutch smoked with pepper. We buy some black truffle oil, two flavors of raviolis, milk to go with the cereal, tomatoes, a mango, and some drinks to try.

got rice?

got rice?

On one floor there are kids starting a cake decorating contest. Any place that has air-conditioning is a great place to sell food, have plenty of seating, and events to entertain children while their parents shop. We head back to the car and Caleb hands me the key – so he can navigate. I could get used to this. It’s not so bad when the roads aren’t busy, otherwise it’s like rush hour in Miami. I unpack the groceries and sit down to write. I start to get tired so Caleb pours me a glass of Rockstar.

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