Perry, GA to Manchester, TN

Earthlodge

Last night was ridiculous. I lay there thinking about how I forgot to mention busting my hand on the doorknob while carrying boxes, leaving a bruise between my knuckles. Then I wondered how I could leave out all the pink and yellow wildflowers on the roadside and the few pops of red standing against so much green. I reenacted a bit of this self-talk to Caleb later today.

I had set the a/c to bedroom balmy, but in my struggle to fall asleep, always a process while somewhere new, I turned the air to southeast frosty. This helped us both snuggle in for the night until I was up at 3a to return the temperature to a degree I could wake up to. No matter, we’re both up an hour before the alarm. We are greeted by a parking lot kitty as we begin to load the car.

view from Great Temple Mound

We are surrounded by gas stations and walk to one and can smell the canned fuel sitting inside. We drive to another, and the pump takes advantage of Caleb by giving him more gas than the car can hold. We smell it on his shoes after he’s cleaned the car and ground before our departure – what a way to start the day. Luckily, we catch glimpses of the sunrise through the tall and dense treeline as we continue north.

Our first stop is Ocmulgee Mounds National Historic Park. We’re parked at the gate 15 minutes before it opens and thanked by a ranger for stopping by in our travels on her way to work. We’ve got an hour before the visitor center opens, so we set off to interrupt an Eastern box turtle enjoying his breakfast as he paused and returned our stares.

Caleb at Ocmulgee Mounds

We will see a few whitetail deer, another larger turtle, a couple of Great White egrets, and some chipmunks while we walk between the Mounds. We’re able to go in the Earthlodge, and I’m grateful to see history through the glass as I listen to more modern advancements chug along through the park. I saw the cliff signs and still acted surprised when I saw the train tracks.

We take in the views from Great Temple Mound and walk along Walnut Creek hoping to see a gator or a beaver as the water goes from running and fragrant to stagnant and smelly. Soon, we will be choosing which water sources to filter from on the PCT, and I definitely want them to be the ones with fewer mosquito eggs in them. Inside the visitor center, we are welcomed in by an accent.

spotted leaf

I guess Austrian, as the volunteer, sounded like a higher-pitched version of Arnold Schwarzenegger. I know, I need to travel more in Europe or make more friends from these countries. Turns out he’s from the Netherlands. The museum explored, stamps put in our parks’ passport book, and obligatory stickers purchased we were ready to leave Macon after learning more about the millions of artifacts found at the site.

There are over one hundred thousand stored in a climate-controlled basement and another 2.5 million at FSU in Tallahassee. The cataloging is so time-consuming that only half the collection has been done since teams started in the 1930s. The little bags, containing ceramics and stones, are stored in boxes that are inventoried annually, which seems like an undertaking in itself.

Chattahoochee River

Hours later, we reach the Chattahoochee River NRA West Palisades Unit. The road is narrow, but we feel like we have this park to ourselves as well, and there’s a big shaded spot to keep the car and trailer out of the way. We walk towards the Devil’s Racecourse where water and rocks meet for activities. The way down the path is cool – super green, with some dead wood, active squirrels, and one hungry deer.

The river is wide and a bit wild in parts. The stone wall on the opposite bank is not what I’d want to rush into. We happen upon two women sunbathing on a sliver of beach-like riverfront. I put my finger in the water after reading the “Don’t die here” sign and admire the ducks and geese willing to work sideways in the cold current. The return hike, up the trail, was not as cooling.

Blue Blazes Hiking Trail

We started to sweat. Atlanta (there are 19 places with this name in the US) in Georgia has the highest elevation, 1050 feet, of any major city east of the Mississippi River. This hike is not found in Florida, and our legs and lungs appreciate the opportunity to do a bit of work. I understand the importance of our ancestors not staying in one place too long as it makes your body complacent (unless over 14,000 ft. or near the Earth’s poles).

Traffic out of Cumberland added an hour to our drive, and then a light rain came before we reached the Tennessee border (our first of two crossings for the day). Getting to Blue Blazes Hiking Trail of Moccasin Bend National Archeological District involved a hairpin turn uphill and a turnaround on a small gravelly pot-holed lot with two cars.

multiflora rose

I’m glad I planned many hiking stops, and we had been warned to watch out for the weather, which, of course, I would just slow down, but not ready in my city-slicker shoes for the muddy path. We turned around once after taking a wrong offshoot and then again once I stared at my feet more than the surroundings. The return was worth it as the sun shone better at this angle. On the other side of the lot is probably the rest of the loop trail, and we made it to a small bridge before turning back.

We can hear the gun training range nearby, and Caleb points out the mental health institute at the end of the road. These woods would make an interesting filming location. Back on the highway, I continued to see “sleeping” armadillos bloated or exploded on the shoulder. I thought there might be more animal variety, but I suppose it’s the same for high-population deer areas.

low-key budget hotel art

The map says that we will arrive at our destination in the past, meaning we will cross into the Central Time Zone. I’ve only guesstimated our stops for the night, and Caleb will get us 25 miles further than that before finding a room with a bench by the window, a perfect place to read. It starts to rain again, but just as I’ve checked in, the rain is checking out for now.

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T Minus 24 Days

Macaroni

We packed up my newly gifted keyboard, had sushi, burgers, and pizza with friends, and said, “Bye for now” to our furry companions. We’ve been planning this (hiking the PCT) for months and years, but reality is setting in as we finish our preparations in Florida. We’re up early today. We take our last trip to the storage unit and pick up the trailer that will tote our resupply boxes of food and shoes across the country.

The kid (in his early twenties) was still hungover (his words) as he checked that the lights on the trailer worked before sending us on our way. Since Caleb is still recovering from double carpal tunnel release surgery, of which both wrists got infected but are on the mend with antibiotics and having the stitches removed, a bit aggressively, I will be driving forward and letting him handle any reversing.

Zeus

We’re able to borrow a hand cart from one of the maintenance guys to get the freeze dryer downstairs once we air up the tires. Thanks, Nick. I carry all the food down, getting some elevation practice (just kidding), and Caleb will use his handmade box net to hold them in place, especially since none of the boxes are closed yet in case of needed adjustments while on the trail.

I drop the keys off at 1030, and we’re on the road minutes later. The usual breaks are still taken, but our mileage-to-empty-guesser (not the official term) is slow at first to adjust to the added weight, which is affecting our miles per gallon. I think we averaged 18 mpg once I could set cruise control on the highway, even with the random bits of congestion for no reason.

unpretentious hotel curtains

Our goal for today was to get to Georgia since we didn’t know when we would leave. We succeeded and added 40 miles to our estimated stopping point, so we are closer to our first activity tomorrow. Driving with this trailer is way less stressful than the uncomfortable truck and trailer that Caleb had to deal with. I look forward to the rest of our trip (as I always do!)

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The Things That Happen

I had a title for this last night but have forgotten it over the course of the day. We are seven days from leaving Florida and 31 away from starting the PCT. April has been just as interesting as the other months as the countdown continues. The last time I kept track of days like this was when Caleb was coming home from a nine-month deployment.

We’ve been attempting to eat our fridge and cabinets bare as our friends can only take so many almonds (that Caleb got while he was making us milk and almond flour). We celebrated a birthday or two and joined in on the christening and maiden voyage of the Kraken Snack. We set up our storage unit and had two friends, with their truck, help us move more than the heavy stuff, which saved us a few trips.

The internet company wanted me on a new cell plan so I could stay connected on the trail. I told them absolutely not. The energy company was easy, and only now, literally, today, am I dealing with my 60-day notice to vacate my apartment (where subletting is not allowed). They also wanted to charge me $50 for a lapse in insurance coverage but never asked about a copy of the renewal that I didn’t think about.

Caleb’s double wrist surgery went well, better than expected, as he was able to move his fingers that day. I helped him take the tight bandages off a few hours earlier than recommended as he was doing a great job of keeping his hands elevated, but the wrapping was pushing on the swelling. I thought there would be one stitch, but there are five in each hand, and one side looks more put together than the other. We got a letter in the mail the same day we got his Ibuprofen telling us to throw the pills away due to possible bacterial contamination.

Our schedule was going as planned, and luckily, our trip to a friend’s pool and my later visit to urgent care didn’t disrupt our move. I got bit by a small thing with wings (deer fly, death moth, murder hornet), and it caused me to cuss, so I figured there would be a quarter-size welt later. I did not expect to lose sight of my red and warm ankle and the definition of my small toes on my right foot. I got bit by something else on my left foot without  as much edema. The bite site seemed to change color, so antihistamines and antibiotics were to the rescue.

I know there was more to write, but our families have had their timing right recently when calling to check in or update us about something. We had to switch two boxes around because while I was on the phone, I wrote the wrong address on a resupply box. Caleb is on the phone with his sister now dealing with their dad, who burned his new stove and its surroundings. I get started on one project and am easily distracted by another, but things are getting done.

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Are We Ready Yet?

It’s 30 days until we leave Florida, and another 24 days after that, we start the PCT. That’s the plan that has been in motion since we got our start date over five months ago. We have since packed over 600 meals and half that many protein drinks. I didn’t keep as much track of the snacks; I was just hoping to pack about 600 calories per person per day in some boxes that were too full to close, so we got bigger boxes.

We are leaving our canal-side apartment with the daily turtle, gator, deer, raccoon, rabbit, lizard, and bird sightings, as we are not allowed to sublet, and no one has offered to add their name to the lease in the meantime. This was our last time being able to use the military clause to break a lease, and moving forward, we won’t get the active military discounts, though I’m hoping veterans get deals too.

We have downsized our wardrobes and packed away half our kitchen. We’ve made our last trip to Costco depending on changes to our road trip itinerary of either a few days on the road or a few weeks. Either way, we need some elevation in our legs and lungs that we are not getting at 35 feet above sea level.. or some low Florida equivalent.

I looked into bringing a camera, and a friend gifted me a lens for my phone. I could bring a GoPro, but those batteries don’t seem to last (I only use them when I dive). I know I will take notes, whether on my phone in airplane mode, a Moleskine notebook with my name engraved on the front, or a long CVS receipt that I find in the trash of a town as we resupply.

I plan on updating my Instagram weekly, but maybe not at all. I will not be posting YouTube videos on the trail as I will not want to constantly detour for WiFi and an outlet. I’ve been told I should bring multiple battery banks and a solar charger, but I am looking forward to being off-grid (as much as this trail will allow), and I don’t need others to know how much fun I’m having for it to count.

People are still asking how we will undertake such an endeavor, and I have to remind them that there are plenty who have gone before us – those who have never hiked or camped, those that are recovering from an injury or a loss, and those that were twice our age when they started and finished. It takes some people years to complete this trail – nature and life happen, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth trying.

Cost is always a popular topic, but this trip – our longest – could very easily be our cheapest. We will not be paying for a place to sleep every night, we will not be driving (maintaining a vehicle) or paying for utilities (gas, electric, water, trash, sewer, etc.), and we saved thousands by freeze-drying our meals. The dehydrated ones might seem pricy at the store, but they come with a convenience tax on the trail.

I’ve had strangers tell me how much they envy my situation and friends who can’t afford the time this adventure will take, but I, too, started out with day trips and then week-long travels. The most time off Caleb has had in 21 years is a month (usually while we are moving across the country or between them). I invite those who want to come to do so or begin to follow their other dreams – life is so short.

As much as we have planned, we are already seeing changes to our schedule. Caleb will have double open carpal tunnel surgery (OCTR) two weeks before we leave, so his grip strength will return before we get on the road. Our flights have shifted, but that’s to be expected. We have our shuttles planned and our reservation at Camp Lockett. All we can do is come prepared and without expectations.

Thank you to those people who have inquired about our trip, as it helps me to think about the Pacific Crest Trail (all 2650 miles of it from Mexico to Canada via California, Oregon, and Washington) from many viewpoints and solidify decisions as to what luxuries I want to bring. We plan on averaging 20-mile days, as uphill in the heat will be slower than downhill with a breeze.

There will be “town” luxuries that we will miss, but I didn’t bring “American” necessities with me when moving overseas, as I think it lessens the experience, so I won’t focus on the warm, clean bed I have now as a sleeping bag with a bit of grit from the day, a band-aid or two to patch holes, and possibly some ants that wander in (more welcome than mosquitoes) will be the highlight of my night – after the starry sky of course.

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Sponge Docks with Aunt Lois

Aunt Lois is on her way to the Sponge Docks at 830, so I am too. I park by Rusty Bellies, and she’s in the fenced-in parking lot for Hellas Restaurant. We start the morning with her buying a new dress from a gift shop, and then we wander into Fatty’s and talk about the owner’s dog, who the place is named after. Terry and Karley have yet to spend any time near Tarpon Springs, so they meet us for coffee and sweets at Hellas.

I try my first Freddo cappuccino (a strong iced espresso with sugar and frothed milk) and share a chocolate baklava cheesecake with my aunt. After brunch, it is time for more shopping, so the four of us walk through the Olive Oil Co, Jerky Emporium, The Spice and Tea Exchange, and part ways after Susan’s Flags & More. We’ll look at shoes while they walk back to their car so they can have a proper lunch at home while we make a reservation at Hellas.

While we wait the 30-45 minutes, we stroll over to Wine At The Docks and add our home pins to their visitors’ map. I get the text, and soon we are seated with a waiter who likes to tell jokes. The restaurant serves two-for-one deals of tea and water, at least during rush hour, which I think other eateries should take note of. After packing down our gullets, a plate of Greek salad and a gyro each, we need to trudge off some calories.

We take her car to Craig Park and watch the manatees frolic before walking down Tarpon Ave. We peruse a shop or two before we decide to find a new parking spot back at the Sponge Docks. Aunt Lois surprises me with a pair of turquoise turtle earrings, to remember her by, which I definitely will. Having moseyed for a few hours, it’s time for dessert for dinner, and Sweeties is on the menu. I chose scoops of coffee cookies & cream and blueberry cheesecake.

Our stomachs agree that we should have chosen one flavor, so it’s back to the sidewalk for more exploration and digestion. I take her to see the sponge in the shape of an alligator’s head, and she gets a turtle tracking bracelet, in keeping with our theme. I escort her back to her car to get my sauce sampler and she drops me at mine. We say our goodbyes as she’ll go back to Kansas tomorrow. I go to Capt’n Jack’s, where Fallon and Marie (her friend visiting from Temecula) are finishing their dinner.

We finish the night with three hours at Johnny’s Taphouse, where I try a peach drink while we talk about our men (theirs are both back in California) and taking a couples’ cruise in the future. I listen to a girl in the bathroom with a wet foot in her croc talk about athlete’s foot and gangrene. I can only think of the movie Idiocracy, which was delayed two years before release, surprisingly around the same time the shoes became popular.

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