Cansun Can Diego

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Flor de Caña rum display

Up at 4 am, 300 pesos of manga gasoline and a windshield wash without getting out of the car. Drop the car off, no issue, and have father and son (after the younger is woken from sleeping in the van) drop us to our terminal. Print out pass, check bag, and we are told that gate information is released one hour prior to departure.

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We walk around for an hour. I power through a 15 minute nap, then we wait by our gate for 30 minutes before they start boarding. Caleb is randomly selected for a secondary security screening (written on his boarding pass) and tries to pawn the small bag on me. They swab his hands and pockets, have him open the bags, then they zip them up.

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There’s plenty of open seats on the plane and I ask the woman next to me if she wanted the window (that she’s not using) when I should’ve shown her all the other seats she can have (or moved with Caleb).

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We land in Los Angeles and customs is a breeze. We walk to Rolling Stone Bar for a Thai salad with chicken and dressing on the side, so they left off the wonton strips too. I got some honey mustard to go with Caleb’s fries. Walk some more, have an oatmeal raisin (both natural and golden) cookie, walk more and then stop at Engine Co. No. 28 so he can have a beer. We walk to our gate.

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We enjoy interacting with Emilio (a toddler from Sweden on his way to visit family) as he plays with the handle on our bag. I watch a grandmother approach a girl and ask her if she speaks Spanish. The girl said, “I don’t understand” and I asked about the bathroom and pointed behind me before getting on our tiny flight for the final part of our trip.

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California coastline

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Kings of Cancun

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An orange muffin with yogurt (I’m developing a habit) before driving to the dive shop around 9 to get signatures, locations, and stamps in our dive books from Lore and Ulises.

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We visited El Rey Ruins and saw lots of iguanas, learned from a guide that it rains here (we already knew that), and sweat was rolling down my shirt. The ruins are the original main street and at the end is a forest of vampires (some call them mosquitoes). On our way out of the park a little boy took it upon himself to be disobedient so I scolded him and his mother didn’t approve, but it’s not my fault her kid wants to damage something that has stood for so long without his disrespect.

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We drove back to the room and had pancakes and popcorn as a snack before getting hungry again and walking into the Ramada because I saw a sign for sandwiches. Caleb got a roast beef sandwich with Roquefort and I had Nutella on ice (it looked better while he was making the other one).

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Caleb was ready for a nap after that but I talked him into staying up until I get hungry again. I was ready to get outta the house at 6 and we walked to Wal-Mart for spinach, eggs, carrot, and cheese for dinner and overnight oats again for breakfast, but this time with cantaloupe instead of pineapple.

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Back to the room and we settle down and eat some salad. I get the bottle of Bailey’s only to find out that Finn had finished most of it. I’m glad I don’t have to worry about it, but he is one rude person. The one night his friends do the dishes is the same night where they spend hours pouring beer on the floor and spreading the mess through the house.

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We shower and I blow dry my hair, probably more so than I should have since I forget how short the back is. Bags are packed and Caleb is regretting his food choices while I laugh to tears because of timing. (“My tummy hurts.” Fart. Pinches butt cheeks to toilet.)

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Why Listen to the Computer

 

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I chow down on a blueberry muffin with yogurt for breakfast (an old snack I introduced Caleb to years ago — back when we still ate sweetened yogurt and mini muffins from the market). This is our last day of diving in Cancun and we forget to bring the dive book. It’s a good thing the room isn’t far from the shop.

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yellow spotted stingray

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Lore is our guide and we’re free to stay within eyesight as she instructs a newbie. We leave the dock at 9 am, and it’s about an hour before we’re down in the water taking selfies. We hunt for fish and other creatures (spider crab, spiny lobster, brittle stars, scorpionfish, eels, squirrelfish) for 40 minutes and then take a 30 minute surface interval before going back down and having an eel approach me.

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Our computers limit our bottom time as they want us to wait a few more minutes, but Lore reassures us that our computers are super conservative and that we’ll be fine. We would be relying on her recommendation if we didn’t have our own, so down we go. I stay down ten minutes past my bottom time and skip five of the eight minutes at the safety stop because everyone else was ready.

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scorpionfish camouflage — so beautiful and deadly

My watch beeps angrily at me for a minute and then tells me no dive/fly for 48 hours and turns off the dive planning capability. Lesson learned and I will allow this fancy gadget to do its job without me interfering more than I already do with my ascension rates.

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We tip Lore, as she rinses our gear, and Ulises before going for hotcakes and divorciados eggs (one with green sauce, the other red, and sometimes beans between) for lunch and a burger for Caleb. I bring two pancakes back to the room at 3 pm and we try to grow barnacles on the couch till 6 pm after sharing the arugula egg salad we made days ago.

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pan to plate to palate

Caleb puts on shoes and it’s back to 100% Natural for dinner. I get wild mushroom tacos and a prehispanic drink (maize, cocoa, cinnamon, etc. with sparkling water). The staff remembers us and gives us some bread and salsa too.

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roundabout to dinner

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Do you Nintendo?

On the way back to the room, I hail a cab on our right, just done at the convenience store, for a girl to my left looking at oncoming traffic. Finn came in drunk this morning and left the place more sticky and disgusting. He doesn’t crawl out of his room till 5 pm and we can hear him now at 8 pm, but will stay in the safety of our bed.

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looking for the muffin man

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Hot Hero with Queso

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one fish, two fish, scuba diver, blue fish

Yogurt and a Snickers for breakfast before a day of diving. The wreck dive would take us to 81 feet and allow swim throughs, cutting my pinky on something, and seeing a few lion fish with a couple that’s now local that met in Guadalajara and moved here seven months ago (she’s from Australia) and Ulysses our guide. Our next dive would be 40 minutes later in a sandy and grassy area with a turtle on the surface and a pufferfish below. We average 40 feet swim depth and stay under for 48 minutes.

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swimming through a wreck

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swimming out the forecastle 

We’re swimming along and Caleb is taking videos and I get his attention to a moray that makes me feel like the little mermaid — full of wonder — as he opens his mouth and reveals the robins egg blue color inside. What I didn’t know was that eels have a pharyngeal jaw that they thrust into their mouth to grab prey and then pull them into their throat and digestive system. I suppose that’s where the mini snake coming out of the larger snake idea comes from in the movies.

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another exit, another view

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There are schools of blue, yellow, and grey fish among the few sole fish, striped shrimp, porkfish, sea cucumbers, and Christmas tree worms among the bubble gum-like algae growing on wreck and reef. We return to the dive shop for our intermission — surface interval, lunch of sandwiches and salt-free water, and to pick up another diver. Dany, from Beijing, would join us for the underwater museum and the reef wall with his new GoPro Hero 6, as he unwraps his $400 purchase as we get underway.

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underwater art

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Christmas tree worms (Spirobranchus giganteus)

Ulises was worried about the waterproof depth (which we wouldn’t surpass), but Dany didn’t know enough about this camera to have it ready for the dives, so he asked if any of us had a spare GoPro he could borrow. Divers are known to bring extra goggles, gloves, batteries, o-rings, and snacks, etc., but never a spare camera should you think to put yourself in the same position. Caleb offered instead to lend his wife’s time to get some footage of this guy so he could complete the video he is making of his travels.

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the people of MUSA

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underwater museum selfie

The MUSA (Museo Subacuático de Arte) was created as an alternative to the Manchones Reef to divert tourist destruction (hands, fins, anchors) and create the world’s biggest artificial reef with the help of locals who were the molds for most of the statues; of which there are about 400 human figures and one hundred other sculptures. There are over 20 replicas on land at Plaza Kukulcán for those not interested in snorkeling, diving, or sitting on a glass-bottom boat.

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swim over the people

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das auto der fische

We swim up to the statues and I take the tourist-blocking-the-view photo and I will take another one ten minutes later with Caleb and Dany in the background. Dany lets me know he’s ready for me to video. I hold myself steady and watch as he does a ‘hungry power to the people’ thing with his arm. He will ask for a second video, but I only pretend on that one. I take a picture of Caleb next to the businessmen with their heads in the sand, just one of the ways people interact with their environment.

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as seen from behind

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my mellow yellow

Then I look at the men from behind, not to see if they work out, but to see the round stingray with his buddy fish. We see more schools of blue and yellow fish, a lionfish, some more rockfish, and a remora (also known as a suckerfish attached to sharks and whales) on our way to the surface. I rode stretched out on the front of the boat next to my wet clothes on the ride back. I don’t know if I got sunburned from that or diving without a suit on 3 out of 4 dives.

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Air, Boat, Caleb

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must see all the fish

We walked through the Chedraui Supermarket before dinner and bought donuts and muffins for breakfast tomorrow. We dropped them at the house for exercise and so I could eat a donut before going back to the taco cart for dos pollo con queso tacos.
We stop at the convenience store on the corner for a drink and some chips before bed at 10pm. I will help Caleb edit the footage and email it to Dany when we get back.

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Nature Naturally Nurtures

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driving to dive

Not feeling that hungry I eat half the yogurt granola cup but not the arugula egg salad we made too. We get to the dive shop 15 minutes early and park to the left of the stairs. Our driver and the Brazilian couple who will join us arrive at 7am. The driver drinks coffee with his headphones in while we all nap before getting to Playa del Carmen an hour later (with speeds up to 120km/h). The driver introduces us to Claudio, who will be our guide, and who preps our gear while the other two groups diving from the same boat arrive.

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pleased post

We wait in the sand and I attempt to find shade on the side of a truck. I see all the boats tied up and try to follow their ropes that disappear into the sand. One boat of divers are bringing guns to catch dinner; the only weapon I shoot is a (was going to use a Canon joke here) GoPro to catch smiling sharks and frowning fish. I remove my flip-flops for the walk through sea grass and thigh-high water. I find my tank, where I’ll be sitting, and have Caleb to my left and another dive buddy, girl from Germany, to my right.

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growing green

It’s a 45 minute boat ride to the first dive site and not much conversation with the sun, wake, and wind that’s hitting the guys in the back while I sit in the shade with the breeze through my hair. I’m the fourth in the water via one giant stride forward but the last one to the bottom (I’m a slow equalizer). The couple goes down dating and comes up engaged. The guy got on his knee in the sand and presented the ring, but their GoPro was dead at the surface, so they did not get proof.

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see the sea turtle swallow the small tunicate

The German girl begins to surface and then stays within five feet of it and follows us from there (turns out this was her fourth dive and she was having trouble with the pressure in her ears). I’m glad Claudio is so adaptable as he was also busy buddy breathing (two people on one air tank) with the new engaged groom while guiding the rest of us on a dive, with 40 minutes bottom time, so that the soon-to-be-bride could point out the sea turtle as we were ready to end the dive.

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they’re not all yellow — spotted moray and arrow crab

I have a banana and half a hoagie of cheese and tomato (less flopping about while diving equals less appetite after) during our 40 minute surface interval before taking a giant stride off the back of the boat for round two. As I’m descending, a surfer looking merman approaches me to make sure my ears and air are ok, but I let him know it’s not me he has to worry about. I realize the guides talked and he’s here as a spare tank of air for the fiancé. As he retires to the boat the fiancé goes back to Claudio to complete our 50 minute dive at a shallower depth.

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dusty daisies

We see a couple of eels, tons of crabs (at least their cribs and eyes), a lobster with a friend, and a ray in the distance. I’ve learned that most rays are accompanied by a cleaning fish and love the other-species buddy system in nature, especially when some animals eat their own young. This makes humans such awkward creatures as we make laws to enforce kindness/dominance upon our own species and attempt to share it with other animals as they fit our needs for food, farming, fun, and friendship.

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shameless selfie

I ride with my eyes closed, possibly half asleep, with my wetsuit on and unzipped back to the beach and wait for Caleb to prep our bags for me to help carry. The driver loads the gear in the back and turns up the a/c so I can sleep in the middle with my sleeves off in a warmer environment back to Cancun, and to the room as Caleb drives. I try to describe the amount of exhaustion I feel and know something is not right. Caleb just wants to get me in the house and helps to remove my wetsuit while I sit limp on the bed.

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Frida Kahlo facing the kitchen

I pee out my butt and lay down (or get pulled into a sleep position by Caleb) for a three-hour nap with an open bag of fig snacks. I think it’s the next morning when I wake at 6 pm and am ready to eat before we dive. Caleb agrees we can eat, but also get more sleep before tomorrow. I eat the Danone Oikos con Frutos Verdes en el Fondo (“Oikos with green fruit in the background” — apple, kiwi, grape) Greek yogurt before we walk to 100% Natural for dinner.

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cardiac caricature

Caleb orders an appetizer and a green juice (mostly celery) to share and I eat half my Basque-style pancakes (sourdough) with mixed berries and cream cheese so we can get back to the room because I will poo at the restaurant and again back at the house. I sleep from 830 to 1130, through Finn and his friends drinking and cooking nachos. I will poo again and have more pancakes and water. I didn’t know if it was street meat (food poisoning), the bends (fatal bubbles in my body), or lupus (an 85% women disease), but as I lay in a slumber of sickness Caleb had been on Google.

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sensuously simple

The internet told him that my symptoms meant I had heat exhaustion. I was hot, tired, and achy and swimming against a current in an unneeded 7mm wetsuit in a high humidity environment with a lack of sunscreen that leads to cooked skin that wasn’t helping my condition. I fall back asleep only to wake at 1 am in a sweat to pee. Caleb is having trouble sleeping with all the noise and my tossing about. He insists I drink more water and says we will get some Gatorade before our four dives tomorrow before asking me to message Nina, our hostess, about the noise and lights being left on.

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