Joshua Tree National Park Day Trip

Mount San Jacinto

We were going to take this trip with Caleb’s Uncle Ed while he was in town for the last two weeks of April, but ended up staying local that day instead. Ed inspired us to get out and about, regardless of how comfortable the vehicle we ride in may be — a 2019 white Ford Fusion rental (while our’s was in the shop after being rear-ended at a red light) and our 2006 yellow Volkswagen New Beetle (with a new rear bumper that seems to drive worse now).

Anyway, today isn’t about the car. It’s about a day for us, as just us. We both grew up with people all around us all the time — they’re called siblings. Then we joined the navy and had 80+ roommates, then down to three while in A-school, then up to seven after Hurricane Katrina. We’d let a couple stay with us to save money and then we’d move in with another couple to help them save money too. We were able to live without others, not including our amazing dogs, for a majority of the last decade (minus a few transitional months on each coast). We’ve gotten used to doing things our way, not that we don’t love changing things up, especially when we travel, but we didn’t have kids for a reason.

there’s a Zebratail lizard in this photo

This trip isn’t about kids either, which is why we took it without them. We were under the impression that we’d have our own space, not be sharing our room with a large closet of soccer shoes, boys’ collared shirts, camping gear, and loads of toilet paper along with a pantry shelf for snack foods, bottled water, and powdered coffee creamer. We though that we’d have space to store our toiletries but a teenage boy, prepubescent girl, and their little sister have a way of filling up the bathroom with steam, mold, colored sticky spots, toothpaste, tape, paper, scrunchies, etc. so I tote my things in and back out.

Porcupine Wash

This trip isn’t about a lack of personal space either or getting in the kitchen to cook a non-meat meal before the family meal is made that must consist of chicken or beef and on occasion a pork loin with sauerkraut. This is about getting into the great outdoors, seeing the trees, smelling the flowers, and picking the music on the radio — as Ed prefers country or jazz or conversation — which we can all agree is better.

We get a later start in the day than we normally would as the trip was decided on as a way to escape a rainy day in San Diego and get into the sunshine that Joshua Tree had to offer. We put on shorts and 15 SPF, grabbed some bananas and pistachios, lots of water and some caffeine and hit the road. It’s amazing the immediate shift in mood when getting back to something that the last year has deprived us of. Caleb isn’t even supposed to be on this trip because it’s considered unnecessary travel (where he could pick up Covid and deliver it to his current command), which unlike his last hasn’t had to be locked down multiple times for failure to follow instruction — the only rules nature follows are its own.

Cholla Cactus Garden

As we approach the park we notice the snow-covered peaks of Mount San Jacinto in the distance and the trees in the foreground that appear to be bowing to royalty — I’ll take what I can get, even if that requires over 20 mph winds to accomplish. Caleb and I admire the windmill farm and the massive desert it creates to support wind turbines with broken blades and tops that look burnt. Hearing his mom talk on the phone about work and showers reminds me of conversations with my mom and their relaxing simplicity and of the recent post on my dad’s blog about the most difficult phone call of his life which was already six years ago. 

Joshua Trees

Time is like the wind, you can only see its effects, sometimes barely a breeze and other times a blistering barrage, such is the ebb and flow of life and finding the peace between the daily dullness and the moments that memories are made of. I drive and wonder about the possibilities of breathing the same air twice in a lifetime, but science teaches me that everything is constantly growing and dying simultaneously and the chances of two particles reuniting are infinitesimal but the effects those atoms have on us can last a lifetime; such are the influences of a parent upon a child. 

The sound of a mother’s voice disappears as quickly as the highway traffic to get to the south entrance and that’s when the windows come down and the wind fills my hair as a smile crosses my face. Caleb looks at me as his phone starts to lose signal and though their is negativity in the world, there is only positivity surrounding us now. The desert is as dry as we remember and traffic is light though camping is full. We arrive without our first mini national park passport book that we bought in 2008 or 09, Caleb’s children’s version for notes from the rangers, or my newer binder version that we got once the southeast portion was full with plans to go back and fill the rest. 

on Ryan Mountain trail

Caleb grabs a map, I put a stamp in it, and we’re off to Porcupine Wash to explore roughly 2.5 miles of the Colorado Desert in the heat of the day, which at 100*F isn’t anything we can’t handle in our shorts-clad legs and sunscreen-covered faces. This is a wilderness backpacking area and we realize that at our turn around point when we don’t know which way to go, except back the way we came, and our water is at half remaining. The desert is full of subtle colors and signs of life and we’re lucky enough to spot a couple of Zebratail lizards scurrying across the hot sand; though they prefer to keep their camouflaged distance and I didn’t bring my zoom lens. 

We left behind a few people trying to brave the poorly unmarked path (which I have nothing against) and it was just us and nature, truly two of our favorite things. We appreciate more each day the solitude and selfishness we’re allowed since we didn’t invite kids to join us for the rest of our lives and even as we look to the future, we don’t see dogs in it anytime soon because Sparky and Piggy were perfect traveling companions and we’re still ok with them living on in our memories with no need to adopt a distraction puppy because they don’t keep that cute breath forever. 

scrub jay on Mojave yucca

Anyway, so there we are, reveling in each other’s sweaty musk, holding a warm and moist hand as we listen to our feet patter over and through the grains of mountains past and feel them climb into our shoes because of course I have ventilation in the toes of mine that are perfect for this situation. Caleb’s just glad that I upgraded from flip-flops or flats which I find just as worthy on trails not covered in snow. I’m sure that’s just my youth speaking for me as my joints start to age and lose flexibility I will need more stable footwear to keep me in the outdoors for the decades to come. 

Back on the road and we make the touristy stop along the route at Cholla Cactus Garden. Last time we were here we got to witness someone being attacked by a cacti for getting off the clearly marked path. I realize for some people that the access they’re allowed now will never be enough; they feel the need to go further and faster through life than others to make some unknown claim for their “friends and followers”. So this time we get to see a high-school-aged girl pretending to airplane over a cacti while her friend films on the other side and a woman having a full conversation with another cacti, complete with hand signals. 

going up Ryan Mountain

Ignoring the idiots, we continue to appreciate the minor details showing us the cycles of life and death as the Earth struggles with its most obnoxious of predators — humans. It’s no wonder Caleb and I enjoy coming to places like this that show us a percentage of the beauty that our ancestors saw as threatening and a way to feed their families, such as other countries’ citizens continue to destroy their parks to clear land for cattle, cocoa, cotton, etc. to continue to do the same. Past this stop and we’re entering the Mojave Desert. 

panoramic views

We’ve traveled 36 miles north into the park before the split — one to the west entrance and the other to the north entrance. We’ll go right and park at Ryan Mountain. There are more trees and boulders on this side of the drive and a beautiful scrub jay watching us from a Mojave yucca and a Black-throated sparrow eyeing us from the stone steps as we ascend half the trail. We’re not worried about finishing before sunset as much as we realize we’re down to 40oz of water and Caleb still has to work in the morning. We’re roughly three hours from home without interruption and we already know we’ll be stopping at Twentynine Palms Marine base, or MCAGCC, to refill the car with gas. 

Black-throated sparrow

The trail has three other couples dispersed evenly — one that we pass bouldering, another sitting on some rocks, and the last that are ahead of us as the trail winds around the side of the mountain before the summit. We take in the panoramic views and the pops of pink and red along the route that stand out in a vista of browns, greens, and yellows before passing another couple on the return to the car. Our first stateside national park visit in 20 months went well and we have plans to do it again soon. 

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Three Days in One

Friday morning starts with a subway ride to Manhattan (man spills his malt beverage twice) and a walk through Washington Square Park (man offers us smoke and pills) to Crop Circle so I can try a preserved veg guokui (crispy stuffed flatbread). Farid will get a bite from Mamoun’s Falafel across the street. We stop later for something else to eat, and this lady tries to sugar scrub my hands in hot water (usually something I would enjoy), but “they’re too cold and it will hurt” was my response.

She’s not one to quit easily and tries another approach: the owner has traveled 12 hours to bring this product to me and has recovered from cancer. We have another lady rush her kids past us because we didn’t have our masks on (outside, which was allowed with distancing), and glared at us while she did so. We stop at the grocery store on the way home and have a pre-dinner snack at 645 pm. I’m already tired, but I’ll make it another two hours before I go to bed.

Sheela and Farid

Farid tries to wake me a couple of hours later, hoping a nap had helped, but the jetlag has me motionless. I’m up in the dark and go back to sleep. We walk to a late breakfast at Nick + Sons Bakery, and it’s 30°F out. I get a powdered sugar cinnamon roll (soft and light with a crisp top), a cherry chai danish, and a chocolate croissant. I could see limiting myself to a one-item limit per visit if I lived so close to sweet and savory carbs with a changing menu.

We watched part of Farewell Amor, a Portuguese film about an Angolan man with a girlfriend until his wife and daughter join him in NYC, some 17 years later. We meet up with Sheela, a local friend who looks like Jameela Jamil, and walk to the park for cider before going to her place for cheese, wine, and the movie, White Tiger. A Hindi film, it focuses on a poor Indian driver who becomes an entrepreneur. We leave there for a slice (cabbage, kale, potato for me) of pie from Best Pizza on our way to a Zoom dance party that will carry into the morning.

I had enough coffee and matcha to keep me awake until my ride arrived an hour after Farid went to sleep. This would get me to the airport on my way back to San Diego faster and easier than taking the trains in the dark. The airline is garbage, and the plane shakes a lot, and I wasn’t expecting the second round of snacks, so that was nice. I’ll make my bed after Fallon and her daughter, Brooke, pick me up, and be the first one to sleep.

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Caffeine, Coffee, Cuppa

I’m up early, so I’ll join Farid’s roommate, Eliot, in the kitchen for some caffeine and conversation. When Farid wakes up, he makes us breakfast and more coffee. We have no set plans, just to get out and see the city. We stopped for a hot cuppa from Variety Coffee and took a break in the nearby park after exploring for two hours. Father Studzinski Square is nearby to honor a pastor who served this community for over 19 years.

There is more architectural history in this city than we have time for, but a few buildings stand out. The Woolworth Building, nicknamed the Cathedral of Commerce, which opened in 1913 and maintained the title of the tallest building until 1929, the one with no windows that opened in 1974 and is still used today by AT&T, and the elaborate honeycomb-like 80-landing viewing platform for tourists called the Vessel that opened in 2019.

To get a closer view of some of these buildings, we took the East River ferry to Manhattan and returned hours later via the Brooklyn Bridge, on foot. The bridge was opened in 1883 after 14 years of construction. Just a week after opening, with over 150,000 pedestrians (not Barnum’s 21 elephants), a stampede broke out and twelve people were trampled to death. The cables are made of 19 strands that consist of 278 spun wires. These are bolted to eyebars that are encased in a 23-ton anchor plate.

King Nyani, the largest bronze gorilla on the planet, holding Farid

Cable cars would take people over for 5 cents vs one cent to walk across. In 1907, sixty trains were crossing per hour. The pedestrian toll was repealed in 1891 and roadway tolls by 1911. Legend has it that George Parker sold this bridge at least twice a week, once for $50,000, to new immigrants with money to invest, until their toll booths were shut down by the police. George spent the last eight years of his life in Sing Sing Prison. In 1950, the 2 three-lane roadways replaced the trolley tracks.

Brooklyn Bridge

We have a burger around 3pm after walking the High Line (a rail-trail project created in 2009), shower when we get home, and Farid will make us spicy pasta to go with a documentary-filled evening about octopuses and Rajasthan Gypsies.

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Welcome Back to NYC

Williamsburg Bridge from Brooklyn

I’m in a taxi on my way to Bahrain International Airport on a Tuesday afternoon. The seatbelt doesn’t work, and the driver is on a call. Once there, I get to update my “expired” visa so I can go through passport control. Some masks have been released upon takeoff, and I can hear someone recycling food into a bag. Food service is immediate upon ascent, but no options, so I’ll be eating chicken. We land in Dubai.

I find a bunch of lounge chairs up the stairs and through security, but one lady is bent on enforcing the every-other-chair rule while people try to find a place to rest until their 3am flights. I’m reading and listening to “Rain Rain Go Away” and other songs so a mom can entertain her toddler and older sister. I have a silly thought about paying for a room, but I’m not spending $184 for three hours.

I’ll sleep uncomfortably in different chairs until the Emirates boarding process starts on Wednesday morning. I am printed a new boarding pass and wonder why the staff seem so concerned with passengers taking their phones out – they mean the plurality that some are carrying – as I see a person with three phones and two iPads. I get an hour nap in the row to myself and awaken to drinks and breakfast in the cabin, and snowy mountains out below.

I’ll stretch while waiting for the loo and ask a crew member for a croissant. I get three with some more fruit, too. I go back to sleep for a couple of hours and upon waking, plan on repeating the steps above. I forgot that my mask had come loose, so I’d taken it off (I’ve never slept in one before), so I didn’t think to put it on to get up until the awkward looks sent me back to my seat. I ask for another sparkling water to go with my tasty tofu and hard chickpeas and receive two.

I’ll take another nap, play some new plane games, and though my eyes burn, I’m done sleeping. I brushed my teeth as the residue was disturbing. I want the type of mirror in the loo as it allows spots to be wiped away with ease. I go for a coffee and find the chocolate stash, along with other snacks and drinks, left out to limit contact between crew and customers. I watch the skycam as it offers peeks through the clouds that would otherwise go unnoticed. We land in NYC.

I waited about thirty minutes for my luggage, which seems to be the average. There are reusable plastic bags available for protection. I fill out another form and then go to the Skytrain. At Howard Beach Station, I pay $11.50 and am confused about how to continue once through the turnstile doors until a security guard tells me to go through the gate. It’s windy on my two-minute wait on the A-line that will connect me at Broadway Junction to Hewes St., where I’ll meet Farid.

“Of all that breathes and crawls across the earth, nothing is feebler than man.”

I haven’t been in New York in years and don’t think I’ve ever been without Caleb. This ride is a little bumpy with rough starts. I’m feeling spoiled after the smooth landing and great services on the plane. There’s nothing like rushing to get to the proper platform (way faster here than in London) and being greeted by the smell of weed and a man begging on the train. We’ll walk to the water and get wine and tacos to eat at home for WWW (Wine and Weed on Wednesday).

We are joined by Shanta and her husband from Romania, and another friend, Shahanna, who will stay about two hours. I’m getting ready for bed about twenty minutes after they leave so I can be asleep before tomorrow.

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Bye, Bye, Bahrain

We would spend the last few days of the year walking around various areas of the island — some here before Caleb’s first visit in 2004 and others that were made after we left in 2016. This country is constantly a work-in-progress, some buildings leaving you to wonder if they are being built up or torn down. Here are a few of the pictures I took.

sunrise on the bridge

shopping and reading

The House of Coffee, Muharraq

outside and inside views of our staycation …

… chosen for a tub we can both lay in

sunset views

a roundabout on Reef Island

Coral Bay — kitties, water for sale, skyscrapers

Busaiteen Beach Walkway

The Park @ Bahrain Bay

a popular place to feed the birds

sun, shade, and watering cans

built with centuries between them

ready to refill

We spent a few days exploring cemeteries and realized we had missed out previously on a quiet place to explore on such a busy island (prior to the Covid Crisis). The map doesn’t do the size of these places justice as we walked the perimeter and crisscrossed through an area neither of us had thought to go, even though we’d been to the Delmun Burial Mounds and have traveled to other memorial sights in various countries.

We will depart the island next month with no idea on our expected return date, if the Navy shall grant us that option with this abrupt change in plans, as we hadn’t thought about going back last time we left except for the income increase, proximity to warm diving locations, and ability for me to travel to so many countries without a day’s long flight, literally. Caleb wasn’t able to leave the island in 2020 for two reasons: Captain Tom is a workaholic when he can avoid his wife and then Covid came in to restrict the military making fun travel illegal and work travel difficult — and almost impossible to navigate with people who have trouble working in a supervised office not being held responsible for the same duties at home.

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