A Red Rock Holiday

Posted on April 20, 2012 by TheJessicaness

I sleep as much as I can with it feeling like daylight outside. The lights are so bright that it has affected the local bird community. They are all in the tree above us singing their mating songs at the top of their little birdy lungs. At 4:00 a.m. I’ve had enough. I take a shower while Caleb breaks down the tent, then ask him to bring me the one washcloth-sized towel we have with us, then hand it to him on his way in. Now I don’t feel so bad about the free stay. I really wish places would cater to tents more often instead of cars, RVs, boats, and trailers. All tents need is a flat spot where they won’t get run over.

It’s still so dark out that I drive us to the end of the road in Kolob Canyon. We will be able to see more on the way down. We enjoy a hike on the Timber Creek Overlook Trail as we watch the sun come up. There must be something to see on the La Verkin Trail as the parking lot is full as we go by. We stop at the Taylor Creek Trail for a short hike. There is a ranger there marking branches and other debris to be removed. Down some steps and we come to our first water crossing. There will be plenty more crossings, but they all seem to have strategically placed rocks and only the edge of our shoes get wet.

We are down in a canyon and soon I remember we parked the car in shade but it will be fully exposed to the sun now. We didn’t even make it halfway to the Double Arch Alcove. Note to self, and others: leave dogs, children, and unpaid bills with loving family member. Hopefully they will keep the first two and you can pay them back for the bills upon your return. We pass an older woman on her second water crossing on our way out. We are at the most northern part of the park. We drive past the turn for the middle of the park and make our way to the west-side south entrance.

On the east-side of Virgin before entering Zion we pull over to examine a shoe tree, not the ones you put in your shoes to protect them, but a tree with two branches and the trunk covered in shoes. There are many myths behind the start of these trees located throughout the world. The trees can mark gang territory, the end of a great hike, a graduation. Some are cut down by vandals, others are cut down for safety due to the added weight of shoes. We arrive in time to see shoes still swinging in the tree as a man gets back in his truck with only socks on his feet.

The last time we were in Zion we went west through the park. The weather was nice, the traffic was long, and we saw a mountain goat. This time we are headed east. The traffic will grow throughout the day. The park offers trolleys onto the park and has a trolley only route to minimize damage caused by parking cars off-road and to reduce congestion, accidents, and pollution. When the Zion Mount Carmel Tunnel was completed in 1930 it was the longest of its kind at 1.1 miles. It’s still hard for larger vehicles to navigate but for a $15 fee park rangers will make the tunnel a one-way road.

We find ample parking until 10 am. and then all spots will be taken by hikers, climbers, and onlookers. In the visitor center parking lot we see a lady hunkered over with a large camera pointed at the ground. I didn’t want to miss anything so I walked over there. On the way I hear a crunch, crunch. The lady is taking a picture of the hundreds of silkworms on the pavement. Caleb tells me not to look down and try to ignore the crunching going on under the soles of my shoes as we continue walking. There are so many that it would be like trying to walk on the beach and not touch the sand.

Through the park there are rocks angled every which way with plants growing in cracks and on ledges. Some rocks look like melting ice cream with slivered almonds or like stacked plates with some about to fall. There is the famous Checkerboard Mesa that was forming when dinosaurs roamed the earth. There are rock faces painted in horizontal red streaks and black vertical streaks. There are other red and brown hues with white streaks and spots of green plants.

As we hike we notice trees with twisted bark. Scientists have found that spiraled grain works best to deliver water to more branches and keep the tree alive longer even if it loses roots on one side. Twisted bark also makes it easier for trees to bend after a snowstorm and dump the extra weight. Most animals are scarce in the heat of the day except for those enjoying eternal rest, lizards darting dangerously about, and a bird in search of these daring reptiles. The thermometer reads 58 but it feels like 85. The dogs get lunch in the shade while we clean some of the sand out of our shoes.

I feel as if we missed a turn and somehow skipped part of the park. We will be back again one day to enjoy the view from the trolley. Driving north on Hwy 89 we pass Mugwumps Antiques in Hatch. I stop to take pictures and Caleb gets out for the Mexican food restaurant across the street where the waiter overhears us discussing no meat options and recommends two vegetarian sandwiches. The Ambush – garden veggie burger with jalapenos and chipotle sauce, and The Sodbuster – cheap bread with lots of veggies.

Up ahead is Red Canyon in the Dixie National Forest. At the visitor center I see a monkey with his orange monkey drawers on licking a peppermint candy. Back outside are hundreds of feet of rock layers that look like sand castles with ”gargoyles” balancing on the ledge. The gargoyles are the tops of these exposed rocks that have been most weathered down by wind and rain; they are white atop red bottoms making me think of red velvet cake with cream cheese frosting.

Bryce Canyon is beyond my vocabulary power to describe. I wanted to start with something about a bowl of teeth, but that’s just the surface. The view continues to change as you approach the canyon, look across and down in it, and as you descend into it. The teeth grow taller into beautifully carved walls that surround you. There is something awe inspiring about walking through these rocks – literally; being able to walk down where people on the rim think we look like ants, and then hiking back up and watching the scenery change again – an amazing landscape.

We hike the northern side of the Navajo Loop trail and connect to Queens Garden trail. There are lots of people on the rim but we pass few while on the trail. One group is three older men in their 60s with their trekking poles and one with a camera. They too debate taking the Peekaboo Loop, but reconsider a strenuous hike after night fall. The Queens trail ends at Sunrise Point and we will take the Rim trail back to Sunset Point where we started. In the parking lot we recognize a car we saw in Zion.

It’s a regular red four-door car but the trunk has a vent fan made for trailers installed in it. As we stand there, the owner approaches. He is happy to talk about the home he has made for himself. It fits his snacks, bed, guitar, and a 35-350 camera lens on a tripod. He is visiting the Grand Circle of Utah and then heading on to Colorado. It is nice not having to rush to our next destination; we find more time to talk to fellow travelers and the locals.

We stop at the General Store to look for memory cards but all they have are 2GB. We drive to the North campground, Loop B, and find one of three spots left and then Caleb remembers that we need wood. We lock the bikes to the table and drive back to the store. We get a bundle of wood for $5 and he grabs a local brew. On the way back to camp we pass two thieves breaking branches off trees and shoving them into the trunk of their car. Of course we reported them to the camp host and they will not be allowed back.

I attempt a fire while Caleb sets up the tent. I tied the dogs to the table, but Sparky is too loud and they get put back in the car, for now. All around us other languages are being spoken, meals eaten, stories told, and games played. Meanwhile, I am squatting by a temple of kindling with a broken mini-torch. I know we have a magnesium lighter and some waterproof matches, somewhere, perhaps in the depths of one of our bags. Our neighbors hear our desperate attempt to burn some wood and deliver a 25pk of matches. I try to return them and they show me the 250 more that they have.

All is good in these campgrounds. Families are warm and full around their fires, or TVs in their RVs. Kids begin to calm, dogs begin to quiet, and night sounds begin to sing. We get a small fire to burn for two hours. There will be no smores tonight, just enjoying the heat of the fire and the glow of the coals. We feed the dogs and then put them in the tent. We watch fires go out and the last car drive by looking for a place to sleep. Soon we will have to put our fire out, but I enjoy watching the wind bring life back into smoldering embers.

Posted in Animals, Art, Camping, Education, Food, Friends, Hiking, History, People, Photography, Places, Plants, Things, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Mountains and Caves

Posted on April 19, 2012 by TheJessicaness

wind turbines, Hwy 50

Last night, as the fire started to dwindle, the creatures of the dark began to stir. We would hear them creeping around the tent until we fell asleep. We wake early enough to watch the sun come over the mountains. We pack up the car and go for a walk around the water and watching how cute the dogs are waddling in their coats that Caleb made them. Continuing east on Hwy 50 we will see an old railroad tunnel, a cowboy mural, and a windmill (wind turbine) farm – not the old wooden rickety ones romanticized in the movies, but the large steel or aluminum ones with three blades 147 feet in length.

We turn right on State Rd 487 at 9:00 a.m. and arrive to the park entrance 40 minutes later. The next tour doesn’t leave for an hour so this gives us time to meet aliens, find leprechaun doors, and unicorn forests. Along the way we will also see trees and rocks that smile, a bear less cave, and a marmot cross the road. We get back to the visitor center in time to meet the other couple going on the tour with us. They are from Alberta, Canada on their ninth day of travel. They too are headed to Zion and Arches National Parks.

Great Basin Nat Park

We are joined by our tour guide and a law enforcement park ranger; the difference being that one carries a gun, taser, and handcuffs. When there aren’t that many tourists it gives the bored law ranger something to do. We are told about the cave myths and its history. Early tour guides allowed the ‘If you can break it, you can take it’ method of souvenirs. Very long ago, before more advances in science, people believed that stalactites had growth rings like trees and would simply grow back in a few years.

They couldn’t have been further from the truth. We got to see a developing stalactite. In 100 years it was maybe an inch long and not more than a quarter-inch in width. There is an extensive amount of soda straw stalactites and an even more impressive amount of cave shields – over 300. This cave is still growing and has developed many assorted layers. We are able to see eras of evolution as we walk through time in mere minutes. On the ceiling are names and dates of people who were exploring this cave by candle light in 1892, just four years before the first electric lamp was invented.

Lehman Caves

After an hour of spelunking we are back in the sunlight. We check on the dogs before going on to explore trees, ditches, feces, berries, flowers, and butterflies. We plan on camping at Zion Nat Park and turn around after Mather Overlook to give us enough time to drive over a high clearance road to the trailhead of the Lexington Arch and get to Zion before dark. We have to drive into Utah and then back into Nevada – a 30 mile trip. Eleven of those miles will be on uneven dirt road with a puddle or two to cross – depth may vary.

Dogs are allowed; we are thrilled. Caleb grabs water for us and them, and I grab the cameras. We start off in a wooded area, walk through prairie, then follow the switchbacks on our way up the hillside. The trail is 1.5 miles and more than halfway up we are met with over a foot of snow. We could see the trail on the other side and the dogs, no jackets on, weren’t slowing down either. We make it to the viewpoint, take some pictures, and Piggy is ready to get back to the car to warm her pink feet and fill her belly with food.

Back on the dirt road at 4:30 p.m. and we are warned about cows on skateboards crossing the road; we get sheep instead. There are so many of them and a guy on a four-wheeler trying to keep them off the road. We make it to Parowan Gap before sunset and it’s another hour before we make it to the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center to find out they have backcountry camping with a minimum three-mile hike. We have no idea what to expect, besides tarantulas, and no map to bring with us so we will have to find somewhere else to call a bed for the night.

We drive about 10 exits away to an RV park. There is one spot designated for tent camping. It is a spotlighted, bumpy patch of grass. We go to the office to register and the only thing there is a locked door with a free map. We would have put money in a drop box or envelope but there were none. We worry about karma and then notice a code for the shower on the map, perhaps tonight is on the house. We arrive after everyone else is cozy in their large metal boxes and we will leave them the same way.

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A Drive to Illipah Creek Reservoir

Posted on April 18, 2012 by TheJessicaness

Firefighters Memorial

This would be our biggest detour yet. We had been looking forward to visiting any part of Yosemite that doesn’t require a reservation – perhaps the visitor center, but the entrance road on the east side is still closed for the season. We thought about visiting other more northerly parks, but more roads and more campgrounds are still closed for a season we have yet to experience – snow fall over 44 feet during winter leaving the area with 12 or more feet of snow between trees and on roadsides along dangerous cliffs.

We pass through Walker, CA but stop on the outskirts of town to admire their memorial dedicated to the C-130 Crew Firefighters. We drive to Carson City and head east on Hwy 50. I expected a lot of straight, flat roads. What we saw was beautiful, twisted terrain. The plan was to stop and look at everything and make it across the state to Utah – the desert where surely no snow closures could slow us down. We pass lakes, reservoirs, and watery pits where birds and cows gather. We stop at a state park that is just camping sites; we leave. Gas prices are $3.89, a big difference from the overly expensive gas in California – the state where everything costs more no matter where you live.

Somehow we managed to purchase bad cinnamon rolls – made with cheap nasty bread. We also got parmesan cheese bagels that were yummy and some exotic chocolate flavors. I’m driving across Nevada while trying Savory Ramen by Komforte Chockolates. It tasted like I was eating a seasoning packet in some bites, but when the taste wasn’t overwhelming the noodles were satisfyingly crunchy. I know that chocolate is best eaten with everything, but the other ingredients need to be added in moderation.

General Store on Treasure St

I’m enjoying driving the back roads that are less travelled for their scenery, kind people, and the ability to enjoy the open road, but these roads are also where the most animal cruelty takes place – away from the eyes of the children that will mindlessly be munching on some calf’s mother later with their french fries. There are cows left in dirt fields to walk in shit and then get stuffed onto trailers to shit on each other. I wish humans could experience the emotions of things they have no part in killing. Perhaps they would think twice before chowing down on illness and fear bred in captivity.

And this is when I get my new restaurant idea Ramen and Shit, from the good chocolate and the poorly treated cows. Everything edible would be made with Ramen noodles (pancakes, hash browns, sandwiches, soups, casseroles, salads) and to drink would be SHIT (Sambuca, Hot sex, Irish mist, Tequila) or Sunkist, Hawaiian punch, Izze, Tamarind. I’m thinking about what weird shit we could put on the walls and who I would want to hire when Caleb reminds me that we are on vacation, we can deal with business later.

We take an easy stroll around the Stillwater Animal Preserve. The roads are dusty, the winds are blowing, the birds are flying, the water is still. The mountains are in the distance, the fields vary in color, and the clouds are changing shape. We learn that where we are standing used to be 300-700 feet below the surface of Lake Lahontan. The world is a vast place where mountains used to be ocean beds or active volcanoes and fields were covered in trees and forming caves that will grow and sometimes collapse.

Stillwater Animal Preserve

I continue to imagine what has been and what will be when I see a sign for a Hidden Cave. I turn left and drive down this dirt road to a fork then realize I passed the entrance to the trail that leads to the cave. There is what seems to be a picnic area that leads to miles of archaeological paradise near the main road and then a pull out further down for parking to hike to Hidden Cave. We converse with an older couple that is waiting out the heat of the day with a good book. They are unsure of the name Piggy for a dog and wish us luck on our adventure as they watch us walk away.

We walk up to the trail map displayed on a small informational sign and the route seems easy enough though many others have explored beyond the markers making it harder for us to stay on the trail. We missed a marker as the trail is numbered but were able to find our way back. We get to see petroglyphs that are over 5,000 years old, a Mojave black-collared lizard and many others, an assortment of rock types and their formations, and an astounding view of the horizon.

Grimes Point, Hwy 50

We arrive at Hidden Cave to find it covered and locked with a metal door. Tours are offered every other Saturday and today is Wednesday. We continue to Burnt Cave where I’m expecting melted rocks. There is soot in the back where it seems they cooked lunch. Afterwards they took time for arts and crafts using fingers and plants to draw on the rocks. Today, there is surprisingly no graffiti, that I could see, in one of the largest and most accessible petroglyph sites in the United States. I am grateful.

The way back to the parking lot is more easily marked. The couple we left is now joined by two cyclists that plan on getting in some afternoon mountain exercise. The couple mentions our obvious detour off the path. We assure them that’s not our usual method and move on to the Rock Art picnic area. Some of the art stands out, which is spectacular for its age, while some must be seen with a keen eye. These distractions can make it hard to stay on the beaten path. We notice other not-so-beaten trails but don’t get lost this time.

Back on Hwy 50, The Loneliest Road in America, we will see remnants of the Pony Express. There are other artifacts of history along this route and some towns that still have people in them. Eureka makes for an interesting stop, but tonight’s destination is the Illipah Creek Reservoir Campground. The campsite is about two miles off Hwy 50 in a windy cove near the water with hiking and fishing available. Tomorrow we will be going to Nevada’s only national park – Great Basin.

Illipah Creek Reservoir Campsite

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A Ride in the Red Zone

Posted on April 17, 2012 by TheJessicaness

Scotty’s Castle, Death Valley

Nights in the desert, at least Death Valley, can have temperatures of 100 degrees or more; we slept comfortably in what seemed to be 60 degrees. We get to Scotty’s Castle at 8a and they don’t open until 9a. There is a friendly older couple that offered to share a map of the castle’s surroundings with us. We were delighted, but then remembered over paying for our site last night and knocked on the door to talk to the ranger. She told us we could drive all the way back down to Furnace Creek. We told her to consider it a donation.

We walk up the short road to the car stable and then down around the house and up the hill. It would be a great place to live, but not somewhere I would want to clean – for free. Tours of the inside don’t start for another hour and we have dogs in the car so we leave. It seems two minutes later we are crossing the border into Nevada and the gas light comes on. There is a sign ahead letting us know there isn’t a gas station in front of us for another 68 miles, but back down Death Valley it would only be 44 miles. I would rather chance running out of gas in the direction we wanted to go instead of backtracking.

1928 Ford AA dump truck

We make it through two mountain passes playing leapfrog with semi-trucks; I didn’t want to slow down if I didn’t have to so that momentum would carry us further. We make it to Big Pine and get 16.5 gallons of gas. Apparently our red zone carries 3 gallons, but that’s not something I want to try to risk again. Lesson learned – when somewhere offers you more expensive gas it’s worth it to fill your tank, not just get a few gallons. They know you’re going to need it.

We celebrate our successful arrival with our first order of gas station nachos with jalapenos, olives, sauerkraut, and banana peppers. We get some Dramamine for Piggy and head back to White Mountain Rd to see some Bristlecone pine trees – the oldest on Earth. The Cerenia the vet prescribed hadn’t helped her car sickness and 25mg of Dramamine didn’t help either. She’s getting better at being in the car on smooth flat roads, but bumpy and windy ones, our favorite, are still tough. Part of White Mountain Rd is still closed for the season so we weren’t able to find Methuselah this time, but are still able to hike around.

Sierra Nevada Mtns

We head back into Big Pine to wash the car and Sparky has fun grumbling at the water as it hits the windows while listening to the Making Christmas song from Nightmare Before Christmas – the original Disney version. Driving through Bishop I notice a Bakkery, Erick Schat’s Bakkery, to be exact. I love carbs and love to eat; we pull over. We walk in and I take a picture to share with my readers. In the picture is a sign that says I can’t. An employee tells us it’s because someone tried to steal their cookie in the shape of a fish idea.

There are deli counters full of delectables, shelves stacked with cakes, and carts with breads, cookies, and jam. And this is just one side of the store. On the other side is where they bake the bread, slice it fresh for you, and have the day old discount bread for us. We get bread with mushrooms and focaccia and then get in line to buy a veggie sandwich – avocado, tomato, gouda, etc. on wheat bread with a pickle spear.

We debate skiing in Mammoth as we pass the ski lifts, but then we see the advertised hotel room prices – $98-$900 a night before taxes and quickly change our minds. A sign must’ve caught my eye and we detour to Panum Crater near Mono Lake. We unknowingly park near the dirt road instead of driving down it to the parking lot. This gives the dogs time to do their business and since we are the only ones there we let the dogs off their leashes. Piggy was fine with staying on the path, but we had to put Sparky back on his leash after he scaled the steep rocky edge.

In the middle of Mono Lake is Black Point, a volcano that erupted underwater and surfaces more as the water level drops. I would think this would be something to enjoy, it being unusual and all, but the locals tear it up and sprinkle it on the roads in winter to provide traction on the slippery surface. After Mono Lake we drive through Lee Vining before we realize we missed the turn for the Tioga Pass Mobil gas station restaurant, closed for the season, apparently a must eat place.

As we head north it seems all campsites are closed. It’s a good thing we had planned on showers tonight – campfire smoke only goes so far as a perfume, and are willing to pay for a hotel in Bridgeport. I didn’t realize we were willing to pay $85 though. Luckily we have a military discount and other places were charging $126. Next time we will drive to Twin Lakes Campgrounds 10 miles away in mid-May when they open and sleep there for $20 and then use their coin-operated showers.

Walker River Lodge, Bridgeport

We walk across the street to the Bridgeport Inn and after looking at their menu decide to take a look around. They have historic looking rooms, a fancy lobby, and a friendly bartender that was hoping to win the lottery – aren’t we all? We head across the street to Rhino’s bar with more budget/vegetable friendly options. We order jalapeño poppers, fried jalapenos and onions, and a veggie pizza. Caleb gets an Alaskan Amber beer on the house and we head back to the room to clean ourselves and our exploded applesauce.

I always appreciate showers more after going a few days without; washing all the sweat, dirt and odd smells away. We had made applesauce at home for the trip and with the elevation changes and no room in the Tupperware we were left with applesauce all over everything inside the cooler. After four showers, 2 people and 2 dogs, some dishwashing in the sink, and journaling we settle on the bed for an episode, or two, of Chopped. It’s a show where four chefs must use four different ingredients from a surprise basket to make three meals – appetizer, dinner, then dessert – each time with new basket items until one chef is left winning $10,000. A somewhat rude show, but that’s what I get for not reading instead.

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Death Valley Detour

Posted on April 16, 2012 by TheJessicaness

Photo by Caleb

For wanting to take a road trip on Hwy 395 north, we seem to find every instance not to. We arrive at the junction of 395 and 190 – east to Death Valley at least 35 miles before we hit the park boundaries. I considered driving all the way there to take a picture of vast miles of dirt scattered with dead things and then turning around. Not at all what I expected to find. The rocks are red, the plants green, and the animals alive. The highest cause of death here is single-vehicle accidents and now I know why – they were too busy staring at the unexpected beauty and wonder that is Death Valley.

A beautiful morning and a nice 43 degrees at 6:30a, by 3:00p it would be 94 degrees. Dogs are not even allowed out of your vehicle; either they will die of heat stroke or dehydration. We gave them water and put clothing in the windows. Depending on the temperature we would give ourselves a certain amount of time to explore: 15-30 minutes, sometimes we took turns. We arrive at the Stovepipe Wells Visitor Center when some guys ask us where the lowest point below sea level is. I didn’t even know that was here, but we’re going now.

We see a sign for gas at $5.48 a gallon – that’s crazy! Then we see cyclists huffing and puffing their way through the hills; I would prefer to burn water and donuts any day. We drive on and learn about the borax industry. There was a team of at least 20 mules to pull 36 tons of weight, including 1,200 gallons of water, over 165 miles of desert. The wagon wheels were 7 feet high and the length of the team over 100 feet – this was a large operation in such a harsh environment.

We arrive at Badwater Basin salt flats – the lowest point below sea level in the western hemisphere at -282 feet. The lowest point on Earth is the Dead Sea at more than -1,300 ft. We stop for sightseeing at Ashford Mill Ruins and Caleb wants to picnic. He gets the dish of carrots and bell peppers, pre-sliced, out of the car and proceeds to somehow only dump most of the carrots in the dirt. He puts the dirty carrots in their own dish and gets out the peanut butter for us to dip our veggies.

After lunch we arrive in Shoshone and get 4 gallons of gas for over $20. Then we head across the street by the Crowbar Cafe. On the right is the sheriff’s station and on the left an old building with a trail leading to another building with an open sign. We walk in to a little boy playing on a computer in the corner, see some brochures, and then a door. I open it too quickly before I think about knocking, but the lady on the other side is happy for the company. She prints us out a map and highlights some of her favorite things to do and see.

We visit the museum next door – lots of information, then to the café beside it for french fries. Luckily the waitress gave us ketchup, that we never eat, or we wouldn’t have been able to finish the fries. Next on the lady’s map is a local trail where she likes to go and relax and see things. We got lost, saw some broken trees, and a muddy creek. Perhaps it would’ve been better if she hadn’t upped our expectations. We decide to save the rest of her map for another visit.

We head back into the park and three hours later find a table and fire pit unclaimed at Mesquite Spring Campground. We are one of three tent-campers there. We ride our bikes to the pay station where Caleb sticks money in hoping to get change out – nothing we can do about it until morning. I build the fire while Caleb makes us hot chocolate in our Jetboil Sumo cooking system.  There is something about warm food or drink that internally satisfies our mind and bodies. Perhaps that’s why caveman invented fire.

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