Saving Others in the Sultanate of Oman

Silly me to think I’d have all the same foods to choose from the breakfast buffet. We woke up earlier this morning just so that I’d have more time to get a second plate, but I still got the Waldorf salad — just apples, sambar rice without veggies or soup, and a grilled tomato. It’s amazing the variety of color in my diet when someone else does all the prep work — and this is healthier than filling up on sugar cookies with tea.

look for the octopus
picking up plastic

The shuttle is called and I get in and scoot over to make room for my husband when the boy with peach fuzz on his upper lip named Bart almost takes out my hand in a rush to sit next to me. I smile as I can hear Caleb and the boy’s mom laughing behind me. She’s about the size of her daughter and they were cold on yesterday’s ride so they asked the shop about sweaters. There weren’t any in Caleb’s size so I took one that will now be my designated dive hoodie and he can appreciate it on me.

Caleb and I watched an octopus climb under a large rock and instead of coming out of hiding to entertain the tourists he began to pull another rock in the hole he entered as more protection and camouflage. Back on board, I will learn a lesson about sitting next to my gear. I thought I saw this guy’s ass crack swallow my spare regulator (also called octopus), but luckily I was still seeing its bright yellow because it was turned the other way safely towards my BCD, but not something I want to risk thinking about the next time it goes near my mouth.

blacktip reef shark

That same guy would later hit my knee with his set up as he had trouble getting in and out of his gear every time. It makes sense why he was in search of fins so desperately asking each person about the perks of theirs (and being offered to try different ones, which I hadn’t thought of, just been exposed to) and so surprised at our enthusiasm for diving as much as weather and company would allow in our time here, though I could’ve squeezed in a few more minutes each dive had I known they weren’t setting a timer, as we still had plenty of air.

Our second dive started with spotting the blacktip reef shark that quickly became a blur. They are about five feet long and no more than 30 pounds and though they attack one wading person every five years they’re on the Near-Threatened list for their meat, oil, and fins from being fished off the coasts of India and Thailand. It was such a beautiful dive full of clownfish in their anemones, sea cucumbers on the sand, shellfish in cracks, pufferfish floating, boxfish eating, lionfish hiding, a crown-of-thorns starfish, white peppered moray eel, and small pipefish (in the seahorse family).

We swam over and through some large rocks and I saw a large fishing net strangling coral, but Caleb said it was too much and illegal to disturb the environment (which I would leave alone if the rope had growth) but I saw a happy eel and some swimming fish so we kept on moving until I saw a crab tangled in another pile who just happened to be next to a lionfish and urchin (both with pointy dangerous parts) and I had to hold the rope to stay steady enough to use my tiny blunt-tipped knife for the first time. Caleb held the crab who seemed to cooperate at first as there was so much netting around his eight legs and got more frightened as he got more freedom, so I let him hold my knife handle while we worked off more with our fingers.

marbled rock crab

That took up some of our dive time, about ten minutes at least, so we decided to turn around and wouldn’t you know it… that fishing net that we had passed earlier had captured a victim in the time it took us to release the crab. This time it was a broomtail wrasse and he was already cut deep which made me want to cry more but I was so angry at the situation and wanted to stay and cut it all away (even if it meant switching tanks underwater) but I left the fish hiding under a rock and passed a turtle on the way back to the boat. I can’t help but wonder which animal will be next.

There is a crab taking advantage of his picnic in the sea on the next dock over when we return to drop the others off and have a box lunch with a slider in place of the delicious mini everything bagel (should’ve left the chef a note) that I was looking forward to. With not as much time to explore, we will take to the yacht side of the marina and have a peek at the outside of these million-dollar crafts with monthly payments that cost as much as I can afford on a new car (on a 15-year loan).

Mich asks if we want a guide for the afternoon as we will have the boat to ourselves. I offer that he can join us, but he’s not getting in unless he’s getting paid (those are the rules). We see some purple tang, pennant coralfish, big booty starfish (pin cushion sea star), Indo-Pacific sargeant fish, hard and soft coral, fish that like to rest in the sand in groups and then Caleb swims up to show me the picture he just took of my fins and a sea turtle. I’m happy that he got to see what I swam over on this low visibility and high surge dive.

scorpion fish

With no other divers back at the shop we take off on foot to enjoy the afternoon walking by perfectly trimmed hedges and through the one-lane tunnel with a 90-second red light for cars and a separate space for pedestrians (which makes me wonder about the footprints on the inches of dirt available, possibly just to avoid the stairs). The shop rinses our gear and keeps it overnight, but they don’t charge our batteries (so it’s a good thing Caleb brought a power bank since we forgot last night) and left the GoPro tonight so we will take the shuttle back.

jewel moray eel

Four women join us on the bus — two for the Omani Heritage Village (that they weren’t impressed with) and two for the #BajOman sign near the marina though they were told they weren’t allowed in — which I understand with the super expensive yachts and dive boats why the hotel would want to limit liability. I was going to wait on the bus but offered to take a picture from every angle for both of them and individually. I also asked the bus driver to stop at the top of the hill so they could get a few more. We pick up the other two on our return to the hotel.

Trying to ask questions at the front desk can seem pointless as though the hotel’s website lists all the languages spoken at the resort it doesn’t claim that all of them will be understood by different staff and that’s reasonable, but it doesn’t stop me from trying as we got spoiled when we arrived. People come with individual strengths and knowing when to keep my mouth to myself is not one of mine. I just wanted to make sure that I was enjoying my stay to the fullest (though I didn’t know what that meant), but that’s for another day.

big booty starfish (pin cushion sea star)

We will have dinner at Samba because it’s the closest restaurant with outdoor seating and has veggie options. I get the lentil soup and hummus with pita. Caleb gets the nachos grande and I’m grateful I don’t have to help him attack an American size portion as perhaps the name just refers to the large blue corn chips under some cheese and salsa. My soup feels watered down and no fresh green apple juice for dinner because they need it on the breakfast buffet. Life could be worse and I’m on vacation so I’ll leave the ridiculous complaints to others on Travelocity.

green sea turtle

Our after-dinner walk will take us to Al Bandar to gander at the restaurant lights and different perspective of the sea and resort. There is a real gingerbread house that I would fit in with employees selling Santas, yule logs, mince pies, cylinders of cookies, and other holiday-themed treats. We walk into a shop and lucky for me the man tries to sell us both scarves — pashmina for me and cashmere for Caleb. It was fun trying them on but I already have a collection.

life-size gingerbread house

There’s a small art display upstairs, a carpet seller that must be napping (as they usually very eagerly approach a could-be customer), and a shop selling swimsuits. We take a detour back to the room by walking by the delivery entrance. Just because we’re diving doesn’t mean I can disappoint my activity tracker which will be easier to please in about seven years when I’m able to upgrade my dive computer to account for all the fin kicks under the sea.

We haven’t owned a TV in at least a decade (not to say that our Bahrain villas don’t come with one in each room, whether they’re hooked up or not) and sold our unused projector (or maybe gave it away because of a spare bulb issue) years ago, but we used to enjoy our raunchy, depraved, mindless moments in front of a set in a hotel room while traveling and I guess we’re growing up as that time is now spent reading if I’m not writing or falling asleep first.

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The Sea is Open in the Sultanate of Oman

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Al Waha hallway
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walking down to Extra Divers Qantab

SUNDAY
Arriving at night comes with the joy of seeing things for the first time with fresh morning light. We wanted enough sleep to be rested for a possible full day of diving but I also wanted to be up to explore a bit and eat a lot before getting to the dive center at 7:40 am like we were asked. Swimsuits on with resort casual clothes on over, we exit the room to see a waterslide, palm trees, and mountains with plenty of lounge chairs and canopies in-between.

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Finless sole (with leopard spots)
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sideways sunlight

Breakfast is an overwhelming buffet of options — coffee, tea bags, karak, bakery station, omelet chef, six juices and four milks, fresh fruit bar, international soups and salads, Omani traditional snacks, a kid’s area, and so many other foods to choose from (as we think about what we will get tomorrow) as we only had time for one plate and a glass of green apple juice — one of my new favorites — and why isn’t this drink more popular?

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clownfish and (pasta) anemonia viridis
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cuttlefish couple

The concierge calls the shuttle to deliver us to the marina but the driver lets us walk down the steep hill until he realizes we have bags and tries to offer help. It’s too late and we don’t care because we’re excited to be going diving. The land is yellow, the water blue, and the dive company has a reusable cup system which I like but a “use our numbered bag” policy which could be an inconvenience as our drybag is built into ours which we leave in the office with our dive logs as we follow the man carrying our gear. I lean over and tell Caleb, “I could get used to this”.

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greyface moray eel
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nature’s artwork

Michael, also called Mich, from Italy will be the divemaster for those needing a guide and an entertaining dive briefer to us on the expectations of the sites after getting Caleb hooked up with another regulator as his has issues again (the first time was a cracked o-ring). Mermaid Cove is a cuttlefish haven (or cephalopod mating area to the more scientifically interested, such as divemaster Tamsyn and I) with clearish water and beautiful reefs full of one of my new favorite fish — Arabian Boxfish aka Bluetail Trunkfish (Ostracion cyanurus).

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marvelous Mexican marigold
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vestibule at Al Husn

Averaging 15 feet of depth in 79*F water (I had a 3mm and would’ve been more comfortable in a 5mm wetsuit) allowed us to get almost two hours of bottom time before lunch to spot some puzzle-piece fish (threespot dascyllus or domino damsel). Some people stay fully suited, others half wetsuit, and others into dry clothes for some hot tea with coconut cookies (or salt crackers) to dip. Caleb doesn’t have this issue as he’s diving in swim trunks and a long-sleeve rash guard and sipping coffee.

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back on the boat for the afternoon dive

Back at the shop one of the hotels had delivered a boxed lunch for us (which can be arranged in advance — and I should’ve asked for veggie, but it worked out), so while others left for the day we sat down to a slider and mini bagel that I took the meat off of, two lunch meat wraps that I gave to Caleb (in exchange for his veggie one), a chicken leg, and an apple and banana wrapped in plastic. With an hour to spare, we walk to Al Hosn (the priciest rooms at the resort) where guests must be 16+.

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black-striped pipefish
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yellowtail poma angelfish and Indo-Pacific sargeant

The morning dives we were joined by Bill, also diving Nitrox, who is missing his wife on vacation with him but who can’t dive again until she gets her heart condition fixed. For the afternoon dive, we would be joined by a Dutch family currently living in Armenia (husband’s job has moved them to about five countries) and the kids are 12 and 13, but the daughter is going on 14 and is “woe is me… getting so old” as I think about how I’ve been with Caleb longer than she’s been alive — the other adults agree.

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green acropora coral
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domino damsel and millet butterflyfish

One of the first things a diver is taught after “Always Breath” is to check their buddies and themselves for BCD inflated and working, weights (on belt or integrated) and how to release them in an emergency, that their air is on and regulator functioning before they put goggles and fins on and enter the water. So you can imagine our surprise since we’re sitting on opposite sides of the boat when I enter the water without my tank open and have to call Caleb over to assist before our descent. The most dangerous part of a dive is still the boat — sunburn, pre-dive preparations, getting to and from boat/site.

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swimming with yellowfin goatfish
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life under the sea

We would double our average depth on this dive and make the mistake of trying to follow directions, “instead of following the reef just swim out to sea” like following the red line from Google Maps on the open road (there is no line) and when we lost visibility we lost the navigation (due to different headings on our compasses) to the place we were searching and ended up going almost 60 feet down (Nitrox works best between 50 – 100 feet). We cut our dive short to swim back over the shallow corals.

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sunset in Bandar Khayran

We enjoy a smooth cruise back to shore while watching the sunset behind the hills. Caleb thought we could change up the water temperature and get in the jacuzzi, but that would require a walk to another hotel, so we just slid into the heated pool for a race to the other side (forgetting about the loop on the other side of the bridge) and I was colder when we got out seconds later. Our shower though comes with options from comfortable to steam as 30 and 38 are written on the knob.

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Al Waha at night

Classy as we are, we share a burrito that we brought with us before going to BAB Lounge on the boardwalk to enjoy the ambient lights, live DJ, and the snack tray: salt-n-pepper chips, carrot and zucchini sticks, and cheddar popcorn that Caleb thought was spicy. We saw Bill and he said he’d try to get some people to join us for a night dive — minimum four people required and good weather — we would get neither. We explored the water park and dhow lit up at night before going back to the room around 9 pm.

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Saturday Occurs in the Sultanate of Oman

Spent the morning slowly packing and Caleb used the items from the fridge that might mold in a week to make breakfast and put the rest of the food in the freezer.

We had to wrap our dive bags, weighing together 19kg, in 0.2 g and 3 BD of plastic to align with Gulf Air’s new bag policy (less trash bags and ropes, more hard and one flat surface). We tried a white chocolate raspberry cheese brûlée that Caleb said had the aftertaste of medicine while we waited for our flight to board after 7 pm. He slept for most of the flight while I enjoyed reading from my first book, On the Origin of Species, on my Kindle.

Kindle party on Gulf Air

Caleb and I have different traveling styles, not so much that we can’t explore together, but that the costs of doing so vary and creates laughing memories for later. Caleb doesn’t handle being accosted at the airport very well as he always just gives in unless I’m there to manage what he’s accidentally signing us up for (in Mexico it was almost a tour because he thought the guy was just showing us a map). Tonight it would be a pricier taxi ride, but hard to argue with their haggling system about how much we were overcharged (or just how well we tipped 5-10 OMR = $13-26) for our 45-50 km trip.

picking up luggage at Muscat International Airport

We got to the hotel we booked at around midnight because we didn’t realize it was a three hotel system resort (from family-friendly — what we would pay in San Francisco or Canada — to bourgeoisie out of our budget for even one night) at the Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah leaving us closest to Extra Divers Qantab without going to the pricier resort next door and trying to get a ride or going the cheaper hotel route and hitchhiking with staff or hoping for a taxi early enough to not miss the boat.

Al Bandar lobby

This option would also give us alternative activities to do sans rental car if the weather was too rough to dive. I took some time to appreciate the blue-lit rocks, the wooden deco benches, the art garden wall, and the empty calmness of the airport in Muscat. The night manager of the hotel came on duty just as we arrived and though Caleb was willing to take our bags they were delivered on a plush red cart with golden handles to our poolside room and my suitcase set on the luggage rack when we usually use the mattress for this purpose.

our room at Al Waha

An earlier flight might’ve been more convenient or have come with traffic and other issues. Our taxi driver did the minimum of 120 km/h to deliver us quickly and Caleb was sure to fall asleep just as fast leaving me one minute to peek through our sheer curtains at the pool lights as I closed the blackout curtains, pass the gummy bears in a bear-shaped glass container, and pee next to a shower with a separate tub with night lights under the bathroom sink and bedside tables.

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The Centre of the Cup

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Our bikes have been in the shadows on the island long enough and we decide to drag them out, me via elevator and Caleb down the stairs, into the Bahrain sunshine. First, we ride to Home Box in the Oasis Mall to look for a new dispenser for our tea jug because out of all the moves and different companies (this time) that is the only thing that got misplaced or broken… that we know of. There’s no way of knowing about the status of our stuff in storage for a few more years if Caleb gets the retirement plan he hopes for. 

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I saw a nice double-stacked drink jug set that we could buy but we had left our trusty shopping backpack at the house so Caleb decided he would look for the part online. I’m glad he was determined to get me to see the Women’s Day inspired exhibit at the Art Centre so we rode our bikes there next. It still looked closed but there was a guy behind the counter, a security guard beside him, and a woman on the phone in an office. To the left, everything was written in Arabic and was about Abdullah Yousif and his career from visual arts to the theatre to TV and radio in the 70s. I’d love to see one of the plays performed today.

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There were also a lot of women portrayed in the beautiful art amongst the collage and newspaper copies of the famous actor. A break in the middle of the centre has me looking through their shelves of books, half in English and half in Arabic, before walking to the right side where the exhibit shows what it means to be a successful Bahraini woman — some women without faces and others in work uniforms and posing with children. We don’t recognize the women being honored — Shaikha Marwa Al Khalifa, Captain Yasmeen Fraidoon, Shaikha Al Shaiba, Alia Al Moayed and the photographers who share their work — Waheeda Malullah, etc.

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The ride home will end with me getting a small scab and a bruise from that time I almost got hit by a bus because it was the only vehicle at the intersection that didn’t go straight (no blinker either). I should concentrate on my virtues while atop my wheels. We will spend the evening playing Skip-Bo — a childhood favorite that I remember Mom teaching me how to play so I can beat Caleb most of the time — and Orbis by Chester Hendrix, made in 2003 with shiny rocks on a circular game mat that kill each other (like racing checkers), not the new 2018 Orbis by Tim Armstrong with 15 rounds of gods creating a universe.

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In sports-related news, you can watch “the game” of whatever you’re into at a bar or happen to see guys playing cricket in a dirt lot. I was unaware of, until tonight, the 49-year history of the Arabian Gulf Cup in which Bahrain just won for the first time leaving Yemen the only one now out of the eight participating countries without a championship. I’m sure if I didn’t live so close to the three hours of honking that followed the win, I still might not know, but congratulations on the holiday awarded to the government, public offices, and schools the next day to celebrate the win.

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Coffee, Cars, and Claus

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I’m sure each time someone drops the soap there is an interesting story behind it — here’s mine. About two months ago I bought Caleb some cold shower cooling soap cubes to get rid of sweat after a hot day in the office. Well, he already has cleansing material at work, for now, so I opened the box and found out how well it doesn’t work in steaming hot water. So there I was, reaching for the soap when it slipped out of my wet hand and between the jacuzzi tub and wall. The story doesn’t end there. Caleb got home to see what else I found when I moved the basin — a mini shampoo bottle, a dirty razor, and a grimy bar of orange.

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Turkish coffee station

This makes me nervous to move all the other large furniture for hidden treasures but worries me that I didn’t think to do this sooner, but that’s what I get for assuming — a summation of crap as I scrub the remnants of someone else’s ass juice away from its residence on the tiles between tub and non-movable floor drain cover, making sure not to pull on any cords or gadgets and whatever else is going on back there. Of course, after I threw my new treasures out I debated if I should’ve saved the other soap too.

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Hours later, after Caleb got a nap, we would be on our way to the Chocolate and Coffee Expo at the Exhibition Center in Sanabis where traffic only delayed our arrival by 15 minutes. You can imagine our excitement that we were able to try ALL the COFFEES and some of the chocolate too. There were other sweets and treats and even pooped on kopi luwak for our viewing and smelling pleasure, but no samples due to the high cost. While waiting for my Turkish coffee, cooked in sand, I had to stand back while a woman zoomed-in with her arm to get a video with her phone closer to the bubbles I would soon be sipping.

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On our way to the Expo, I had seen tent tops and so we decided to walk to the Bahrain Mall to see what was going on — it was Bike Week(end), along with a classic car show, food trucks, and vendors selling leather. After Caleb was done drooling with his eyes and telling me how he would swap his parts for a vintage vehicle I got us an Uber. This guy was the second to cancel on me in hopes of getting the fee, but it only gives me a credit towards my next ride. I asked why he canceled and he tried to blame it on the company. As he almost hit every other car between us and the National Museum I was wishing we had waited for someone else or just walked there.

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We were walking to the Art Centre but the sign said it was closed at 5 pm and with no cars in the lot and no lights in the window we kept our stroll going until we got to Big Texas BBQ & Waffle House where there was another tree lighting and mulled wine. Not only did the boss bring me a fresh steaming cup of goodness, but he was also offering the place chicken, waffles, pizza, mac-n-cheese balls, mince pies, etc. so we had dinner there too. If that wasn’t impressive enough, a group of carolers were brought in with their pom-poms and torches (flashlights) to entertain us and give us cheer of the season with the help of a lit-up gingerbread house and Santa Claus (a lit-up inflatable version and a jolly live one for taking pictures with the kids in the lobby).

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