Day Nineteen – We’re Off to See McDonald’s

Caleb drives Gert and me to the trailhead outside of the park, saving us some road-walking, but it skips a mile of trail, which brings my total missed to about 198 miles. I have Gert turn on my Garmin after 15 minutes when I remember. The hills are nice with warm and chilly breezes. The clouds are bursting with color.

The bushes are covered in webs waiting to hit my face if I don’t get them with my trekking poles first, and Gert is kind enough to remind me as it clears his path too. Yesterday’s incline was more gradual and the shadows longer. Gert has a cell signal and uses it to call work. He is leaving the trail after his wife comes because he’s answered the questions he brought with him.

Woolly Blue Curls

He’s speaking in Dutch so I don’t understand him, but a laugh is international and his is full of youth. Trailer Park will join us at 7am and tells us that Rachel chose to take a zero. She is quickly learning from Gert and Ravi’s blisters what not to do, so we are happy with her choice. She and Caleb will drop Jessi in San Bernardino so she can take the bus to the airport.

Her visit was short and sweet and left a mark on our tramily. If she can handle the desert with such grace, I hope she’s able to return and show the others how to hike a forest. Though maybe one of these times she’ll wear her pack. We admire the views and chat occasionally. Otherwise, we are in our heads, twirling our poles (I’m not there yet), or just trying to take it all in.

photo by Lieutenant Sparkles

Trailer Park had his phone ready if we needed to order ahead, but we reached the sign with 0.4 miles to go before 10am. Caleb and Rachel are at Cajon Junction waiting to give us a ride to McDonald’s. If it were just Caleb and me, we’d have walked on, but this golden arched establishment is a point on the trail that many hikers look forward to.

I used to love their fries until they got rid of the trans fats, and Caleb makes a better version of their McGriddle, so it’s been years since we’ve eaten here. I get my excitement up when I see a s’mores McFlurry poster on the window and am disappointed in their advertising when I get a vanilla soft serve with sprinkles instead.

You order from a screen and take a number. I got an ice cream and a chicken McGriddle because I knew I needed the calories. An employee asks if we’re hikers and hands over four apple pies. We are delighted and all having a good time, except for Troll who is wondering which person took his smokes. He has a PCT tag on his large pack and tells us he’ll camp nearby again and head out later.

Lieutenant Sparkles

We’re still sitting there while others order more food, make good use of the restroom, and charge what they can in the two outlets provided when we are given bags of biscuits and McGriddle bread labeled for donation. The same employee quickly brings over paper bags to hide the evidence of her kindness. We return to our current base camp, now site 39 in the most shade, and leave Rachel to nap while Trailer Park is on the phone.

We drive into Wrightwood to pick up Gert’s resupply and buy some meat to go with all the free bread. It’s a good thing Mountain Hardware is next to the post office. The sign out back says we are 373 miles from Mexico and the three hiker boxes have some used fuel cans that Trailer Park can transfer into his later. As part of Gert’s return home plan, he needs to sign something and send it back.

We go to the library where he’s able to do that and then to the store for a fruit tray and veggie tray to go with the chicken patties and spicy meatless sausage. We start dinner at 430 and as we’re heating up apple pies an hour and a half later, Ravi is just getting started.

We clean up camp after he’s had a chance to eat because I’m more concerned with squirrels and birds than any bears. We hear him crunching through half a bag of cereal like a raccoon after the rest of us have crawled into our tents for the night. This isn’t the first time our schedules have been off.

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Day Eighteen – Hopping Down the Trail of Bones

Caleb drops Gert and me back to Mile 314.3 so we can hike our way back to camp. We will be starting 5.5 hours earlier than yesterday. The shade is kind and the color-changing clouds keep us company while we make miles going around the hills. We see more living rabbits than we do the carcass scraps we passed dangling in the bushes.

The sun doesn’t reach us until 8, and the rooster at the nearby ranch must have been sleeping in because he’s late to crow, but as he does, the dog and sheep join in the chorus. We do some road walking and then we see the lake, the same lake we were at yesterday. It starts to heat up at 10, and I keep looking for a beach to stop at, as it seems we will walk half the circumference of this park.

Lieutenant Sparkles road-walking

Gert reminds me that if we stop now, we will have to wait hours to get back to camp, so I keep going. Caleb and Jessi pick us up where the trail crosses the camp road after 14.5 miles. Gert and I will rinse off in the outdoor shower, and I will go into the bathroom to wring my clothes out and then stand in the sun. We will try to nap while brother and sister go to rescue Rachel and Trailer Park.

Plummer’s Mariposa lily

He gets cold easily but knows the importance of rinsing off and lying on the dark, rough pavement to dry instead of the smoother stuff that’s lighter. Rachel will take her sweaty body amidst a family in the lake and then offer to change so our car doesn’t get wet. If only every passenger were as thoughtful.

photo by Lieutenant Sparkles

Caleb will take them to camp first so they can set up their tents while Gert and I watch a mom and kid squirrel go about trying to look for food while also avoiding the tourists who give them no notice. We start making dinner immediately but I still want mine ready without giving the food a chance to reabsorb water, so I will eat some of my noodles and some of Caleb’s potatoes that rehydrate faster.

Lieutenant Sparkles, Caleb, Jessi

I snack on pickles and slice up the perfect-sized watermelon Caleb and Jessi bought so that there’s no leftovers. They also bought marshmallows but it’s hard for hikers to stay up late enough to make them. Tent time is around six, but I’m too sweaty again so I wait with Rachel for our tents to get shade and come back out later to cool off again so I can finally fall asleep.

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Day Seventeen – Silverwood Lake

a snake in the shade

Caleb got up early to drop Trailer Park and Rachel back on Coxey Rd. where they will hike mostly west and meet us in two days at Silverwood Lake. When he returns and says my name, it wakes me and Ravi. I will drop him near Doble Camp at 8 so he’s not missing miles. He’s worried about Kaito finding a ride from the hostel with his language barrier but Ravi got picked up by someone who spoke Spanish and he’s fine.

melty views looking north

I get gas on the way back to camp for the others, thinking I’ll save time, but it turns out the northern route (through Lucerne Valley) is faster than driving through Crestline to get Gert, Jessi, and me to the section of PCT we will hike. It would have been great to start at least an hour or two sooner but not everyone was on the same schedule.

Jessi cooling off

Caleb drops us off at Mile 314.3 and we plan to hike six miles to the hot springs, where we hope to see Trailer Park and Rachel. Jessi takes her shoes off for the water crossing. Forty minutes in, we see a snake and I’m unsure if we spooked it from eating the lizard or if it was already in a hurry. The trees down below, as we climb higher, are enticing.

Jessi makes a jump for the shade and I know she’s hot, but she’s also wearing the least, carrying the least, and coming from elevation, so we press on in the crushing late morning heat. We stop for water, but it’s evaporating from our hoses and bottles before we can consume enough, and though Gert is ever positive, I make the decision to turn around at two miles.

We climb up the sand of the first shade tree and Gert pours water on Jessi while we have a snack. Gert and I will make another dry crossing over the stream while Jessi hands over her phone and gets in. The walk back is in better spirits knowing we’ll be out of the heat soon. I’m glad we’re not the only ones who realize how crazy it is to subject ourselves to these conditions, daily.

Silverwood Lake

Caleb is tracking me and will be there waiting when we return at 1pm. He drives us to the day use area because site 37 is in full sun. We celebrate with oatmeal cookie ice cream sandwiches and cold drinks before the three of them jump in the lake. I’m able to get almost to my knees in algae that smells like fish farts. We set up our tents practically in another site, so we switched to site 38.

Jessi and dog

I’m ready for sleep and attempt to do so at 530 but the tent is in the warm light and I get too sweaty inside. I try opening the doors and lying down, but that doesn’t work either. I joined the table for dinner and Gert gave me his spicy rice and made another meal, even though that’s what Caleb was in the process of doing. I’m grateful to be taken care of out here and say hi to the neighbor’s dog when it comes over. As soon as there is a sliver of darkness on the tent, I climb in.

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Day Sixteen – Happy Birthday Ravi

Gert and Caleb at the preserve

The toilet seems so far away, especially when the distance off-trail required is only 200 feet. Half of us are up early even though we agreed there was no rush today, so I go back to sleep. I’ll be up again soon jogging to the bathroom in sandals. Trailer Park and Caleb are great at being up early. My voice seems to get increasingly louder until everyone is up enjoying breakfast and conversation.

I drop Trailer Park and Rachel at 1045 about a mile from the PCT on Coxey Rd. It’s mostly dirt but has a paved portion, and then it gets worse. They will hike back to camp. The four of us (Caleb, Jess, Gert, and Jessi) will spend the day on the town. We start at the post office and pick up resupply boxes for us and Gert. We go to CVS to look for a certain nail polish color for Rachel and leave with four sparkly options.

Caleb, Jessi, and Gert at Big Bear Lake

We went to Big 5 looking for a coffee cup for Jessi and ended up finding a new hooded shirt for me in a shade of bright. The place looks like a fishing cabin from the outside, but Big Bear Sporting Goods has many treasures inside for outdoor enthusiasts. Jessi gets a cup and buys us stickers after we look through the binder of availability. Gert is always ready for a good cup of coffee and some mountain elevation.

Across the street is a Tea and Coffee Exchange where he not only buys us each a drink but a snack to go with it since it is lunchtime. Once our baked goods are devoured, we take our sugary beverages (part of a healthy hiker diet) to the boardwalk of the preserve we were at yesterday so Gert and Jessi can see the cooties. Young animals are cute regardless of the species.

old Fawnskin post office

Gert wants to check out the observatory, but the world’s largest aperture and highest resolution solar telescope is behind a locked gate. Its lake location minimizes image blurring caused by atmospheric turbulence. We drive further to Captain John’s Marina where a group of photo enthusiasts (the larger the lens, the bigger the interest) are on a hillside waiting for a glimpse of the bald eagles and their eaglets.

The marina’s ramp entrance is blocked but the men standing outside the shop let us know there is public lake access further west (also east, but they might charge there). Trailer Park has reached camp and is enjoying pickles and cookies and I respond to his photo with a picture of brother and sister in matching attire with Gert on the small boat dock. We touch the cold water which wouldn’t be an issue for these non-chickens to jump into on a warmer afternoon.

We drive to the Big Bear Discovery Center where they offer guided hikes, have taxidermy animals on display, and sell stickers! I find a Woodsy Owl one that matches one of Trailer Park’s tattoos and have to get it for him. We return to camp and wait for Rachel to arrive. She left Doble Camp an hour and a half after us this morning. I will take her and Trailer Park into town to pick up Ravi. He walked up to a parking lot from the park, so I honked to get his attention.

We apologize for our behavior to the guy minding his business on the stairs as we laugh about Ravi looking the other way. While they are exploring the wonders of Grocery Outlet (and cheaper food prices) I will get Caleb a pair of camp shorts from Marshall’s next door. Ravi, like any other teenage boy, is always in need of a shower and laundry.

Caleb

I throw the rest of our clothes in the wash with his while they walk through Dollar Tree for random goodies. A guy outside the laundromat offers to sell me a $40 walking stick and I let him know I would need two, but his is thick, heavy, and doesn’t collapse, so I will keep the ones I have. Rachel doesn’t feel like having Caleb cook like he did last night when Trailer Park brought food to camp, so she offers takeout instead.

Maggio’s pizza will bake us two large – one meat, one pineapple to go with vanilla cupcakes and fresh blueberries for Ravi’s birthday dinner. We didn’t know that he didn’t know how to eat pizza and have a laugh when he gets more than sauce on the table and himself. It’s a good thing he didn’t paint his own nails. I let Jessi paint mine and was thrilled to have a matching sparkly shade of purple with Caleb while the others let Rachel use all four colors.

Lieutenant Sparkles and Junior Sparkles

The rest of the evening has us in giggles as the guys aren’t used to anything on their nails, which is why I usually only paint my toenails now, so they are acting dainty until they dry as they go about planning for the next two days – finding water sources and packing food. The splash of color causes a distraction and forces a pose. I’m glad we could find a group also willing to wear matching rainbow bracelets.

For this reason, I will tell the two sites across from us at 1030 that, “There are quiet hours because not everyone is on the same schedule.” My voice is a bit raspy from all the smoke as other campers let their fires pretend to burn out instead of drowning them, by law. Some hikers bring earplugs to block sounds that come with camping in groups, especially with the possibility of snoring and loud sleeping pads, but others prefer the noises that come with nature.

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Day Fifteen – Land of Chipmunks

Gert and I leave camp at 610, and 15 minutes later, I stop to take my jacket off. There’s a trail saying, “Be bold, start cold” for a reason. My jacket is so efficient that I go from feeling warm to struggling to get it off before it cooks me. I’ll take a lot of spider webs to the face and my right pole is streaming with them. This hike is beautiful and enjoyable and we don’t have to focus on our feet.

California flannelbush

We keep expecting to be passed by Trailer Park or Rachel and stop at a stream where we both see a mouse, just not the same one. We stop for a snack at 930 and Trailer Park catches up. He tells us that Rachel stayed behind to call her sister and wasn’t sure about Lyric. I led the three of us through the increase in day hikers and the mountain biker who had to walk his ride over the rocks. It’s a three-mile hike from the PCT to our spot in Serrano Campground that we reach before noon.

The woman at the booth recognized me and gave us the hangtag for the site. She held onto the one Caleb would need when he arrives with his sister, Jessi, from the Ontario International Airport (the one in California as the province in Canada has many, but they prefer to call theirs Moosonee and Muskrat). They will reach camp with cookies and Gatorade before Rachel.

The push-button showers are the closest I’ve come to the prison version. You have to lean into the button and the water sprays into your soul and over 85% of the room. I’m not able to scrub much nor do I want to. I turn around as long as my patience will allow because I know I need a good rinse and then I can return to our camp for a live episode of MASH.

Caleb is helping Jessi perform first aid on Gert’s infected blisters, and if she hadn’t thought what was coming out was so gross, perhaps I’d have a picture to share. I can tell you the size of misfortune he and Ravi are willing to put up with is ridiculous. I’d still be limping in the shade somewhere begging the squirrels to bring me food while my wounds healed – or at a medical clinic!

photos by Gert

When Rachel is cleaned up we will go with Trailer Park to town so we can do laundry and get groceries for the evening. It’s $2.50 to wash and I forgot to bring Caleb’s stuff and half of mine. We ran the dryer for a bit but agreed to hang our stuff upon return. Trailer Park decides to treat us to grilled chicken, salad, corn on the cob, and asparagus among the many other foods we will consume.

Jess, Jessi, Caleb, Gert, Rachel, Trailer Park

A hiker’s hunger is like a group of teenage boys who have been outside playing all day and forgot to eat. People give me a hard time about the amount of food I’m able to consume off-trail while also claiming I eat like a bird. Out here, we eat to keep our muscles and faces from disappearing. Dinner was delicious, and Rachel got dessert. We climb into our tents at 830.

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