What Time Zone Is It?

walking to the store - our hotel behind me

walking to the store – our hotel behind me

We aren’t going to sleep until 3am and I set my alarm for 7am so that I can try to get on a schedule and get over jet lag with shorter naps in the afternoon. I turned the air to 22.5 degrees throughout the rest of the place – the bedrooms have a separate thermometer, and then climbed under the thick and heavy blanket – no sheet – on the bed. I got up again to check on the dogs. Sparky was tucked into a corner of the couch and Piggy was sprawled out on the carpet. I went to bed happy that they were with us and expecting them to join us at some point – and it would happen, but not in a way I had thought of.

The bars don’t close until 4 and it somehow took the drunk people another hour to reach our door. I didn’t know that our room came with a doorbell until I was woken up to the sound of it. I peeked through the peephole to find a couple standing closely to it telling their friends that they will get in. By the time I could call the front desk – only two doors away – it was already being taken care of. Now with the dogs in bed with me I can go back to sleep for two hours and then go to the guest complimentary breakfast, served from 7 to 10, that others have bragged about.

Or I can stay in bed until 10am when the doorbell goes off again, but instead of ring, ding, ding, etc. it’s the houseboys with just one ring to let me know they are here to service my room. As I hold Sparky to keep him quiet I kindly decline this morning. We still have plenty of clean towels, extra soap, another bed to dirty the sheets, and though the floor may be dusty it’s something that I will need to get used to.

Outside the pool is full of boys with their fathers and uncles – some in the pool and others sunbathing. Caleb makes a to-do list while I check my email and then we make a shopping list. I fed the dogs and we’re getting ready to go. Caleb helps Piggy sit on the carpet so that she can barf on the tile. I didn’t measure out their food and she didn’t finish her bowl but she also didn’t chew half her meal so it found its way back up. I feel bad that they spent five days in a crate not eating or sleeping. They are happy for the endless food and air-conditioned sleep.

STOP at Amwaj Avenue

STOP at Amwaj Avenue

Caleb finds a grocery store nearby called Alosra, but his 1km turns into a 1.5 mile one-way trip. It’s ok though; as long as we are in the shade with the wind blowing it feels like a tropical paradise, but there is that reminder when we walk into the sun again that we are at the sun’s vacation resort where it’s only 95 degrees today. As we make our way there I can’t determine if I’m surprised by the lack of trash or that there are so many used water bottles along the route – didn’t know what to expect.

We should travel with water at all times as the instantaneous sweat will leave you swollen, red, and sick, and possibly delusional if you’re lucky, but sooner than you realize. All the signs are bilingual, the license plates too. There are lots of people on bikes carrying rakes, lawnmowers, and groceries. There are crosswalks in the most ‘visible’ areas between turns where sometimes you can stroll across and other times need to run between cars and still get honked at even though you’re now out of the street.

At the roundabout is a construction crew and part of the crosswalk is covered in their equipment. We walk closely to it until we can get back on the sidewalk. The workers are under the shade of the tree enjoying their long lunch break. I don’t blame them as I wouldn’t want to be playing in a hot sand pit under the desert sun in mid-day either. We walk by giant orange pots that are growing trees and then a sidewalk that goes between the water and the road (and more water on the other side) that is surrounded by trees.

We pass a couple other people making use of the shade too, then pass the new security gate in progress to enter Amwaj Islands, and the store comes into view – an air conditioned paradise. We buy me a bottle of Voss water from the deli, and though we’re not into buying artisan water I like the glass. I should buy one with a larger opening. Then we walk around the pet store where they sell rabbits and dog food – possibly the same thing in my dogs’ eyes. Back in the grocery store I get a sample of taro frozen yogurt, a beet hummus sandwich square, and strawberry yogurt.

largest terracotta pot I've seen

largest terracotta pot I’ve seen

Caleb likes the spicy hummus and we get a dish of that. We walk up and down each aisle. The fruits and vegetables department has a man with a scale that weighs and prices your food – that we forget to use for our bananas – that saves time at the register. There are meat, cheese, and bread counters. The food varies from American, to British, to Middle East, to Asian giving us plenty of comfort options to choose from, but also a plethora of new items to tempt our tastebuds. There is also a pork section hidden in the back of the store near the random assortment section.

We buy ass soap, dish soap, laundry soap, and hair soap; Hobnobs and Ribena that remind me of Indo-Euro in Phoenix; bottled water until we can get a water cooler; cheap crunchy peanut butter with rhubarb and ginger jelly on korn bread; Lindt chocolate and a Kinder Joy; some leek-potato soup, Brie cheese, and kiwis with a scoop/peeler included. I help bag our groceries so that I have a bag for each hand and Caleb gets a bag and the water. The sales clerk gets to sit in a chair all day and somehow seem to maintain a figure under their abaya.

The walk back to the room is just as much fun. Caleb is juggling the water as he tried to carry it by the plastic and it broke, but luckily stayed together to hold all the bottles in there – nothing a bag or two wouldn’t fix if we walked back to the store as long as the caps didn’t break on impact. Back at the hotel and our houseboy is at the neighbor’s. He comes over and whistles for the dogs that come to the kitchen to greet us. He wants to gauge their friendliness for when he cleans our room. Piggy says hello and he notices she’s blind. Sparky is either hoping for treats or wishing that he won’t be put in another crate for at least two years.

I write while Caleb reads. We start to feel sleepy so I suggest we turn on the TV. We watch the rest of Love and Other Drugs and get familiar with the popular commercials: one for Sedar Somfy – a curtain remote, one I want to record about the Freez drink, and one about a phone app – a man playing soccer with boys and realizes the ball is being controlled by a boy in the stands. We are watching Fox Movies – spoken in English with Arabic subtitles and when the station goes back to the film it sounds like A’hala Fucks Movies.

second roundabout en route

second roundabout en route

My pants were smelly and Caleb had started a load of laundry. We were waiting for them to finish when an alarm (like on a microwave) went off. Piggy decides to throw up again. I feel bad for them having to put up with jet lag and travel sickness and still need to look up what their plane and room in Amsterdam looked like – not that that will help with their condition. Caleb learned that you have to set the dryer at the same time as the wash – otherwise you have to rewash and ask your wife to wear something else. She puts on her pink, knee-length, dress and slips on her overly used Adidas to go for a walk now that the sun is down.

We walk the dogs first across the parking lot, down the stairs, and to the right behind the apartments in front of our hotel where there are twenty palm trees and a blanket of grass. At the end of the building, from an alley and behind a tree comes this fluffy white dog. Sparky was stealthy about it and there was no blood, but we had to wait for the family to catch up so that we could pass their pet that tried to follow us. The wife told me, “He don’t like that” as she pointed to Piggy’s leash. All other dogs have been on a leash and I don’t know the laws – not that it would matter if I did.

We take them back to the room, then head left from our door through the parking lot to the sidewalk that goes over a bridge. The night is cool at 97 degrees with a slight breeze. One of the floating tables from Yamin Jana are being used and I look forward to us trying it soon. The bridge is just as exciting as I thought it would be. There are lights, and buildings, and people running and walking their dogs… and then we notice the couple in a hot tub that looks like a washing machine exploded with bubbles and a sexual rhythm between them. I can hear the gears in Caleb’s head turning. You’ll know if we get a hot tub if I send out a request for Mr. Bubbles.

We continue our walk past nice compounds and construction sites. Some guys holler, others honk, and one sits in a roundabout to stare. I wonder if the lady that passed us took some video. We walk across another bridge and onto the beach on our return – where there is no fishing or swimming allowed, but on this side of the bridge we notice a float to keep the ocean and bay separate. I think about walking on it some time and we notice two guys using it to get back into their canoe. Then I remember that we haven’t eaten dinner yet and it’s after 7pm.

Caleb on the loveseat

Caleb on the loveseat

We thought we decided on Muju for dinner but when we walked into the sports bar and asked about outdoor seating we were told it was for VIP (referring to the covered area with a personal TV and seating for five), so we sat at the nearest table and were brought menus for Corners. The place is covered in soccer photos, country flags and big screens. The wait staff all have soccer related shirts on. The table next to us is full of women covered in make-up and wearing just enough dressy attire to cover their tits and ass. Usually as an American I would consider this normal, but sitting here I feel like I’m at the Bunny Ranch on lunch break. It makes me wonder how much skin I should be showing.

The first thing I see on the menu is the bar’s ten commandments – one being: Thou shalt not look for eye contact, especially at the opposite sex as they will most likely ignore you. I tell Caleb it’s getting easier to avoid looking at men and not responding to their Good Mornings and How Are You’s. It feels awkward, but they do seem to be directed towards Caleb and I don’t want to make them uncomfortable since I’m a guest in their country.

My advice though – ask someone that’s lived where you’re going what it’s like and what not to do. Don’t listen to the scare tactics that the media or military use, as most people ignore them here anyways – dressing inappropriately and going to the off-limits areas. It’s smart to take it into consideration when not sure or doing research – better safe than sorry.

We order tea that’s sweet, a Greek salad with bread slices, and a grilled veggie sandwich – eggplant, bell pepper, cheese, etc. – with fries and romaine on the side. We dip the fries in Heinz 57 and take half the salad to go. We add that to-go bag to our growing collection under the sink, put the leftovers in the fridge, and it’s off to wink town for us.

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Entering the Desert Where I Shall Dwell: Part Two

3rd bath, in den

third bath, in den

…the first half

We carry our bags into the front office around noon and when our reservation is confirmed we thank the van for waiting before they leave. Our paperwork from base said our room price average was $153 per night. We are getting the military rate at BD56, instead of the regular rate of BD92 for a two bedroom – not just a two bed. Two guys help Caleb with his canvas duffel bag to the second door to the left of the main entrance – room 9803, with a 5 above the door. One guy gives Caleb a tour of the place while I stand in the hallway in pure awe. I’m not looking at a hotel that I’m used to, not even a four-star one that my mother has described. What I see is a fancy apartment.

fridge and bottle opener

fridge and bottle opener

In the living room is a couch, loveseat, and chair with a flat screen on the opposing wall. There is a large window overlooking the pool and ocean that takes up another wall. There is an artsy dining table with four chairs across from a closet. I walk into the first bedroom and the houseboy is showing Caleb things outside another large window – all covered with thick blinds to keep the heat out. The houseboy leaves and I begin to explore.

The master bedroom comes with a large, stiff but comfy, bed and tall closets. The bathroom has standing shower with rain shower-head and a bathtub. The other room has another full bathroom minus tub. In the hallway is a half-bath. To the left of the entrance door is a lounge with a couch and a glass desk with similar looking plastic chair that also has a full bathroom. Across the hall is the kitchen – complete with fridge, washer/dryer machine, and stove.

the rest of the kitchen

the rest of the kitchen

There are mirrors with fancy frames, abstract paintings and macro photos enlarged on the walls, and artistic main ceiling lights with plenty of other bulbs installed to get the amount of mood lighting that you want – each room coming with a set of three light switches or for the bathrooms – two lights and a vent. The walls are white and tan and the floor marbled tile or hardwood except for the closet that comes with a rough tile floor. After the initial excitement wears off – it’s time to take a shower.

coffee table

coffee table

Caleb starts to unpack his bag in the main closet. I can sit by the tub and shave and then use the stand-up shower. I turn the water on – perhaps not to warm it up but to cool it off – and then turn the switch for the rain shower head as there are two in the stand-up. I take one of the glass doors off its track trying to close it to keep the water in. I open it again slightly to reach my hand in. When I step in I realize it was pointed outward, not down.

The shampoo and lotion supplied by the hotel are scented for men – oops. The closets are stocked with cotton slippers and I put a pair on. They can keep our feet warm and free of the dust that is sure to accumulate. Caleb checks the visibility of our sheer living room curtain and all is private in our room. Once we don’t look like we’ve been on a plane for three days it’s time to explore. It’s not yet Ramadan but the three nearby restaurants are closed. There is a woman in a bikini near the pool with her three sons. I walk down to the beach at 1:30 and the water is nice, but I feel too tired to do anything else but go back to the room.

view from the living room

view from the living room

Caleb laid down on the bed – perhaps to text someone or look at the delivery menu. Earlier I had turned the thermostat from 19 to 22 (66 to 72) degrees because I was cold getting out of the shower. I lay down beside Caleb and then wake up three or four hours later, maybe more, and he has turned it up to 23 because he says I was shivering. Now it’s time to eat, so we head to the Lebanon/Afghanistan restaurant – Yamin Jana. Most of the outside tables are reserved, but we find a cozy spot along the wall on a bench and then Caleb notices the women in the back smoking the sheesha.

dining table

dining table

We are offered some, but Caleb declines and orders the bread antake with oven vegetables, fattoosh, and makdus with two teas. Our drinks arrive first in fancy hurricane-style glasses with mint and lemon and the taste is something special. We sip on them for a while and I’m trying to take in everything – the lighting, all the portable air conditioners, and the weaved pattern decorating a support beam. A large table near us is soon filled with men from Saudi Arabia and the U.K. They discuss what different words mean in their languages, talk about Robby Williams – a famous pop-star, and about working less during Ramadan while fasting.

We try the makdus first. The menu said it was stuffed mini-eggplant with walnuts, etc. and the waiter had discouraged Caleb from ordering it at first. I wondered if it was because it was too spicy or to plain, but it turns out it was more pickled than we expected. This didn’t stop us from enjoying it. Next was the fattoosh – veggies with fried chips and Afghan-style naan bread. It was light, refreshing, and flavorful. The fun came when our main dish appeared and I saw the chicken on it staring me in the face. Caleb tried a piece to make sure and verified that it was.

master bath

master bath

I laughed on the inside at this awkward moment as Caleb tried to take care of the ordeal, both of us not wanting to shout out, but not sure if we should approach them, wave our hand, or whistle. I finally got eye contact with one of the employees and motioned him over. Our waiter came and Caleb explained that the menu clearly states antake with EITHER veggie OR chicken – not both. The waiter returned with the menu for clarification and agreed to fix the issue.

master bedroom

master bedroom

I ate with my right hand and put my fork in my left, but noticed that the guys were using both of their hands to tear the bread so there would be less social awkwardness with me doing it too. I think they brought a guy our order and he sent it back too. We ate as much as we could with what was left on the table and then Caleb was ready to go. I heard one of the ladies in the back say loudly, “Excuse Me” and a waiter was quickly at the table. Caleb tried this and then had to slightly raise his hand to separate his voice from all the other men on the patio. He made the sign for box with his hands but asked for the check.

We got the bill while waiting on our corrected order to come out. Bahrain, like Canada, has the portable credit card machine – it makes the States seem so old-fashioned. Had we waited to get ours delivered to the table we would’ve gotten it sooner, but I was ok with the man dining with friends to get his corrected first. I’m hoping that with two mistakes in one night the restaurant may consider amending the menu.

second bedroom

second bedroom

Checks may include a 15% fee and a 5% government levy, but I didn’t see a spot for a tip and we didn’t leave anything on the table. We were given the option to pay in dollar or dinar and Caleb let the waiter choose local currency. I will find out if the exchange rate fee will be the same for paying with credit as getting money from the ATM. A man was seated at the table next to us and Caleb pointed out the bottom of his foot. I wonder if it makes a difference being under the table. We could smell his hookah and then our bag arrived.

second bath, in second bedroom

second bath, in second bedroom

Caleb found the music channel. Some videos have women beautifully dressed playing the piano, others with their butts hanging out playing the harp, and others dancing in tank tops and short dresses behind the man singing. I look forward to finding some new long dresses to wear. The dogs were due to arrive at 9:45 and at 10:22 I’m becoming panicky. It’s the weekend and I’ve been warned about drunk Saudis crashing their expensive cars in intersections. That’s easy to avoid if you stay off the road at night, but if our dogs don’t get to the airport until midnight… We might get lucky in that a lot of the clubs and bars stay open until 4am. In a country with extreme heat they are smart to make the most of the night-time, but we also have a curfew to think about that expires at 1am.

Master Chief texts Caleb at 11pm and says he will meet us outside in 15 minutes. Twice that amount of time goes by – and while we wait we see cars speeding through the one-way parking lot and hear the guys getting rowdy and starting to dance as they celebrate their soccer team on TV. I begin to notice all the different license plates, the employees ask if we want shuttle or taxi and offer for us to sit inside while we wait, and then Master Chief pulls up in a Mercedes-Benz that has a netting over the sunroof opening.

the pool after dinner

the pool after dinner

He’s super friendly and keeps us in conversation during the ride. He gets us close to the airport and then gets directions via phone on how to get to the open side of the DHL building where the dogs are. We give the gate guard our IDs at midnight in exchange for visitor badges and wait inside for ten minutes. The guy handling our paperwork comes back asking for doggy passports and then lets me go outside to see them locked in their crates with zip-ties.

the logo, waiting on Master Chief

the logo, waiting on Master Chief

Caleb and Chief go to the ATM to get cash to finish paying all the import fees while I sit and wait – and realize it’s 1am when my curfew is supposed to expire. The guys are interested in what country I am from and whether those are dogs or cats in the containers. I watch a man with Brazil either shaved or sharpied on the side of his head navigate a fork lift like I have never seen when he drops a box weighing 3,500 pounds. Another man offers me a seat and yet another an industrial fan that I point at the dogs.

They appear in one piece and a bit upset, but Piggy recognizes my voice. The last time they were offered water was at 9:40 and I don’t know if that was morning or night. I get another guy (there are lots that work here) to cut the zip-ties on the cage doors so we have one less thing to worry about. He lets me open the door but reminds me not to let them out. We have to drive the car around to the inside of another gate to pick them up and the man who handled our paperwork hands me a bottle of water for the dogs which Piggy begins to drink immediately.

security badge

security badge

Caleb loads the crates into the car with Piggy beside me in the back seat and Sparky behind her with the seat folded down. I’m glad to have them in the air cooling down and it encourages Sparky to drink. We get dropped off in front, Caleb delivers the dogs to the front door, and I drag Sparky in as he’s releasing Piggy. We put their leashes on, take them outside and down the stairs. We walk past the apartments on the sidewalk, where Caleb gets hit in the face with a piece of paper blowing in the wind and laughed at by the four passing girls, and around the corner to the grass. As we are walking back a guy slowly approaches and I wonder if it’s because Caleb and I are holding hands. He says hi as he rolls away and I realize he either took a picture or a video.

getting a look at the dogs

getting a look at the dogs

Chief was telling us about the exotic feature of dogs in the area and I begin to wonder if it could be what the guy in the car was fascinated with. Back in the room the dogs will drink another few ounces and eat a bowl and a half of food each. Sparky is enjoying rubbing in the carpet and Piggy is cuddled behind Caleb’s legs on the couch – a good spot to type this using the wide arm. Time to let them pee again and then go to sleep ignoring the loud guys at the poolside lounge.

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Entering the Desert Where I Shall Dwell: Part One

first view of Bahrain

first view of Bahrain

Up in the air at 1am and breakfast is served 45 minutes later. We are given the option of a crêpe or omelette. We decide to get one each and share. I put some cherry jelly on my stuffed crêpe and go to take a bite of the apple that comes with it. I’m disappointed for a moment thinking I got dry apple slices before I realize they are warm potatoes, different but delicious. I also got a Valdiporro plum-cake, a Sterling Vipiteno strawberry yogurt, and a fruit cup with a ginger ale. Caleb’s omelet comes with sausage and mushrooms. I find the eggs off-putting and am satisfied with my first decision of the day.

second view of Bahrain

second view of Bahrain

I read to Caleb for a bit before we decide to watch The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Our screen seems to be the best quality – not losing signal and not too much of one color, though it’s not the biggest either. Those are reserved for the walls, but the picture is fuzzy. It’s such a neat feeling sitting on a plane at 4 in the morning watching the sunrise with people sleeping around you and a space show on TV called Gravity. The guy in front of us is passed out but has his headphones up loud enough that we can hear them. The guy across the aisle has taken advantage of his e-cigarette on this flight and is puffing away.

I put my sweater on to keep me warm but am keeping my shoes off and enjoying the cool air that circulates the smells of the plane. In a couple of hours I will be in the middle of Bahrain heat with no escape plan scheduled. Looking down at the lights in the water it could be Water World down there or tiny islands or floating houses. Some patches are packed brightly and others just little yellow and white lights that could be fishing boats.

a sign under the tent

a sign under the tent

My anticipation builds – as does the possible jet lag. We slept for most of a day, but traveling through time – six hours ahead in a day – makes me part sleepy with all the excitement that is coursing through my body. The sky is starting to light up like a flame on the horizon – from dark red to deep orange to a dandelion yellow to baby blue and finally melting into the royal blue sky. The sun will illuminate Bahrain upon our arrival.

our bags made it!

our bags made it!

What I thought was ocean was the vast sand desert of Saudi Arabia. It does help explain the erratic layout of roads and lights. I get to see a lot of the northern part of the island on our descent – a few buildings (enough to count on my hands), one visible road, and more tan than I’ve ever seen in my life. Then come the shades of tan houses, the fishing boats on the beach, and the few cars on the road at 5:40am. Then I see a patch of grass before we land and know that not all hope is lost.

I think it looks beautiful and has plenty of potential for snorkelling based on the changing colors in the water. We land and roll past the commercial airport and past the cargo terminal to a large hangar. From there we are escorted under a tent while the crew unloads our bags. It’s here that we find Senior Chief Madison who is here to see to his guys and YN1 that hands us invalid hotel reservations to the Golden Pearl – a hotel that doesn’t allow pets, just like all the other hotels that everyone else at the command is staying at.

we made it!

we made it!

A couple receives their dog from the bottom of the plane and he easily goes through a bottle of water and is tired and hot. I’m probably still warming up from being on the plane. Our bags are laid out on the ground and then we are told to clear them out of the road. All the guys are smoking and gossiping. I’m smiling at the local accent from the crew, thinking about today’s plans – getting a place to sleep and getting dogs, and wondering how long the housing brief is that we’ve been volunteered for at 8am – because we need more time to look for pet friendly places.

after customs, but before the parking lot, past the building full of guys with guns

after customs, but before the parking lot, past the building full of guys with guns

We grab our bags and get in line to go through customs – something the people who are going to live on a ship don’t need to do. The guys joke about missing the sand in their eyes and talk about how it’s not even that hot yet. My main concern is not getting a sunburn on my first day here. Inside, I show my passport and, ask and thy shall receive, the official stamps it. I’m excited and others decide to ask for it too. I put my bags on the scanner and then wait for Caleb while noticing they don’t care what’s in my bags and that my visa is only good for two weeks.

As we continue outside, Caleb tells me not to worry about it. That will be another fun process we get to worry about later. We go through a fence, by an office filled with guys carrying guns, to a parking lot with multiple buses and vans – all white – waiting to take all of us, about forty, and our bags to our destination – which will be nearby hotels for everyone but us. We will be going to The Dragon – the only pet-friendly hotel on the island that is still on the authorised list.

sample TLA form at Housing

sample TLA form at Housing

Senior gives Caleb the keys to a van, so we can sit and wait while he gets everyone else through customs and settled on a bus. I didn’t think it was hot outside until I sat under a vent in the backseat and felt something like brain freeze. Then I could start to look around at the dry cleaning on the balcony across the street and count the women that were wearing full dress – abaya (the robe), hijab (covers the hair and neck), and the niqab (covers the face) as they drove by on the dusty road.

a mural on a compound wall

a mural on a compound wall

Senior Chief drops off the navigation officer at his hotel in Juffair and then we head to base. In traffic a lot of the women are fully covered and the vans surrounding us are packed with people sitting three or four men across – carpooling to the max. I try to get some video, but all the buildings are surrounded by tall walls or are not allowed to be photographed – military, police, government, religious. I’m impressed with the sparkling of the water with minimal trash floating at the surf and the tall and shiny buildings in the distance – all the places Caleb never had the time or people to go with and see.

The street lights are arrows and when going from red to green has a flash of yellow in-between. I was already known for being the photographer on the flight and my reputation will follow me here. We park in a rocky dirt lot – really close to other cars ensuring you can practice your turning and reversing skills and learn the size of your vehicle. It makes me nervous. I grab my purse out of the van and join the other van of guys walking towards base. There are parking lot attendants that helped us find a parking spot and then offered to wash the van while we are gone. We decline.

located in the Diplomatic Area of Manama

located in the Diplomatic Area of Manama

Caleb points to a To Let sign on a nearby wall and announces that it’s missing the I. Later at the brief the petty officer giving the presentation will let the noobs know that this means To Rent, not toilet. Approaching the gate is a sentry that checks your ID and makes sure you’re on the military or contractor side of the wall or even allowed on base at all. Then there is a stop sign and you must wait to be called by one of the two sentries that will scan your ID. Behind them is a desk with another guard and to the right is a table where they conduct random bag checks – which I didn’t know at first when I walked over to the table and volunteered my bag only to be turned away.

hotels in Juffair

apartments in Juffair

On the left is a room for contractors and people being escorted on base to give up their ID for a visitor badge and then go through a metal detector. I go through a turnstile and wait for Caleb. We might joke about security in the States, but it seems to be efficient here. We go by the housing office, but it’s not time for the brief yet, so Caleb and I go to the Inn and Suites to make sure our hotel reservations have been updated to accommodate our dogs. While Caleb is doing that I go to the mini-NEX for water, peach tea, and a Rockstar.

With that taken care of, we have time to go to the big NEX with two floors so Caleb can show me around. There are fresh vegetables, a beer cooler, three brands of dog food, aisles of body and house cleaning supplies, a Walgreens-sized greeting cards section, along with sports equipment, camping gear, and car service supplies on the bottom floor. Upstairs is clothing, shoes, and purses on one side and all electronics on the other. There is also a food court, post office, liquor store, movie theatre, two-story gym, a barber shop, etc. in the same building.

living room as seen from hallway

living room as seen from hallway

We walk to the brief and get seated next to the fan on the right side at the end of the table at 8am. The brief was for E-7 and above so they could share the news with the rest of their command, but we were offered a spot so we could get a head start on finding a place that allows pets. The weekends here are Friday and Saturday, so we have the next two days off. It was relaxing to sit in a room of officers and joke with them about neighbors owning lions, not negotiating for a car with the rental lease, and listening to stories from CS1 about what others have done wrong – get everything in writing!

half bath in hallway

half bath in hallway

Two and a half hours later and we have to wait in line to sign-in to be seen by a counsellor who can enter our information into the computer and get our house searching process going. We are given a booklet explaining everything about renting in Bahrain – how much we can afford a month – BD1041 which equals $2,841.93 with internet and electric included. We’re also given two pages of real estate agents to contact during the five days we wait for housing to get back to us, so they can give us a tour of available places.

We will start by looking for villas in Amwaj Islands (where our hotel is), Juffair (near the base), and Busaiteen (recommended by one of the guys that does the security inspection). We go back to the NEX to buy a bag of dog food for the two dogs that should be arriving tonight – good thing their first impression of their new home won’t be in the middle of the day. Back to the dirt lot to get a ride to our temporary home and some of the cars have their windshield wipers up. The guys can’t seem to agree if that’s to show that they were washed and/or to keep them from melting to the windshield.

desk in the den

desk in the den

On return to the van, the attendant asked if we wanted movies. They are pirated, so quality can be questionable. We decline again. Driving through parking lots might be scary, but the roads seem easy enough during the day. There are plenty of arrows on the road and signs letting you know which way (or lane) to drive in. The signs are in Arabic and English, but you need to know which neighborhoods to go through to get to the one you need. We are told to be at the indoc brief on Sunday at 8am when the work week starts.

couch in the den

couch in the den

the second half…

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Leaving America

caption

nearing Azores Islands

My phone said it was 12:45am when I set my alarm. It was on airplane mode and I don’t know how long we had been flying for. I was the last one with my reading light on. I set the alarm for 3:30, but was awoken at 2:00 (6:00 Azores time) to a bright and beautiful horizon – shades of orange and green in the distance with blue clouds over an indigo ocean. Some of the people around me seem to have stayed awake for the transition from X-Men to a cartoon with a girl riding a hummingbird. Their eyes are bloodshot and contrast with the color of the sun’s light seen from both my windows.

flying over the Azores Islands

flying over the Azores Islands

At 7:20 we pass the Corvo Island crater peeking through the cloud cover. I used the lavatory over the Atlantic Ocean as the intercom announced our descent. I hurried back to my seat but there is no land in sight until I spot the island under a pile of clouds seeing only the outline of the surf hitting the shore. We arrive at Lajes Field Airport on Terceira Island of the Azores archipelago, Portugal at 7:40am. The countryside is beautiful. We are taxied in the plane, then bused over to the waiting area – from door to door supervision – with outlets, vending machines, phone banks, and chairs.

Terceira Island

Terceira Island

We are stuck for two and a half hours inside except for pet owners that are allowed to walk in the fenced-in parking lot. Smokers get to go into an enclosed room and just through the door leading to there I’m overwhelmed with the smell, but step in to get a picture of the mural and I can imagine that the walls are yellow around the corner. I’ll wait my turn and eventually charge my electronics, but we figured a seat by the window was more important. Some people laid on the floor and others were quick to load up on snacks.

mural in Lajes Field Airport

mural in Lajes Field Airport

Back on the bus, back on the plane, and it doesn’t seem any emptier than before. I actually think we picked up some new people along with trinkets and postcards to be sent home. We are due in Naples, Italy at 5pm and it’s 11am here when we start to roll on the runway. It will be dark when we reach Chania, Crete, Greece and I was looking forward to the view. I’m wishing we would’ve taken our second boxed meal with us to snack on. I’m starting to get hungry, but there should be another meal served, or so I’ve been told.

standing at the outlet bar

standing at the multi-outlet bar in Lajes

The plane is in the air and the hot towels already offered. A stewardess comes around and tells me to close the window. I ask her why, she reaches over me, closes it, and tells me, “So people can sleep.” I open it back up and let her know I enjoy the view and look around to see no one having an issue with the light coming in my window. These guys are coming from work, leave, and days on planes – if they are tired they will sleep and my window will have nothing to do with it. I didn’t appreciate her rude behavior, but not enough to do anything about it.

peeking out the window at Lajes

peeking out the window at Lajes

Apparently one guy was sleeping so well that he missed the last flight’s meal and had to be woken up by employees cleaning and restocking the plane and given a personal bus ride to the station where the rest of us were. We all got to talking and one guy was telling us how his mom duct taped mittens to his hands to keep him from scratching his chicken pox. A guy beside him wondered if it was because he was growing his nails – because people are born without them now?! They gave him a pass saying that he could already be jet-lagged. This same confused individual wants to get a tattoo, “To be great is to be misunderstood.”

leaving Lajes

leaving Lajes

Lunch was chicken and rice with coleslaw, chocolate cake, and cheese with crackers. We arrive in Naples at 4:30pm and are allowed to de-board at the rear of the plane and walk to the waiting lounge. I enjoy the bit of exercise, but still wish to be taking photos. I get a Pinwheels (chocolate covered marshmallow) from the USO and a bag of Cheetos, then brush my teeth. We sit at a table with Kyle Lejune Keller (the guy with the lemon towel) and chat while waiting for people to open the bathroom door and be surprised to find someone in there – so much for locking or knocking.

en route to Naples

en route to Naples

When I’m done eating we can explore more of the airport. There is a playroom for kids and a café with knickknacks – decorative plates, snow globes, and teacups – on the shelf. There are two floors here. The bottom where all the coming and going is had, and the top floor where all the waiting is to be done. It seems we are leaving some people here as I see a guy outside make his way around the corner with wheeled luggage in each hand, with bags on top of them, and a bag on his shoulder. Three hours after landing and we are called to go back through security – IDs out and shoes off.

Mount Vesuvius, part of the Campanian volcanic arc

Mount Vesuvius National Park, part of the Campanian volcanic arc

 

While we were waiting a command was looking for one of their men. Turns out he had walked to the gym to take a shower. Part of me applauds his bravery, but the other part thinks he was dumb for doing so and I’m not trying to do anything to compromise me meeting my dogs at the airport when they arrive. The heat is flowing freely on the plane and the stench has already been growing. The seats are finally emptying out and guys are spreading out so they can stretch their legs while they nap. I don’t want to give up my window seat – and I’m having no trouble sleeping here using Caleb to cuddle with.

Mount Vesuvius surrounded by 3 million residents, last eruption in March 1944

Mount Vesuvius surrounded by 3 million residents, last eruption in 1944

I started to read for a while and then realized I had read the same paragraph three times. I put the book away and snuggled up with Caleb. I was about to go to sleep when I saw the food and drink carts getting pushed up the aisle at 8pm. I stared at the TV screen to keep me awake until our tuna sandwich with Taralli cookies, Gran Merenda biscuits, and fruit cup arrived. Ate, looked out the dark window, then I went to sleep an hour later. I woke up three hours later to darkness and Chuck on TV. I listened to some music until the plane started its descent at 10:15pm and I was able to get some blurry photos of the island with the light of the full moon.

when in Naples, drink coffee like the locals

when in Naples, drink coffee like the locals

Another de-boarding and another bus – this one mostly standing room – and we are delivered to our next room to wait for two hours while they clean, refill, and unpack the bags of those people who are staying. They sell sandwiches, lots of liquor, and a large variety of chocolates. One guy buys a four-euro Gatorade. We sit down to read, but the lighting is dim and my eyes quickly get heavy. We get up to walk around, talk with some guys from Caleb’s command and I get a mini box of Smarties and half a Kit-Kat bar from them, and then walk around some more. One of the guys bought two bottles of wine and we wonder if they will be allowed into Bahrain. There’s a lot of movement and announcements and we hope to be leaving soon.

leaving Naples

leaving Naples

Traveling like this feels like being blindfolded while driving through Yellowstone National Park. You can sense the awesomeness around you, but it’s all too far away to see or take pictures of. This day concludes over 24 hours in and out of airplanes and airports. We’ve crossed six time zones today, three yesterday, and have one more to look forward to. My body is confused on being tired and hungry and I don’t know what time of which day it is. I sleep between meals when I can’t keep my eyes open, but part of me wants to have a regular 17-hour day and I feel like an infant – wake, move around, eat, sleep, repeat – it’s all part of the grand adventure.

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Last Day In the United States

Tristan taking a selfie

Tristan taking a selfie

Tristan woke up at 5am, but grandma and great-grandma weren’t ready to get up yet, so they lay him between them and went back to sleep. I got out of bed at 7am when Kris got up and Caleb followed. Kris made eggs, canned biscuits, bacon, and potatoes in grease for breakfast with a bowl of fresh blueberries and strawberries, and a pot of coffee at 8am.

Tristan hanging out with Uncle Caleb

Tristan hanging out with Uncle Caleb

Tristan woke up again and Caleb and I took turns holding him. He is way cuter now than he was in his first picture. Caleb was holding Tristan when his head slammed into my leg. I picked him up and then hung out at the table while we talked for a while more before we had food to shove in our mouths. Eventually we got around to working on the large Majestic puzzle made up of irregularly shaped pieces making the process of putting pencils and erasers together even more fun and time-consuming.

Tristan finding his feet with Aunt Jess

Tristan finding his feet with Aunt Jess

I was waiting for everyone to take a shower, but Bubbie hadn’t moved in a while, so I chose to be next in line. She decided it was her turn while Caleb was in there and went in after him. I didn’t realize how dirty I was until I felt how clean I was after. I have two more biscuits and a bottle of Snapple peach tea. We work on the pencils and paperclips puzzle until 3:30 when we decide that should give us enough time to get back to Norfolk.  At a red light, these teenage girls pull up, and when they notice the old guy on the phone next to them with his window down they belt out the obscenities (to the song) an octave higher. 

Caleb's photo of his nephew and wife

Caleb’s photo of his nephew and wife

There’s a chance of rain and some light sprinkling, but most of the heavy stuff came earlier while we were eating breakfast. Caleb drives us all the way back to Virginia Beach by 6pm and while en route we find out that the return trip (within 24 hours) on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge is now full price. I called Yellow Cab on the way there and the driver arrived 15 minutes after us. We were going to get a ride from an old friend, but he wanted us to get a ride from Kris’ house to his (half the distance to the airport) and I didn’t want to chance that he wouldn’t be able to complete the distance and make us call another cab.

Tristan getting changed

Tristan getting changed

The driver was quiet at first, but he perked right up and talked with us until we were parked in front of the glass doors of the AMC terminal. He wished us well and smiled more when he realised I tipped him, more than I usually would, but I was feeling generous to the guy that helped make one part of this long journey a little more happy and a lot less stressful even though the rate is $2.70/mile. We walked into the tiny airport, took off our shoes, showed our IDs, and I asked to take a picture of the ‘Not a Joking Matter’ sign in reference to bombs. One of the guards asked what the importance of a photo was and I told him I’d never seen that sign before (and I’m documenting a life changing event!).

Caleb looking at Tristan

Caleb looking at Tristan

At the check-in counter we are asked about our pet – you mean the one you said you wouldn’t take, but apparently still have room for, that one? Well then, put your bags on the scale and then yourself. We need to know how much this flight will weigh. I suppose they can only do this for military personnel and family who have waived their rights. I’m sure there would be an outrage if people started seeing scales and seamstress tape at the ticket and/or baggage counters.

Tristan eating orange and Kris and Vicki wearing orange too

Tristan eating orange and Kris and Vicki wearing orange too

We checked in and our flight was due to leave three hours earlier than originally scheduled. Luckily Caleb got a notice via email so we weren’t late. We headed upstairs at 7pm to the USO for mac-n-cheese and a poppy seed muffin and then found a seat with an outlet near gate 2. I took two books, Antebellum (rapper goes back in time and becomes a slave) and Operation Mincemeat (a spy story about WWII) because they seemed like the most interesting reads amongst all the romance and fiction.

Tristan and Vicki helping with the puzzle

Tristan and Vicki helping with the puzzle

I grabbed a book out of my bag that Caleb had finished reading and donated it to the USO book shelf. We sat there until Caleb’s phone charged and a smelly man sat down beside us causing us to get up and look around some more. We took the elevator to the third floor – an office space, and then back down to the first floor so we could walk back up to the second. Then I went into the bathroom to read all the signs they have posted about stress management, sexual harassment, and human trafficking.

Ocean City Bascule Bridge

driving west on Ocean City Bascule Bridge

We line up at 9:30 and talk with the other people circled around us – all active duty – some going to Italy, one to Diego Garcia, and the rest to Bahrain. We will also be making stops in Portugal and Greece with no sightseeing allowed. Families with children were boarded first, then in order of destination, and I watched other people’s dogs get loaded on the conveyor belt. I’m grateful that mine are in a nice cabin in a box somewhere instead of underneath the plane where it’s dark and cold.

a friendly tree in Kris' yard

a friendly tree in Kris’ yard

Dad called – our last call together in the States for a while. We are seated in row 34, seats A and C because there is no B. We are buckled up by 10pm, and taking selfies, among many Navy guys and the conversation starts flowing until a mother asks us to tone down the language. We get our safety briefing at 10:30 and get our crotches checked for shiny bits (seatbelt buckles) by the people in uniform with neck scarves and ties – ah, the topics of sailors, and those prior enlisted.

Kraft Macaroni & Cheese from the USO

Kraft Macaroni & Cheese from the USO

We take off 15 minutes later. For those that didn’t pass out as soon as we were off the ground they will be offered a warm, lemony scented, towel 25 minutes into the flight causing the cabin lights to come back on so that the stewardesses can pass out headphones and towels –  and just as I’m about to take a picture of a cloud full of lightning. The guy in the middle row next to us indulged me by posing for a photo.

a sign in the bathroom at the airport

a sign in the bathroom at the airport

Caleb asked earlier how I felt about going to a country where I don’t know anyone. My reply was that with him and the navy it would be easy, that and my ability to make friends. If I were literally going alone I would be nervous about finding a hotel and a rental car and walking the streets at night, but hopefully more prepared than I feel we are learning of changes last-minute and struggling with every detail. X-men is playing on the TVs with lots of static interruptions. We are due to land in Azores, Portugal at 7am (a four-hour time difference from Norfolk).

Norfolk at night

Norfolk at night

Dinner comes around – chicken or beef – neither, but I will take the box with carrot cake, Rubschlager biscuit, sliced potatoes, Tillamook cheddar cheese and Club crackers inside. It’s 11:45pm, the drink cart comes by and I get a cranberry juice and Caleb a ginger ale. I start to sing, ‘sippin’ on gin and juice’ and the stewardess adds in, ‘laid back’. We split our box of goodies and the box of chicken with rice and veggies that Caleb got. We might be eating the rest of this for breakfast unless we can get off the plane to buy something just for the sake of being in a foreign airport.

warm, lemony goodness

warm, lemony goodness

The plane is lively and people who were resting are now awake. I wonder if the food will put them back to sleep or revive them. Either way I will get back to reading about a great man and his journey while waiting for the cabin lights to go out so I can see the clouds and maybe a glimpse of the ocean. I fight dozing off in fear that I will miss something. I have such difficulty sleeping on trips, but with the time change and day and a half of travel to look forward to, closed eyes will be inevitable.

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