Day 21 – A Day in Wrightwood

Trailer Park is always the first one up. We have leftovers from the night before, and then I start the Airbnb check-out list: leave it clean, and make sure we have everything we came with. Caleb and I drive up to Table Mountain Campground at 830 to reserve a spot. We pay at North Lodge for what looks like one of the two remaining sites.

I drop Gert and Rachel off at camp so they can set up their tents while I take Ravi back to town so he can find another group to hike out with later (but sooner than us). I’ll drop Trailer Park in town, so he can help Ravi (and they can enjoy a large and amazing breakfast) while Caleb and I go by the National Forest Interpretive Center to find out that the two volunteers know less than he does about which roads are closed.

Apparently, someone is giving out tickets if drivers or hikers are found in a closure area around Wrightwood, so we want to avoid that but also find a way back onto the trail. Caleb sets up our tent, and the four of us go to Grizzly Cafe, where we are seated with the lunch menu as Ravi leaves with Seeker, who is hiking with Greg and Nightcap.

The waitress was sweet to bring me blueberries with my Monte Cristo (closest thing to French toast) when she knew I wanted breakfast. This cafe is also popular with bikers who occupy most of the outside seating (way better than inside). On our way out, Gert and Rachel need stickers and cookies. I take a quarter from the coin tray to operate the moose head on the wall.

license plate art

We can’t understand him, but the kid’s mom at the bar will record it moving, and it seems like we made their morning. We walk to Mountain Hardware so Rachel can sign the hiker log and talk to two hikers from Denmark who are also looking for a way around the closure. We were headed to the Ruff Around arcade next, but got distracted by the offer of free ice cream at the social (that we didn’t find, even if we could hear the music).

It’s $13 an hour so no one wants to hang out with cats. We walk into the Community Center instead and get Mountain High stickers and I get a red bracelet, “I love to read.” A woman in there suggests the museum so we walk over there. This area is on an earthquake fault and subject to wildfires, hence the heroes who saved the ski resort, a mountain biking station in the summer.

I’m curious to see the old firehouse that remains upstairs. As I climb the carpeted steps I’m transported back to my grandma’s house in the 80s when brown interior was in fashion. The heat quickly removes Caleb, who gets to listen to the docent downstairs (who he and Gert agree is as old as the museum).

She tells them that half the castle arch over the road was removed to fit tour buses from Los Angeles. While they are still listening, I wander outside to see the old mining gear and the inside of a tourist cabin (too much luggage for me). Rachel is on a bench out front catching a nap while Trailer Park is hiding and waiting for us. I start to walk away and soon we are a group again.

We get to North Lodge in the afternoon, missing the grand opening at one of Mountain High’s other locations, where they had giveaways, as the one we passed was closed. Some of us have ice cream (Starburst is better as a candy) and Rachel is ready for another nap. Caleb will show Trailer Park where the camp is, so Gert and I find out the event is just across the road from us.

We drive down there and Gert is able to get a Sunbum sunscreen and a sticker that’s been run over from the traveling DJs, one from London who played his first gig at a place in Utrecht, so they think we’re both from the Netherlands. They tell us to ask for Todd, the manager, who has more stickers. We agreed later that he doesn’t exist and have drinks at camp after a traffic jam at our site because cars have to back in.

There is a concert from 5-8pm, and we know we have to go to bed early, but we are fading fast. Caleb drops Gert and me back to Rachel while he takes Trailer Park into town for gas. I can’t wait any longer and snuggle on my loud tent pad at 530pm. There will only be a concert for Rachel who was distracted by her phone inside and the last to bed.

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Day Twenty – Friday the 13th

Silverwood Lake

Rachel is up and on her way to hike to McDonald’s at 5am, road-walking included, when a car alarm wakes me. Trailer Park is on the phone and Gert is sleeping in. Caleb has coffee, and Ravi is looking for one gaiter he lost (part of the set Caleb sold him at Serrano) and is still wondering what happened to his knife, necklace, and spoon.

He’ll ask who’s hiking with him and Gert tells him Rachel left three hours ago. He finishes packing up after us and leaves 15 minutes later. We’re not in a rush because we are going to meet Rachel and the guys are going to get some more miles with her before a night in Wrightwood at an Airbnb (not one of the listed ones in the hardware store that cost twice as much).

Grizzly Cafe

We get to McDonald’s about half an hour before Rachel’s arrival, who wants to wait for lunch before they go. We have to witness a Karen yelling for the manager about wanting breakfast (after they stopped serving it) and then something about her drink cup. She was very obnoxious and the staff handled the situation well.

Gert tells me that his wife is enjoying reading my blog and that she tells him that I take better pictures. Caleb says it’s because I post photos of him, not just lizards and trees. Troll is there again today and has made a long-haired friend. It’s fun to play hiker or homeless and this trail is a great place to be both.

Rachel’s legs

We return to the hardware store to weigh our bags, mine is 28 pounds with maybe a day of food, and no bear can. We order drinks – strawberry lemonade and raspberry tea and sit outside at Grizzly Cafe so I can get some writing done. Caleb is picking up the group from Swarthout Canyon Rd. and will be gone for over an hour as he gives another hiker a ride.

Gert shared his position but not that they stopped for water. Caleb will drop them off at a shady spot in the park and return for me. We get free refills and I appreciate the generosity towards thru-hikers. We wait 20 minutes at the skate park while watching a dad with pins and stitches in his leg fall down in front of his three kids.

Wrightwood Airbnb

One of his daughters trips into the packs and apologizes. I let her know that she’ll do more damage to herself than to these rugged sacks that we’ve already put through so much, such as throwing one down and sitting on it, because bringing a sit pad and getting it out is more work. I’m glad we waited to check in as I was sure there’d be a camera.

The place is cozy and the amenities amazing – heated toilet seat, white noise machine, extra blankets, air already on, tea options, and plenty of sitting and sleep spots. I will start laundry as soon as Gert, the last to shower, tosses his dirty clothes out. I have my sandals on to go outside and the washing machine is the dirtiest thing about this place, but it comes with soap.

tea with a gift from Trailer Park

The first load is done about 45 minutes later, but it seems dirtier than when it went in, so I wash it again and accidentally hit the 15-minute soak with the 2nd spin option, so it will be a while before I can start the second load. Conveniently, we all have different colors and designs on our clothes, except for Caleb and Rachel’s socks – both Injinji and both with holes.

Rachel and Trailer Park walk to the store so that they can make Dino Nugs, mac-n-cheese, and mixed vegetables for the tramily dinner after calling me and asking if we would eat it… not sure if asking permission or wondering about allergies. I help wash some dishes and remind Ravi to clean his. I’ll start the second load of laundry and enjoy baked s’mores while watching The Barkley Marathons.

Trailer Park, Caleb, Lieutenant Sparkles

Trailer Park and Rachel retire to the bunk beds upstairs with their phones and Ravi has his wet laundry on the dusty table outside after turning the washing machine off to unlock the lid. I lock the doors at 9, find Ravi’s bracelet in the shower and put it on the bar, and climb into bed after Ravi goes upstairs to cowboy camp so Gert can set up the pull-out in the living room.

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Day Nineteen – We’re Off to See McDonald’s

Caleb drives Gert and me to the trailhead outside of the park, saving us some road-walking, but it skips a mile of trail, which brings my total missed to about 198 miles. I have Gert turn on my Garmin after 15 minutes when I remember. The hills are nice with warm and chilly breezes. The clouds are bursting with color.

The bushes are covered in webs waiting to hit my face if I don’t get them with my trekking poles first, and Gert is kind enough to remind me as it clears his path too. Yesterday’s incline was more gradual and the shadows longer. Gert has a cell signal and uses it to call work. He is leaving the trail after his wife comes because he’s answered the questions he brought with him.

Woolly Blue Curls

He’s speaking in Dutch so I don’t understand him, but a laugh is international and his is full of youth. Trailer Park will join us at 7am and tells us that Rachel chose to take a zero. She is quickly learning from Gert and Ravi’s blisters what not to do, so we are happy with her choice. She and Caleb will drop Jessi in San Bernardino so she can take the bus to the airport.

Her visit was short and sweet and left a mark on our tramily. If she can handle the desert with such grace, I hope she’s able to return and show the others how to hike a forest. Though maybe one of these times she’ll wear her pack. We admire the views and chat occasionally. Otherwise, we are in our heads, twirling our poles (I’m not there yet), or just trying to take it all in.

photo by Lieutenant Sparkles

Trailer Park had his phone ready if we needed to order ahead, but we reached the sign with 0.4 miles to go before 10am. Caleb and Rachel are at Cajon Junction waiting to give us a ride to McDonald’s. If it were just Caleb and me, we’d have walked on, but this golden arched establishment is a point on the trail that many hikers look forward to.

I used to love their fries until they got rid of the trans fats, and Caleb makes a better version of their McGriddle, so it’s been years since we’ve eaten here. I get my excitement up when I see a s’mores McFlurry poster on the window and am disappointed in their advertising when I get a vanilla soft serve with sprinkles instead.

You order from a screen and take a number. I got an ice cream and a chicken McGriddle because I knew I needed the calories. An employee asks if we’re hikers and hands over four apple pies. We are delighted and all having a good time, except for Troll who is wondering which person took his smokes. He has a PCT tag on his large pack and tells us he’ll camp nearby again and head out later.

Lieutenant Sparkles

We’re still sitting there while others order more food, make good use of the restroom, and charge what they can in the two outlets provided when we are given bags of biscuits and McGriddle bread labeled for donation. The same employee quickly brings over paper bags to hide the evidence of her kindness. We return to our current base camp, now site 39 in the most shade, and leave Rachel to nap while Trailer Park is on the phone.

We drive into Wrightwood to pick up Gert’s resupply and buy some meat to go with all the free bread. It’s a good thing Mountain Hardware is next to the post office. The sign out back says we are 373 miles from Mexico and the three hiker boxes have some used fuel cans that Trailer Park can transfer into his later. As part of Gert’s return home plan, he needs to sign something and send it back.

We go to the library where he’s able to do that and then to the store for a fruit tray and veggie tray to go with the chicken patties and spicy meatless sausage. We start dinner at 430 and as we’re heating up apple pies an hour and a half later, Ravi is just getting started.

We clean up camp after he’s had a chance to eat because I’m more concerned with squirrels and birds than any bears. We hear him crunching through half a bag of cereal like a raccoon after the rest of us have crawled into our tents for the night. This isn’t the first time our schedules have been off.

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Day Eighteen – Hopping Down the Trail of Bones

Caleb drops Gert and me back to Mile 314.3 so we can hike our way back to camp. We will be starting 5.5 hours earlier than yesterday. The shade is kind and the color-changing clouds keep us company while we make miles going around the hills. We see more living rabbits than we do the carcass scraps we passed dangling in the bushes.

The sun doesn’t reach us until 8, and the rooster at the nearby ranch must have been sleeping in because he’s late to crow, but as he does, the dog and sheep join in the chorus. We do some road walking and then we see the lake, the same lake we were at yesterday. It starts to heat up at 10, and I keep looking for a beach to stop at, as it seems we will walk half the circumference of this park.

Lieutenant Sparkles road-walking

Gert reminds me that if we stop now, we will have to wait hours to get back to camp, so I keep going. Caleb and Jessi pick us up where the trail crosses the camp road after 14.5 miles. Gert and I will rinse off in the outdoor shower, and I will go into the bathroom to wring my clothes out and then stand in the sun. We will try to nap while brother and sister go to rescue Rachel and Trailer Park.

Plummer’s Mariposa lily

He gets cold easily but knows the importance of rinsing off and lying on the dark, rough pavement to dry instead of the smoother stuff that’s lighter. Rachel will take her sweaty body amidst a family in the lake and then offer to change so our car doesn’t get wet. If only every passenger were as thoughtful.

photo by Lieutenant Sparkles

Caleb will take them to camp first so they can set up their tents while Gert and I watch a mom and kid squirrel go about trying to look for food while also avoiding the tourists who give them no notice. We start making dinner immediately but I still want mine ready without giving the food a chance to reabsorb water, so I will eat some of my noodles and some of Caleb’s potatoes that rehydrate faster.

Lieutenant Sparkles, Caleb, Jessi

I snack on pickles and slice up the perfect-sized watermelon Caleb and Jessi bought so that there’s no leftovers. They also bought marshmallows but it’s hard for hikers to stay up late enough to make them. Tent time is around six, but I’m too sweaty again so I wait with Rachel for our tents to get shade and come back out later to cool off again so I can finally fall asleep.

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Day Seventeen – Silverwood Lake

a snake in the shade

Caleb got up early to drop Trailer Park and Rachel back on Coxey Rd. where they will hike mostly west and meet us in two days at Silverwood Lake. When he returns and says my name, it wakes me and Ravi. I will drop him near Doble Camp at 8 so he’s not missing miles. He’s worried about Kaito finding a ride from the hostel with his language barrier but Ravi got picked up by someone who spoke Spanish and he’s fine.

melty views looking north

I get gas on the way back to camp for the others, thinking I’ll save time, but it turns out the northern route (through Lucerne Valley) is faster than driving through Crestline to get Gert, Jessi, and me to the section of PCT we will hike. It would have been great to start at least an hour or two sooner but not everyone was on the same schedule.

Jessi cooling off

Caleb drops us off at Mile 314.3 and we plan to hike six miles to the hot springs, where we hope to see Trailer Park and Rachel. Jessi takes her shoes off for the water crossing. Forty minutes in, we see a snake and I’m unsure if we spooked it from eating the lizard or if it was already in a hurry. The trees down below, as we climb higher, are enticing.

Jessi makes a jump for the shade and I know she’s hot, but she’s also wearing the least, carrying the least, and coming from elevation, so we press on in the crushing late morning heat. We stop for water, but it’s evaporating from our hoses and bottles before we can consume enough, and though Gert is ever positive, I make the decision to turn around at two miles.

We climb up the sand of the first shade tree and Gert pours water on Jessi while we have a snack. Gert and I will make another dry crossing over the stream while Jessi hands over her phone and gets in. The walk back is in better spirits knowing we’ll be out of the heat soon. I’m glad we’re not the only ones who realize how crazy it is to subject ourselves to these conditions, daily.

Silverwood Lake

Caleb is tracking me and will be there waiting when we return at 1pm. He drives us to the day use area because site 37 is in full sun. We celebrate with oatmeal cookie ice cream sandwiches and cold drinks before the three of them jump in the lake. I’m able to get almost to my knees in algae that smells like fish farts. We set up our tents practically in another site, so we switched to site 38.

Jessi and dog

I’m ready for sleep and attempt to do so at 530 but the tent is in the warm light and I get too sweaty inside. I try opening the doors and lying down, but that doesn’t work either. I joined the table for dinner and Gert gave me his spicy rice and made another meal, even though that’s what Caleb was in the process of doing. I’m grateful to be taken care of out here and say hi to the neighbor’s dog when it comes over. As soon as there is a sliver of darkness on the tent, I climb in.

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