Caleb is up at 330, packs up his bed, and eats with the group. I grab the ibuprofen before they leave for Cloudburst Summit to avoid some road-walking and an endangered frog area that suffered burn damage. I get the tent partially down and sit while I wait for the meds to take effect. Caleb makes me breakfast and we pull over to eat at some point.
We go around a turn, the car beeps loudly, and the low tire pressure light comes on. Caleb gets out and we both hear the air escaping, like there’s a rattlesnake inside, from the front passenger tire. We put all the trunk gear in the backseat and pull out the donut. All cars should come with a full-sized spare as I feel that the car handles differently.
mailing a postcard between friends
The lift gate (trunk door) is usually automatic but is now malfunctioning too. It will take us another hour to get down the hill but we average 96 mpg while doing so. We are able to park at Discount Tire in Pasadena for an hour until they open at 8. The guy says they can repair the tire for free, but ours needs to be replaced because its guts are coming out.
They can’t get a tire until 2, so Caleb calls another place that won’t have one in until 4p. He asks for help, and the guy on the phone directs us to America’s Tire, just a mile away. There is a line but cars are moving quickly. I make sure we have at least one option before adding our name to the waitlist. About $200 later and we’re ready for the road again by 930.
curry ramen
Caleb is prepared to drive further into Los Angeles for cheap lodging, while all I want is to be back on the trail, so we compromise and head north. We stop at a car wash and, after a YouTube video, are able to get the rear gate working again. When we get to Santa Clarita, I realize we are only 155 miles from Warner Springs, but we have put a thousand miles on the car.
We can’t check into the hotel yet, so we drive to Sen Noodle House for a long lunch outside. I wasn’t going to get food but I’m so glad I did. Once in our room, we will shower and Caleb will nap away the afternoon while I write. I find a copy of the Bhagavad Gita in a drawer, but I get back to writing as Caleb reads his Kindle.
We are up at 330 because though I want miles, I’m not willing to hike in the dark to get them. Caleb drops the four of us at Big Rock Camp at 515am. It’s 63°F, we are around 5,000 ft. of elevation, and only two miles of climbing away from the PCT at Vincent Gap. Trailer Park took his coffee for a walk and Rachel ran up the hill, with her rain pants on.
Gert is feeling much better and leaves me to hike at my own pace. This will be my first time alone on the trail and it’s half-freeing while also reminding me that others are waiting because Caleb is tracking me, even if he knows to get to the meeting point and hour or two earlier for Trailer Park. Back on the trail, I had to walk with my feet at an angle due to the steepness.
switchbacks
I see Gert again while he’s on his break after two hours of hiking, it had been every hour when he started, but the threat of heat and lack of water is a great motivator. I stop for a snack at 8 as all this huffing and puffing, just to hopefully only be an hour behind the group, is exhausting. I felt great when I woke up but now it feels like it’s already 2pm.
view just before the summit
Gert passed Rachel and I feel like he gave her the “wait on Jess” baton, but she’ll let me know she did because I don’t have FarOut and could get lost when the trail splits. We will hike to the summit together and reach it before 9. Gert is on the phone, there are a few trail runners, and Trailer Park is long gone. I borrow Rachel’s pen to sign a random page in the stack of hiker logs and take a quick selfie before slumping in the shade.
before and after the summit
I have a snack, and as Gert packs up, I’m ready to go. Rachel says she’ll catch up, because she has trail legs now and has been faster downhill than us. We are still making good time and we notice the red tint in bark and on rocks. Gert will get ahead on the inclines and wait at an intersection to point me in the right direction before going on.
going down the other side
The people who use this trail weekly let us know that we are a mile from the Little Jimmy Campground (currently closed to cars) which is two miles from the day use only parking lot. Gert and I use this as a snack spot to wait for Rachel who is just minutes behind. Gert gets behind a couple and when they let him pass, I see him start to jog like he can see Caleb with ice cream sandwiches.
We reach Islip Saddle to the sounds of Trailer Park and return noise at him. He saw Ravi and last heard that Caleb was stuck in traffic. There’s a campground across the street but the road is closed, so Caleb had to drive around. While we wait, a trail angel from El Salvador, who’s been in California for 40 years, delivers us pizza and baked goods and offers us one beer and cold waters.
Lieutenant Sparkles
While we eat, he sips the beer and tells us about his motorcycle collection. We see Caleb pull in, but we’re behind the vault toilet (we’ll take shade where we can get it) so he has to walk around to find us. It’s then that I see the poo paper nearby and call this meeting to an end. We find a spot at Buckhorn Camp and spread out so we can have a table in shade and the other in sunlight.
I am worn out and lie on the picnic bench in a nap-filled daze until Caleb mentions dinner, and Gert helps me up. I have to potty but the vault toilet smells so terrible that I must find a tree. I thought I’d get used to having to go inside those terrible contraptions, but they shut my body down. I’ve seen lots of pads in hiker boxes and they’re either buried or carried out. There’s a reason people bring a bidet and hand sanitizer.
The group is going to bed at 430, so I’m not the only one exhausted, but they are also hiking out tomorrow. I use a wet handkerchief to wipe down my dirty legs but am still too sweaty to sleep. There are also woodpeckers, my sore neck from last night, someone chopping wood, and I have a headache. There’s a guy who sounds like Ravi who is joining the two guys across from us.
Our bear box is full of trash and the ladies next to us sound like they’re at a wine bar and cackling to attract the opposite sex. The rest of my dinner is in the car, so I grab a snack from my bag and finish my water with electrolytes even though I’m over getting out of the tent repeatedly to pee. I will attempt to sleep again at 7pm and make it two hours before other campers’ lights are shining on our home.
Trailer Park, Lt. Sparkles, Rachel, and the trail angel
This, of course, means I have to get out of the tent again and wake Caleb when my top gets stuck to my earring, let alone the noise my tent pad makes. I’m still hungry and there’s snoring. Writing about all this now, I feel better. I can’t push myself to keep up with the others all day and expect to function properly. I also should’ve been able to pass out as usual, but not every day should be the same.
Trailer Park is always the first one up. We have leftovers from the night before, and then I start the Airbnb check-out list: leave it clean, and make sure we have everything we came with. Caleb and I drive up to Table Mountain Campground at 830 to reserve a spot. We pay at North Lodge for what looks like one of the two remaining sites.
I drop Gert and Rachel off at camp so they can set up their tents while I take Ravi back to town so he can find another group to hike out with later (but sooner than us). I’ll drop Trailer Park in town, so he can help Ravi (and they can enjoy a large and amazing breakfast) while Caleb and I go by the National Forest Interpretive Center to find out that the two volunteers know less than he does about which roads are closed.
Apparently, someone is giving out tickets if drivers or hikers are found in a closure area around Wrightwood, so we want to avoid that but also find a way back onto the trail. Caleb sets up our tent, and the four of us go to Grizzly Cafe, where we are seated with the lunch menu as Ravi leaves with Seeker, who is hiking with Greg and Nightcap.
The waitress was sweet to bring me blueberries with my Monte Cristo (closest thing to French toast) when she knew I wanted breakfast. This cafe is also popular with bikers who occupy most of the outside seating (way better than inside). On our way out, Gert and Rachel need stickers and cookies. I take a quarter from the coin tray to operate the moose head on the wall.
license plate art
We can’t understand him, but the kid’s mom at the bar will record it moving, and it seems like we made their morning. We walk to Mountain Hardware so Rachel can sign the hiker log and talk to two hikers from Denmark who are also looking for a way around the closure. We were headed to the Ruff Around arcade next, but got distracted by the offer of free ice cream at the social (that we didn’t find, even if we could hear the music).
It’s $13 an hour so no one wants to hang out with cats. We walk into the Community Center instead and get Mountain High stickers and I get a red bracelet, “I love to read.” A woman in there suggests the museum so we walk over there. This area is on an earthquake fault and subject to wildfires, hence the heroes who saved the ski resort, a mountain biking station in the summer.
I’m curious to see the old firehouse that remains upstairs. As I climb the carpeted steps I’m transported back to my grandma’s house in the 80s when brown interior was in fashion. The heat quickly removes Caleb, who gets to listen to the docent downstairs (who he and Gert agree is as old as the museum).
She tells them that half the castle arch over the road was removed to fit tour buses from Los Angeles. While they are still listening, I wander outside to see the old mining gear and the inside of a tourist cabin (too much luggage for me). Rachel is on a bench out front catching a nap while Trailer Park is hiding and waiting for us. I start to walk away and soon we are a group again.
We get to North Lodge in the afternoon, missing the grand opening at one of Mountain High’s other locations, where they had giveaways, as the one we passed was closed. Some of us have ice cream (Starburst is better as a candy) and Rachel is ready for another nap. Caleb will show Trailer Park where the camp is, so Gert and I find out the event is just across the road from us.
We drive down there and Gert is able to get a Sunbum sunscreen and a sticker that’s been run over from the traveling DJs, one from London who played his first gig at a place in Utrecht, so they think we’re both from the Netherlands. They tell us to ask for Todd, the manager, who has more stickers. We agreed later that he doesn’t exist and have drinks at camp after a traffic jam at our site because cars have to back in.
There is a concert from 5-8pm, and we know we have to go to bed early, but we are fading fast. Caleb drops Gert and me back to Rachel while he takes Trailer Park into town for gas. I can’t wait any longer and snuggle on my loud tent pad at 530pm. There will only be a concert for Rachel who was distracted by her phone inside and the last to bed.
Rachel is up and on her way to hike to McDonald’s at 5am, road-walking included, when a car alarm wakes me. Trailer Park is on the phone and Gert is sleeping in. Caleb has coffee, and Ravi is looking for one gaiter he lost (part of the set Caleb sold him at Serrano) and is still wondering what happened to his knife, necklace, and spoon.
He’ll ask who’s hiking with him and Gert tells him Rachel left three hours ago. He finishes packing up after us and leaves 15 minutes later. We’re not in a rush because we are going to meet Rachel and the guys are going to get some more miles with her before a night in Wrightwood at an Airbnb (not one of the listed ones in the hardware store that cost twice as much).
Grizzly Cafe
We get to McDonald’s about half an hour before Rachel’s arrival, who wants to wait for lunch before they go. We have to witness a Karen yelling for the manager about wanting breakfast (after they stopped serving it) and then something about her drink cup. She was very obnoxious and the staff handled the situation well.
Gert tells me that his wife is enjoying reading my blog and that she tells him that I take better pictures. Caleb says it’s because I post photos of him, not just lizards and trees. Troll is there again today and has made a long-haired friend. It’s fun to play hiker or homeless and this trail is a great place to be both.
Rachel’s legs
We return to the hardware store to weigh our bags, mine is 28 pounds with maybe a day of food, and no bear can. We order drinks – strawberry lemonade and raspberry tea and sit outside at Grizzly Cafe so I can get some writing done. Caleb is picking up the group from Swarthout Canyon Rd. and will be gone for over an hour as he gives another hiker a ride.
Gert shared his position but not that they stopped for water. Caleb will drop them off at a shady spot in the park and return for me. We get free refills and I appreciate the generosity towards thru-hikers. We wait 20 minutes at the skate park while watching a dad with pins and stitches in his leg fall down in front of his three kids.
Wrightwood Airbnb
One of his daughters trips into the packs and apologizes. I let her know that she’ll do more damage to herself than to these rugged sacks that we’ve already put through so much, such as throwing one down and sitting on it, because bringing a sit pad and getting it out is more work. I’m glad we waited to check in as I was sure there’d be a camera.
The place is cozy and the amenities amazing – heated toilet seat, white noise machine, extra blankets, air already on, tea options, and plenty of sitting and sleep spots. I will start laundry as soon as Gert, the last to shower, tosses his dirty clothes out. I have my sandals on to go outside and the washing machine is the dirtiest thing about this place, but it comes with soap.
tea with a gift from Trailer Park
The first load is done about 45 minutes later, but it seems dirtier than when it went in, so I wash it again and accidentally hit the 15-minute soak with the 2nd spin option, so it will be a while before I can start the second load. Conveniently, we all have different colors and designs on our clothes, except for Caleb and Rachel’s socks – both Injinji and both with holes.
Rachel and Trailer Park walk to the store so that they can make Dino Nugs, mac-n-cheese, and mixed vegetables for the tramily dinner after calling me and asking if we would eat it… not sure if asking permission or wondering about allergies. I help wash some dishes and remind Ravi to clean his. I’ll start the second load of laundry and enjoy baked s’mores while watching The Barkley Marathons.
Trailer Park, Caleb, Lieutenant Sparkles
Trailer Park and Rachel retire to the bunk beds upstairs with their phones and Ravi has his wet laundry on the dusty table outside after turning the washing machine off to unlock the lid. I lock the doors at 9, find Ravi’s bracelet in the shower and put it on the bar, and climb into bed after Ravi goes upstairs to cowboy camp so Gert can set up the pull-out in the living room.
Caleb drives Gert and me to the trailhead outside of the park, saving us some road-walking, but it skips a mile of trail, which brings my total missed to about 198 miles. I have Gert turn on my Garmin after 15 minutes when I remember. The hills are nice with warm and chilly breezes. The clouds are bursting with color.
The bushes are covered in webs waiting to hit my face if I don’t get them with my trekking poles first, and Gert is kind enough to remind me as it clears his path too. Yesterday’s incline was more gradual and the shadows longer. Gert has a cell signal and uses it to call work. He is leaving the trail after his wife comes because he’s answered the questions he brought with him.
Woolly Blue Curls
He’s speaking in Dutch so I don’t understand him, but a laugh is international and his is full of youth. Trailer Park will join us at 7am and tells us that Rachel chose to take a zero. She is quickly learning from Gert and Ravi’s blisters what not to do, so we are happy with her choice. She and Caleb will drop Jessi in San Bernardino so she can take the bus to the airport.
Her visit was short and sweet and left a mark on our tramily. If she can handle the desert with such grace, I hope she’s able to return and show the others how to hike a forest. Though maybe one of these times she’ll wear her pack. We admire the views and chat occasionally. Otherwise, we are in our heads, twirling our poles (I’m not there yet), or just trying to take it all in.
photo by Lieutenant Sparkles
Trailer Park had his phone ready if we needed to order ahead, but we reached the sign with 0.4 miles to go before 10am. Caleb and Rachel are at Cajon Junction waiting to give us a ride to McDonald’s. If it were just Caleb and me, we’d have walked on, but this golden arched establishment is a point on the trail that many hikers look forward to.
I used to love their fries until they got rid of the trans fats, and Caleb makes a better version of their McGriddle, so it’s been years since we’ve eaten here. I get my excitement up when I see a s’mores McFlurry poster on the window and am disappointed in their advertising when I get a vanilla soft serve with sprinkles instead.
You order from a screen and take a number. I got an ice cream and a chicken McGriddle because I knew I needed the calories. An employee asks if we’re hikers and hands over four apple pies. We are delighted and all having a good time, except for Troll who is wondering which person took his smokes. He has a PCT tag on his large pack and tells us he’ll camp nearby again and head out later.
Lieutenant Sparkles
We’re still sitting there while others order more food, make good use of the restroom, and charge what they can in the two outlets provided when we are given bags of biscuits and McGriddle bread labeled for donation. The same employee quickly brings over paper bags to hide the evidence of her kindness. We return to our current base camp, now site 39 in the most shade, and leave Rachel to nap while Trailer Park is on the phone.
We drive into Wrightwood to pick up Gert’s resupply and buy some meat to go with all the free bread. It’s a good thing Mountain Hardware is next to the post office. The sign out back says we are 373 miles from Mexico and the three hiker boxes have some used fuel cans that Trailer Park can transfer into his later. As part of Gert’s return home plan, he needs to sign something and send it back.
We go to the library where he’s able to do that and then to the store for a fruit tray and veggie tray to go with the chicken patties and spicy meatless sausage. We start dinner at 430 and as we’re heating up apple pies an hour and a half later, Ravi is just getting started.
We clean up camp after he’s had a chance to eat because I’m more concerned with squirrels and birds than any bears. We hear him crunching through half a bag of cereal like a raccoon after the rest of us have crawled into our tents for the night. This isn’t the first time our schedules have been off.
