The World’s Fastest Roller Coaster, in Abu Dhabi

photogenic camel

photogenic camel

Just entering Ferrari world feels amazing. I get out of the cab, cross the street, and go inside. There are gifts and snacks available before you take the escalator up. I got my bag checked and the guard was kind enough to put my glass bottle inside a pocket so it wouldn’t be seen before I could put it in a locker. You’re allowed 300 ml of water (not in glass) along with diabetic and/or baby food. It was fast and easy to buy my ticket, 240 dirham, with credit card and I was given another ticket, 35 dirham, for my locker – super technology.

With map and camera in hand, I bypassed everything until I saw the sign for Formula Rossa – The World’s Fastest Coaster. There was no one in line. I gave the staff my loose items to put in a plastic bucket. They gave me a rubber band with a number attached in return. I grabbed some goggles and got in line for the front. I was joined with a ten-year old boy and I wanted to be close to the camera, but he wanted to be close to his family that was filming, so I got on first.

engine on display

engine on display

The ladies on the platform give the safety check thumbs up after they’ve eyeballed for too short or tall a rider, taken any sunglasses or cellphones still in hand, and given nomex-like hoods to women wearing any head covering, sans hat, or traditional dress. How neat, I thought. Where I come from I’m taught these women are oppressed, but here they are free to wear what makes them feel comfortable and follows their religion while riding roller coasters, swimming at the beach, and eating sushi at the mall.

car on display

car on display

I had of course asked if I could bring my 1.5 pound camera with me and was warned that it would hit me in the face. I heard about the time Fabio Lanzoni got bludgeoned by a goose and there was more recently a small boy who got hit by a bird on a coaster that reaches 128 mph. We were embarking on a zero to 149 mph, in 4.9 seconds, ride. We would be experiencing 4.8 degrees of G-force for a minute and a half. This is the speed at which cotton and copper and cameras can damage you and other passengers.

World's Fastest Roller Coaster - Formula Rossa

World’s Fastest Roller Coaster – Formula Rossa

I’m grateful for the safety precautions. The engine steams as it’s misted with water between rides. The staff women make sure we’re seat belted and lap barred in. Multiple buttons are pushed, to ensure no accidental launch occurs, as the music (or my heartbeat) speeds up. I know it’s going to be fast, but I have no idea what to expect. The ride seems to creep, for only a second, as the front of the car rolls outside. I look up at the camera and then…

4.8 G's of facial goodness

4.8 g’s of facial goodness

We shoot forward and the water that was sprayed on the engine to help cool it off is now blowing in my face as we shoot forward at 240 km/h. I’m rendered speechless as we reach the top and I can’t see the track before the bend. This is the point where headbands, loose bracelets, and pocket paraphernalia are blown off. Another turn and we are pulling back in with an abrupt stomp on the brakes. That ride took my breath away and rearranged my fancy hair-do in moments. I lost track of time and facial expressions. My brain has been pushed to the back of my skull and forced my lips into a smile. It will stay that way as I find my footing again when the car stops.

The Racing Legends

The Racing Legends

I saw that there still wasn’t a line and wasn’t the only one making my way up the stairs to get back in line downstairs. There is a sign upon exit that warns about riding again within 15 minutes, something about your body going through shock – in a great way! The ladies smiled when they recognised me. This time I sat in the back and it was more of a bumpy ride. Knowing what to expect I attempted to scream, to throw up my arms, and to turn my head. Each act was met with the terrifying thought of loss, but the same amount of awe in the power and ingenuity built into this amazing roller coaster.

Galleria Ferrari

Galleria Ferrari

I got off the ride and felt light-headed. I knew I needed to wait before going again or I would be stumbling off the next time. Perhaps I should call Guinness and offer to set the world record for consecutive rides in an hour or a day. I went upstairs and made my way to the photo center to look at the pictures. I don’t usually buy roller coaster photos, but I did ride twice and they take two pictures – one on the initial bolt and another on a turn. They have a special on two photos and the lady took time to show me all four so I could pick the best two for 150 dirham.

Tyre Change Experience

Tyre Change Experience

I wanted to put my pictures away so I made my way towards the lockers, and I had to use the facilities, but this didn’t stop me from seeing all there was while I was walking by. First was walking into a wind pod room. You press buttons to increase the speed of a fan from 10 to 50 kph as you stand and squat to get the feel of the aerodynamics that goes into the construction of a race car. The Racing Legends was next and the staff pulled a car seat out before letting us take our seats. I thought about being concerned, but I’m not an infant.

cute random kid

cute random kid

Next was Galleria Ferrari where I saw cars that set records and that were built for anniversaries. There is a tire changing station where you can compete with someone for best time and a photo opportunity to sit behind the wheel of a Ferrari and let the staff post the picture to Facebook for a chance to win a new ride to school. I wish this was offered near where I went to high school, but then someone would’ve just wrecked a $200k car instead of the Nova, Corolla, and Cadillac I drove – total worth: $20,000.

Speed of Magic

Speed of Magic

The next ride was Speed of Magic, where you chase Nello in a 4-D adventure. The ride is only five minutes, but the artists spent thousands of hours on the computer images, and I wish I could’ve spent more time there. At 2:15 I was getting on the Fiorano GT Challenge coaster, after waiting through three rides, that only goes a measly 100 kph – not much after being on one over twice as fast. I’m sure it’s a great ride, and I suggest doing this one first.

Berlinetta Blast

Berlinetta Blast

From there, I went to Made in Maranello where I’m given a peek at a part of the secret process that goes into making these great cars. I passed the flume ride, mini-Italy, and interactive game show to see the Paddock where they store horse power and parts. I didn’t feel like waiting on the theatre or paying extra for the Scuderia Challenge simulator and found myself in line at Mamma Rosella’s ordering the “Ravioli alle Erbette” advertised on the park map.

Fiorano GT Challenge

Fiorano GT Challenge

I got to watch the chef prepare my meal from pot to plate and on my way to pay spotted the dessert island. I wasn’t going to get anything, but there was one piece with a chocolate with Ferrari World written on it that I thought I could post to Facebook and it managed to jump on my tray while I was distracted.  Lunch was spinach ravioli and pineapple cake had at a marble top table in a wooden chair with a checkered cloth napkin. With lunch over I was making my way back to the main event of the park – Formula Rossa, but not before getting in line to see what awaited me in Viaggio in Italia.

Made in Maranello

Made in Maranello

There was a dad in front of me with his five kids, four sons and a daughter, and two pretty girls got in line behind me. We were led into a room, watched a two-second film, and then a door into a larger room opened with rows of roller coaster seats lifted off the floor. I thought the chairs might swing a bit and we were told to put our flip-flops, sunglasses, and cameras into a plastic tub off to the side of the platform. We sat there waiting as each seating issue meant the whole row had to be unlocked.

Scuderia Challenge

Scuderia Challenge

I only saw two things get fixed – one boy sat with both his legs on one side; and his dad, no matter how hard the three ladies pushed, couldn’t fit him into the seat. We waited for him to switch seats, hoping the end would give him more room, and then waited on the other side of the room. I hoped this ride was worth the wait, so I was thrilled when the lights dimmed and our seats began to rise. I looked over for a better view of the stacks of seats. They didn’t want us dropping things from such heights – which fit the ride perfectly.

I wanted to ride the world’s fastest roller coaster one more time before leaving. The sign out front said the wait was thirty minutes and it was probably only twenty, but I wanted up front. I got excited when I thought I saw a guy riding single. I asked the staff, she asked him, and I made my way to third back only to find out there was another single behind him. Luckily, nine back was another single and I finished the rest of my hour wait next to him. If I’d been in more of a rush I could’ve sat in the second seat of the first car. It would still be as thrilling, but it was worth the wait.

kid baby/camera sitting while parents get some g-force!

kid baby/camera sitting while parents get some g-force!

We, me and the guy with his four friends, were next up when the staff came by to announce that VIP would take the next ride. There was six of them – two got in front and four in the far back. Then the ride was allowed to finish filling. I tried to ask if they were royalty, rappers, or basketball stars, but we were only told they were important enough to get front of line privileges without a pass, and probably park entry for free since they didn’t pay to have the park to themselves.

Ready, Set...

Ready, Set… 149 mph!

Upon their return the man on the left screamed, “That ride was fast as shit!” I don’t think the children were the only stunned ones. What surprised me was the girl wearing only a sweater that was waiting in line when I climbed aboard. Other travellers are either braver, unnecessarily rude, or more naïve than me to wear things like that in a culture that finds modesty more important than a beach in Spain; especially when signs are posted, but it’s doubtful they have more proper attire in their purse.

$500 shoes

$500 shoes

I was so anxious and excited to be doing the ride again. This time I was able to scream and put my arms up twice. It’s so thrilling. By now it’s 5pm, too late to go too far, but too early to go to the airport. I see the Yas Express map on the way out and the information center guy told me I could have luck with a view and possibly a ride on the track at Yas Central. I thanked him and walked through the gift shop (park exit) full of magnets, mugs, camels, logo shirts, luggage, $500 shoes, and some memorabilia. All the staff at Ferrari World are helpful, attentive, and the epitome of service with a smile.

belts, scarves, glasses, etc.

belts, scarves, glasses, etc.

I went down the escalators and across the street to the two Ferraris from Dubai with hot engines in the parking lot before standing by the bus stop. We left there at 5:50 and got to Yas Central at 6:16. I went inside and inquired about a ride. I was told to go upstairs. The guy at the desk told me to go downstairs and pick out a car – open or closed, or Aston Martin. I wanted the open ride. There was already one on the track, but back upstairs was another guy at the register and when he went to check availability he told me the next one would be in 45 minutes – too late for me and probably better for my wallet.

hot Ferrari from Dubai

hot Ferraris from Dubai

I watched the sunset over the track and ordered a forest mint-caramel coffee to go. I took pictures of the tips in the jar – 10 Saudi riyal ($2.67) and 10,000 Korean won ($9.57). As soon as the sun disappeared I walked inside and got a guy to take my picture inside a Yas Radical SST – a $327 experience to drive around the track. I walked out front and moments later the bus was pulling up. The driver commented on my length of stay or rather how I didn’t have enough time to participate, but I assured him Abu Dhabi had been a grand adventure and I won’t mind having to come back.

sunset over the track

sun over the track

He dropped me off at Ferrari World where all the nearby taxis are and I was hailed my first woman driver. She really knew how to handle turns and speed bumps and had me to the airport in minutes. Of all the drivers I wanted to talk to, she was the silent type. The cost worked out perfectly – my last two 20 dirham and three fils. A guy directly inside the front door tries to offer me a speed option through security for 100 dinars – I think not! I don’t see a line out the door and there are only three men and a bucket catching a drip from the ceiling in front of me.

satisfied customer

satisfied customer

I showed my passport to the agent and asked if I could take a picture of the cute gate, complete with Abu Dhabi police logo, that I would go through once he pushed a button. He said yes. I put my bag through the x-ray and then made my way towards Gate 11 past the bright yellow Lamborghini in the middle of the terminal. Near the entrance to the passage that leads to the gate is a shopping center selling Swarovski, Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Cheetos, camel figurines, international plug adapters, and a shelf of books by author John Green. There are more shops downstairs, but I’m distracted by the seven magazines I’ve picked up that are available for free.

ready to go again!

ready to go again!

I sit near the entrance to the gate security line area and wait. Twice I’m persuaded to jump up, grab my bag, and jump in line. And both times I’m told to turn around as the plane currently boarding is not going to Bahrain. I go back to ‘my’ seat (the one claimed for the evening) as a man was about to sit. I guess he felt uncomfortably close at two chairs away and chose to move further. This opened the seat next to me for an old woman who either tried to share where she was from or where she was going with me. I smiled and said, “Bahrain” and pointed to my gate.

Tucano Coffee

Tucano Coffee

My boarding pass said we were departing at 9:20 and we didn’t get the call to embark until 9pm. We had to go through another security scan to check people’s newly stuffed shopping bags. Between the jet bridge and the plane is the adapter curtain with a wheelchair in front of it and a sign posted, “Warning, risk of falling” with a man falling backwards off a step. I don’t know if the curtain connects to the bottom, but I hope the ramp doesn’t move while we’re on it. Once safely on the plane, past the sleeping children in first class, I make my way to 42B where the Purser, attendant in charge, is standing watch.

Lamborghini terminal, Abu Dhabi Airport

Lamborghini terminal, Abu Dhabi Airport

The guy beside me, by the window, starts to nod off before the safety brief. We take off at 9:53 and water is served in-flight, but no snacks – except to the child in front of me that’s given first class pudding, cheese, and crackers and the snotty brat only wants the cookies. The attendants seem to think the flight too short to offer food, but they are quick to hand out headphones for in-flight entertainment and wake people who have traveled for a day to put their seats and tray tables up, and those that are awake to put all their electronics away – all this before the captain announces to do so.

airport near Gate 11

airport near Gate 11

I understand that the crew didn’t deem the 45 minute flight a sufficient amount of time to serve over 150 passengers snacks, so I opened the bruised banana that had been with me since breakfast. I was grateful for the treat as I’d been spoiled on the way to Abu Dhabi by Etihad Airways and was not receiving the same level of service on my return flight via KLM. I tried to get the attention of a stewardess and upon failing I left a banana peel in the backseat – a first for me as I could’ve taken it off the plane easily, but it was an active act of passive aggression.

free reading material

free reading material

There is a family in the aisle and the parents are discussing the drive home via the Saudi Causeway that could add another hour or two to their long day depending on traffic. Then I meet a woman with her son in the passport line that’s hoping her husband is on the other side for their ride to Saudi too. They moved in with him in May, but went home to Houston for Ramadan, and the kid starts school on Sunday full of jet lag. All the discussion distracted me and she worked her way in front of me. She got charged four dinars for her passport stamp. After waiting in line for 20 minutes, even with her cutting, I got my stamp in seconds after handing the officer both passports.

I was thrilled to get a picture of the Welcome to Bahrain sign that I missed on my first entry to this country. Outside I was able to snap a blurry photo of an art camel and then catch the bus as it was leaving. I paid my four dinar for parking and enjoyed the short drive home. Sparky barked when I pulled up. I saw a note on the counter on top of mine. It told me that my dogs used the house as a bathroom and that Heather didn’t mind coming back to clean it up. There in the middle of the floor was a puddle of pee and on my table a bag of a roll of TP with pee, if not poo, helping to aromatise my home.

I grabbed the mop and scrubbed some to try to help the smell. I walked the dogs and they both pooped. There were pieces of dog food on the floor, their bowl had more hairs than water in it, and only a half of one bottle had been used – then why all the pee? I wasn’t going to unpack my bag, but I didn’t want the dogs chewing any food out of it and needed my phone charger which reminded me that the upstairs outlets still hadn’t been fixed. It would be a late night, but I had the energy from my trip to keep me going.

Posted in Art, Education, Events, Food, Media, People, Photography, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

The World’s Fastest Bird, in Abu Dhabi

sign on the window, room 529, Le Meridien

sign on the window, room 529, Le Meridien

I got up at 7am and made some English Breakfast tea. It was boiling as I got dressed and I sipped it while looking through the Introduction to the City book, before going down to the buffet offered at Talay. I sat facing the window and enjoyed a large meal over a course of 30 minutes. I went to the lobby to check out and collect my Starwood points that will credit to my account in 48 hours. I checked Facebook for ten minutes and then went outside for a taxi.

cup o' tea, English Breakfast

cup o’ tea, English Breakfast

I told the driver, “Falcon Hospital” and the guy was on the phone when the outdoor concierge and another employee from the hotel were trying to give him directions. They said I should get another taxi and escorted me to the one pulling up, “He knows where he’s going”. I debated going to Al Forsan that has paintball, a racetrack, equestrian activities, and shooting, but that seems it would be more fun to do with someone. This way I will have the largest hospital that treats the fastest bird in the world and the fastest roller coaster on the planet in the largest indoor theme park to add to my to-done list.

Falcon Hospital waiting room

Falcon Hospital waiting room

The driver tells me that a lot of the newer drivers don’t know where the hospital is – in a patch of desert past the airport – probably because so many people are concerned with rides where I’m capable of walking. We arrive at the hospital at 9:50, I pay the driver 70 dirham, and walk inside to ask the length of the tour. The driver wanted to wait, but the man said he would call me another taxi, so I don’t have to pay 30 dirham an hour for the two-hour wait time. I paid my AED170 tour fee with a 200 dirham bill and sat in the lounge area waiting for change and the tour to start.

showing off in the waiting room

showing off her wingspan in the waiting room

 

Waiting with me was a mother from Greece, who speaks seven languages, and her three kids, the daughter being the eldest, and three men waiting on birds. I looked at the falcons, sitting on turf covered benches, and smiled. I love watching them look around with their eyes covered. As long as they can’t see their neighbor, they won’t attack them – and these birds aren’t cheap. But when at home, with four or more possible roommates, they’re housed together to keep them friendly.

feathers, caps, needles, chopsticks, super glue, GPS transmitter, and arm sleeve

feathers, caps, needles, chopsticks, super glue, GPS transmitter, and arm sleeve

We are joined by a couple from Germany, the wife more bilingual than the husband, and a couple from Australia. I’m impressed with the amount of Deutsch the guide could speak, but there was one translation issue as to whether the word meant ‘to eat’ or ‘to reproduce’. I could understand the confusion as one word sounded like food and the other the process of cooking, not mating. We got an introduction in the museum – with pictures on one wall and birds in jars on another. We were offered juice during this time.

nails before the pedicure

nails before the pedicure

Our guide was humorous as he informed us of the three main species of falcon (also the national symbol) used in this area – Peregrine, Saker, and the Gyrfalcon. We were taught that the falcons live on mountains but migrate here, only eat fresh meat, and can carry twice their body weight. But the most interesting to me was learning that these birds are important enough to get official passports (sans photo because of annual moulting) so they can fly first class with their handlers to other countries where using them for hunting has yet to be outlawed.

a full syringe of vaccines

a full syringe of vaccines

We are brought back into the clinic and shown the different species and told that female birds are preferred for their larger size. A falcon is brought over and a plastic cone slipped loosely over her head, with room for gas to escape, but enough to make her pass out. The older boy thought they were killing the bird and his mother had to convince him otherwise. Now the doctor can trim talons and beak and load the strong little legs with plenty of vaccine fluids. These are powerful birds and I wouldn’t want to mess with them without drugs, a leather glove, or the voice of a Disney princess. 

buffing the beak with a hand drill after it's been trimmed

buffing the beak with a hand drill

We are shown the wingspan and I’m able to feel the bird’s tender heartbeat, the smoothness of its feathers, and the softness of her feet protected by newly trimmed nails. Her minimum speed is over twice as fast as a cheetah at 260 km/hr. Falcons are used for hunting as well as beauty shows. We get a quick look at the bird’s eyelids, ears, and mouth before she starts to wake up again and we are shown how her mask is put on. I thought it would be difficult, but they have been well-trained – enough to deliver prey live in return for meat of their own. 

trimming of the beak 'teeth'

trimming of the tomial teeth

Next we are shown the drawers full of ‘prosthetic’ feathers – ones that have been found from moulting birds. The doctors are able to attach them via needle on the top half (thin part of the feather) and with a chopstick and glue on the bottom half (where some people make pens). This only lasts until the falcons moult and get new ones annually, but each feather plays an important role in agile flight and finding the best match in weight, length, etc. is vital in maintaining the birds ability to fly. 

two drawers full of  labeled feathers

just two of the drawers full of labeled feathers

We get to hold a trained falcon – one that doesn’t have to wear a mask and doesn’t feel the need to make your face the next meal – with a glove on and then a tiny one, half the size of the other, on our bare hand. Once the guy taking photos figured out how to hold the shutter button down until it clicked on my camera he took a few pictures of me from different angles. Once everyone had a turn it was time to watch the feathered falcon tear chunks off the bald, raw bird the girl was holding until her arm got tired.

a falcon posed on my hand

a falcon posed on my hand

We passed an operating room, complete with machines that go Bing! on our way to the trophy wall with awards from around the world on the hospital’s quality and excellence of treating these expensive birds. Back out into the bright sun to see three local owls, in their shaded pen, that have been injured and live here now. We were taken by golf cart to the moulting room to see five falcons hanging out in their air-conditioned/with open window space. The guide ask that we not get to close while in the same room as them and had to scold the mom for setting a bad example.

showing off her colors and cap

showing off her colors and cap while being weighed 

Back on the cart, the guide tells me he’s from Turkey and is going back in a month. I told him he should give my husband and I a tour, but then he quickly disappeared after showing us the last part of the tour – a golden banquet hall, a museum of photos and animals no longer living, a gift counter, and a photo opportunity with a live falcon, a stuffed camel, and you in traditional dress. One of the taxidermy treats in the museum is a gazelle, whose species is likely extinct, but I was lucky enough to spot its two cousins beside shrubbery behind the tall fences to protect them from the desert roads.

doctor and patient

doctor and patient

There is a cab outside waiting for me. I use the facilities and am in the backseat by 11:45 and on my way to Yas Island where Sajjad will drop me off 25 minutes later.

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Sunset Safari

city centre of Abu Dhabi as seen from Anantara Eastern Mangroves Hotel

city centre of Abu Dhabi as seen from Anantara Eastern Mangroves Hotel

We walked to breakfast at Talay, the hotel’s restaurant on the water, at 5:50 and were going to sit outside, but got overwhelmed by the size of the buffet, so we chose a table nearby the juice-water-yogurt stand. We were brought fresh coffee in the press, then made our way to the bowls of cereal, fruit, veggies, meats, breads, and pork, and the hot section with pancakes, eggs, sausage, and soup.

We ate, probably as usual, but it felt rushed and I didn’t mind because we had plans today. We walked to the front of Le Meridien at 6:20 and there was a taxi waiting. He got us to the Anantana Hotel 15 minutes later. Being there early gave us a chance to walk around and take in the view of the water, sun, city, and mangroves. Our guide arrived, we paid him 150 dirham each, then were given a safety brief – how to wear a floaty, and how to use the oars. This was the greatest piece of advice as usually my arms get tired, but keeping my elbows at 90 degrees and turning my body gave a more even motion and a nice workout.

dressed up for the mangroves kayaking tour

dressed up for the mangroves kayaking tour

Heading out was easy. I left my phone and camera and Caleb left his wallet so they would stay dry, even though we had a dry storage area. I should’ve brought my camera. The current carried us in past at least eight different species of birds – little egret, reef heron, redshank, graceful prinia, reed warbler, crab plover, white-collared kingfisher, black-necked stilt; and past thousands of crabs. Our guide Rian sounded very knowledgeable of the area and when we showed interest he opened up to us about his degree in biology and told us about the water, the plants, the animals, and the reason for the colors, sounds, and textures of things.

our tour guide looking into the sun

our tour guide, Rian

We learned how to differentiate male and female crabs and which ones are good to buy at the market. We learned about the circle of life for the local trees and how the salt from the water comes out of their leaves. We learned about the aerial roots that give them oxygen and the role the crabs play in maintaining the area. We stopped on a beach for our halfway break. Rian brought enough water and fruit cups for five people, three of which cancelled because they were still in bed when he called. He pointed out some fox holes and I tried to look in, but they are deep and dark.

paddling through the mangroves

paddling through the mangroves

After being there awhile we headed back into the current, but the paddling was still easy. Our guide is from the Philippines, spent some time in Iraq, and has lived here for two years. He loves his job and teaching the other guides more about the area they work in. We use the facilities inside at 10, after being offered more water and fruit upon our arrival on the dock. Their bathroom has fresh hand towels for personal drying and the toilet is motion or hand censored. One taxi drives away as another arrives. I love the service here.

lighting in Anantara

lighting in Anantara

I ask for a ride to City Centre and then we decide on Crowne Plaza because it should be near Capital Garden, and we end up near a tall shell-top looking building that happens to be next door to the large, indoor WTC Souk. We walk the other floors, ones we didn’t see yesterday, before making our way by Lake Park and then weaving through the tall buildings to find shade. We tried finding shawarma when we saw guys eating it and should’ve gone into the restaurant where it looked like they were cooking fresh bread.

Al Sayegh Centre - downtown architecture

Al Sayegh Centre – downtown architecture

We find our way back to Le Meridien at noon. This will give us a chance to desalt, desweat, and get some complimentary cappuccino downstairs before going to Abu Dhabi Mall to walk around before our ride to Port Zayed for our tour of the desert. We hand in our coupons and find a table. We are served small cups with large leaf designs in the foam. Caleb chugs his down while I try the chocolate chip with nut cookie. We were going to split a sandwich, but it was $16, so we waited for the mall. I buy three dates with different stuffing – hazelnut, pistachio (favorite), and chocolate covered jelly – at 2:30pm and eat them before noticing the Cinnabon.

extensive brush kit in a make-up store

extensive brush kit in a make-up store in WTC Mall

I didn’t want the large one that I’ve had maybe twice in the past, but I have to remember I’m overseas where portions come in many different sizes besides large and supersize. A mini-roll and bottle of water cost us $5.44. It was delicious on its plate covered with cream cheese and drizzled with chocolate. I lingered in the moment and Caleb was content with watching me eat something so good, but so bad for his butt and thighs. We got in a taxi towards the port at 3pm.

WTC Souk

WTC Souk

I thought the tour was leaving base at 3:30, but at 4pm it looked like we were still waiting for people to get out of their rack (tiny allotted sleep area). At 4:15 we were waiting on another vehicle so that we averaged five tourists and a driver to each car. It would be less comfortable to be bouncing around in the back shoulder to shoulder. We ended up in the boss’s car with someone up front and the back to ourselves. We left at 4:30. An hour and 80 km later we were hitting the sand.

river park

Lake Park

We parked by a camel farm with twenty or so eating hay and drinking water. There were some donkeys nearby but they walked away when we neared. I got to take a selfie with a camel and some of the guys were nice enough to take pics of Caleb and I together and me with the camel. I’m glad they all knew how to use my camera. Meanwhile, the drivers are letting air out of their tires to get better traction in the sand.

"Think I'll just have a few smokes before my nap in the shade."

“Think I’ll just have a few smokes before my nap in the shade.”

We stayed there for ten minutes then drove through the desert for thirty minutes. It was thrilling. I filmed for a while, but couldn’t capture the feeling of sliding down a sand dune or coming up on the peak and then going over at what seemed like high speeds to me. We came close to a tree and sand was flying by our windows, but I wasn’t scared. Our driver has done this since he was 12 and professionally for this company for the last eight years.

masons re-bricking the sidewalk

masons re-bricking the sidewalk

We had to find some of our group that had begun following another caravan and then we stopped to rest the cars and take in the view, take a group photo, and watch one guy do somersaults and another make a sand angel. Back in the car, over more dunes and we come to a road. We follow this, more sand, and then a village – or deserted booths that could be filled when the occasion called. We are led inside and I wonder where the rest of the group is. They have headed to the boards to sand surf.

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I wait my turn for a board and drag it up the dune by one of the foot handles. I make it two-thirds the way up easily and then huff and puff my way up the rest. A guy from another group was the first to sit and many followed – including me. I was wearing a dress and didn’t want my bits showing. I made it quite far before walking the board back for Caleb to use. He got a picture of the sunset on his way up as I had him hold my camera when I went – which was a good thing considering how covered in sand I was just from the wind blowing it around our feet and me using my hand to support myself.

persistent foam

persistent foam in Le Meridien

We made our way inside the booth village, past the camel ride, and went to reserve a seat, grab some water, and use the facilities. I wondered what I would find inside and Caleb told me it would be a bucket – perhaps too much run off in the sand would ruin a natural spring nearby for the camels. I prepare myself as I walk in and see tile floors, flush toilets, and running water in the sinks. I wash my arms so that I can get henna done. I sit with the guys while waiting for the line to thin and then they follow me in there hoping to get manly things drawn on their arms.

dress with matching tire swing in Abu Dhabi Mall

dress with matching tire swing in Abu Dhabi Mall

I got some swirly designs from fingertip to mid-arm and was distracted talking while Caleb got his. I heard him say his name and was awed when I saw it written on his arm in Arabic, or the artist’s translation of it. That’s also what the other guys got – name or girly design. Caleb and I tried to teach them a bit behind the meaning of it. And one guy asked if you had to continually reply it after marriage. We sit around some more, and of course I’m the first one in line at the buffet when dinner is announced.

Caleb posing for a lady with a camera - and it's not me

Caleb posing for a lady with a camera – and not just me

I get pita, hummus, biryani, cauliflower, tabbouleh, coleslaw, and something warm on my dinner plate that has tomatoes in it. I’m handed a bowl of dessert. I clean my plate and wait for the line to clear before going back for seconds. Caleb grabs me another water. I’ve lost count of the bottle consumption today. The dessert is agreed to be either too sweet or a delicious mix of bread pudding and oatmeal. I agree with the former, but it doesn’t stop me from making sure that dish is clean too.

a camel drinking in the desert

a camel leaking water in the desert

I’m grateful I’m wearing a dress so my full stomach doesn’t have a waistband in the way. While we are sitting there digesting we are given a show at 8pm. A belly dancer comes out of one of the many tents where they also had tea and dates, Bedouin clothing to try on, and sheesha to smoke with your boss. She does a dance on stage with her winged outfit, another with a cane balanced on her boobs and a guy from the audience, another with a sword balanced on her side, and then she picked three girls from the audience. The two that stayed up there seemed to be proficient in their movements and one girl seemed to be singing along.

"Excuse us, but we're trying to drink here."

“Excuse us, but we’re trying to drink here.”

They put on a good show and then the lights go out so we can stargaze for ten minutes. We all moved our seat cushions back and used them as pillows. It was awesome. I enjoyed being barefoot in the desert with Caleb’s command. It felt relaxing and peaceful, not all official and uniforms and such. Then it was an abrupt, “good night, go home”.

not letting the paparazzi interrupt their dinner

not letting the paparazzi interrupt their dinner

Our driver was waiting for us at the exit and the camels were too. I missed sitting on them and feeling them get up and down. I will have to do that next time. I’m sitting in the car with the door open and the driver asks me to close it while he stands outside making sure everyone makes it back to their ‘assigned’ car. That lasts about five seconds before I open it again. He asks this time that I please close it and then apologizes when he feels that it’s warmer in the car than the 35 degrees outside. He thought he had left the air on.

dune bashing in action

dune bashing in action

While we had a good time at the village, the drivers went back to fill the tires with air for the drive home. We came over a dune and the boss pushed a car out of the sand. I thought Caleb could help, but he’s not allowed – can’t be hurting the military guests. Our driver talks on the phone the entire ride home. We had shared a laugh or two on the way there between calls and the music. It doesn’t bother me as it gives me and Caleb time to talk and we talked with the guy up front.

our safari group

our safari group while the guides let the trucks cool down

We get to the port at 9:30 and I ask for a ride to the mall/hotel. The driver asks Ops (operations officer) and he says ok, then the driver calls his boss and tells me sorry he can’t because it’s not a designated stop. The drivers leave at 9:45 and we follow on foot. The command has already gone onboard and Caleb called two numbers that won’t connect, don’t have service, or whatever. The number I call tells me to call the broken number and tells me no taxi when I ask to be picked up from the port.

Everybody's gone surfin',  surfin' UAE.

everybody’s gone surfin’,
surfin’ UAE

We make it to the road when a guard asks, “Sir, where are you going?” I respond for Caleb and tell the guy, “We are leaving base”. That seems to be enough for him and I see a security truck. I pause thinking they may pick us up, but they keep driving so we keep walking. We make it to the gate and the guard tells us next time to have our boss call him to call a cab. It’s too far to walk. It may be a mile and I don’t know what they are concerned with us seeing. One side is a wall and the other some machinery, lifts, and a few boats.

one of the many signs you're in the desert: you're covered in it

one of the many signs you’re in the desert: you’re covered in it

We make it past the market and to the second light intersection before we find a taxi that’s not full. We run across the last crosswalk, hop in the taxi, and the light turns green. He’s in the lane to take us to the hotel, but Caleb changes his mind and we go to the mall. It’s 10:30 and the mall closes at 11pm. We look at the map and then ask the guard about camera stores. He points to his left on this floor and to the right on the next floor.

Caleb's manly henna tattoo

Caleb’s manly henna tattoo

We go left and ask inside. It’s the last one in-stock for $34. My battery is going to die and I have another day in Abu Dhabi. I told Caleb I could use my phone, but remember that a battery was trashed (old and swollen) while in the Dragon Hotel, so this is just a replacement. We walk back to the hotel, past all the slightly dressed women in the parking lot approaching men, but none brave enough to face a couple.

In the room, Caleb offers to take some of the stuff from my bag so I don’t have as much to carry on the plane. I’m fine with that. It’s now 11pm and he needs to go. He gives me back my phone, cash, and ID that he kept for me in his pocket throughout the day. We had also stopped at the exchange in the mall to get me another 240 dirham so I can see the falcons, pay the taxis, and figure the rest out. He left for the port and I got in the shower. My hair will by half dry going to sleep, but I need rest. We are both dehydrated, even after all the water we drank. And I’m hoping for another long day tomorrow.

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Awesome Drive Through Abu Dhabi

an apple a day...

an apple a day… at Port Zayed Vegetable Market

I woke up at 2:45 and jumped out of bed. Checked the time and went back to sleep. I woke again at 5:15, same thing, but this time I heard a hair dryer, so I got up myself. I love Kathrine’s place. The view from my room is lovely, even with the dried dirt on the window. I have my own shower and it’s stocked better than a hotel. Time to open the door and see what today brings. I was even able to charge my phone last night! It was down to 37%. It’s then that I find out that my phone didn’t update the time yet, even though it welcomed me to Abu Dhabi. I will turn on location services and be grateful I got up when I did.

a sign of things you can't do

a sign of things you can’t do inside Mina Zayed Port

Kathrine gave me a ride to the Mina Zayed Port and dropped me off in front of the fruit and veggie market. On the way there she shared a story with me about locking herself out of her car and then finding out the passenger door was unlocked after she asked for help. I walked to Gate 1, through the market, got a free green apple, and ate it on the way to Gate 2. The guard didn’t want me to walk to ‘the navy’ because of the long distance. Caleb finally got a ride from the chiefs at the same time I got a ride from port security.

the main entrance to the mosque

the main entrance to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

I met Caleb inside the air-conditioned building that’s between the road and his ship on the other side. Suppo got me two bottles of water. I drank one while we waited the 30 minutes for the tour guy to show up. He would only be taking four of us. Caleb, me, Monsegur (who was still in his rack), and Donaldson. We went by palaces (their meeting houses the size of a large office) on the way to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The tour driver had an abaya, that fit perfectly, and a hijab, that didn’t in the back of the van. I had so much trouble with the light scarf. I tried tossing it over my shoulders, then Caleb tied it in front, the tour guide tied it in back, and then I re-tied it twice.

a million floral details

a million floral details in the mosque

The mosque is huge and very beautifully detailed with mother-of-pearl. We walk up to the entrance and the guard points at the hijab. I walk up to him and the look of pure mortification on his face was worth it to suggest that he do something about this mess that I’m struggling with in the wind while trying to enjoy what little time I have here. I want to take in the height and width of the floral designs in the walls and on the marbled floors.

the wind tunnel in Masdar City

the wind tunnel in Masdar City

We take our shoes off and some stick to the black mat. I prefer the cooler temperature of the decorative floor. I have to pick up my dress and abaya to prevent myself from tripping over them. That bit of heel on my sandals comes in handy. We walk through the large, main prayer room, leaving so much unseen, but seeing the largest hand-tied carpet in the world and chandeliers that cost as much as the entire mosque in Bahrain. That’s quite impressive and worth the cost of the tour alone, but we have other places to see. Shoes back on, more pictures of columns and the courtyard, then take hejab off as soon as I see the parking lot.

model of Masdar City

model of Masdar City

We pass by the Aldar Headquarters circular skyscraper, one of many built around the world – Guangzhou Circle, China; Fang Yuan, Shenyang; Radisson Blu, Frankfurt – on our way to Masdar City, a campus living off-grid. After parking in a concrete scene from the future we take a magnetically driven car to a cluster of buildings above us and make our way upstairs to see the wind tunnel and all the solar panels on top of the building and in the distance past the parking lot. I’m glad I didn’t go out by myself, but it’s worth seeing.

Personal Rapid Transit - the car of Masdar City

Personal Rapid Transit – the car of Masdar City

My favorite part is the quiet car that runs smoothly and leaves plenty of space between vehicles and walls. I love the idea that no one would ever crash into me again, but I would miss the power of the wheel in my hand. In the main office is a model of the city. There was a business meeting or someone from the royal family surrounding it earlier so we had to wait to see the little people, bright lights, green trees, and solar-panelled roofs. It’s almost a perfect replica except that the streets don’t light up red yet, but leave black marks from tires, magnets, or recycled baby seals.

Museum

Manarat Al Saadiyat Museum entrance

The tour guide gets the car while we wait inside. I’m the first one out so I can better read the sign about the waterless carwash, but it doesn’t specify what is used instead. I would like to think they use children’s tears or melted gumdrops. We are driven out to Yas Island (bigger than it looks on the map) and by Marina Circuit – Grand Prix venue; Ferrari World – home of the world’s fastest roller coaster; Du Arena – 50,000 spectator concert venue; and Waterworld – where you can find the world’s first rattling waterslide.

the chair exhibit

the Chairs exhibit in Manarat Al Saadiyat Museum

We pass Yas Mall, IKEA, and the future sites of the Louvre and Guggenheim museums on our way to the Manarat Al Saadiyat Museum where the galleries are closed, but the architecture, Chairs exhibit, and gift shop remain open. There’s a ‘fat’ Porsche in front of Gallery 2 and I went under the door to have a look around before the curator came in to escort us out. Then I notice the sign for the British Museum “World in 100 Objects” exhibit – including the objects from the book that I read twice – and I’m bummed to have missed it by 25 days.

downtown in the distance

downtown Abu Dhabi in the distance

The two guys with us grab something from the café. It’s 12:40 pm and they are stuck to their military schedule. Donaldson finishes his sandwich as he gets in the van, but I get to listen to Monsegur finish his tuna. Maybe I should’ve volunteered Caleb for the middle seat or we could’ve sat further back on the way to Heritage Village. The tour guide stays in the van and gives us 30 minutes to see the leather, carpenter, glass, metal, pottery, etc. shops (pre-oil UAE) and the museum, but this one is closed too. We got a picture of the Abu Dhabi skyline from the beach and made it back to the car in 20 minutes.

view of downtown from Heritage Village

view of downtown from Heritage Village

Then we are dropped off in front of Marina Mall with an hour and a half to eat, shop, and meet back at the van. Caleb and I headed straight to the Sky Tower to see the view. You’re allowed up (as long as you buy a drink). There’s plenty of glass, water, and marble to keep those specialties in business; and then there’s the skating rink that might seem normal in New York City, a water park in Florida, or a hotel in San Diego, but here it makes sense to have an extra cold activity to combat the extreme heat. Though if you move your muscles create energy, so you’re better off just laying there.

pottery wall art at Heritage Village

pottery wall art at Heritage Village

I thought we would stop at one point, but the elevator kept going until we hit the V floor where Columbiano Cafe is located. Suppo was the first person I saw there with another guy having lunch. I ordered the Fabiano drink (mango and ice cream with passionfruit seeds) and shared a Greek Salad with Caleb. We ate all the veggies off with our fingers and then I had some of the lettuce. The feta was delicious. We decided to go upstairs to the R floor where the formal dining (and the awesome rotating floor) is, but were kindly blocked from walking around and interrupting other people’s meals.

the carpenter shop at Heritage Village

the carpenter shop at Heritage Village

Downstairs we passed by the More Cafe and Caleb had seen cheesecake. I saw them giving out bags and balloons and we sat down to complimentary water and shared a chocolate croissant. The restaurant opened yesterday and they are still celebrating. Their menu comes on sheets of paper nut and bolted to a large piece of hardened cardboard. I had thought we would get the bags without the balloons and since Caleb didn’t feel like giving them to a child he loudly popped them upstairs and threw away the pieces. Inside the bag is two sacks of cookies.

the desert from a giant's-eye view at Heritage Village

the desert from a giant’s-eye view at Heritage Village

We get lost for a moment, being one hall over from where we entered. Outside, we see the van and get in as the other two approach. We park near the entrance to the Miraj Islāmic Centre where things are handmade from the Muslim world – Egypt, India, Russia. We are shown into a room where a lady shows us a $1,000 rug and then twists it to show that we can be rough with it (for packing and traveling purposes) when we hear one of the gems fall to the floor. We all can’t help but laugh and leave the room. We walk around the other two floors looking at art for sale and then go outside to take a picture of the view.

Heritage Village in the foreground as seen from Sky Tower in Marina Mall

Heritage Village in the foreground as seen from Sky Tower in Marina Mall

We’re there 15 minutes and the van is cool upon our return. We visit the WTC Souk, our first one indoors and are told to stick to this level and don’t go outside. We wander around looking at kitty clocks, bags of frankincense, and balls of tea that turn into flowers. There are hair brushes and salt shakers with burkas on; and bits of camel bone artistically carved and shaped into a large horn. Inside Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory is a piñata-like camel carrying a load of chocolate. We are given a sample to satisfy our craving.

drink and menu in Sky Tower

Fabiano drink and menu in Sky Tower

We finish looking at the mini-rugs for computer mice and cups of tea from the shop with all the samples displaying the leaves and water color. We look at the milk and fruit bread from the small store with plenty of empty shelf space, and the woven pottery near the café. I want to buy lots of things but don’t want to carry them back on the plane, or spend that kind of money – though at first it seems like a lot, I have to remember to divide by three.

a fountain in Marina Mall

a fountain in Marina Mall

We go to the fruit and veggie market by the port, where I got my free apple hours ago, and visit the date section. We each grab a different color (level of ripeness) and we all prefer the more dried ones. The man inside offers us different stuffings, one with a hair stuck in it, and some fig. Yes I pulled the hair out, threw it away, and ate the date – when in Abu Dhabi. I buy a small sample box even though the bulk are better – more freshly prepared.

Marina Mall decor

Marina Mall decor

The driver drops the other two off at the tent in front of the boat and gives us a ride to Le Meridien hotel. I tip him 10 dirham for saving us from a taxi, and then we walk in at 4:50. I give the clerk my confirmation sheet and then he asks for passport and ID from Caleb that produces his military ID. I guess it doesn’t have the info the guy needs so he just makes a copy of it. We are upgraded to room 529. We’re asked if there is a special occasion, but can’t decide on a good time to deliver the birthday cake (that they would probably charge outrageously for) because we don’t plan on being in the room – even if it does come with a mini bar, bathrobe, foot bidet, and recycling bin.

World Trade Center Souk

World Trade Center Souk

We go across the lobby to the concierge to check on tours of the Falcon Hospital and Mangroves National Park. He calls both places for us and we are set up for a kayak tour of the mangroves tomorrow morning at 7am, and then I will see the falcons on Thursday morning at 10am. I write until Kathrine picks us up at 6pm. She takes us to Kuya Juan, a Filipino restaurant near PJ O’Reilly’s, for dinner. She orders fried pork, shrimp soup (full shrimp – eyes and poo included), and rice. I ordered the milk tea with boba and expected big balls with my fat straw but got tiny ones with gel fruit chunks too.

section of camel bone carving

section of camel bone carving

I had no problem with the pork, even after imagining its bloody corpse in the meat market this morning, but was debating eating the shrimp. Kathrine put two in a bowl with plenty of broth and veggies. I switched with Caleb hoping to get more okra than crustacean, but we were both in for an experience. I saw Kathrine tearing up the shrimp on her plate and decided to do the same. She ate with a fork and spoon easily. Caleb and I struggled, but managed to enjoy the meal with plenty of rice and soy sauce.

the date market

the date market

We were in no hurry and the meal was down to a meat-covered bone and a plate of rice. I told Caleb to take a picture of me holding it and Kathrine let me know that’s the best part – the eating, not the sharing of images. I made sure no one else wanted some before digging in. Then we split dessert of fried banana in phyllo dough with ice cream drizzled in chocolate. We left there around 8:30pm, and on our way out the door I noticed the tray of cutleries for pork separated from the rest. Kathrine dropped us back at the room. We explore the hotel, walking to see the lights reflect off the water, and then into the gym, pool, spa access area.

the view from room 529 in Le Meridien

the view from room 529 in Le Meridien

I was under the impression that these amenities were free, but the lady at the desk told us they were closed even though we saw guys playing ping-pong and wanted us to pay. I didn’t feel like arguing, but wasn’t ready to go back to the room yet either, so we walked over the highway crosswalk to the shopping centre, and then did rounds of two floors in the Abu Dhabi Mall on the other side of the street. We stopped in at La Cure Gourmande and tried some cookies and olive chocolate before buying some of both.

view across the water from Le Meridien

view across the water from Le Meridien

Caleb is getting tired and remembers that he has to check in with the boat. We head back to the room at 10pm. Caleb is getting ready for bed and presents me with a tub of Moringa Body Butter that he bought for me the day they pulled in. It smells like a delicious morning. Time for me to be done writing so I can brush my teeth, get lotioned up and go to sleep. We have another long day tomorrow.

late night shopping at Abu Dhabi Mall

late night shopping at Abu Dhabi Mall

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Amazing Day in Abu Dhabi

sunrise over Floating City

sunrise over Floating City

I woke an hour before my alarm went off. I walked the dogs to the beach when everyone else is up doing the same thing before the sun bakes the bricks. I double-checked everything, washed my dishes from last night, and made a strawberry-banana protein shake for breakfast. I’d like to thank all the people keeping in touch with me and wishing me well on this trip. I’m excited to be flying to another country on my own.

one happy traveler via Etihad Airways

one happy traveler via Etihad Airways

Dad didn’t think I was supposed to leave until tomorrow and Caleb thought I was an hour behind. I put the airport address in my phone and followed it even though I thought I should go to the south side of the airport and this seemed to take me north. I followed it to the end of the route – planes in sight, but directly in front of a police station. I was going to simply make a u-turn, but the officer came out of the shack so I turned wide and rolled my window down.

view from the taxi driving towards the Corniche

view from the taxi driving towards the Corniche

I asked how to get to airport (hand flying symbol) and he made sure he understood me and that I understood the directions he gave me. Continue down this road, go through two lights, and turn left at the third. Then you will arrive at a (made a circling motion) “roundabout”, yes, and continue through that. You are at the airport. I continued towards Busaiteen and remained calm knowing I had given myself time to get lost.

a passing view

a passing view

I was so thrilled when I saw the sign for passenger terminal. I u-turned to try to get in lot B or C, not that much closer really, but they were full. I pulled in to lot D, parked, walked inside the building with washroom and pay station, and a man came in and told me the bus was coming. I opened the door and there it was. Good thing I stepped out when I did too or he would’ve u-turned in front of me and I would’ve had to wait another ten minutes.

walking along the Corniche

walking along the Corniche

We stopped by the B and C lot and I was amazed at the precision of his driving, coming within an inch of all the guard poles to turn the ten seater around. He dropped me off in front of the airport and I made my way inside with a smile wearing my red hat. The sign pointed left to check-in, but that was for first class, so I went back right. Then walked by the security guy into the large area with all the check-in gates and baggage check.

selfies on the beach

beach selfie

I walked past the line for Etihad Airways and when I asked where it was the guy spoke and pointed behind me. I approached the woman at the counter and she told me they open in five minutes. I waited. She called me up. I handed her the confirmation I printed out along with my tourist passport. She asked if I was going to Abu Dhabi only and if I had any bags to check – yes and no. “Gate 16A. Have a good trip.” I proceeded to the passport check area. I had to check-in with a guard before approaching the guy at the computer. He asked for a military ID and I handed him the official passport that he stamped with today’s date.

country pride on the skyline from the beach

country pride on the skyline from the beach

Then I got in the security line, threw my bag on the belt with my glasses and phone, and stepped through the x-ray. The guard on the other side asked me to lift my hat and then waved me through. I looked for Gate 16 and found it between 15 and 16C. I would’ve stopped there, but I had to use the washroom which is down by Gate 17, after I took a picture of the wooden art on the wall. There are two stalls with a janitor sitting on the sink basin with a face mask on.

I miss you

I miss you

On my way back to my gate I see a sign for Gate 16A. I make my way downstairs, also towards the prayer room, and have to check-in again. The woman tells me this flight leaves for Qatar and I can wait upstairs until my flight is called. I’m making my way back up the stairs when I’m stopped by a man wondering where I’m from. When he hears I come from so far away he asks if I’m on vacation. I tell him I’m living in Bahrain, but going to Abu Dhabi on vacation. He tells me I’m very attractive and that my husband is a lucky man.

very large fountain

very large fountain

I thank him and we split ways – him down the stairs and me up to sit in the chairs across from the door. There are four coffee shops – Caribou, Costa, Starbucks, and Gloria – just in this hallway with a Chili’s that’s already open. I love the service hours here. I saw a mother of five boys walk by. The youngest fell and I heard his head hit the floor. His older brother picked him up and consoled him. The second oldest didn’t want to go any further and after being scolded by mom the oldest brother grabbed him by the wrist and escorted him along. I’ve heard of kids helping, but I’ve never seen it so well in action. The airport is a great place to people watch, but isn’t that always the case.

Nation Tower, ADNOC Bldg., Emirates Palace, Presidential Palace (under construction)

Nation Tower, ADNOC Bldg. (UC), Emirates Palace, Presidential Palace (under construction)

I should’ve hit the record button. It was great to watch the crowds walk by. Most were modest and then a lady walked by wearing her man’s shirt. They just happened to be on the same flight as me. I noticed the water cooler by the door to downstairs – and a guy adding hot water to his cup to get rid of the icy touch. I filled my bottle, went to the washroom again, and then went downstairs to wait until 9:30 when they decided to tear our boarding passes in half and let us wait another 15 minutes. We were due to depart at 9:45, but I was in no hurry.

inside Etihad Towers

inside Etihad Towers

They made last call over the speaker and even announced we were ready for take off before the doors opened and all 20 passengers were loaded on the bus for the short ride to the next terminal where the stairs would take us to the cabin of the plane. I had expected a 20-seater plane, but they had just delivered 200 people and this was all that was going back so we got to sit anywhere we wanted (had I only thought of upgrading). I chose 19A, about five seats back in economy, so I could be by the window and everyone got their own row.

Emirates Palace, Marina Mall, Heritage Village

Emirates Palace, Marina Mall, Heritage Village

The steward offered to take my picture in the empty two-thirds of the plane to make it look like I had it all to myself. At that moment I did as he told the stewardesses to get out of the picture. Back at my seat I noticed the thick stack of magazines and added them to the seat beside me. I wasn’t expecting a snack so I was delighted when the juice, tea, muffin, and yogurt made their way onto my tray table. I switched sides of the plane on descent but missed an overhead shot of Ferrari World. Abu Dhabi is beautiful and very spread out between chunks of sand and green lined roads.

the main entrance

the main entrance to Emirates Palace

As we are debarking the stewards change the exit door on us and I’m the first to leave through that door. I have no problem finding the passport station. I wait in line under Other Nationals, GCC (Gulf Coast Countries) and UAE being the other choices. I’m asked where I’m coming from and given a 30 day visa. My bag goes through another x-ray, but they aren’t concerned with my hat or phone. From there, I follow the signs to the exit until I see a sign for taxi with a line inside. The guy says, “Miss, second one to the left.”

fountains at Emirates Palace

fountains at Emirates Palace

I try to get half in, but the first seat is in the middle. I ask how much to get me to Corniche and the driver says under 90 dirham. That will work. Online it said to plan on spending 80. It was so neat. I had to remember to put my seatbelt on, but leaned so far forward. His meter kept telling him to slow down as he was going over the speed limit. I didn’t mind as I wanted to be out seeing things, not stuck in the backseat of a cab. I recognised the Grand Mosque as we passed it in the distance.

steps to Emirates Palace

steps to Emirates Palace

We reached the beach but had to find parking. I wanted him to u-turn at the light and get me closer to the water, but had him turn at the intersection and park at a bus stop. The total was 82.25 and I told him I didn’t want coins back as I handed him a 100 dirham bill, after asking if he had change. He handed me 15 back and was hesitant, trying to sneak in a tip, but I was going to give one anyways. I smiled and he wished me well on my visit.

view of Etihad Towers from the Emirates Palace steps

view of Etihad Towers from the Emirates Palace steps

I walked down to the fence and then remembered there is a family area and other private beaches. I continued on until I found the public beach and made my way to the water, ignoring the sand that was getting in my sandals and burning my toes. The sand changes from white with black specks (burning) to white with pink specks (spectacular). I took my shoes off, lifted my skirt, and played in the water until I saw a jellyfish. It might’ve been dead, but I wasn’t taking chances. I tried to make it back across the sand so my feet could dry, but I wasn’t chancing blisters either.

Sir Blasius looking good in the uniform at Emirates Palace

Sir Blasius looking good in the uniform at Emirates Palace

I continued walking and almost decided to turn towards the tall buildings, but found refuge in grass and shade, drank some water, and continued on until I saw the sign for Etihad Towers. Inside I admired the Lobby Bar in Tower 2, before paying the 75 dirham to take the elevator to the 74th floor for the view and to redeem 50 of that back in food and beverage. I ordered the Red Velvet drink – peach and strawberry with lemon juice and fruit chunks for 29 dirham and four scones (2 chocolate and 2 plain) with strawberry and cream cheese butter at 5 dirham a piece after seeing them while making my round.

Emirates Palace lobby

Emirates Palace lobby

I eat them while enjoying the view and talking to the couple next to me. I asked if my bill was good and was stopped at the elevator door because it wasn’t. I had to pay six dirham in taxes. I try finding my way across the street to Emirates Palace. A construction worker points towards the parking lot and then the light. The sidewalk I was looking at ends. I walk up to the big sign of what not-to-dos and turn around towards the two guards. I’m given a thumbs up and walk in the large gate.

wall decor in Emirates Palace

wall decor in Emirates Palace

There is a sidewalk that winds between the entry and exit roads. There are trees, and a breeze, and a large flag that stops blowing when I look at it. There is a large fountain area in front of the large staircase. There are two girls posing for each other on the steps and I turn around to enjoy the view of the city from this angle. I cross the drop-off road/valet area and admire the uniforms, one waist length and one knee length – but that bellhop wouldn’t let me take his picture.

elaborate staircase in Emirates Palace

elaborate staircase in Emirates Palace

This is supposed to be a seven-star hotel and has been recognised as a 5-star with the plaque outside. You have to pay attention to the details in the walls, ceilings, and floors, and the amenities included in the cost of the room. The doors are tall, the carpets thick, the decorations shiny, the foyer outstanding. There is an ATM that dispenses gold and the white sand beach was imported. There is a beach club on both sides, but what got my attention most, without being a guest, was the live band.

one tonne handmade carpet

one tonne handmade carpet of Emirates Palace

I could hear the music start and quickly made my way to the café area where the piano started, the cello joined, and the flute finished the trio. Past that I admire the details in the staircases, the tapestry on the wall, the art for sale in display cases, the lighting, the shops in the corridor, and the food on offer. Back outside I smell the flowers and watch the gardeners test the fountain in front of the royal entrance.

hallway to the East Wing in Emirates Palace

hallway to the East Wing in Emirates Palace

I text Kathrine when I leave there as to whether I should go to the Marina or City Centre. This guy passes me, honks, and offers a ride. I keep on walking. I decide to use one of the many pedestrian highway underpasses to get me closer to the buildings and farther from the beach. It’s hard to think the city could be considered anything less than five-star when a simple walkway is lined with tiles forming desert scenes. Oil has brought money to this emirate and they don’t mind seeing it shown everywhere.

underpass tile art

underpass mosaic

The guy that honked earlier turned around and parked at a taxi/bus stop. I accept on the way downtown. He wants to know why I like to walk so much when the women from his country want to be dropped off at the air-conditioned door. I don’t have to cover my body in a black robe. He drops me off three blocks later. I was hoping to get further, but this way I can still explore more of the city. He gives me his number and wants to kiss me. I thank him for the ride and get out.

street sign

street sign

I ask a taxi driver what street I’m on and he tells me Third. When I get to the intersection the sign says differently. How am I supposed to tell Kathrine where I’m at with him giving me the wrong directions and the other guy dropping me off at some unknown building near Pearl Plaza Tower. She says she can pick me up in a couple of hours. Well, I’m not going to wait at this park until then. I walk on.

swing selfie

swing selfie

I come to one of the many family parks in the city – greenery, fountains, swings – and sit on one beside a brother and sister with the boy calling for mom as she talks with her friends on the other side of the playscape and a man pushing his boy on the swing. It felt nice to be off my feet and have a breeze cool off my sweaty bits. Leaving the park I’m followed by a yellow kitty. I wouldn’t have minded so much, but he wanted to rub up on the front of my legs either causing me to kick him gently or almost fall on my face.

more city skyline

more city skyline

I find Qasr Al Hosn and get to see the museum for free, though the actual fort is only open for ten days out of the year for the festival. Inside are exhibits showing the history of this building that link directly to the stories of the city and surrounding area. Many rulers called this place home and it was used for other governmental purposes – meetings, as a watchtower, and a protective fort from land and sea advances. It shows the way the fort grew and how it went from being surrounded by sand to being hidden among tall buildings, bright lights, and construction sites. The other main exhibit is, “Lest We Forget.” A project taken on by Michele Bambling to collect family photos from 1950 – 99 to remember where Abu Dhabi got its start.

Lest We Forget polaroids in Qasr Al Hosn museum

Lest We Forget polaroids in Qasr Al Hosn museum

The pictures are set on coffee tables and inside desk drawers so you can recall what it’s like to go through your family history and uncover these gems. A sign on the wall says to read the stories written on the back and I would share with you how one touched my heart if I was able to read any Arabic. I thank the staff on my way out and make it to the corner light before Kathrine texts me. I tell her I will be at Qasr Al Hosn. While waiting at the bus stop near the entrance a guy walks by and offers me some of his Haldirams Namkeen-similar snack and keeps on walking.

Qasr Al Hosn timeline room

Qasr Al Hosn timeline room

Kathrine picks me up at 6pm, so we can go to PJ O’Reilly’s by 7pm. She is vibrant and friendly. We park in front of a hotel and walk down an alley just far enough to keep it hidden from the tourist eye. Inside we meet with seven other coushsurfers – all guys and Firas invites us to his boat tomorrow and Kathrine invites me to eat fried pork. Kathrine shows me her ‘liquor’ license that gives her the right to purchase booze based on her income for at home consumption. We have three Heineken and plenty of popcorn before calling it a night. There was a live band, Sweet Chilli Jam, and happy hour, all night on Mondays, is 21 dirham per beer. 

Sweet Chilli Jam on stage

Sweet Chilli Jam on stage at PJ O’Reilly’s

Kathrine’s house is awesome – living room furniture, Cannondale bike by the door, running numbers framed on the wall, and a view of the city. And I have my own room with washroom. I set the alarm early so I can shower and be ready to go in the morning. She’s going to drop me off at Mina Zayed Port so I can meet up with Caleb for the City Tour. I had an amazing time and look forward to traveling with these people and coming back just to hang out with them. It’s only 10:15, feels early, but I know my feet could use the break. I feel that I will have blisters and sunburns to deal with tomorrow.

the view from the 'couch'

the view from the ‘couch’

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