Dogs Appointment Day

sunlight coming in the window

sunlight coming in the window

I want to be adjusted to a schedule already, but I can only fight sleep until 9pm with the help of caffeine. Then regardless of the light coming in the window or if there is a party outside or not I wake up at 2 or 3 and then Sparky does the same and lets his nails click all over the floor to wake us up to let him out. Part of me doesn’t mind because I can watch an obstructed sunrise through our window or I will have to break curfew to watch it on the beach – which I still need to do.

The internet was working a little faster so I thought I would pay bills. That’s a bad idea when still getting used to a new country and before having breakfast or coffee. I couldn’t wrap my brain around the $770 charge for the rental car. I was under the impression that we would be paying $200 a month, but I guess that meant BD (290 total), and since we paid for two months in advance we got a good deal and they put us in a more expensive car but are charging us for the cheaper one.

I should’ve remembered that I thought living in California was expensive – paying an extra dollar for peanut butter, 60 cents more for each gallon of gas, and $1,400 for a two bedroom – our biggest place yet. So moving here it seemed the food was comparable (and it all has to be delivered), the gas is supposed to be a third of the cost from the States, but the rent is doubling. I was able to swallow that fact easier knowing that the Navy would pay our rent, but we’ve spent so much money on this trip and I can’t keep track of the flow like I’m used to.

I’m hoping in another week my sleep pattern will balance out, the heat won’t make me as tired, and the banks will process our debits and payments so that I will know where we stand financially. It makes me wonder why Caleb would want to bother with dragging one life into the other. He could’ve left all this – car, household goods, wife, and dogs – and come here unaccompanied. He could’ve drank with the guys and shared a flat with them. He could eat fast food and rent a fast car. He could watch TV all night and then just call me in-between, but he loves me enough to put up with the crazy.

dirt lot decoration

dirt lot decoration

He’s really stressed out trying to do all the running around for extra processing that I need and he’s taking it out on the people trying to help us. He knew how much I wanted to come and was willing to have to stay here another year, but I wanted to come for the positive experience that other spouses and travellers have, not for negativity and regret of being somewhere with someone who doesn’t like their surroundings. I’m hoping these are temporary emotions.

We enjoy our breakfast and eat slowly. I will try the corn flakes and whole milk. We got there early and get back to the room at 7:15. We agree to leave in an hour so we can find parking and get to our appointment on time. It’s easy to get the well rested, just walked and fed dogs into the car. Sparky rolls down his window and in our Mazda I can lock the windows for everyone else but still roll them all down. In this Nissan if the windows are locked I can only use mine.

The lot closest to the base gate is full so we park in the next one a building distance away. Going through the gate is easy and the day is still cool. We arrive to our 9am appointment 15 minutes early. The technician lets us in to cool off, then sets us up in the room. The vet comes in, does her exam of both dogs and recommends Piggy get her teeth cleaned and Sparky get neutered to keep his prostate from getting too big and blocking his butthole from proper function. Their medication got shipped so we have to buy Heartgard and Frontline as sand ticks are a big problem here. The visit and three-month supply of meds will cost us $118.

Caleb went to PSD to get prepaid for per diem while I waited in the shade next to Bldg. 1 before Piggy chased a cat out of the bushes. Then we went inside so that they could have some air in place of water. I brought a bottle for them but nothing to put it in so they could drink. Caleb got done and went by the Desert Dome for a cup. I refilled my bottle and then we made the hot trek to the car. It felt more hot today keeping up with Piggy’s quick pace and having no breeze to cool us off. I was grateful that it wasn’t too hot on their pads to walk so that I didn’t have to carry them.

the base is in Juffair

the base is in Juffair

They stopped in the shade of a vehicle two down from ours and got some more water while I turned the air on to make the seat less prone to burning. Their tongues hung out for half the ride and finally made it back inside their mouths before we got home. We are all appreciating the air, cold marble floor, and cool leather couches. I text the realtor and after 20 minutes of no reply decide it’s time to go to Lulu’s for some shopping. I’m in need of more Ramadan friendly clothes while I wait for mine from the States.

Finding it is no problem now that we know to turn at intersections with lights, not random unmarked streets. We spend maybe 45 minutes in the ladies department finding me a few shirts and a wrap-around skirt, and then I try on a dress that reminds Caleb of Little House on the Prairie – I didn’t get it. We grab Caleb two shirts and I watch a guy ‘break-in’ to the dressing room. Somehow it was locked with no one in it, so I ask him to unlock the second one too so that all three rooms will be available again.

We head to the Manama Souq. There is parking across the street and as big as the entrance may look the amount of shops down the long alleys are even more impressive. I start to get hungry and mention that we could go to Shawarma Alley, but Caleb says we came here looking for knee-covering shorts, so I grab the first pair I see (in the men’s section) so we can leave. Then I spot a juice stand and order a medium mango consisting of fruit and ice. I slurp that down on the way back to the car.

Caleb agrees to see the Alley even though we should be meeting with realtors, but the directions get us into a few dead-ends in the middle of the souq and soon Caleb’s dehydration gets the better of him. We almost took a shortcut to the highway, but the curb was too tall for the car. This doesn’t stop other cars from driving on the sidewalk to take an exit or to cut in line – they will do this from the turn lane too.

food shot - because I didn't take enough photos of anything else

food shot – because I didn’t take enough photos of anything else

Home at 2:30 and we have an appointment with a realtor today at 3:15 and another one tomorrow at 4pm. Diana is on time and takes us to Meena 7 – a tall apartment resort. She shows us the two pools and private beach and the parking garage before going upstairs to show us the large three bedroom place. It didn’t have any furniture in it but the view was nice, the space plenty, and the maid’s quarters – a personal bathroom with room for a bed and dresser next to it. I would prefer it be a guest room, small office, or dog room, or a place the maid sleeps when she’s too drunk to drive. I wouldn’t expect someone to stay there long-term.

Then we pass the place we looked at yesterday to see a three bedroom version of it. The backyard is bigger and has a fence, but no ladder to the water. It’s between two walls giving us a more personal swimming area in the canal and a neighbour with a boat. The living room, a bathroom, and kitchen are downstairs, two bedrooms on the second floor, another bedroom on the third, and maid’s quarters on the fourth. Plenty of balcony space to store our things that won’t fit in the house, but with the extra-large wardrobes I don’t think it will be a problem.

She had a couple of places she was going to show us, but Tala island got in trouble for letting its tenants have dogs when there is a large sign that says no pets, so we need to find a place that is pet friendly before they are gone. There was a place with a side yard – biggest yet we’ve seen in Bahrain – that was only on the market for one day. I would’ve taken it if the family wasn’t there standing in the open door as they waved us away.

Diane drops us back off at The Dragon and tells us we can walk by another place at 6pm to see if it’s available for showing and that she might be back in time to go with us. She hands us her card and drives away. Caleb makes spinach and cheese raviolis for dinner and while we wait for them to cook we have some crackers with pepper gouda and I share a banana with the dogs. Our houseboy comes by demanding our towels saying that he has to change them out every other day – company policy.

We take the dogs with us to villa 220 and the family inside is making dinner. It smells amazing, I remove my shoes, and step inside. The extended living room does add more space. They’re using theirs as an office and the backyard space that they do have is fenced in because they have small dogs too, but I think we’re still set on the three bedroom. We enjoy the walk home and I think tonight will be the earliest yet.

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Day Two at the Brief

exchange receipt

exchange receipt 

I set the alarm early so that I could get online and get some things done before leaving. I ended up taking a shower, emailing Hasan, and checking Facebook. Caleb grabbed his uniform – can’t be worn off base – and we went to breakfast. There was a mother in there with two school-age children and another one throwing a tantrum. I tried one of the stuffed croissants from Caleb’s plate and we were out of there.

On the road, Caleb realises that he forgot to shave and decides not to wear his uniform again today. Some of the spokespeople have been no-shows, but three of the guys on Caleb’s boat decided to get too drunk last night to show up on time this morning. It’s no wonder that the anti-terrorism, shore patrol, and pass & ID speeches that we hear today will sound repetitive. It doesn’t matter how many people say it multiple times – stupid people are going to make dumb choices – even if they get to fly large equipment, carry fully automatic weapons, have families at home, or are in another country.

I know a lot of people who did their time in the Navy – like myself who used the time to be crazy at first and then grow up and make something of themselves when they got out, but today’s navy is more about daycare for adults than a responsible learning environment. Part of the security brief was about transportation on base. You’re supposed to register your bike for theft recovery when nine out of the ten recovered weren’t registered – just as I was becoming impressed with the security of this place I realise it has its faults like everywhere else.

After 9am a lot of people left to get their visas and other things taken care of – including us. We already knew we needed a print out from Admin from upstairs in Bldg. 1 so we went there first. Then passed some of the guys from the command that thought we could use the Liberty Center computers to print out another form we need, but only the library has color printers for that purpose – and both open at ten. We sit down at a bench in the shade and Caleb’s XO approaches. I don’t say anything while she’s there – obviously – but as soon as she walks away I ask Caleb how long she’s been in. He’s guessing at least four years because the way it sounded to me it should be Caleb who’s in charge. She’s been here since the second of June and looks to be on vacation. She’s not in uniform, she didn’t meet us at the airport, and hasn’t helped the command in any way (that I know of).

In the library we try to use the wi-fi code on the computer and when that doesn’t work Caleb sets up an account. As we’re printing ours we’re able to help other people who come in get their form in order. You only fill out one sheet, but it prints four and the library charges 25 cents a page. We take all that to the immigration office which is a conex box with a couch in it making the space even more limited. We wait in line to turn over our passports so that they can take three weeks to process them for our one-year visa – even though they knew ahead of time that we would be here for two years. As we walk out of there I mention the same thing about lodging. The first week should’ve been taken care of, but then there would be our issue of getting the wrong room paid for. This whole process continues to be unorganised with no sign of improvement.

We start to walk back to the briefing room so I can sit for the Bahrain FRG (family readiness group) when Caleb realizes he set his water bottle down somewhere. He goes back to look for it while I go to the bagel shop to buy lunch. I get a veggie bagel with olive cream cheese and a jalapeño cheddar bagel with plain cream cheese. I meet Caleb upstairs and we have time to eat, lay back in the uncomfortable chairs, and then go down to the NEX to buy a pumice stone and loofahs.

Upstairs we notice that we missed the MWR brief because there are yellow bags everywhere with their initials on them. Some a-hole threw his away instead of saying no thanks so I was still able to get one, but I don’t think I can wear it off base so I will be mailing it back to the States to one lucky person. We sit through the sexual assault brief and learn all about the victim’s rights, then the best news since we’ve been here gets delivered by PSC Mendoza. He lets us know that for those of us that will be here for two years the Navy will pay for a $2,000 round-trip ticket to an approved location – meaning not Iraq, etc. and other nations that may be on the don’t travel list at the time.

He goes through all the other entitlements – how much for hotels and houses, how much food money we get, family separation pay (only if your family was not approved for overseas), and then tells us that if active duty extends for a year they will have the choice of one of four incentives – 30 days free leave, $2,000 cash, $80/month for the extended year, and something else, but letting us know that most people take the free plane ticket and free leave and go on a vacation. I let Caleb know that he doesn’t have to do that. He doesn’t want to be here for two years, let alone three.

We don’t have to stay for the rest of the brief and are let go at 1:30pm. Caleb’s command sent around a sign-up sheet to go to PSD, but one day we have the dogs appointment and the next we signed up for the culture tour – museum with lunch for BD7 and free tour of the Grand Mosque. I didn’t think that many people were interested, but Mr. Hassan said that more than 40 people are going. I was looking forward to a smaller crowd, but I hope the people going will be respectful and it makes me happy that they are curious.

With the PSD brief out of the way we figure we can go by the office on base. The guy there tells us to come back when Caleb checks into the boat, though we can come back to get our hotel room reimbursement and some advanced pay for food. I bring up going to the souq and Caleb’s thinking about the tour – both require BD, so we go to the exchange office after the ATM. On our way there we see Amy and meet April – another lonely wife at her command. They leave with hands full of boxes and upstairs we pull out $500 to have it turned into BD188.

It feels late and I’m ready for a nap. Caleb reminds me that it’s only 2:30pm, not 4pm. Not that it makes a difference in jet lag, but that it’s technically still early in the day. I’m anxious to get home and tend to the dogs. Traffic is heavy heading towards the highway and there’s a lot of merging with lanes ending and lane closure for construction. I pissed a local lady off today when I wouldn’t let her have my lane so when the road went back to two lanes – she took it! I slowed down and let her go. I know that she can total her husband’s car and blame it on the stupid American and I will be left waiting for the police to show up and paying for damages.

Caleb vents to me the rest of the way home about that injustice – we let foreigners walk all over us in the States and then they are free to do it in their home country. I have learned to accept things are a certain way in different parts of the world – that’s what makes them unique, but if there were ways to improve them such as equal rights, well that might seem better to us, but here this system works for them and I applaud their absolute freedom to share lanes and park on building ruins and half in traffic lanes. This doesn’t make me want to run back to the States; it makes me want to see more of the world and all its glory.

The puppies are excited to see us when we get home. We have good timing today and are able to park directly in front of our door instead of a few feet away on the other side of the fountain. We walk them, feed them, and I eat wilted salad – tomato, cucumber, lettuce, and feta – and chocolate as a snack. I refill my water bottle that I carry everywhere so that I can recycle some of the plastic bottles on base tomorrow when we go. I look forward to the day we can reuse the five gallon jugs instead of having to buy cases of 1.5 liter bottles.

I will get some writing done while Caleb takes a nap. I go into the kitchen for another snack and see my first moldy banana (thanks humidity). I’ve seen them get soft spots all the time, but this thing was growing. I cut the tip off and was going to save half of it but it was mushy, so I sacrificed a half-inch and ate the rest. I contacted the realtors and made an appointment for tomorrow; tried looking at bills and with a slow internet connection got logged out before the page would load; and was going to call the doctor and dentist but realised it was after hours so I turned on the TV. I flipped through a few movies – Snow Dogs, Selena, and watched them blur. It’s a little after seven and the dogs need to go out.

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Indoctrination Day

sunrise through the curtain

sunrise through the curtain

I remember Caleb pouring the Rockstar. I remember taking a sip and trying to turn on the TV. This happened around 7pm and the next thing I vaguely remember was Caleb taking me to bed at 9pm. I slept well until 2:30am. Sparky woke up with me so I took him outside as I wondered about curfew. We’re supposed to be inside by 1am, but what’s the earliest we can come out again – this question will be asked today.

Caleb gets out of bed at three to tell me that he let Sparky out at two. We need to keep him awake during the day with us so that he will sleep at night with us too. We get all our paperwork in order and I start going through photos for the blog, but by five we are getting antsy. I start looking through the pile of magazines available on our coffee table. We put the dogs in the second bedroom so that we can get dishes and cleaning done while we are gone and go to breakfast at 6:58.

Time Out Bahrain magazine

Time Out Bahrain magazine

We are the first ones in there, fill our plates, stuff our faces, and are in the car 15 minutes later. It only takes us 15 minutes to get to the dirt lot in front of base which delivers us to the Freedom Souq 25 minutes early. We walk around a bit and then go inside to a multiple command indoc. I thought this would be another two-hour process, but we are handed a five-day schedule. Luckily two days are not mandatory for us and one day is a voluntary Bahrain culture tour by a local. We hear from the CO and XO and they try to sound professional and prominent, but they just sound pompous to me.

The CMC spoke next and made a nice impression on me. A guy in the back asked a question about something that was already said and got to go to the front and reread the card that they will pass out to the audience. I asked about curfew and was told that I should be inside from 1:00 to 5:00 am – and not to go alone with my dogs as they could be stolen and sold. As many terrorist activities and scary things I’ve heard about this place that was definitely not one of them, but luckily the ropes we are using now can be wrapped around our bodies for extra security.

We hear from the Navy College Office, get fire fighting training from the local department, and hear from four different people about medical and mental health. Guys talk to us about DAPA, NCIS (like the TV show), and a lady from the pet vet’s office about their limited services. The NEX rep talks to us about purchases – outlet transformer, alcohol point system, items offered with price matching and easy ordering of what they don’t have.

another tasty morning at Yamin Jana

another tasty morning at Yamin Jana

Then Mr. Hassan talks to us about what to expect during Ramadan – sadly I can’t go to the procession on the 21st, but I can go into the Grand Mosque and the ceremonial tents. During their holy month they not only abstain from food during the day, but also from drink, sex, smoking, cussing, and bad deeds. He teaches us some greetings – Eid Mubarak (blessed Eid) and assalamu alaikum (peace be with you); and lets us know that restaurants will be closed during the days, bars closed for the month, and other businesses will have shorter hours.

Mr. Hassan tells us when kids will come knocking on our doors – we can either participate by giving them candy and singing along or lock our doors. He finishes with telling us more about the local Bahrain customs and ways we can show respect for their religion and culture – don’t show the bottom of our feet, take our shoes off in their home (so we don’t dirty where they pray), don’t make out in public, dress modestly, and don’t flip off protestors (or a finger is likely to be removed).

sign inside the Freedom Souq on base

sign inside the Freedom Souq on base

And each speaker stresses the importance of safety and security – buy a paper shredder, women can take women driver cabs, this nation is zero tolerance for alcohol in the blood stream while driving, numbers to call if we see something or feel scared, numbers that will text us to avoid riot areas, what the red and yellow zones mean on the map (red not at all and yellow not at night), and don’t participate in human trafficking (prostitutes). You shouldn’t invite locals back to your room and don’t talk to them about politics, religion, pork, alcohol, or sex.

After the brief, we left early because we’d already been to the housing brief, we followed a guy to medical where we were told to go to Bldg. 1 to get the same form we had but with a different name on it. We went by the Inn & Suites to get some copies made and I was enrolled in medical. We decide to take care of dental and visas tomorrow as it’s now 4pm and their offices are probably closed. We were also able to set up a P.O. box during our lunch break. We had some trouble opening the box at first – it has been years since using a spin lock with a three number combo – and then we went to the deli in the NEX for a Texas omelette and veggie omelette on jalapeño cheddar bagels. We went back to the briefing room to eat them.

We went back by the NEX when we were done running errands so I could get some appropriate local attire, but they offer workout gear that’s too tight and ladies blouses that are too big. We can go by the souq tomorrow. We would’ve gone today, but I quickly remembered that the dogs were probably still in the bedroom where they had been for nine hours and they needed out – I was right in my assumption. Amy texts me to let me know that her property manager, Hasan, is available to show us a place and will be at our place to pick us up at six to look at it. I’m so grateful for the helpful people who are making this transition easier.

sunset from The Dragon parking lot

sunset from The Dragon parking lot

Hasan arrives at 6:30 and takes us across the street to view a two-story townhouse with water access from the backyard and a view of the ocean in the front. We loved a lot about it – the water cooler, transformer, washer with separate dryer, large oven, and the living room – but realised we will need a three bedroom place to accommodate four bicycles, a tool box, treadmill, cabinets and bookshelves, and our desks with chairs.

Next door is Jamnis working on his new-to-him jet ski. Caleb worked with him for a while so we walk over to talk and he invites his wife, Reika, out to say hi and we end up talking for at least an hour. She happens to know Amy through her husband’s command. They really want us to be neighbours, but I figure anything within walking, or bike riding, distance will be good too. Before we left there we met Nicole walking her dog with an empty stroller to prepare them both for next month when the baby arrives.

Back home I’m too tired to be motivated and turn on the TV for mindless entertainment to keep me awake. We end up watching the middle of Darjeeling Limited – something about three brothers traveling to see their mother. I decide to walk the dogs when my eyes get heavy. It will be another early night in bed around nine, but I’m setting my alarm for 5:15.

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Trying to Sleep in Twilight

our breakfast at Yamin Jana

our breakfast at Yamin Jana

We waited up until 10pm last night before going to bed. I set the alarm for 7:15 – way more sleep than usually needed but hoping to help recover from jet lag. I got woken up by the club next door and was surprised to hear, “Because all of me loves all of you”. I recalled a dream I had and then went back to sleep. Sparky woke up letting his nails click throughout the place and then coming back to bed to clean the dust off his feet. I knew he had to go outside, but I was tired and didn’t want to get up yet.

houseboys mopping

houseboys mopping

Caleb woke up enough, we got dressed, and carried the dogs across the street at 3:45 am. People around here live like vampires – coming out at night. We are probably being stared at, but we are too blurry eyed to care and most of them are drunk in conversation waiting for their rides. It felt later than it was and I would listen to their music and wait to fall asleep. I woke up at 5am to go to the bathroom and figured I could lay down for two more hours, but when I woke at 6am I got out of bed. We were supposed to get a head start on house hunting, but there is only so far we can go on foot and Master Chief never got in touch with us yesterday like he said he would to show us around and introduce me to his wife and some of her friends – so we wait.

newspaper - pee pads

newspaper – pee pads

Caleb wakes and takes the laundry out of the machine. He put more in there than the dryer could handle so he starts using hangers and drawers and closet space to hang them up. He goes into the den and notices two piles of dried something that we somehow missed the smell of. He picks up the crusted dry poo from the dogs’ makeshift toilet; then remembers that their travel blankets need to be washed and the newspapers that were under them, covered in pee, need to be thrown out.

sign in the wash section of the prayer room

sign in the ablution section of the prayer room

I make a video of Caroline’s visit to the beaches and post it to YouTube and then it’s time for breakfast. We walk over to Yamin Jana and the server asks for our room number – umm, 9 something, 3 something, and a 5. Then we look on the paper by last name and are welcomed into the dining area. The buffet takes up three walls – toast, yogurt, fruit, veggies, cheese, cereal, juice, coffee, beans, mushrooms, boiled eggs… and as we look we are offered a pancake, waffle, or omelette. We choose pancake, load our plates, and take a seat by the window.

one of "The Camels of Unity"

one of “The Camels of Unity”

I got rye toast with orange marmalade, a muffin, triangle of brie, a scoop of labnah (sour cream yogurt), slice of tomato, piece of pineapple and honeydew, pineapple juice, and a pancake that resembled a crêpe. The server sees us watching the cleaning crew mopping and squeegee-ing outside and notes that clean up is very much necessary especially after the weekend parties and says something about the humidity. The sun is hiding behind the clouds for now and it feels nice out. We feel guilty heading back to our room and leaving dirty footprints across their freshly mopped floor.

under construction at The Lagoon

under construction at The Lagoon

I’m not feeling well. I think it’s a mix of sleep deprivation, dehydration, and the labnah – though I didn’t have that much. I haven’t had to taste the same meal twice in a long time but doing so makes me feel better. I lay on the couch for an hour with Piggy while Caleb adds more yarn to his ball. Regurgitation, relaxation, and some fresh air will cure me. We walk the dogs, give them some food, and then head to The Lagoon that is supposed to have a grocery store closer to us. I notice the tiny mop heads in the window of the parking garage and the thin directional arrows in the road.

me in a hanging chair

me in a hanging chair

The mall is three stories – floors G, 1, 2 – with the second floor mostly construction, the first floor mostly restaurants, and the ground floor offering food, furniture, and spa services. There is a building on each side of the water and a round building built over the water, but the janitor can’t tell us what it is, or we don’t know how to ask, but we do point. I find a ladies prayer room and take a peek inside. There is a place for your shoes, a wash area for hands, feet, and face, and then a carpeted room with a bookshelf in the back. We pass a lot of American version restaurants and though I thought I wouldn’t eat there I want to taste the difference. We make our way from one side to the other, find the elevator, and I finish my water. It’s time to find air-conditioning and more water.

restaurant outer decor

restaurant outer decor

Our hands are swollen as we finish our first litre of water at Pizza Express. We order dough balls with three sauces – pesto, garlic butter, and red pesto – as an appetizer. And for lunch we get two pizzas: Giardiniera with red pesto, veggies, and added balsamic; and Melanzane Piccante with aubergine, jalapeños, Mozzarella and Grana Padano cheeses, rocket and added chilli pepper oil. We order another bottle of water and finish half of that at the table and refill my bottle with the rest. As we are leaving a family comes in – father, mother in jeans with an abaya, two kids, and the nanny. Part of me doesn’t see the point in wearing both – it’s meant to cover womanly curves and save you from sand and sun, but wearing it so loosely just looks bad.

the unknown building in the middle of The Lagoon

the unknown building in the middle of The Lagoon

We take our two boxes of pizza and take a short cut home. Caleb thinks about our food allotment money – BD80 a day each – and that even if we go out once a day like we have been we’re only spending BD30 for both of us and will still have enough saved up to pay the large move-in deposit that we will need in 43 days. While we were eating Caleb got a text from Master Chief letting us know that he was going to pick us up in an hour.

hedge sign

hedge sign

When we get to the room I take a shower while Caleb walks the dogs. Master Chief is 30 minutes late and I have no idea where we are going, but I’m sure to bring water, phone, and ID. His name is Francis and we meet his wife, Amy, and their ten-year old son, Nick – a family of talkers. They have a 20-year old son that’s in Japan in the Navy. They take us to a car rental place on American Alley where we can get a good deal – we are to drive the expensive white Nissan tonight and then exchange it tomorrow for the car in our budget.

balls

dough balls at Pizza Express

From there we follow them to base – Caleb’s second time driving in Bahrain. We meet Francis’ XO and they buy things for dinner at their house tonight. Amy is full of recommendations on what brands to buy and where to find the best deals. We stop at Baskin Robbins and I get a Love Potion #31 – ice cream, coffee, and bagels – some of the good treats on base. We go our separate ways at the NEX and buy sunscreen, a red coffee mug for me, a 12-pack of water, Cheerios, and a case of chili Ramen among other items that fit in two bags. On base it’s ok to cart your goods to the gate and then haul them to your car. NEX employees will come by when needed to bring them back to the store.

our rental car from Al Kobaisi

our rental car from Al Kobaisi

We waited to buy more fresh produce on the recommendation of Amy to go to Lulu’s Hypermarket. Caleb seems to drive there with ease only having one car drive in the same lane as us once. We missed a turn, but were quickly able to find our way along narrow streets filled with erratically parked cars, pedestrians, cyclists, and delivery trucks. I think of the restrictions of the U.S. and though they may be for ‘our safety’ here parking is a total freedom unless the lot has attendants and even then people park where space is available.

going up in Lulu's

going up in Lulu’s

We find parking in the garage and make our way inside. My eyes light up at the sight of a human conveyor belt making shopping a three or four-story mall with carts so convenient – and cool with air vents along the belt. I thought we would start at the top and make our way down, but I got caught at the size of the selections of food on the third floor. We grabbed a basket and made our way down every aisle and through the produce section. I look for paneer and settle for the ready-made boxed dinners with it included. To get our cheese fix we buy Mozzarella, Gouda, and Dutch smoked with pepper. We buy some black truffle oil, two flavors of raviolis, milk to go with the cereal, tomatoes, a mango, and some drinks to try.

got rice?

got rice?

On one floor there are kids starting a cake decorating contest. Any place that has air-conditioning is a great place to sell food, have plenty of seating, and events to entertain children while their parents shop. We head back to the car and Caleb hands me the key – so he can navigate. I could get used to this. It’s not so bad when the roads aren’t busy, otherwise it’s like rush hour in Miami. I unpack the groceries and sit down to write. I start to get tired so Caleb pours me a glass of Rockstar.

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What Time Zone Is It?

walking to the store - our hotel behind me

walking to the store – our hotel behind me

We aren’t going to sleep until 3am and I set my alarm for 7am so that I can try to get on a schedule and get over jet lag with shorter naps in the afternoon. I turned the air to 22.5 degrees throughout the rest of the place – the bedrooms have a separate thermometer, and then climbed under the thick and heavy blanket – no sheet – on the bed. I got up again to check on the dogs. Sparky was tucked into a corner of the couch and Piggy was sprawled out on the carpet. I went to bed happy that they were with us and expecting them to join us at some point – and it would happen, but not in a way I had thought of.

The bars don’t close until 4 and it somehow took the drunk people another hour to reach our door. I didn’t know that our room came with a doorbell until I was woken up to the sound of it. I peeked through the peephole to find a couple standing closely to it telling their friends that they will get in. By the time I could call the front desk – only two doors away – it was already being taken care of. Now with the dogs in bed with me I can go back to sleep for two hours and then go to the guest complimentary breakfast, served from 7 to 10, that others have bragged about.

Or I can stay in bed until 10am when the doorbell goes off again, but instead of ring, ding, ding, etc. it’s the houseboys with just one ring to let me know they are here to service my room. As I hold Sparky to keep him quiet I kindly decline this morning. We still have plenty of clean towels, extra soap, another bed to dirty the sheets, and though the floor may be dusty it’s something that I will need to get used to.

Outside the pool is full of boys with their fathers and uncles – some in the pool and others sunbathing. Caleb makes a to-do list while I check my email and then we make a shopping list. I fed the dogs and we’re getting ready to go. Caleb helps Piggy sit on the carpet so that she can barf on the tile. I didn’t measure out their food and she didn’t finish her bowl but she also didn’t chew half her meal so it found its way back up. I feel bad that they spent five days in a crate not eating or sleeping. They are happy for the endless food and air-conditioned sleep.

STOP at Amwaj Avenue

STOP at Amwaj Avenue

Caleb finds a grocery store nearby called Alosra, but his 1km turns into a 1.5 mile one-way trip. It’s ok though; as long as we are in the shade with the wind blowing it feels like a tropical paradise, but there is that reminder when we walk into the sun again that we are at the sun’s vacation resort where it’s only 95 degrees today. As we make our way there I can’t determine if I’m surprised by the lack of trash or that there are so many used water bottles along the route – didn’t know what to expect.

We should travel with water at all times as the instantaneous sweat will leave you swollen, red, and sick, and possibly delusional if you’re lucky, but sooner than you realize. All the signs are bilingual, the license plates too. There are lots of people on bikes carrying rakes, lawnmowers, and groceries. There are crosswalks in the most ‘visible’ areas between turns where sometimes you can stroll across and other times need to run between cars and still get honked at even though you’re now out of the street.

At the roundabout is a construction crew and part of the crosswalk is covered in their equipment. We walk closely to it until we can get back on the sidewalk. The workers are under the shade of the tree enjoying their long lunch break. I don’t blame them as I wouldn’t want to be playing in a hot sand pit under the desert sun in mid-day either. We walk by giant orange pots that are growing trees and then a sidewalk that goes between the water and the road (and more water on the other side) that is surrounded by trees.

We pass a couple other people making use of the shade too, then pass the new security gate in progress to enter Amwaj Islands, and the store comes into view – an air conditioned paradise. We buy me a bottle of Voss water from the deli, and though we’re not into buying artisan water I like the glass. I should buy one with a larger opening. Then we walk around the pet store where they sell rabbits and dog food – possibly the same thing in my dogs’ eyes. Back in the grocery store I get a sample of taro frozen yogurt, a beet hummus sandwich square, and strawberry yogurt.

largest terracotta pot I've seen

largest terracotta pot I’ve seen

Caleb likes the spicy hummus and we get a dish of that. We walk up and down each aisle. The fruits and vegetables department has a man with a scale that weighs and prices your food – that we forget to use for our bananas – that saves time at the register. There are meat, cheese, and bread counters. The food varies from American, to British, to Middle East, to Asian giving us plenty of comfort options to choose from, but also a plethora of new items to tempt our tastebuds. There is also a pork section hidden in the back of the store near the random assortment section.

We buy ass soap, dish soap, laundry soap, and hair soap; Hobnobs and Ribena that remind me of Indo-Euro in Phoenix; bottled water until we can get a water cooler; cheap crunchy peanut butter with rhubarb and ginger jelly on korn bread; Lindt chocolate and a Kinder Joy; some leek-potato soup, Brie cheese, and kiwis with a scoop/peeler included. I help bag our groceries so that I have a bag for each hand and Caleb gets a bag and the water. The sales clerk gets to sit in a chair all day and somehow seem to maintain a figure under their abaya.

The walk back to the room is just as much fun. Caleb is juggling the water as he tried to carry it by the plastic and it broke, but luckily stayed together to hold all the bottles in there – nothing a bag or two wouldn’t fix if we walked back to the store as long as the caps didn’t break on impact. Back at the hotel and our houseboy is at the neighbor’s. He comes over and whistles for the dogs that come to the kitchen to greet us. He wants to gauge their friendliness for when he cleans our room. Piggy says hello and he notices she’s blind. Sparky is either hoping for treats or wishing that he won’t be put in another crate for at least two years.

I write while Caleb reads. We start to feel sleepy so I suggest we turn on the TV. We watch the rest of Love and Other Drugs and get familiar with the popular commercials: one for Sedar Somfy – a curtain remote, one I want to record about the Freez drink, and one about a phone app – a man playing soccer with boys and realizes the ball is being controlled by a boy in the stands. We are watching Fox Movies – spoken in English with Arabic subtitles and when the station goes back to the film it sounds like A’hala Fucks Movies.

second roundabout en route

second roundabout en route

My pants were smelly and Caleb had started a load of laundry. We were waiting for them to finish when an alarm (like on a microwave) went off. Piggy decides to throw up again. I feel bad for them having to put up with jet lag and travel sickness and still need to look up what their plane and room in Amsterdam looked like – not that that will help with their condition. Caleb learned that you have to set the dryer at the same time as the wash – otherwise you have to rewash and ask your wife to wear something else. She puts on her pink, knee-length, dress and slips on her overly used Adidas to go for a walk now that the sun is down.

We walk the dogs first across the parking lot, down the stairs, and to the right behind the apartments in front of our hotel where there are twenty palm trees and a blanket of grass. At the end of the building, from an alley and behind a tree comes this fluffy white dog. Sparky was stealthy about it and there was no blood, but we had to wait for the family to catch up so that we could pass their pet that tried to follow us. The wife told me, “He don’t like that” as she pointed to Piggy’s leash. All other dogs have been on a leash and I don’t know the laws – not that it would matter if I did.

We take them back to the room, then head left from our door through the parking lot to the sidewalk that goes over a bridge. The night is cool at 97 degrees with a slight breeze. One of the floating tables from Yamin Jana are being used and I look forward to us trying it soon. The bridge is just as exciting as I thought it would be. There are lights, and buildings, and people running and walking their dogs… and then we notice the couple in a hot tub that looks like a washing machine exploded with bubbles and a sexual rhythm between them. I can hear the gears in Caleb’s head turning. You’ll know if we get a hot tub if I send out a request for Mr. Bubbles.

We continue our walk past nice compounds and construction sites. Some guys holler, others honk, and one sits in a roundabout to stare. I wonder if the lady that passed us took some video. We walk across another bridge and onto the beach on our return – where there is no fishing or swimming allowed, but on this side of the bridge we notice a float to keep the ocean and bay separate. I think about walking on it some time and we notice two guys using it to get back into their canoe. Then I remember that we haven’t eaten dinner yet and it’s after 7pm.

Caleb on the loveseat

Caleb on the loveseat

We thought we decided on Muju for dinner but when we walked into the sports bar and asked about outdoor seating we were told it was for VIP (referring to the covered area with a personal TV and seating for five), so we sat at the nearest table and were brought menus for Corners. The place is covered in soccer photos, country flags and big screens. The wait staff all have soccer related shirts on. The table next to us is full of women covered in make-up and wearing just enough dressy attire to cover their tits and ass. Usually as an American I would consider this normal, but sitting here I feel like I’m at the Bunny Ranch on lunch break. It makes me wonder how much skin I should be showing.

The first thing I see on the menu is the bar’s ten commandments – one being: Thou shalt not look for eye contact, especially at the opposite sex as they will most likely ignore you. I tell Caleb it’s getting easier to avoid looking at men and not responding to their Good Mornings and How Are You’s. It feels awkward, but they do seem to be directed towards Caleb and I don’t want to make them uncomfortable since I’m a guest in their country.

My advice though – ask someone that’s lived where you’re going what it’s like and what not to do. Don’t listen to the scare tactics that the media or military use, as most people ignore them here anyways – dressing inappropriately and going to the off-limits areas. It’s smart to take it into consideration when not sure or doing research – better safe than sorry.

We order tea that’s sweet, a Greek salad with bread slices, and a grilled veggie sandwich – eggplant, bell pepper, cheese, etc. – with fries and romaine on the side. We dip the fries in Heinz 57 and take half the salad to go. We add that to-go bag to our growing collection under the sink, put the leftovers in the fridge, and it’s off to wink town for us.

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