Only for Certain People

Posted on September 3, 2013 by TheJessicaness
school in Nicodemus

school in Nicodemus

If last night wasn’t romantic enough, this morning proves even more so. We get to watch the sunrise on the water, take a shower together, and drink fresh made coffee. We thought about washing in the lake, but that moment didn’t last long after we dipped our fingertips in. We arrive at Nicodemus National Historic Site early as usual. We were only camped 15 minutes away. The town, or what remains of it, is what we are here to see. This is where African-Americans were able to become pioneers in the States and set up their own community that remains an all-Black town to this day.

And because people still live here there only needs to be the usual buildings available to the public’s eye – Township Hall/visitor center, St. Francis Hotel/Switzer residence, Old First Baptist Church, African Methodist Episcopal Church, and the School District Number One. These buildings were starting to be established in 1877 and church services were discontinued in the 1950s and classes stopped being offered in the 1960s when the population of the town diminished.

Van Gogh replica

Van Gogh replica

It might not look like much now, but in the 19th century with some 300 settlers and their horses, the dugouts  turned into homes, stores, shops, fraternal organizations, and a bank. The railroad chose a route further south from the town and it began to dwindle – the Great Depression didn’t help either. Today’s population is around thirty people and for anyone that’s ever lived in a small town – you know you can’t do much without everyone else knowing. We had taken the dogs with us on the first walk when we knew everything was closed, but on the second walk to get a better peek at the AME Church a local commented on our love of walking – any faster and one would miss this place.

I sat patiently outside the visitor center waiting on the ranger. She was only five minutes late and showed me where to start the video promptly. It showed the history of the town and the effect it still has on descendants today – this is a great starting point for their freedom – where their family was willing to toil in the difficult earth to farm so that one day their kids could live the American Dream as all citizens had been promised. They still meet annually at the Emancipation/Homecoming Celebration in July to honor family, liberation, history, and food.

beauty at Sand Creek

beauty at Sand Creek

We stop in Hill City (where everyone seems to be over the hill) to buy some snacks. Our next stop won’t be for another hour and 45 minutes. We pull over to put our eyes on the largest Van Gogh replica of Three Sunflowers in a Vase and easel in Goodland, Kansas standing tall at 80 feet – the tallest thing for miles, but not as tall as Mount Sunflower at 4,039 feet. Seeing this art is inspirational and I let Caleb have his second time at the wheel so I can write some sunflower inspired poetry while we drive to Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site.

Here is an excerpt of my writing: Fields of yellow, Hearts of mellow, The way I felt, When you said hello. Corn and wheat, Words of sweet, Sunflower seeds, In your arms I need. Rays of warmth, Blades of cool, Nature’s weaving, Makes me feel like a fool.

We stop at the Colorado state sign and stand in wonder as to how the stickers way above our heads were placed. Photo opportunity over, it’s time to get on to visiting a sad, but educational park that will let us learn more about our ancestors – or the random ruthless settlers that came before us. There are some simple signs, a barn, and a trailer. We don’t feel we will be here long with the temperature at 94 degrees and the dogs in the car. We are greeted by an older woman who gives us each a brochure.

Bent's wagon

Bent’s wagon

One of those simple signs are letters written by leaders of U.S. soldiers that refused to kill the innocent Cheyenne and Arapaho people who had evacuated their land when told. This massacre would lead to a series of raids and retaliation, but also to a better understanding of our relationship with Native Americans. This land remains sacred and a place for education and nature preservation. We head inside to learn more and won’t return for 45 minutes. We talked with Ranger Shawn about other parks to see and he recommended getting the stamp from the Trinity Site in New Mexico.

Caleb adds the ranger’s signature to his collection and we go back to the car to collect our melted dogs. We try to walk them to the repatriation site, monument and overlook, but they look like they’re about to die from heat stroke so we put them in the car with the a/c on high and offer some cold water. There is another road that will get us closer so we take that, leave the dogs in the cool car, and walk around the site. It may be sad, but it’s also beautiful. I drive us to Bent’s Old Fort, a happier version of our history with the Natives.

Colorado sky

Colorado sky

We thought we might get lucky and get in the gate just moments before closing, but this Site closes at 4:00 pm and we are an hour late. We park outside and take the trail at our own risk as we are warned that park animals and hazardous trail conditions may be encountered – it’s flat, dry, and gravel – at least an incident would make for an interesting story on my blog, but there will be no such thing.

The dogs are left at the entrance in the shade as we take to the trail to see this park after hours. There is a large trading post with a wagon and a cannon outside. The ranger doesn’t answer our knock on the thick wooden door so we continue further until we see a teepee. I’m sure I could live there so there would be no problem trading here either. Maybe next time we will arrive at a time when the fort is open so we can see and learn more inside, but as for now the expedition will have to be satisfied with what can be seen from the outside.

Colorado sunset

Colorado sunset

We return to a car full of flies and I roll all the windows down trying to get them out. They wouldn’t bother me so much if they didn’t feel the need to buzz in my face. We enter the town of Walsenburg with food on the mind. The temperature is now 103 degrees so we figure we have three minutes before the dogs die. We run into Safeway and before I can ask to cut in line to buy a box of soup in front of the woman with a cart-full the lady at the register is too rude, so I leave the lunch there and hurry back to Sparky and Piggy.

I’ve never had an issue buying one thing in front of anyone. They are always so kind. That town needs to work on its manners. We have alfredo noodles for tonight’s dinner, but it seems tomorrow’s lunch will be imaginary. The Colorado sky is too beautiful to stay mad long. I know we will figure something out. I can barely drive because I am so mesmerized by the clouds and sun and the colorful show they are putting on.

Sometime after 8:30 pm we will arrive to a dark Pinyon Flats campground in Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. Just as we think we are getting lost a ranger comes by to let us know that the spot we are in front of is available. I walk the $20 to the fee booth while Caleb sets up. We drove 498 miles today putting us over the 50,000 mile mark on the odometer. This place is supposed to be awesome. I guess we will find out in the morning when we wake up.

Posted in Animals, Art, Camping, Food, Forts, History, People, Photography, Places, Poetry, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Denied Food on Labor Day

Posted on September 2, 2013 by TheJessicaness
President and Mrs. Hoover gravesite

President and Mrs. Hoover gravesite

Cronuts for breakfast. Anyone whose had one, that’s not on a diet, should agree that it’s a delicious option – but we are in for a surprise. Still fluffy and light, Caleb has no problem cutting them down the middle. The chocolate hazelnut was like an orgy of flavors in my mouth, but the strawberry mascarpone tasted like soap – the cute pink bars found in small motels, but it’s not what I intended to ingest this morning – so I didn’t.

We are 45 minutes from the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site upon waking. This gives us plenty of time to park, watch the elderly couples walk around, explore the Prairie Trails, visit the gravesite, and take a peek at the downtown historic district. We learned that this treeless landscape used to be fatal in winter and full of summer fires until a young blacksmith invented a steel plow in 1837 – his name was John Deere. This small tool would change the life of West Branch and bring it into its Golden Era of Agriculture.

Hoover collage

Hoover collage

Rangers are making their rounds and buildings are opening their doors. The Presidential Library and Museum looks impressive from the outside and the fee charged helps keep us on schedule. We visit the Friends Meetinghouse where the Quakers held segregated (guys and gals) silent meditation services. At the visitor center we watch a film that shows Hoover’s youth, the impression he made on the world, his fulfillment of presidential duties, and the public services he continued to work on after his time as the 31st in Office.

Traveling on a holiday has its ups and downs – as long as you remember to prepare. We hadn’t. The parks we encounter today are open and not crowded, but it’s our fault that we had to crave perogies and kolaches while heading towards Omaha, Nebraska that’s known for its Czech desserts and availability of a Polish-style dinner. We inquired in a pet store and gas station – the only two places we could see people inside. We settled for leftover pizza and an afternoon walk with the dogs.

small town, Nebraska

small town, Nebraska

Being nearby and enjoying ourselves so much last time we decide to make a return trip to Homestead National Monument of America. A few weeks ago, when this trip began, we had pulled up to the park booth as usual, but this time our annual pass was nowhere to be found. We had left it at home in our smaller passport book and had with us the explorer anniversary edition – sans pass. Luckily the park system is still giving the military a free card and we get one for our larger passport book.

This gets Caleb thinking that now that I have two it’s time he gets one of his own. We buy him the kids’ passport companion and I’m happy to see his eagerness in filling it in. He will get his first chance for a ranger signature (only ones that stand out in conversation, knowledge, and kindness) while at Homestead. We had planned on walking the dogs from the Heritage Center to the Education Center, a distance of about half a mile. That changed when we went inside and met Ranger Molly.

family of the corn - by Caleb

family of the corn – by Caleb

Caleb got to try his hand at making butter and we admired the corn husk dolls made by previous visitors. We started discussing our last visit and an hour later we had talked about travels, education, history, and parks in New Zealand. We had walked out to the car when Caleb made his decision as to who could sign his book. Molly was more than thrilled and honored to be the first to autograph his passport.

The Kansas state sign on the 81-S entrance is unique – as they all are, but I like the way this one incorporates a Latin phrase, “through difficulties to the stars” with 34 stars representing their admittance to the Union in 1861. We stop in Belleville for a snack and upon seeing a f’REAL! gas station milkshake machine (which first caught our eye in a Wawa station on the east coast some years ago) we try a new flavor – cake batter. I’m usually not one for unbaked-goods in other dessert forms, but this cake in a cup included some tasty factors – creamy, frosty, and sweet.

U.S. Center Chapel

U.S. Center Chapel

Further down the road is something we hadn’t thought about. Kansas is known for their collection of the largest this and that, but they also get to claim to have a town as the geological center of the contiguous United States – Lebanon. There are a bunch of different signs, markers, and a corkboard that remind visitors where they are and have newspaper clippings with background information – who found it and when – a government survey in 1898. The landmark here is the chapel that seats 8 with one podium and four windows.

What looks like a short drive on the map always takes longer in reality. The sun is starting to set and we stop to see a house with rocks piled up on the rear and one side to protect from tornadoes. I don’t know if it works or not, but the house is still there. I’m used to seeing the sun’s rays come through the clouds at all bright points in the day. What I have yet to see until now are rays emanating from the horizon. For those that think the Great Plains are boring it’s either because they’ve only seen crop squares as they fly over or they live there and have forgotten to appreciate what makes the state one of the great.

Kansas sunset

Kansas sunset

I stayed with my grandparents once when I was still losing teeth and Caleb and I drove through during winter in 2011 and there have been visits in-between. I’ve seen some of the cities and I’ve seen the cornfields, but I had yet to watch the coming of night in Kansas. We set up camp near the lake at Webster State Park. I got to watch light turn to dark, the stars shine bright and plenty, and to see a childhood favorite – lightning bugs. It’s the simple, natural, and unexplainable parts of my youth, and tonight, that I love best.

Posted in Camping, Education, Family, Food, History, People, Places, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Finding Trouble and a Tent Fan

Posted on September 1, 2013 by TheJessicaness
Indiana Dunes

Indiana Dunes

The last two nights were uneventful at the beginning, but after our night in Tonawanda the Budget Inn owner wanted to repeat that no dogs were allowed – that’s why they were in the car. And last night we had no problem finding a spot near the water amongst the well-lit RVs. It wasn’t until everyone else went to sleep too that the loud cackling stood out – and they were still laughing in the morning when we left before anyone or the sun was up.

We weren’t the only ones out early on the road. We were joined by horse and buggy with efficient rear lights and orange reflective triangles to help them be seen in the heavy fog coating the road for this morning journey. As soon as the fog began to rise so did Sparky and he felt it necessary to announce the passing of each horse, but we made sure he wasn’t too loud or didn’t spook them – that would be less than mannerly.

We had no problem finding the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, the gas pump carved from a tree, or the Lake Michigan beach. We didn’t feel like paying entrance to the state park though because smelting is only available in April and May. We spent some time trying to find the visitor center, but when we did we were able to get a map and figure out where we were going – on the Bailly/Chellberg Trail.

the trail

the trail

It’s a mile loop that takes us by the Chellberg Farm and the Bailly Homestead and introduces us to the life of Swedish immigrants in the 1860s. There is a nice tree-covered path so we decided to bring the dogs with us. Caleb was throwing Sparky’s ball for him until he somehow managed to jump between Piggy and I and break the poop-bag container handle off her leash. After some looking we were able to find the handful of red plastic among the green and brown walkway.

The last time I was in Chicago was the winter of 2004. This would be our first time in the Windy City together and driving on the highway into Illinois and their LED sign warns us to drive safe and buckle up because there has already been 631 traffic deaths this year. I don’t know if it’s more of a warning or a chance to gamble, but when I lived here nine years ago I was taking public transportation. I’ve survived driving in many states and now many provinces – and it’s not raining or snowing. We are quick to look for a parking spot.

I thought it would be cute if we walked on the Navy Pier together. I remember happy feelings in August 2004 when I visited here with my mom, her husband, and my little brother. But I realize as we walk among people drunk at 1:00 pm that I was elated because I had just finished Navy Boot Camp and had my 18th birthday to look forward to. I was going to become an adult with a job that travels and have freedom to do dumb things. It still offers great views of the skyscrapers and the lake.

Chicago Skyline

Chicago skyline

I carried Piggy in the more congested areas, but she does great for being blind. Parking close by cost us $22 and I’m almost ready to leave the city because I don’t want to go broke finding shade for the dogs, but we are on the hunt for the new craze – cronuts – a doughy concoction a baker gets when they mix a donut with a croissant. We get lucky and find free parking near Division St. where Alliance Bakery can be found. They sell three flavors and bad at making decisions we got one of each.

I couldn’t resist and as soon as we got to the car I opened the box and inside sat three croissant-layered, donut-shaped and fried, delectable treats with icing on top. We split the raspberry rose and agreed it was delicious. I love being an adult and eating dessert before dinner at Piece Brewery and Pizzeria less than a mile away. They serve a Camel Toe double IPA and pizza on industrial-sized baking sheets. Service was slow at the start, but then we got an outstanding waitress who did her part to satisfy our meal needs and her tip.

Their pizza choices are red with mozzarella, red without, and white with a list of toppings to fill the page. We get the red without and some spinach and jalapenos to fancy it up. We got lucky arriving on the weekend when Cronuts are served and on a Sunday when Piece offers a large pizza and a growler for $25 – but the deal is that the order has to be to go. No problem, but as we sit at our table with four plates and a pile of napkins we can’t help but eat a slice while we wait for our chocolate mascarpone pizza to go too.

pier view

pier view

It’s a good thing I saved room for dessert and tried it while it was still warm. The cold version is like leftover French fries – something I don’t eat. After nourishment it’s time for  some shopping at REI. The more we camp the more pampering we want. We think back to the days when we used to sleep on sticks and gravel with just a tent and sleeping bag from Wal-Mart between us and dirt – and then we remember that I didn’t sleep, so we got sleeping pads and now I can get a few hours of shut-eye at night.

Our next fancy camping comforts that we are in the market for is a tent fan for the hot and humid nights – which seem to be all of them when falling asleep – except for in the Badlands of South Dakota; and a coffee maker so that we can make our own and not rely on broken-down gas stations seventy miles from the next pot of cold dark water filled with grounds, though Caleb assures me there might be some in my next cup.

The fan has a leg to stand on and a magnet to hang from the top of the tent with a nightlight. We also got a new aluminum alloy spoon because I broke our Light My Fire Spork. And since we’re here – a larger camp towel so we can dry Sparky off more efficiently instead of with one of Caleb’s dirty shirts. Then the coffee maker. When we had made the decision to buy dinnerware we went with a Jetboil Sumo Companion Cup that holds 61 ounces – great for sharing a meal, but too much to drink. So we bought a coffee press and a cup with half the capacity to accompany it.

water patrol

water patrol

With our REI budget spent for the year we are able to get back on the road with a little, or a lot, less money in our pockets, but this outdoor store has yet to let us down when it comes to the quality of their products – well, besides the broken spoon. And drive we must. Tonight we will cross the state of Illinois, the Land of Lincoln, and enter the fourth state for today – Iowa, which I learned is bordered by the Missouri River on the west and the Mississippi River on the east.

We will be sleeping two miles from the water at a nest of a place called Wildcat Den State Park. We set up as the sun is going down and are getting the dogs situated when a truck’s headlights are all over our scene. An old man (that makes me think of Chuck Norris and Woolworths) comes by to collect the $9 fee for the evening and continues on his rounds. The lights come back and so does the man. He wants to let us know that our dome light is on – and that our dog should be on a leash. Sparky was in a tent sleeping until he came by, but we appreciate the courtesy so that our car starts in the morning.

two hours

two hours

Posted in Camping, Education, Food, History, Military, People, Photography, Places, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments

A Minute Late to the Grave

Posted on August 31, 2013 by TheJessicaness
reflective pool at Graycliff Estate - by Caleb

reflective pool at Graycliff Estate – by Caleb

The birthday may be over, but the party isn’t. We start this morning off with some leftover pizza from Sorrenti’s and a trespassing accusation at Frank Lloyd Wright’s Graycliff Estate in Derby, New York. We had plans to follow roads along Lake Erie to Chicago and see stuff along the way, such as Stevo’s Pizza in Erie, Pennsylvania. Our first site happened to be this giant home with shades of brown and tan amongst the trees with lots of windows on the lake. We could’ve pulled all the way up to the front door, but parked by the visitor center and walked back by the garage/guesthouse to the main abode.

As we were staring at stone and admiring the water a husky voice approached us from behind. A large gentleman let us know that what we were doing was considered trespassing. The place is impressive, but also empty. He escorted us back to the office to let us know that he was booked on tours, but he might be able to fit us in a few hours later – an amount of time we didn’t have. We left with a flyer and drove to the state line after stopping to get a view of the lake with industrial buildings and plants growing skinny red cones that looked fuzzy.

Once in the state’s fourth largest city, Erie, (it didn’t seem that large) it was time to eat. We had come to love a fast food burrito chain called Moe’s Southwest Grill that give their customers a “Welcome to Moe’s!” when they enter. So when we found out there was one here we couldn’t help but stop by for my usual Joey Jr. – a small wheat tortilla with black beans, tofu, peppers, salsa, etc. Even though we were headed to Stevo’s Pizza – a little place on State St. that offers pizza, subs, salads, and more – a restaurant that Caleb’s dad, Robert, had suggested we try while in the area.

Garfield Library

Garfield Library

We parked a block away, because the street was blocked off, put some coins in the meter, and made our way through a chollo parade – the worst representation of their home country of Mexico (traditional) we have ever seen – low riding cars, slutty dressed women, and loud music. Or perhaps we just got our first introduction to a new-age style that wasn’t expressed enough in old-age rap videos in the 90s. I may feel bad for the employees that have to listen to the air horns, but this event is good for business. Our broccoli and tomato pizza is hot, boxed, and ready to go.

We are back to the car before the meter expires and though we want to spend more time in this state the border to Ohio is less than an hour away and sixty minutes from there is the James Garfield National Historic Site. I have such an interest in our country’s earlier presidents and I’m sure when the ones of my childhood become history and less dramatic I will be curious about what gets erected in their memory. I will be able to look back, past the blowjob in the Oval Office, the extended war years, and the huge debate over our first black president and know that I lived through a modern version of the 19th century.

In the visitor center museum we get to learn about what made Garfield presidential. He would be the last president born in a log cabin and while in the White House too poor to afford his own horse and carriage for the stable, but he had been able to afford a nine bedroom house and 158 acres. We learned about his educational and religious history and the chain of political jobs leading up to the main office – the one that would get him shot just four months into his four-year term – ending his job and life three months later after doctors struggled to get the bullet out.

Cleveland, Ohio

Cleveland, Ohio

A poster tells us that Garfield was one of six Civil War veterans that fought for the Union Army and eventually became President. We arrived in time to see the museum and take the next guided tour. At least 80 percent of the items in the house are original and they don’t want them stolen. The last part of the tour that used to be a kitchen, and now a small museum, is video-monitored and self-guided. It would be nice if all parks could afford to protect their assets as safely.

It’s a large home that was enlarged, built up, and later added on to. There is a lot of history inside and out that explains the front porch campaigns; the designs behind the carpets, curtains, and wall paper; the fireplaces and portraits throughout the house; the friendships and the fine porcelain dishes; the details in the woodwork, chandeliers, and furniture; the large vault with a safe inside, the pianos, and the large book collection – that would set the precedent for presidential libraries. The house expresses a love for art, history, design, warmth, education, family, and lots of space.

We pass the campaign office and the beautiful windmill and agree on the excellent tour we just got, besides the crossing of tour paths where two voices competed for an audience, but that’s also luck in getting a good ranger. The guide was well-knowledgeable and there was plenty of time, two hours, for questions and picture taking. We return to the car with hot and hungry dogs. We treat them for not eating our pizza, and the box it came in, by sharing some with them before heading to Garfield’s burial site, 17 miles away, at the Lake View Cemetery.

Garfield Monument

Garfield Monument

It took Garfield a week to get buried here, and us just under an hour to drive here, but the glorious centerpiece of the cemetery that is his grave, that looks burnt, closes at 4:00 pm and there will be no going inside for us. We are somewhat bummed as other couples come out with smiles on their faces at the beauty inside. We will have to settle for the view from the steps, all the extravagant headstones, and the love felt inside the Garden Crypts. Caleb picks up a brochure that tells us that for $7,200 plus fees we could for “Everyday, Always & Forever” have a pond view near a chapel with a Brentwood lined burial vault.

We do but a drive-through of downtown Cleveland to drive out to Cuyahoga Valley National Park. The parking lot is full of cars with bike racks because it’s a popular way to get around the park – even after 5:00 pm. We are too late for any indoor activities, but this valley is covered in trails and waterfalls. We trade natural beauty for a night in the car with Buzz Balls (200ml with 20% alcohol), sushi, and black raspberry custard. I tried a sip since I was driving, but I got to laugh until I cried watching Caleb drink a Stiff Lemonade and a Lotta Colada – tasty and stiff drinks.

From Perrysburg, we drive into the sunset watching the corn, clouds, and colors go by. We still have another 45 minutes before we reach Harrison Lake State Park. Nothing stands out about this place – just another spot to sleep for the night, but it will remain special to us. It’s another dot on the map, a place we have been, and another memory to add to our minds. We have been on the road for three weeks now averaging 363 miles a day so this park may not make it to our 80-year-old brain’s memories, but it took sleeping here to help the rest of the trip happen. I have to learn to appreciate the mundane more so that the fantastic will continue to stand out and be the stories I share with others.

sunset in Ohio

sunset in Ohio

Posted in Books, Camping, Education, Food, History, People, Photography, Places, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Just Across the Borderline

Posted on August 30, 2013 by TheJessicaness
American and Bridal Veil Falls

American and Bridal Veil Falls

This morning is a late one – the moisture in the air caused Caleb to toss and turn in his bag causing more droplets to rain down from the tent ceiling which in turn got Piggy wet enough to start drying herself off. This should’ve been enough to get me up early, but 6:30 am would have to do. I stumbled over to the shower located amongst the RVs and got out still feeling dirty. Caleb was quicker than I and already back to the tent shaking excess water off before rolling it up.

I decide to put on jeans, instead of my usual tights attire for this trip, on my birthday. I’m not wearing them to look fancy, but they feel unusually rough on my skin that has gotten used to elastic material. I’ve successfully made another rotation around the sun. Today will be my 9,862-nd day celebrating life on Earth. To make this one a little more memorable than others I will be crossing the border, again, to set foot under 750,000 gallons of rushing water – otherwise known as Niagara Falls, the first American state park.

view from Maid of the Mist

view from Maid of the Mist

Exact numbers may be hard to find, but it’s easy to tell that millions of people cross this border each year, hence why there are now four bridges to aid with traffic and of those millions we are but two that are here to see twenty percent of the world’s fresh water flowing over the three falls located between New York and Ontario. The border agent on Rainbow Bridge inquires about our plans to stay for the day only. We just spent a week and a half in Canada and we are here for the falls.

It’s partly morning fog, but mostly the mist from the falls that we are driving through as we make our way over the bridge. I figure we will try to park as close as possible as all the other cars seem to have done in the sun, but we need shade for the dogs. We drive around for a while and end up in the Fallsview Casino parking garage. Just being near the falls could be enough for me – so much water, rocks, and mist – so much beautiful action.

I’m grateful that the International Joint Commission was able to come to an agreement about not removing the sloping mass of rocky fragments from the bottom of the falls. And that the falls are able to power hydroelectric generators and still put on a good show. The falls have only been stopped twice – once in 1848 due to an ice dam, and the second time in 1969 by engineers and scientists that tested the rocks and river bed for aesthetic purposes and anti-erosion methods that would be worth the cost and keep the tourists happy.

Cave of the Winds stairway in front of Bridal Veil Falls on Goat Island

Cave of the Winds stairway in front of Bridal Veil Falls on Goat Island

Luckily the project was deemed too expensive and wasn’t what the people wanted then – or now. It has taken over 10,000 years for the falls to erode almost seven miles. I’m sure they will be just as pretty in the year 12, 542 regardless of what cities the mist decides to cover – or if the falls get tired and quit flowing they will still be in the history books as a world wonder and the power plants would have to find a new source of energy, but for now the water flows at a pace that keeps a balance between visitor funding and local industry.

We find an information booth that only sells the Adventure Pass – admission to Journey Behind the Falls, Maid of the Mist, Film: Niagara’s Fury, White Water Walk, and two days of bus transportation. It’s a great deal if you plan on spending all day at the falls (which is totally possible) with another day or two to explore the surrounding attractions. I recommend a bike to cover the 31 miles from Fort George to Fort Erie. Our time here is limited due to our foot speed and having a week left of our trip to drive over 3,000 miles.

onboard the Maid of the Mist

onboard the Maid of the Mist – by Caleb

From the booth it’s a 15-minute walk to the Maid of the Mist. Our $40 gets us a 10:00 am departure, an elevator ride, a blue plastic poncho to wear, and a boat ride with anywhere from 300 – 600 other passengers past the American and Bridal Veil Falls and into the mist of Horseshoe Falls. It’s windy, wet, and scenic. What’s not to like – the woman with the two feet of curly hair that decides my face is the best place for her head mess. Caleb quickly switches spots with me (a few inches can always make a big difference – referring to his height) and my smile comes back.

The closer we get to the middle of our tour the denser the crowd gets, like a concert when the headlining band takes the stage, to get more pictures. People take turns and soon our six minutes are up. Total ride time is about 30 minutes – and I’m caught between time freezing so I can enjoy the moment longer and time flashing in a second to where if I didn’t have the pictures to prove it I might almost believe I wasn’t even there. Being able to add another item to my Building A Sandcastle list has built up an appetite.

We stop at a fast food place within the Maid of the Mist shopping plaza for a veggie burger and poutine to share. We take our quick meal to a table with two chairs and a view of the falls outside the large window – how romantic. I’ve had some delicious cakes and thoughtful gifts before, but starting a tradition of experiential birthdays is definitely more memorable. Full of carbs and gravy it’s time for our Journey Behind the Falls. Unlike the Maid that offers rides from both countries, this one can only be seen from Canada.

view of Horseshoe Falls from the Journey Behind the Falls upper viewing platform

view of Horseshoe Falls from the Journey Behind the Falls upper viewing platform

From one ride to the next is another 15-minute walk. These tickets are $36 and get us a yellow poncho, an elevator ride at 11:00 am, and a tour through tunnels about 150 feet below ground level and equidistant from the falls. Making our way to the elevator we see pictures and signatures of famous visitors, such as The Temptations and Tom Skerritt; and information about the ice boom, a series of pontoons cabled together and anchored to the river bed, that helps prevent ice accumulation that can interfere with the hydro-electric water intakes and cause flooding and damage to property along the shoreline.

We decide to read the fact placards as we make our way between Cataract Portal and Great Falls Portal, a distance of 650 feet, and save the viewing platform for last. People aren’t so patient – photo bombing us and squeezing into the spot we occupied before someone else gets it – and I understand. No amount of media can prepare someone properly for the amount of beauty seen and amazement felt once they arrive to a place so many want to visit and that they were able to afford.

Puck political cartoon of 26th president

Puck political cartoon of 26th president

The viewing platform is two levels. On the top-level I get a special feeling of awe as I stare at both sides of the falls and consider the power of water – to give and take life, to supply energy, and a place for sports. Making our way downstairs I pass a boy in his 20s carving his initials into the rock while his friends take pictures. The damage was already done and he wanted to carve deeper. I wasn’t sure of a language barrier, but it seems I made myself clear to him and all the others around us too scared to confront someone ruining this park for future visitors. Then I noticed all the names that have been carved before his.

We reach the You Are Here! sign located below the Table Rock Complex on the second level of the viewing platform. There is a lot more mist down here. As soon as we are back upstairs I begin to take off my poncho to keep me from sweating. We spend some time in the gift shop looking at the eight-foot moose named Murray, trying on hats, admiring the sculpture of pink Portuguese marble, and buy a shirt to commemorate our day in Canada on my birthday.

Our last snack was two hours ago and I’m hungry again. We stop at Cold Stone Creamery. The ice cream specialist hears a mention of birthday and reaches to grab me a scoop. I tell her instead to get us peanut butter cheesecake ice cream with KitKat candy pieces and strawberries in a medium cup. The daylight hours are half over and we plan on returning to the falls for the evening lights so we decide to tour Buffalo for a while – which is why I called my dad last night for some ideas. We return to the States via the Lewiston-Queenston Bridge.

Handel's Messiah written in the hand of Beethoven

Handel’s The Messiah written in the hand of Beethoven

First on our list though is the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site, one of the oldest homes in Buffalo, on Delaware Avenue. We walk in just in time to join a group on a tour. Our guide takes us back in time to the days leading up to the death of President McKinley and Roosevelt riding in from the Adirondack Mountains to take the oath of office in the home of Ansley Wilcox on Sept. 14, 1901.

We were filled in as if we were in the moment and the people still in the room figuring out what to do and what to tell the country. The city of Buffalo was in the middle of the Pan-American Exposition, running from May 1st to Nov. 2nd. We learned about the carpets, wallpaper, woodworks, portraits, and the books on the shelves – not actually belonging to the house, but good literature that could’ve been found up to the historic moment.

kitty on West Ave

kitty on West Ave

We take turns reading aloud written Morse code messages from the Western Union Telegraph Company with 21,000 offices in America at the time – that now has over 500,000 locations around the world. Upstairs are displays that show the connection between things the way they were then and now – presidents to parents, a room of macro-shots of items from the Pan-Am Exposition, another room with political cartoons, and a presidential desk where I practiced approving or vetoing bills.

On the way from one place to the next, we planned to walk to Santasiero’s (restaurant recommended by dad), I call my mom after receiving a birthday text message. We don’t talk long as I notice a Karpeles Manuscript Library Museum, one of two within a half mile of each other. We get to see sheet music with the handwriting of Mendelssohn and a sales agreement for Polonaise in A-Flat Major by Chopin along with other pieces from the Romantic period.

At the corner we are stopped by a man in his van. Tony pulls over to get out of the lane to give us recommendations on art and music things to see while in the city – and that we were fine with. It’s when he started talking about politics and such that I was more than ready to eat. A few blocks later we realized how far this walk was – not long on the legs, but that we would see less if we tried to hoof it all. I kept walking towards the restaurant while Caleb went back to get the car.

All Nations House of Prayer

All Nations House of Prayer

Each house is unique, each pet is cute, each kid is loud and playful, and their parents curious and kind. We are in a college neighborhood so I’m easily confused for a local if not a university transplant. Twenty minutes go by and I worry that Caleb will not find me and have trouble doing so because of the one-way streets. I hear him asking if a couple had seen me as I come running up to the car, ”There she is!” A few turns later and we are outside Santasiero’s that advertises spaghetti and roast beef on their sign.

I feel like a dunce when I think the place is closed. I just didn’t pull the airtight door hard enough. It may be warm outside, but once we are through the second door the temperature drops and we take a seat at the bar. It’s a small, family business with a simple menu and cash-only policy. We order a half-spaghetti and a half-eggplant parmesan and get bread with butter and water with lemon while we wait. For dessert we drive to Fowler’s Chocolates in Tonawanda – paternal grandmother’s favorite and she gifts some to my dad every Easter.

Engine House 26

Engine House 26

I am overwhelmed by the pink on the walls and the milk, dark, and orange chocolate with different fillings. We buy a double-decker variety box for me, a triple pack of bars for Caleb, and some cubes of dark chocolate with orange sponge candy inside. I would’ve bought more, but we were afraid of it melting or the dogs eating it. With enough sugar to last three days we drive south again to the corner of Tonawanda St. and Progressive Ave. to a firehouse with my 2nd great uncle’s name, A. Kurchhoff, carved into a concrete sign on a brick wall for painting the building.

The sign was posted in 1894, so I know there is no chance of meeting him, but there’s something neat about seeing the work of my ancestor and imaging what life was like when he was alive. The front is beautiful and the windows dark, but the back addition leads to a door with men in lounge chairs inside. I knock. They are humorous and kind and more than willing to show me the chipped paint that remains under layers of new paint.

sky over Love Canal

sky over Love Canal

We get an official tour by Lt. Weitz whose father was a captain here. He shows us the lounge where they watch the news, the kitchen where they cook, the lockers where we talk about the TV drama Rescue Me, the tool bench with clothes on it, a fuel dipstick from the 1900s, the bedrooms with maps on the wall, the pole hole – sexy in film and dangerous in life, the foot of space in the dropped ceiling, and of course Engine 26. We learn that the locks were removed because the truck is keyless and that intersections have numbers that match key-boxes located around town, so that even when a business is closed a fireman has access.

We thank the guys for their generosity with our intrusion into their evening, though perhaps they too enjoy the history of the place and sharing that with inquiring minds. Now it’s time to visit my great aunts, Lillian and Ann, that live across the street from each other on Delta Road. Unfortunately no one is home and we ride off towards a beautiful sky and the Love Canal – a fenced-in memory of a “… failure to exercise a sense of concern for future generations” by dumping toxic waste in a residential area.

awaiting the lights on Niagara Falls viewing platform

awaiting the lights on Niagara Falls Observation Tower

With Dad’s recommended tour, on short notice, of things to see and eat in Buffalo complete we are ready to head back to Niagara Falls to see the water lit up when the sun goes down. We don’t feel like crossing the border again so we park by the Niagara Falls State Park and get to enjoy a bit more of the river before the falls. There are trees touching the swirling, rushing water and I hop down on a rock to join them. The birds begin to fly as the skyscraper lights come on.

Walking along the fence my pictures could give the impression that I’m in the river, but I don’t want the lights in my eyes, so we will look for a different spot. We walk to the Niagara Falls Observation Tower where a crowd is starting to gather on the far side of the elevators so we set up closer to land. As we stood there mid-conversation I for some reason took off my ring and we spent some time discussing how Caleb would go down, 282 feet, to fetch it if I happened to drop it – I put it back on and the show started.

Niagara Falls at night

Niagara Falls at night

The lights start off white and slowly fade to shades of red, purple, yellow, and blue and will stay that way until midnight, but not us. We are in need of a coffee for the road and a warm bed for the night while we dry out our tent. We find a coffee shop nearby and I order something tall with lots of sugar and caffeine. The walk back to the car is relaxing – a little too much in fact. I thought we would sleep somewhere south of Buffalo to be closer to home in the morning. But we are able to find a room under $100 at the Economy Inn in Tonawanda and we take it.

We were driving down the street to check with the competition, Budget Inn, when I spotted a skunk. I parked the car and crossed the street. I didn’t want to scare it, obviously, but I wanted a picture. Well, I got one of a black blur in tall green grass. Totally worth it to risk smelling like ass until we found industrial size tomato sauce cans to bathe with, but I’m sure the manager wouldn’t have allowed us in. No refunds, No pets. Room 106 for $61.46. While Caleb filled out the form I could see the man’s wife in bed in the next room and hear the movie she was watching. It feels weird bringing in the tent and leaving the dogs in the car, but I need sleep and no pet fees for unauthorized guests.

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