Couchsurfers BBQ

 

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Era Tower

Caleb and I had breakfast at Lilou’s. I ordered fried eggs wrapped in vermicelli noodles served in mini frying pans. We walked to PSD (personnel support detachment) to talk about Caleb’s pay as the man behind the counter noticed a few problems – they canceled pay, only paid for one of us to travel, and didn’t pay him enough.

Caleb walked me to the car and I dropped him off in front of the NEX (Navy Exchange) so he could take the pedestrian bridge to the other side of the base. The temperature is 93 degrees and some humidity. I drove to the Lagoon to join Eloise, Carole, Lindy, and Kendra at 11:30; they’d been at Tea Club since 10 am and we stayed another hour and a half.

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Jo and Doc in the pool

The Couchsurfers BBQ group had made plans for tonight, but nothing else was said. There was a half eaten pizza at Tarik’s when I showed up, so we ate it. We started drinking and met another couchsurfer that lives in the tower, Juan from Indiana. He’s been a middle school principal for seven years in Bahrain. We ate bread and meat and I jumped in the pool but got right back out; it was too cold for me.

The ten of us went upstairs at 3 am when the maintenance guy asked us to. Jo and Doc cooked chicken sausages with more bread and got some candy from the building’s store to share. We all split ways by 4:30 and I was home before sunrise.

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A Hijab for Ashura

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Caleb took his bike to duty so that I could stay home and kill a thousand ants. I need to call the bug guy. I met Eloise at her place at 11:20 and she served us a lunch of samosas, bread, and stuffed pastries. I left two hours later to nap for three hours. I went to Lulu’s for Raid after having put down cinnamon in hopes to control the ants while I was gone. 

I got home at 6 pm and soon after drove to Bahrain Mall. I missed the Muharraq turn and had to go close to Priya’s house and take her route to work to get there to find a hijab. There were nice ones for 12 dinars and cotton ones for 7, but I decided to try the souq. The first shop wanted two dinars and I put my abaya on in the store and wrapped the hijab around my head. 

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Out into the street and it began to fall off. I let half my hair hang out as I walked towards a black flag area with almost everyone in black mourning the martyrdom of Hussein Ibn Ali over 1,300 years ago. I grabbed a juice, one of the many options on offer, and went into an air-conditioned room with art on display; one section with women actively painting. I could’ve spent more time in there looking and getting stared at. This opens my eyes to a different side of Bahrain that many expats aren’t privy too.

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I’m grateful and felt out-of-place, but so at home. I was thrilled to be able to see this and to see others taking pictures so that I knew I could take one too. (I went to this event without prior knowledge of what else takes place). I was adjusting my hijab and a girl helped readjust it in a shop. I need to get some hairpins as that’s their trick. 

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Back on the street, I walk past the mosque and another parade. Summer is over but the humidity is more noticeable with an added layer of clothes on. I walked back to the main part of the souq so I could remove my abaya.

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Shopping for Laughs

shopping with Caleb

shopping with Caleb

Caleb has the day off and tries waking me at 8am – at least one of us is sleeping in. I don’t budge until he goes downstairs to do dishes and then lay in bed while I listen to him sew. He fixes my baggy pants, a pair of shorts from the souq, and starts on my shawl/hijab. Then he hems one of my skirts up by four inches so I don’t have to roll it up three times to keep from tripping on it.

Breakfast is an apple smothered in peanut butter – healthy, crunchy, and delicious. We head to base and get to the gate before Caleb realizes he forgot his ID. The guard would’ve let him on with his driver’s license, but the base has upped security, so we wait while they log the incident and then turn around. I drop him off to walk to Dome while I go back on base. I get in line at the Post Office after helping a woman in front of DHL shove some carpets in a box only to be told she has to repackage them because they’re over the 70 pound limit by eleven.

view from City Centre Mall parking lot

view from City Centre Mall parking lot

I mail the naval paddles to Coleman and Sperry in San Diego for $24, then go in the NEX to buy straight razors and senior dog food. I walk to the other end of the Freedom Souq to drop Caleb’s blues off at the dry cleaners and am told they won’t roll his neckerchief. I pick him up and he has an Espreski with Snickers on top in-hand. He already downed his. I drink mine on our way home to get his ID.

We let the dogs out and head to City Centre Mall to pick up the dress that I tried on twice the other day but didn’t buy because of the price tag. We end up buying three for half the price of some of the single dresses we’ve seen, but also triple the price of what we could find. We go to Seef Mall to look for Red Tag and Twenty4 with no luck, but almost get me a pair of gray ankle boots. I want to try them on with socks as that’s what I’d be wearing them with. My feet were slipping around in them due to sweating in my sandals.

fun in Priya's office

fun in Priya’s office

We went over to the Zain building at 5pm to sit with Priya until she got off work at 5:22 instead of 5:30. We spent the time sipping on coffee and playing with stamps. We were able to get on base with only one group in front of us, use the toilet, sit in the second row back, then go to the food court for a cranberry-granola thing for me and a stale brownie with marshmallows on top for her before the comedy show started after 6pm.

The Band of Brothers Comedy Show is inspired by the work of Bob Hope, so the comedians wrote a ditty in the military’s honor. Praise be to all service members and their families and spouses, etc. Some of the guys know how to beatbox which was impressive and they all have embarrassing moves of their own. The first act is supposed to warm up the crowd, and that’s what it did, but with fewer laughs than I expected.

card signed by Band of Brothers comedians

card signed by Band of Brothers comedians

The guys increased in hilarity and by the time the headliner was on stage I was being called out on my freakiness. Keith had tried getting the girl in uniform to interact with him, but she wouldn’t move and a guy in the crowd had responded to going on a blind date, but froze up and wouldn’t give details. I pointed to Priya to share the moment, but Keith said she was too quiet. Perhaps I learned my lesson for being one in three of the women in the room and sitting in the front – always do it because it’s more fun than sitting in the back.

After the show we got in line to get a card signed by the Band of Brothers and Brett wrote, ‘Wave his freak flag’ on mine. Priya wrote her name instead of spelling it to one of the guys and we were out of there by 8pm. We decided home was the best option so we could get back to doing laundry. I put the clothes in the dryer at 9pm, we split my leftover caprese sandwich, then Caleb got out some noodles and pushed play on episode four of Orange Is the New Black.

Caleb eats and then cuddled with Sparky on the couch for the duration of the show. I took the sheets out of the dryer and Caleb made the bed. I thought about the brownness of our mostly white sheets and the cleanliness of Caleb’s head. I add sheets and shampoo to my list of things to buy and he suggests color-safe bleach – if only I could pour that on the house and let the heat evaporate the dirt and smells of living in Bahrain with two dogs and an engineer in the navy.

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Caleb’s Tour of Bahrain

majlis (guest room)

majlis (guest room)

Caleb wanted to get out of the house today and I was surprised that he had an itinerary to accomplish such. I didn’t get up until 9:30, but breakfast didn’t slow us down and soon we were u-turning (one of the many Bahraini pastimes) to find parking near the Beit Al Qur’an which translates to the House of Qur’an – the history and versions of, not like the house of God full of people. No photos allowed or I would’ve taken plenty.

We walked in and there is a mosque to the left full of men and women coming off the elevator from their prayer area. We assure the man at the desk that we are only here to see the museum, not trample through a sacred area in what we’re wearing. I think the next room only consists of a few cases of old pottery, and I suppose to an extent I’m right, but Caleb is the one to notice that it leads to a large room full of books and art and ramps.

the kitchen, Al Jasra House

the kitchen, Al Jasra House

There is one other guy in there and cases full of different versions of the Qur’an from around the Islāmic world. It is neat seeing Allah’s words translated into German and Chinese. There is a circular Qur’an that would fit in the palm of my hand and an octagonal one with a matching case. I can only begin to appreciate the quality of workmanship that goes into making these and the need for protecting what Muslims believe in with a case of matching beauty.

Some of the books are hundreds of years old and I’ve held one before that was due its century celebration and know how fragile the pages can become. These books aren’t being read anymore and many of them come from other collections from people who found it worthy to preserve the past from enemies, weather, and time. Upstairs are larger versions that need stands to be held; scrolls that are thin and short but very long, and artistic tapestry meant to adorn the walls of the wealthy.

a room for sleeping

a room for sleeping

Speaking of… you’ve done well when the road to your house has pictures of you on light poles, and your personal roundabout is surrounded by lush greenery and armed guards. Caleb took a blurry photo of the Shaikh Isa Palace entrance as I quickly turned around. He meant for us to visit the house, one of the oldest in the area built around 1800, so that we could get an idea of the grandiose lives of royalty. Their palaces average the size of three to four Bahraini villages – which alone can cause conflict.

Next on Caleb’s list of sights to see is Al Jasra House, the famous birthplace of a former ruler that was restored in 1986 using the traditional materials of coral stone and palm-tree trunks. We park in the crushed-shell lot, walk past the building with the sign for toilets, take off our shoes, and step into a room with benches and vases, and are told by the two women sitting there that this is the only place photos aren’t allowed.

knock, knock

knock, knock

Outside we walk around the main house and have a look at the cat in the shade under a tree. I wish to join him. Inside the entry arch appears a man to collect the 500 fils each entry fee. Most of the rooms look the same – large carpets covering the floor; cushions lining the edges; and pictures, pots, and mirrors decorating the walls. The air conditioners in this old home might resemble the lifestyle of Bahrainis over 100 years ago, but if large couches replaced the floor cushions it could easily be mistaken for a current residence. 

I started getting hungry, so we drove to Tashan, near our next stop, and I ordered a falafel sandwich, a piece of round bread, and a bottle of water for take-away from Al Hantour Restaurant and was able to pay in fils (meaning lunch was $1.60). We walked to a bench in the shade where I sat and ate before we went around the corner to see the Al Khamis Mosque that is closed for remodelling. The entrance door is beautiful and it’s neat to walk around the neighborhood that I drive by to pick up and drop off Priya at home.

Al Khamis Mosque

Al Khamis Mosque

Not ready to go home, we drive to City Centre and choose Gloria Jean’s as our coffee spot. We pick a table in the back next to a mother teaching her son math and think about how nice it is to share moments like that with parents. I didn’t have the face time, but my dad used to call and give me long division problems over the phone. I’m grateful for my parents varying interest in my health and education – even when I don’t pursue it when given such an opportunity to do so.

Leaving Gloria’s we see three men in what seem to be Celtic togas with glitter bedazzled faces going down the escalator. Passing us is a 20-somethings semi-traditional Bahraini couple holding hands. I’m all about respecting religion and forgetting the advances of science and technology, but I’m more about friendship, romance, and equality; and being able to show those feelings with a public display of affection between men or women.

an entrance in a door

an entrance in a door

A crowd starts to gather downstairs as the lights on the modelling stage come on. Most of the seats will remain empty for the show as people are too distracted by the women in dresses revealing their shoulders and knees for the upcoming season’s fashion – cover your whole body during summer and then show off your limbs in the winter. Just another way Bahrain is setting itself apart and remaining unique.

We join other viewers on the second and then first floor before going home to plug in Caleb’s phone so that it would turn on. This way I can take pictures of the shopping list before we go to Lulu’s where we would spend two hours collecting potatoes, leeks, cream, cheese, risotto, cider, phyllo, etc. Before we leave for the store, we walk the dogs, and stop by Eloise’s to pick up a thank you treat for watching her house – two ‘brownies’ hand delivered from Brazil by one of her best friends. They’re a circular cake with a fudge sauce in the middle covered in milk chocolate with white chocolate drizzle.

fashion show at City Centre Mall

fashion show at City Centre Mall

We stopped at Alosra on the way home and I wandered around to Mr. Squash while Caleb looked for what we couldn’t find at the hypermarket. I will walk the dogs again while he starts to cook. I’m glad we got to spend the day together exploring more of Bahrain, even if that means that Julie and Mel had to go without me to the souq, but we chose to watch TV instead of going to the Diggers Rock Fest at 8:30pm. Caleb gets enough of people and rules at work so he can appreciate a quiet night in to enjoy my company while he cuddles with Piggy on the couch.

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Thai Tea Tiramisu

 

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Monday:

Woke at 11 am and drove to Vibe Media, a company that helps boost brands through photography and film, around 2:30 and had some rum with the co-founder Ali M. Then the co-founder Hassan and friend Ali Q. went with me to get my oil changed for 17 dinars ($46). We drove and walked around, then went to Honey’s Restaurant near Manama Souq for dinner. A snack of tea and falafel was had hours later on the street before watching a wedding procession of cars honking and lights flashing down Shebab Avenue.

 

Tuesday:

I was able to walk dogs, braid my hair, and drive to City Centre Mall by 11 am. Did some browsing before meeting with Reika, Lisa, and Lindy (their husbands work on the ship next to Caleb’s) for lunch at Vapiano (a German restaurant that serves Italian) where you use a charge card to create a tab for your meal and then pay the total when you’re done with drinks, sides, or dessert. The first two ladies went grocery shopping, Lindy went home to write emails, and I was off to bra shop – found three.

I drove to SkyBar (a rooftop venue with empty hot tubs, curtained booths, and a large pool) to join Lisa and Reika for a sunset that we missed, and then got wine to go with our grape-mint sheesha. At 7 pm they headed to Royal Thai restaurant in the Gulf Hotel and I walked around Adliya (a Bohemian neighborhood) and Bin Salman Park– outside the gate because they were closed.

 

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Wednesday:

Picked up Lorelei at 11 am for the wives’ group lunch at Le Chocolat, a French café and bakery. We were joined by Yanell and her son Lucas, Veronica, Erin and Christy, Reika, Nikki and her daughter Adliya, and Jess and her son Everett. I ordered a caprese sandwich on brown bread that came with fries, a salad, and a chai tea. Lorelei bought some cake and we went to the base so I could check mail. 

Her husband, Chris, called that he was off work, so I waited with her until he got there and then went home. I drove to Dome Cafe at 6:30 pm and ordered a large white mocha. I was joined by Mel and we went upstairs for the Bahrain Minglers Meetup and were quickly joined by two, three, then five more people. I met a French guy with a name hard to pronounce (hence the helpful bracelet he was wearing) and Mel’s girlfriends, Julie and Kate who loves to laugh. 

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