Day Four – There’s Honey in These Hills

Gert and Rachel leave camp at 620 and we’ll be about 15 minutes behind, as usual. I spent the morning drying wet clothes in the hand dryer while the four of us shared the three stalls in the open bathroom. Not everything is dry, but we don’t want to waste the cool part of the day, so we put moist clothes on top and pass two other thru-hikers on our way back to the trail.

There’s a water fountain with a plaque on it but there’s no water. This will be the condition of most of the sources that those who went before us could rely on to keep their pack weight down and their body alive. We have to carry more water. Ravi passed us at 7am and will again at 8am as we passed him having breakfast. This morning is beautiful. I stopped for a ladybug picture as Rachel was telling us how she murdered them on accident as a child on the playground and still feels guilty.

We were going to stop in a bit of shade but a poor bird beat us to it, so we’ll leave it there and continue on to another cool spot on the ground provided by desert bushes. I see a garter snake later, and perhaps he’ll return for free lunch, but I think they prefer their food fresh. There are a lot of parts on the trail where if you don’t look down you will definitely sprain or break something. This is why stretch breaks for the neck, arms, back, and legs are so important.

My watch activity tracker thinks I’m out here on an elliptical since I use my trekking poles to balance over rocks, climb over them, and generally stabilize in the sand and over burrows dug in the trail (some collapse, leaving less foot space). Learning to use the poles is easy, either with the same or opposite foot or both at the same time, but you might step on one, or a bush grabs one, or a rock crevice takes hold.

We pass Ravi again at 10am and are averaging two mph. Little blue butterflies are welcome company as is wind, but not when it threatens to send my hat careening to its death off a cliff. I’m able to turn around quick enough, without falling myself, and stab it with my pole. I put the chin strap on and continue until we find another shade tree at noon. Ravi will pass us again. We all have a planned rendezvous at the Cleveland National Forest so we will see him again soon.

The cloud cover is convenient but the day is still warming up. We’ve stopped at Pioneer Mail Picnic Site to chat with our trail family, nap for an hour on acorn hats with our jackets on, and get our permits stamped and bag tags from a ranger. We refill our water and have dinner before 4pm so we can get another six or seven miles added to our eleven-mile morning. A fellow hiker has hurt her knee and chooses to spend the night.

Past the water source is a hall of fallen rocks and memorials. Later Gert will show us him posing on the concrete barrier wall that is holding the mountain up. The other end is Kwaaymii Point before the trail crosses over a turnaround point for cars. The PCT also travels along roads, sometimes hiding hikers in changing elevations and other times leaving us exposed for drivers’ viewing pleasure.

Pioneer Mail Picnic Site

We get passed by a hiker with a permit tag on his bag that looks like it belongs to a day hiker. I suppose that’s the benefit of being fit enough to power walk up mountains (double our speed), something I was able to do up to Potato Chip Rock once and then catch up to my friend who chose to run down. Perhaps if I hadn’t broken a bone in each foot I would be more willing to take another risk, but an injury would only slow us more.

Gert and Rachel

We had our tent opened between trail and bushes when Gert reminded us about the long walk to the water tomorrow and that both our watches were off on mileage count as we weren’t to the five-tent site as planned, so we’d have room for four tents. We saw two women in a large spot in the sun and assumed we had passed it. We would take another hour and a half to reach sleep for the night, but they saved us a large spot with some privacy.

I attempt to undress and set up my bed at the same time. I’m glad we’re not set on top of an anthill here, and I will think about the other half of my uneaten dinner as I pass out in a mixture of dirt and sweat. I’m accustomed to the late-night zippers and ground crunching as hikers are finding a pee bush or passing by and making use of the moonlight to reach their daily miles. We are only limited by our permits (with PCT thru-hiker discounts) but other travelers have visa restraints.

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Day Three – Not Too Perilous

so many caterpillars

Today will have us leaving camp at 8am, about five minutes behind our trail family, with my body at a 6 out of 10. I see a California kingsnake but the non-venomous ones are usually in a hurry to escape or perhaps don’t care that I want a picture of them and are going about their day. I didn’t feel the same need for the rattler hiding in the bush but I did bother getting a peek at one of them.

morning elevation

We see gophers that destroyed part of the camp roads, caterpillars covering the trail, and a few horny toads sunning themselves on dirt and rocks. There is lots of sand and loose rock on our elevated climb. We were ready for the hot and flat desert, not the stabilizer muscles’ boot camp of the century. We find a beautiful shade tree and share our morning break with ants and caterpillars.

We brush the chunks off ourselves and our packs before becoming one again to limit blister development that we have avoided so far. I’m getting a triangular sunburn between my glove and watch, and my skin disagrees with the constant sweat levels, but otherwise, we are doing well. We hit a patch of trees and a steep decline to a water source. We drop our bags and Caleb makes the short trek and returns with a dirty water bag (that will be filtered) minus its handle.

morning break

We see a gopher snake as our third of the day, which reminds me why I like to be outside so much – more nature, less man-made issues. We stop for an afternoon rest with the scents of pine, skunk, fire, and ass accompanying us, according to Caleb. I agree that dirty trees smell better than dusty people. We’ve partially hiked on loose and uneven rocks before but turned back to give our feet a break. We don’t have that option now.

shade by the water

A woman approaches with her six-year-old horse and dog named Sky, who doesn’t want our sweaty hands on him, but the horse, the shades of butter, doesn’t mind a quick greeting before they, too, get ahead of us. Then the bugs come. Our clothes and tent are treated, so we’ve been lucky so far, but I have one flying with me trying to get into my left eye, and I don’t want them in my mouth as Rachel has encountered.

Great basin gopher snake

We are grateful for the shaded area and take another break in the high heat of the day since we don’t know what’s around the next turn or hill. We have about a mile to go until our planned stop at Mt. Laguna when I start getting snacky. Eric, our first trail angel, will satisfy that need before we reach our spot at the other end of the campground. We join him at a table for two Tillamook ice-cream sandwiches (vanilla and chocolate), two pieces of homemade brownies, a banana, and various electrolyte drink flavors.

sign post

Caleb is thirsty enough to forgive the coconut water. Eric keeps in touch with other angels and the hikers who come by and is able to let us know that Grandpa made it to Boulder Oaks before deciding it was better for him to fly back to Germany. We understand how many don’t make it through the desert. We let him know we’ll send him two more hikers when we catch up to Gert and Rachel who are already clean.

trail magic

While they get pre-dinner treats we will use the $1 shower, thanks to Eric for exchanging my dollar for quarters, and then wash our clothes in the spigot and hang them to dry while we eat dinner and lay in our sleeping bags at 7pm. It’s a bit of work to set up a bedroom at the end of the night, but we’re getting into a routine. Today’s mileage was just ten miles to give our bodies a chance to catch up.

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Day Two – On Mondays, We Hike the PCT

walking into Lake Morena

We twitch and sweat through the night, a result of so much exertion on our bodies that are not used to this level of activity. I’m not sure how long this will last but we aren’t the only ones experiencing it. We are off to Lake Morena as we watch bunnies in the shade. We get full sun at 7am. We refill our water bottles on the RV side of the park and then walk to the PCT reserved site.

We dry our rainfly from condensation while getting more water, having breakfast, and making good use of a bathroom again. I wasn’t expecting this many flush toilets along the trail, but I appreciate them. We see our second “hiker box” which can be any container (tote, bucket, cabinet) full of things deemed no longer worthy of carrying such as sweatpants, uncooked beans, and collapsible water bottles.

trail out of the campground

Ravi says hi as our passing him yesterday made it seem possible to get here last night and now he feels ill. He’ll go into town for wi-fi as we walk into a green desert. We stopped at 11am to rest among the sticks and leaves in the shade because we are now hiker trash and are reassured that everything we have on will be dirty. Gert and Rachel soon come along and invite us to their snack break under the bridge around the corner.

leaving Lake Morena

We’re glad to see Rachel made it through her first day and has now paired up with Gert who plans to look after her (as she’s probably the same age as his two sons). They tell us that they saw Ravi and Grandpa in town. Oh, and if you thought 50 permits a day meant that many people on the trail, you were as mistaken as we were. There are only a few of us so it’s easy for trail angels to keep tabs on hikers too.

on our late morning break

We reach Boulder Oaks Campground at 1p and Rachel finds a hiker box with a thick book and a heavy beer. We take some water and stretch in the shade as they set off ahead. We passed two horseriders and a family with a dog two hours later. We are definitely getting the solitude that we revel in while outside. We reach Cibbets Flat Campground before 530pm and there are a few vans but otherwise empty.

Gert and Rachel on first water crossing

Steve (a man on a holiday weekend with his family going back to the city) tells me that kids are awesome and that I should watch out for lions, tigers, and bears on the trail. It was my trekking poles in one hand that caught his attention as he thought they were for fishing. We struggled to get here but we were determined to feel that cold creek on our feet.

It turns out that water that cleans dirty toes also works on your body and clothes, but I skip giving my hair a rinse as the sun is now behind the hill, and I’m starting to get chilly. We’re standing in our underwear, hanging our wet clothes, when Gert and Rachel join us for a dinner of carbs – noodles, pasta, rice, and quinoa – around the table. We wear our jackets to eat and bother with our tents. It’s too hot, even on a cold morning, after ten minutes on the trail to wear more than sun protection.

we’ve hiked here before

Gert is 53 and a First Lieutenant of the Royal Dutch Army, so very prepared to be here. Rachel teaches soccer to an age range of kids, so she’s got the leg strength and mental fortitude to attempt this too. Gert is one of 28 people with a certain sticker and he gifts one to Rachel to add to her bear can after surviving a second day. We are serenaded into the night by a mom singing John Denver to her toddler until he cries for her to stop.

Rachel is already much faster at setting up her tent. Ravi took a risk by ordering his on eBay and having it shipped to the Green Store, a stop on the shuttle route to camp. We completed another 16 miles and our bodies are feeling it. We agreed to a shorter day tomorrow, so we will sleep in or sleep out (depending on where you’re from).

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Day One – Diamondbacks, Switchbacks, and Sweaty Backs

on mile two of the PCT north

We start the day with peanut butter pancakes and my bag weighing in at 33.65 pounds. We’re told there are camps at 11, 15, 20, and 26 miles; so we have options. We’re the second to leave camp as Venom, who carries his food as a combined powder with a bottle of oil to wash it down, has already left an hour before we woke up with the plan of doubling our mileage for the day. I’m enjoying the trailside clothes, longboard, and plants as I would on any hike.

Bigberry manzanita

Gert is the first to catch up to us, but he won’t be the last to pass us, including two day hikers. Ravi is with Hitchhiker and we see them again when passing our second six-foot rattlesnake of the day; both choosing a loud warning over a swift attack. The trail is thin and precarious in places with lots of plants growing over the trail, but the purple and yellow flowers add beauty to the eyes and nostrils.

around mile 5

We drop our bags on the ground at 1030am and this gives Rachel time to catch up as Graham and Sara are long gone as we take breaks to stretch and take in the views. We’ll soon leave her behind again as her family helped her prep for the length of the trip in one pack so she’s carrying more weight than Caleb, for now. We find a shady spot at 1pm and again at 245pm where we can rest. I’ll have drank 2.5L at this point.

walking into the afternoon

Breakfast was missing protein so we stopped earlier to have our banana cocoa with 16oz of water to keep us fueled and hydrated. We know this desert gets hotter and appreciate the shade and every breeze as it blows. We see Gert and Ravi resting in the shade at 15 miles and should have stopped too, but the shortest break makes me feel renewed to go further.

afternoon views

We make it a mile up scree in the sun after an over ten-hour day and find a spot to sleep. Just as Caleb has the tent out of the bag, Grandpa from Germany shows up asking to share our space. He managed six miles with the amount of water needed to get through this heat which added so much weight. We scoot our tent over and cook our meals so we can all quickly pass out in total warmth.

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Day Zero

subway at Denver International

Where to start… there are so many things that books, blogs, and videos failed to convey to me before this adventure; yet we have hiked sections of it, done our research, and planned as much as possible.

snowy mountains

We flew to San Diego, took the Flyer van to the Old Town Transit station, and the shuttle van with Just Paul as our guide, who would take seven of us to the southern terminus about a half mile from Camp Lockett, where we would spend the night. We checked our bags with tent stakes and carried our bear cans with our lithium battery headlamps.

stop at REI for fuel and stickers!

Our cans were opened at security, and our oxygen absorbers were thoroughly inspected at the bottom. I repacked mine while the TSA agent only emptied half of Caleb’s when he realized it was only dry food as well. On the van we meet Gert and Ravi from the Netherlands (they had never met), Rachel from New Jersey, and Graham and Sara from New York.

me at the southern terminus

The couple goes directly to camp, opting to hike to the terminus in the morning before a 20+ mile day. The rest of us get our pictures there, and then we walk with the others to clap at the border fence (it makes a unique sound) and watch as they attempt to poke a limb through and take a picture. The 6pm campfire talk is two hours long and though not required, we feel obligated to sit through it at the end of a long day.

not pictured – Rachel on Caleb’s right

We listen to the main trail health issues (heat illness, hypothermia, and altitude sickness), hitchhiking protocols (don’t forget your bag), and the importance of maintaining water levels (Don’t die!) throughout from Just Paul, One Speed and Papa Bear who promises us pancakes in the morning. I fall asleep to the sound of barking dogs, people partying at the equestrian center, gunfire in the distance, possibly a loud bat, and some snoring.

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