Day 3: Sandy Streets, Shady Skies, Sociable Strangers

I like the white fabric of my tent; it lights up with the rising sun. The birds sing their morning song. I woke up to rollover because I stick to my sleeping bag in this humidity and was too hot to zip myself into an oven. Note: good tent for Badlands winter weather. Everything has moisture on it. Time to break down camp, stretch my legs, clean my mouth, and get on the road. I wonder what challenges today will bring as I set off at 7am.

I followed the map from the park exit and then drove on dirt and sand roads for 14 miles. I saw squirrels, poop with berries in it, and a large construction truck. I had to work harder to keep my balance in rough and muddy terrain. I stayed mostly in gear 2-4. On County Road 246 there were “This is Wetland” signs in the ditch beyond the trees, perhaps for the animals to read. I was on my third protein bar by 10am. I went through a small town, White Springs, and missed the turn to Camp St by 0.4 miles.

I found my way to County Rd 25A and stayed on that road for 10 miles. Between there and Stagecoach Rd/Co Rd 132, I got chased by my first dog. I would’ve gotten chased by another, but he had a limp. The first dog ran the 100 yards to his barely-there broken fence and stopped in the road at the end of his property line. Another dog went so far as to protect his neighbor’s yard as well. Luckily, for me, these attacks were planned when I was able to go faster downhill. Note: buy doggy sonar repellant.

I didn’t know how much more my heart could take and was able to rest under the shade of a tree on the corner of Co Rd 25A and Co Rd 132. I called Caleb and he offered alternative routes or to come get me. I told him I would think about it at camp – if I made it there. I stopped at a gas station at 1:30pm to get some juice; turns out the water flavor packets I brought were disgusting and made my water smell worse than hot dog poop in a plastic bag on a Florida summer day. And all was going good until I hit 24th street.

I rode through five miles of sand and had to walk my bike at points to keep from falling over. I had put my camera away so that it wouldn’t get crushed if I fell or broken if I got attacked by a vicious dog. I pulled out my only defense – a knife, and held it close to cut their biting jaws off my ankle if need be. The directions or the signs were confusing and I again found myself at Co Rd 132 with the option of left or right. I heard cars to the right and soon found the park on my right with Hwy 90 in front of the park entrance across the railroad tracks.

Here, I met Valeska and Philipp cycling from Los Angeles to Miami. They are from Austria and have been travel-cycling on and off for eight years. The ranger at Suwannee River State Park will put us in the same camp – saving me $16. As we ride in, a branch falls off a tree and I stop just in time to watch it land before me. Note: wearing a helmet is a good thing. We are at Site 18 and meet our neighbor, fellow cyclist, Bob from Fairbanks, Alaska. He started in San Diego and will be flying back home from Orlando.

My camp buddies were all twice my age, but had ten times that amount of experience. Tea and cookies were had as stories were shared. Note: bring cup so you can accept offered drinks. There is a lot of adventure in the world just waiting to be had and they agree that New Zealand is the best place to cycle in the world – yet. I’m able to get a hot shower before sunset and notice burnt arms and some mosquito bites. We stay up until the full moon over powers the stars and then it’s time to sleep.

I covered 54 miles and got up to 22 mph outrunning dogs. At one point, I stopped by a farm where 20 calves came to the fence and we just stared at each other for a bit, then I talked some, and kept going. The ground is hard tonight; not that it hasn’t been hard every other night I’ve ever slept on it – except for sand. I cleared the big sticks and rocks, but the ground is still uneven. Two trains have passed. I know I’m tired enough I will sleep through it. My neighbors are quiet; my zippers the only thing making noise.

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Day 2: Riding in Circles

I was sweaty all last night and had trouble sleeping because the dogs continuously woke to the different sounds of the night. We pack up and it begins to mist. I sadly put my camera away and wonder what today’s challenges will be. We decide to walk some of the park’s trails together. Our separation has always been forced by the Navy and we are having trouble agreeing to be apart when it’s not necessary.

It started to rain and Caleb took me home. I was sad, but still understood I was not fully prepared. I ate some food to console myself and started reading a new book. Once the rain calmed down I was ready to go – even if I get lost again, get another flat, or get caught in the rain. Life will always have obstacles and I was ready to hurdle the hardest – my inner demon that tells me it’s easier to watch this stuff happen on YouTube or to read about it. I am ready to tell my story.

Caleb dropped me off on the outskirts of town so that I didn’t have to worry about crossing any Jacksonville bridges. The map said it would take me three hours – it took over four, but my cyclocomputer says I was only spinning tires for two and a half. I averaged 8mph for 40 miles. It’s 67 degrees and I’m wearing compression pants and a t-shirt. I started to feel free and happy – I’d met defeat and slapped it in the face. And I was feeling good until my bum started to hurt. I don’t have the right seat and it’s not the right height – bummer.

Tomorrow I start fresh and only a day behind. I got to see lots of stars as I rode and it reminded me of times as a child when I used to wish upon them; now they are enough in themselves. City dwellers aren’t able to see stars like kids are that live eight miles away from a town with less than a 1,000 people. Riding with less weight is better, but riding with balanced weight and a bike made to carry so much would be the best.

Investing in some bike maps, Google print-outs, a compass, or an outdoor GPS would be helpful for street name changes and a change of sleep venue if you happen to ride more or less than planned. I got to ride beside a train and sing loudly – “I don’t want to close my eyes – I can’t!” I only have my rear panniers on with about 14 pounds of weight in each and the lane to myself. My headlight starts to dim and I let it rest. I will let the moon guide me and I still have full use of my blinking rear light. Note: carry spare batteries, solar power source, or neon vest on future rides.

I call Caleb when I see the turn for my campsite. I don’t want him to worry. Then I continue my night ride down a mostly smooth road. At this point I’m not worried about getting hit by non-existent traffic, but an unsuspecting deer. It is so peaceful, and exhilarating, for me to be out riding my bike at night instead of being stuck at the house doing lame civilized activities. What difficult work and a blessing, for me, it would’ve been to have been born prior 1860 – a time before cars, phones, TV. I would’ve liked a radio though or a mini-Bach in my pocket.

I have a sense for adventure, but I’ve been tamed by media and lack of funds. I sometimes thought it would be neat to be homeless – no bills, no responsibilities, but it would be better to be a nomad that has varying job qualifications so you can work and pay as you travel; though the best things in life are free – some, for now. I arrive to my campsite and realize this will be my first time camping alone. I set up the tent so I can crawl inside and get my light away from the bugs it attracts. Sleep will come easy tonight.

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Day 1: Heading West from Jacksonville

I woke at 4:30am eager to go, but had decided to wait until dawn. I will finish reading a murder mystery while taking a bath and waiting for Caleb to wake. I’m excited; this is an adventure. I’m also nervous of getting tired too easily with all the weight – 80 pounds in bike and gear, most of it food. I’m hoping for little rain, less traffic, and lots of photos. I will eat a slice of potato bread with peanut butter for breakfast while trying to cancel our internet. Apparently they were willing to take their modem back, but forgot to stop our payments. This will cause me to leave later than planned.

I leave around 8:30am and not even half a mile from the house I almost get hit by a suburban-driving cell-phone using woman. Getting to the top of Wonderwood Bridge (good incline for a noob) in gear 1-2 felt great. After eight miles I’m riding  in the right direction, but not sure of the right road. I stop at 10:30am for a calorie refill. Six miles later I will call Caleb to make sure I’m heading towards the bike-friendly bridge. While at the gas station a car pulls up and this guy deems it necessary to turn up his music to roll a blunt. I ask him to turn his radio down and he asks if I’m a cop. Really?!

I rode up to a hospital at a dead-end trying to turn onto the Acosta Bridge. I turned the corner onto San Marco from Prudential and my back tire went flat. I spent 30 minutes dealing with it myself. The bike was heavy and dirty but luckily I brought nose wipes to get the grease off my hands. Finding the hole was easy, but I couldn’t get the patch to stick and Caleb didn’t think he could explain it over the phone – am I that mechanically uninclined? Duane, a nice man on his lunch break, offers to help me and then other people stop too. A bus driver sat for a while and watched – my bike is in pieces; I’m not riding the bus.

Duane put copious amounts of glue on an area ten times the size of the hole and then took his lighter to it. I thought he might scrape a hole in the tire he was trying so hard to make it work. I thanked Duane for his effort and let him on his way. Caleb showed up at 2pm and repeated the patching process to no avail. We should’ve just put a new tire on it and let me keep going, but at this rate I had already lost three hours of today’s travel time. We head home to replace the tire and remove half the weight in the panniers. I will go with my Camelbak, no other water, few ounces of applesauce, and only 4,000 calories in protein.

Caleb will drive me to tonight’s campsite and decides to make a family night of it. I will lose 50 miles today, but still have time to make them up. We make it to the campground after 9:30pm and I set up the tent. I rode 18.2 miles, averaging 7.4 mph, and burned 480 calories. It’s proving to be a rough start. I want to succeed at this (as a strong, independent woman) but I also want my husband there to share the views and moments with me – and change my tire. Time to enjoy the comfort of the sleeping pad, that I won’t be taking with me, and the presence of my husband for one more night.

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What’s on My Bicycle?

I was going to take pre-pack photos of what was on my to-go-with-me list, but I kept changing which pannier a certain item would go in and instead of just taking a picture and then packing I thought I would have the items place picked out and then take a picture. I ended up packing and not getting photos. I will break my list up into readable paragraphs and describe in some detail what I’m bringing. Feel free to ask questions as I will probably leave details out unintentionally.

I will be riding a Hybrid Schwinn with 700c tires. On my bike I have a Bell cyclocomputer, a Planet Bike Superflash rearlight and a Schwinn Xenox headlight, front and rear Ortlieb waterproof panniers, and one Arete ASL 2 all-season tent. On me I will have a Bell bicycle helmet, a 100-oz water reservoir Lobo Camelbak, a T2i Canon DSLR with 67mm lens, over-sized sunglasses, and a sweater. Also in my Camelbak are directions from Google maps, plastic comb for vanity, emergency rain poncho, bugspray with deet, sunscreen 70 SPF, lip balm, nose wipes, SOG Flash II knife, nail file, keys, hair ties, iPod, and cell phone.

In my front panniers, weighing around seven pounds each, is a Therm-a-Rest self-inflating pillow with homemade pillow case, a Marmot Plasma sleeping bag, two journals, one notebook, four pens, a roll of toilet paper, toothbrush, floss, compact mirror, mouthwash, waterproof notebook, US passport, National Park passport, calculator, nail clippers, tweezers, q-tips, two small soaps, wallet, 58mm lens, Petzl Tikka 2 Core headlamp, tire gauge, two tire pries, patch kit, four spare tubes, chain lube, mini bicycle air pump, wrench, screwdriver, spare bag, iPod and phone charger, camera batteries and charger.

In my rear panniers, weighing around 15 pounds each, is two pair compression pants and shorts, two compression shirts, two sport-bras, a fitted shirt, four pair shorts, three shirts, a dress, a beanie, pair of gloves, a face-mask, four pair socks, nine underwear, pair of Capri sweatpants, a towel, 88-oz of water, 30 water flavor packets, 4200 calories of fruit-nut mix, 200 calories in energy jelly beans, three pounds of applesauce, 3120 calories in junk food, and 14280 calories in protein bars weighing 10.8 pounds.

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Bleach, Boxes, and Bread

I don’t know where we get most of our cleaning products; we buy dish-soap, but somehow we have a giant dishwasher detergent collection; we also buy laundry detergent. I like to collect shampoo, and lotion – though not a cleaning product. We have sprays and wipes for metal, wood, glass, and porcelain. I like products that make cleaning, and breathing, easy. Somehow we managed to obtain a 1.5 gallon jug of bleach. I will be using it, with the windows open, to clean the entire house – minus the carpets.

We have boxes everywhere; empty boxes, boxes with some things in them; boxes with stuff near them that will go in them; and other boxes packed full of things that will be taken out of them – that’s a lot of boxes. Sunday will be the big day to bleach stuff, box things, and get the house looking half deserted. It will leave Caleb more lonely for the week, but me more satisfied that I helped and that nothing will be forgotten.

Sunday will also be the day I start to pack for me leaving on Wednesday, write my last Jacksonville post, and then pack my computer. Last night I was out with a friend and Caleb stayed home and decided to make bread. Around 7:30pm Caleb was kneading the dough, which can be loud and disturbing if not accustomed to the sound, when our neighbor came to our door a bit perturbed. Caleb told her he was busy slaughtering a goat. “OH MY GOD! Well you woke my baby nephew! Are you almost done?!” Then he admitted, while wearing flour, to simply making dough rise.

What an evening the both of us had. My story to come in a future post – seems to be a lot of those to come, but that’s good news to those that like to read my words. But all his kneading left us with three loaves of bread heaven – I absolutely love homemade bread – husband’s and his mom’s. This is just the beginning to the carb overload that will ensue as my feet go round and round on the pedals that circle by the chain and gears of my bicycle.

Posted in Cycling, Family, Food, People, Things, Travel | Tagged , , | 3 Comments