More Than Potatoes

Lewis and Clark Highway

Thursday morning has us driving along the Columbia River, with Washington trees and a railroad around us and Oregon across the water. Caleb points out that we will be hiking over the Bridge of the Gods on foot in a few months while on the PCT. Men-packed boats are on our left before Tunnel 1, while their trucks and trailers line the roadside on the right.

It appears to be a parade at the sight of so many watercraft, but the men are probably sharing a dry spot while they catch a meal or a paycheck. It’s a beautiful morning, one that’s great for spending time with friends or sharing pictures with them from across the country. It’s nice to have people check in with us and send dog photos that are always welcome.

I can see Mount Rainier in the distance, and from the lookout point for the B-Reactor, I feel just as close. At the visitor center for this third of the Manhattan Project trifecta (the other two locations being in New Mexico and Tennessee), we learn that the museum is on a tour-only basis, which is currently not available due to the remodeling process. There are some artifacts and photos on the wall in the theater.

I underestimated the size of this operation in every manner possible. The camp of Hanford was the largest voting precinct in the US, with the world’s largest trailer court among other housing options of residents who consumed 8,000 pounds of coffee and 30,000 donuts daily, along with meals that were planned out two months in advance so enough ingredients could be supplied to feed 50,000 workers.

The first plutonium reactor was built in just over a year on a plot half the size of Rhode Island. Now, after decades of use, Hanford is dealing with the safe dumping of radioactive waste into a new landfill and using the 12 billion dollar glassification factory to contain leaking underground containers, or at least half of them. The government and its military have a way of getting people to go where they want, especially during wartime.

Following the pictures down the hall, I noticed some large arrowhead plaques on the wall in an office, parting gifts from White Sands, Chamizal, and the Grand Tetons for the woman working behind the desk. I hope the park system is better at name spelling than the Navy, but we hear from another ranger that they can get the dates wrong. I feel these are the little important details that make someone want to display their memorabilia proudly.

Whitman Mission

This park is currently borrowing space at Xenophile Books, just two streets back, for their gift shop. We won’t find stickers to add to our growing collection, but after looking at a room dedicated to the science, engineering, and politics that went into this war project, we find sci-fi collectibles. One of the guys wearing an “I read banned books” shirt will give us a tour.

He starts with the pricy collection in the back, meaning first edition or signed copies, so there’s a range of old and new on the shelves. Next is the clarification between porn – what young women read and sleeze – what guys who live in their mom’s basement would read if they didn’t prefer video. There are books that would just look good on display and the updated childhood favorites (because not every kid born after the year 2000 knows what a telegram or negro is).

near Pomeroy, WA

It’s at this point that Caleb and I split up. We’ve been in here for almost an hour, and though I would love to take the free player piano (to make more room for books in here), we don’t have the time or space. I told the guy I’d come back for it, whether it was painted bright pink or not. Whitman Mission is entertaining two tour buses of kids and their parents, dressed for the early 1800s time period, for lunch when we arrive.

Their young and high-pitched voices will fill the Walla Walla Valley and Monument Hill during our visit. We were last here 13 years ago, and preserved places are worth visiting at least twice. Caleb is able to use that post to find the brewery where we got the yellow hot sauce and pickled veggies last time, too, Riverport Brewing. It’s recently under new ownership and had its soft opening the day before.

Riverport Brewing

Neil only comes on Friday, usually after 2 pm. until closing, so we won’t see him, but I can talk to a table of his friends, one of whom looks like Danny Devito, for almost an hour while Caleb makes a friend amongst the four cyclists sitting outside. I joined Caleb and Bob in time for a dinner recommendation and an invitation to stay the night.

We accepted both. Dinner was at Hogan’s, where we met another guy who moved here from Kalispell, MT, to escape the cold weather. I accidentally did part of an old regular’s crossword puzzle, thinking it had been left at the bar. I tried a Cold Smoke from Kettle House with my falafel burger, which was delicious. I called Bob after our meal, as agreed, and drove into Idaho. We get to meet Gary, the cat named after her brother.

Bob is full of stories, recommendations, and kindness. He leads an active and inspiring life. I wish we could meet more people like him and surround ourselves with big hearts, open minds, and grateful souls. We surprise him when we’re ready for bed, a few hours later, as he thinks we’ll sleep until after he leaves in the morning.

It’s almost as if Bob was expecting us. He told me he wants to start offering his place on Warm Showers, a service for fellow cyclists. There are plenty of blankets and towels, and his impressive home is clean and comes with a fireplace, a large backyard, and a comfy bed. We joined him in the morning for coffee and an English muffin before going to Nez Perce.

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There’s Snow on the Mountain

A benefit of hiking and camping without a car will be not having to wonder if it will continue to function as needed, though I suppose we will be thinking about the abilities of our bodies more often. We broke down camp and thought we were ready, but our vehicle had other plans. Luckily for us, we didn’t have to wait a minimum of two hours for insurance to show up since I was able to find a man with jumper cables and a battery in the park.

toy soldiers cup lichen

He was the only other person awake besides the couple who had already headed to the lake with their boat. He’s been coming here for years and tells me how his daughters used to play on the amphitheater stage. I’m guessing that as teenagers now, they don’t want to spend as much time with dad in the great outdoors. I’m grateful he’s here, and the car starts immediately.

I get in the driver’s seat, and the emergency parking brake light is flashing. The dash screen tells me to turn the brake on and off, and Caleb, the mechanic, tells me to restart the car, but our morning hero is already back through the trees so I suggest we find a garage before getting stuck. We get checked in, and they’ll install for free, so we wait the fifteen minutes and get replacement wiper blades, too.

Kautz Trail

We had our windshield replaced in mid-March and bought new wipers then, but one started to skip, and recently, the other leaves a large streak. We had the windshield replaced via warranty a few days ago, so I guess we should get new wipers… again. Not only this, Caleb notices our mail getting delivered to Florida after we “changed” our address a week ago.

It turns out the postal clerk didn’t do his job, and since we already updated our address everywhere else, Caleb isn’t able to verify his identity online (still need to go in-person now either way), so we find an open office where we’re told we should receive a confirmation email, and we do. It’s just now the mail we were expecting before the hike will have to join us on trail or wait until the winter holidays.

We’ve got breakfast in the car but need a moment to take in the shitty start to our morning (even though we know it could be worse), and we want to reset our moods. We settle on Jim Bob’s Chuck Wagon, a place that gives me a concession stand vibe, but that honors its regulars with painted chairs in their memory. We get a quick breakfast, and I already feel better.

Six miles before Mount Rainier National Park, there are signs asking drivers not to block driveways and intersections while they wait to enter the park. There is no line today, and the weather has allowed part of the park roads to open with a warning of ice possible, which I find acceptable. We stopped at Kautz Trail to take in the rich and wet environment. This is what I expected at Olympic, but the park must be in its dry season… just after snow melt.

It’s a good thing we spend so much time on one of these lower elevation trails, as we are in for a treat. We have a look around the Lingmore Museum, which is going through a renovation, and make our way towards Paradise Inn. The temperature drops 20°F and is actively snowing when we reach the two-story building. Yes, we stopped along the way to see the mountains and many waterfalls.

We see three black-tailed deer and have to tell a guy to stop feeding the beautiful blue birds and their female companions because it’s illegal to do so in the park. I should have told him that if he doesn’t think the animals have enough to eat, he can donate money or speak to his representative to reserve more land for them to have available. There’s pricey (given the delivery route) food inside, and we decide on peach cobbler in a bag.

Fort Vancouver

It’s trail food, but something we haven’t tried yet, and it’s delicious while looking at this glacier-swept park covered in clouds and gusts of wind. I’m able to cruise all but a half mile down and out of the park, but no more deer shall we see. Fort Vancouver is southwest of here and close to the big city limits. I was hoping for an hour and a half of discovery, but I would take the 17 minutes left to see inside any buildings as the grounds stay open.

We park outside the gate and power lunge ourselves over the grassy expanse. The fort has a lovely view and some interesting details. The post surgeon also worked as the medicine dispenser for two dozen other forts, managed the Indian Trade Shop, issued provisions to the kitchen, and rations to the 200 employees. He recorded the weather, sent specimens to Great Britain, and managed the library.

view from the Bastion

Inside the Bastion, we learn that the fort was built in 1829, and the Hudson’s Bay Company was less concerned with the local Native Americans population that they had drastically reduced with malaria than they were Oregon Trail settlers. This still wasn’t enough to motivate them to build a defense mechanism greater than the fort walls until 1844, when they were unable to return a gun salute from a British ship.

Also, inside the three-floored structure are just two of the many state park representatives who meet annually at different parks to discuss the state of things and make plans for the future. I let them know that it will have to do to sacrifice part of the parks to raise awareness, like a whale in a zoo, so that people will care at least a little bit. The guy from Alaska likes my analogy.

Columbia River

We are able to slip into another building, but as we admire the modern bright blue walls, a ranger has arrived to inform us that closing time is now. We thank him and see our way to the gate, just as the blacksmith and another fort worker are leaving for the day. Through the garden with pansies and radishes and across the field with the bush-like tree-home in the middle, complete with two bags of food and a pair of shoes.

We stopped early today at Beacon Rock so I could make dinner while Caleb set up the bedroom. Last night, the ramen was too spicy. Tonight’s version came with cheese powder, and only some of the spicy and oily sauce that coats our pots, spoons, and lips with a red-orange tinge of tastiness. With the evidence rinsed away, we are free to entertain ourselves. A spider attempts to invite himself, and we make haste into the tent.

spicy noods

My pillow was found to have a hole in it last night. We patched it, but it still slowly drained under my head, so Caleb filled it with clothes and traded me for the night. The gesture is sweet, but his cover could’ve had the drool washed off first, though that would leave it wet and cold, things we don’t invite into our sleeping chamber.

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Staying with Family

between Big Timber and Bozeman

We start Tuesday morning in a cold and gray Hardin and stop in Big Timber to see Caleb’s mom. We met her at Lions Club Park, so I’m not dealing with a trailer in a driveway, and walked the perimeter, seeing a bunny and stepping in icy grass before walking to the IGA (local grocery store) for a 45-minute visit.

Our next stop will be in Bozeman, near Montana State University at the American Computer and Robotics Museum. We’re given a short tour of the first two exhibit rooms by Ryan, who is thrilled about their collection, some first editions, signed originals, and pieces/parts made by their founding creators to honor their place in the timeline of technology advancement.

Grant-Kohrs

Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site is only open for another hour when we get there. The ranger is holding a cat, a required part of the park, to maintain the accuracy of details. We say hello to the fuzzy feline, walk the perimeter and watch the deer, cross the river, and pass the hay elevator (Beaverside Haystacker) as we approach the home and barn area.

There is a calf, still timid of people, a garage with an impressive wagon collection, and a beautiful view of the mountains. With the help of another ranger, we find the return to the exit and realize we will have to come back when we have time to see more and take a guided tour of the residence. We skipped (or missed) the stops in Billings, so we got to Caleb’s sister’s house in Missoula a half day early.

view from the ranch house

I help unpack the boxes from the trailer and then go for a walk as I’m feeling overwhelmed by one dog barking and another whining. They will calm down as the evening does. I help chop veggies for corn chowder, and Jessi makes cheese and parsley biscuits while the kids hang out sometimes with us or in their rooms or outside with the chickens. Full of food and conversation, we make our way upstairs to the guest room.

Wednesday morning is coffee with Jake, printing necessary documents with Jessi’s help, and then running around town to get things in order before the hike. I got the zip code wrong on the change-of-address form, so we’ll see how that goes. I usually do it online, but it’s nice to do things in person in a town that feels small and has great customer service.

backyard swing in Missoula

We’ll get over 350 ft. of elevation on our 2.5-mile hike in Patti Canyon with Jessi before going back to the house. We repacked the car, finished emptying the trailer, and read while Jessi napped before her night shift. We make crepes with the kids, Caleb attempting a smiley face, and top them with lemon curd and Nutella, among the options available. Jake gets home late, but we’re in bed early.

We get in the car Thursday morning to finish the drive west and notice an “S” crack in the windshield, a stress fracture from the replacement done two months ago. Caleb will schedule us an appointment for Friday afternoon in Everett near his uncle’s place. We pass into Pacific Time as we cross into Idaho and walk an OHV road between blocks of sun and shade to stretch our legs and possibly see elk poo.

huckleberry milkshake in St. Regis

Washington state has some of its farm crops labeled (as seen from the road), especially the alfalfa, and a field of timothy grass, an abundant perennial grass native to most of Europe, of which I didn’t know the name. Of all the plants, these types seem to get the least of my attention. We need to get out of the car again, and Suncadia Resort in Cle Elum has a park that mentions having space for parking a trailer.

We walk over to Dawson Park and along part of the No. 9 Mine Walking Tour that explores the remnants of the most extensive coalfields in the state. It produced approximately 64 million tons of coal that powered steam ships and locomotives until 1963, ending the Northern Pacific Railway’s 77-year-long operation in Kittitas County.

No. 9 Mine Walking Tour

We stopped at Thai and Taps in Snohomish for dinner because we decided to drive through (plans of the original itinerary) to Oak Harbor and would be driving into sunset for the first time on this trip. We bring our bags in and get cozy, knowing we have a few days with Uncle Ed before we’re back on the road and taking the scenic route to Missoula.

Friday is a slow morning with coffee, watching the birds in the backyard, and a squirrel named Stubby. The afternoon is spent in Everett getting our windshield replaced while Ed keeps us company, and Aunt Lorraine stays home to make us chicken and dumplings that are delicious.

a house in Snohomish

Saturday finds us at Windjammer Park with Lorraine on her two-mile path that she incorporates into her morning walk options on the island. There is plenty of driftwood, loud seagulls, broken purple shells, gusts of wind, and two shy boxers on a walk, too. The old windmill is no more as the facilities have been upgraded.

Ed is making us waffles as we walk in the door. I could get used to being closer to family who keeps me moving, talking, and eating. Ed will stay and grill meat for the family’s late lunch we have planned at 3 pm, while Caleb and I walk over to his Aunt Jamie’s to talk with her and husband Kevin, and pet Zoey, their shih-tzu, and just one of their four dogs.

a dragonfly on Ed’s shed

She will bring me a little squeaky ball to throw for a while, and then show me her polka dot slipper toy. Back at the house, I get to meet Jamie’s oldest son, Donald (maybe 30 years old), and his girlfriend of four years, Brandie. He’s a welder, and she’s a diesel mechanic. He asked her, “Can I get your number so I can send you memes?”

The eight of us will move from a circle of chairs in the sun to around the fire until the 99% illuminated moon is high over the trees. We mostly talk about military life with 84 years among five of us, then travel, and good times spent in the woods. The latest night yet, but we’re making memories.

Deception Pass

Sunday is Mother’s Day, so while the moms spend the day with one of their sons each, we will explore the hills of Deception Pass. We see groups of Chrysomelinae (broad-bodied leaf beetle) congregating on some perennial herbs as we work up a sweat over varying terrain. We have moments of solitude, as most other spectators have gathered on the beach to watch the water eddy from a more eye-level view.

We return to the house, let the rain pass, and then walk the neighborhood. I cuddle on the couch with a white fluffy blanket, and after reading for a while with just the sound of the clock in the kitchen, I remember that I haven’t written in a few days, and have some pictures to share.

broad-bodied leaf beetle
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Driving the Width of Two South Dakotas

Big Badlands Overlook

Apparently, I looked the part as the hotel clerk commented as much when we arrived around 6 pm. But I’m getting ahead of myself. We started in Kennebec, South Dakota, this morning, just minutes behind the sun, clocking in for its short shift here. I didn’t get much reading done last night, but it was the first time on the trip. I must finish the book before the hike as I now debate bringing it.

moccasins in museum

Some hiker opinions state that newbies have time to read because they’re still getting their trail legs. After that, it’s just more walking (and writing for me); unless my dad is reading this, in which case there will be no words notating my daily snacks and mileage. And definitely, no pictures. The day greets us with yellow and green rolling hills and surprises us with varying-sized groups of antelope.

I point them out every time. The first four are seen staring at a group (part of a herd) of cows who are returning the long looks. I know this can’t be their introductory encounter, but weirder things have happened, and either way, I think it’s adorable. We pass into Mountain Time, which gives us another hour to continue our drive west.

We come into Badlands National Park from the NE entrance and remember the time we camped here and woke up to snow in our tent. We went and bought snow chains and returned so we could see the park in daylight. Now, we gawk at the scenery before us while I chomp away at breakfast. I could get used to this, minus the trailer, and Caleb is already making plans to come back.

This is one of the many reasons our relationship is so strong. We love a lot of the same things, and Caleb makes sure to feed me first. There are plenty of Western Meadowlarks making use of their surroundings, as is the tiny Common millipede that crawls through boulders (pebbles to us humans). I’m on the lookout for deer. I remember seeing a herd last time, but we are in luck today.

We had been discussing wagon travel on the way to the park, wondering what this landscape was to them. Turns out, it was a real struggle to find a passage through, and wealthier homesteaders in the 1920s packed a shovel to dig their Model Ts out of wet weather conditions. Only one viewing area from the part of the park we covered wasn’t trailer-friendly. We still had to limit our stops, or we would easily spend the day here.

Next to a large pull-out, a bison is sitting on the grass until I pull up and pet him. Just kidding, please do not do that or put them in your trailer. They are just fine being photographed from your car as you can’t remember how far away you’re supposed to be, but you feel too close already. The car behind us was lucky enough to have him walk across the road in front of their car.

entrance to Petrified Forest

One bison was going to join the other two. There are more scattered across the park, but without my zoom lens, I wouldn’t get to see them as closely. The visitor center showed people flying bighorn sheep in from Colorado. The park can accommodate up to 300, and we got to meet two of them, one named C3, so we assume its partner was named PO after the famous humanoid robot. Seeing one is rare, so seeing two is spectacular.

I was able to stop on the road twice so we could watch and listen to the prairie dogs bounce and bark among their burrows. The Yellow Mounds are windy, and the mud is like gravel, so it’s easier to ascend and faster to fall. The bird calls echo, and the colors radiate, but the resupply boxes won’t deliver themselves. We’re out of the park too soon.

selenite rose

Part of me agrees that parks should have no development at all or only be partially accessible by shuttle, but I realize how limiting that is and that it would have made today’s visit impossible. Everyone should have a chance to explore nature and access its beauty when they have the time. I appreciate still being able to feel like the only ones here as other parks have lotteries and lines, which dulls the enjoyment, or at least delays it.

We’ve been to Mount Rushmore twice, so we’ve been near Wall, South Dakota, before, but with the number of billboards a hundred miles away, we know it’s a tourist attraction and an overflow entertainment space for passing bikers during the annual rally. We magically miss that traffic hazard on our random trips across, though I know bikers come from states away to celebrate their hobby, transportation, and lifestyle.

a fallen, petrified tree

We take a quick glance, grab a tray loaded with a week’s worth of sugar on it, and once most of that is gone, we can walk back to the car or possibly push it for a minute. Caleb’s hands are still healing, and oddly, the better-looking scar and mess of dead skin is the more sore of the two. It’s a short drive to our next stop in Piedmont and our first gravel road.

I take the turn slowly and park at the bottom of the hill. There’s a sign that offers rides up the steep 1/4 mile incline, but on our way back down, the kid on the golf cart leaves us in a puff of dust. We need to stretch our legs anyway. Past the Elk Creek Resort is the Petrified Forest of the Black Hills, not to be confused with a similar lot of trees turned to stone in northeast Arizona.

We are handed a laminated map and shown to the theater where the tour starts. After the film, you push on the double doors and squeeze through to the museum full of many beautiful rocks in their ore and -ite forms with a wall of slices so you can get a better look at their back-lit details. Once done oohing over those, step outside and aah at the fresh scent of nature.

We missed stop one (admiring the wrong view), and then, taking our time, we inspected the other 23 marker stops as the last one is seen from a bridge. Some tree parts are in their original location, one even partially excavated, and others were gathered from the forest for viewing along this path. If we had another day, I would have taken the unmapped trail and spent an afternoon stone spotting at 3600 feet.

We had planned on stopping in Sturgis at the Motorcycle Museum and Hall of Fame, but sadly, and also, fortunately, it was closed, and we were on our way through Wyoming, all 20 miles of it. On the other side awaited Montana, full of sheep and antelope. We stayed ahead of the rain clouds for most of the afternoon, but they caught up to us after a stop in Broadus.

We talked with the clerk at a gas station there about incidents on the local roads (meaning any highway in the state), including black ice and deer, and her returning here after 30 years of living in Vegas. It will get down to 43°F as we drive to Hardin, just 120 miles past our planned stop for the night. This should save us a paid night as we will be within reach of family tomorrow.

entrance to Elk Creek Resort

So, I drive us through the rain, and the car slows going up so many hills. Any average mpg gained in SD is lost to the steep climbs, and these are the small ones. Two dogs bound across the road, just like deer would, so I slow as Caleb believes there’s more waiting to ambush us and continue on when I spot them. Perhaps they were doing some off-season hunting of their own.

I circle our long load, not unfamiliar here, around the hotel and park close to the lobby. The clerk greets us by saying how tired we look, thanks. We’re offered access to the mini-fridge with cold drinks and pointed to which side our room is on. I parked on the opposite side, where there are longer spots, and watched a truck pull in and bump the rear of another.

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Honey Sioux Falls Corn

Hitchcock Nature Center

It took me a while to write about yesterday, and I stayed up past bedtime to get it done. I could smell the laundry soap on my towels and pillows, a scent that will be rare once I’m hiking on the PCT for days at a time, finding post offices and businesses willing to hold my resupply boxes of food and send me back to the sweaty wilderness.

Caleb goes out to the car for our hoodies as we forget that it’s no longer hot and humid but a cool 49°F at this latitude. We are leaving at our usual wake time this morning. I had planned a stop at sunrise, but the wildlife area has dirt roads, so we took a minute to get our PCT permits ready to print. It’s exciting to see it with the rules and regulations and a space to count children and livestock traveling with.

Dorothy Pecaut Nature Center

The foggy morning is alluring. I want to sit by the covered picnic tables and watch the sun move the clouds: thick and thin, bright and gray, in low fields and over the road; and be captivated by the bald eagle as it flies about. There is no shoulder-stopping for us as I don’t want to risk the trailer, though it wouldn’t matter. I have this issue every time I travel. I just want to see and do it all, but I know that’s not an option.

I see the car parked in front of a deer that hasn’t been hit multiple times yet, and Caleb confirms it’s because they just collided. I’m sorry for the animal and the inconvenienced people, but as we see a motorcycle going the other way, perhaps it worked out for the best. We debated stopping at Hitchcock Nature Center until we saw the “RV” on the exit sign and turned. I’m getting better at towing, so much so that Caleb thinks I should do it more often.

Falls Park

We follow a path along the road to the multi-layered viewing tower, a bit shaky at the top, and spot a few birds (goldfinch, blue jay) with the viewing binoculars as we listen to the turkeys down below. There are more trails available than I realized, and though we are prepared for multiple days, we don’t have that kind of time today. We get back on the reddish highway, I-29 N, and it has us scooching (my word) and bouncing (Caleb’s choice).

I slow down and switch lanes, but that doesn’t help. We stop at a rest area, but there is nothing we can do to change the road, so it’s back up to speed, at 60 mph, to Dorothy Pecaut Nature Center. The main gate is closed, but the trails are open. It’s a welcome respite until the picture of baby spiders keeps Caleb hiking on in the shade. He has already removed his hoodie, but I will wait until the next stop, at 70°F, to do so.

the falls

We miss the welcome sign for South Dakota, which Caleb has been diligent about ensuring we catch a passing photo of each state, so he’s forced to draw this one in. The speed increases to 80 mph, but I’m maintaining our more fuel-friendly pace, which works out for the 65 mph slowdowns when one lane is closed as I just cruise through. Only one tumbleweed will blow across our path.

Caleb chooses a different entrance for Falls Park, and I have the option to stop behind a row of cars or go across the street to an overflow area and have a space to myself. I had only planned on places to walk, so I hadn’t looked into the history of this place. Drake Polishing Works used the petrified wood from Arizona’s now national park (as of 1962) in the 1880s for table tops and picture frames and sent them down the Big Sioux River.

After the Drake building was abandoned, the stones in the Lower Falls were removed for the hydroelectric plant. Other stones were transported by prisoners and were used to help build their domicile. We climb up to the viewing tower here, too, and the park expands when you can see further. There’s another building here without people around it, so we wander into the Stockyards Ag Experience.

The woman at the desk lets me know she counted 52 visitors yesterday and has ten states colored in on her where-the-tourists-are-from map. We’re glad we could help her add another. John Morrell was the largest employer in South Dakota until 1958 and remained in the top three until 2012, supplying beef, pork, and lamb. The final heifer sale was in 2009 and marked the end of 92 years of service for the Stockyards.

Mitchell, South Dakota

Downstairs, we learn that a bee will take 154 trips from flower to its hive to produce 1 tsp of honey and that cupcakes got their name from cakes made by ingredients measured by the cup-full. The road looks endless, but we have another stop. We’re in luck that the Corn Palace is open today, and we aren’t missing an opportunity to see inside.

This year’s theme is Wonders of the World. The first palace was built in 1892 when the small town of Mitchell had something to prove. A tradition was started, and a replacement was built in 1905 that proved too small for the gathering of farmers to celebrate their harvests. A third palace was completed in 1921. Grains were missing from the decorations during WWII but rejuvenated through the designs of Oscar Howe. 

He would go on to design murals from 1948 to 1971, so there’s a second-floor exhibit dedicated to his craft, which draws some half a million tourists annually. This venue is used for basketball games, performing artists, and dance recitals. The new murals are placed each September using 12 different shades of corn and roughly 325,000 ears, along with rye and sour dock, to complete the image.

The passing view of the Missouri River is beautiful and then we return to being cooked through the windshield; Caleb chose to wear all black. The Inn manager has built his home next to his office, and we can hear his kids while we check in. He lets us know that Sundays aren’t the best for food options and Caleb finds a spot ten miles away – we’re not doing that.

Van’s Custom Culture Competition

Our room comes with a shoe tray as did last night’s. I suppose all the other times we have been through here we were camping. We also have a fly swatter, a recliner (that I’m in), and a pile of rag towels for our convenience. The a/c is aggressively loud, and Caleb says the heater in the bathroom looks like a fire hazard. I think we got a deal.

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