This nickname, Inis Fáil, means the Island of Destiny. The Tuatha Dé Danann race brought this stone, Lia Fáil, to Ireland, and it’s been used as a coronation stone in the belief of its mythical powers and ability to make noise when a king sits upon it. Legend has it that this is one of the twelve zodiac crystals the Atlantean mages used to amplify the Earth’s energy. It is one of the four treasures (stone, sword, spear, and cauldron) that the Tuatha Dé Danann brought with them and the only one that remains standing on the Hill of Tara.

Dún Na Sí Amenity & Heritage Park

An Irish warrior and demigod, Cú Chulainn, tried to angrily split the stone. He died in 1 AD, and the last king the stone declared was Brian Boru in 1002, credited with ending the Viking invasions of Ireland. The stone has been silent since. All old Irish roads lead to this site where palaces once stood, and now only earthworks endure the patter of boots and hooves. The oldest visible monument, the Mound of the Hostages, built around 3000 BC, was used for 1,500 years to bury human remains. This site is an important connection point between two worlds that maintains its significance today.

We leave Riverview House B&B an hour after sunrise while the sky is bright gray and the bushes a gallimaufry of color. There’s no one in the lounge with two tables, a dining set for four, hotel kitchen amenities with a toaster, and a fireplace next to the bookshelf, with authors Charlotte Bingham and Kingsley Amis among the collection. Our first stop is the success of a road sign that draws our attention to Dún Na Sí Amenity & Heritage Park, even though it’s closed. We park in front of the locked entrance and walk along the sculpture garden, peeking in at a man walking his dog.

It’s at least an hour before we pass the mural of a scene from Gulliver’s Travels on the side of a building that used to have large serving windows. Instead of selling fresh cow’s milk, it appears to be more fitting as a sheep shelter. We’ll see more of Meghann Quinn’s art as we enter the town of Trim. We stopped at Coffee Works Trim for breakfast, which only opened a year ago, and in three days will be giving out 50 free coffees to celebrate. We pass a few uniformed kids on their way to school while we walk towards Trim Castle, the one used in the filming of Braveheart in 1994 that served as the Tower of London inside and the city of York outside.

Mel Gibson was granted the Freedom of Trim in 2010, an honorary position since 1877, in recognition of his service to the town and part of a traditional system. In the 12th to 19th centuries, this gave honorees the right to participate in political and economic life as a full citizen. The year 2010 was also the beginning of the Braveheart 5k, organized by the Trim Athletic Club along the River Boyne. This race also takes place in Sarasota, FL (kilt encouraged), Radford, VA (for American Heart Assc.), Sherman, TX (as part of their Celtic fest), and in Franklin, NC (to honor the film Rob Roy also released in 1995).

Newtown Abbey

The castle, started by Hugh de Lacy in 1173, is the largest and best-preserved Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland, mostly unchanged since the 13th century. It’s closed as we walk by, so we continue to the River Gate (added so boats could avoid the weirs) and the Barbican Gate (an elaborate system to improve security) that guard the castle. Trim was originally a walled town, and only the Sheep Gate survives from the original five that were used as toll and tax stations as people went through. We pass by the Trim Donkey Family animal park, just a few asses spending their time in a corner meadow lot.

River Boyne, as seen from Ireland’s oldest bridge

We cross the River Boyne and follow it east to the Newtown Abbey, also known as the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul. The church was established in 1206 by Simon Rochfort and suppressed in the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1537 by King Henry VIII. Here, the tomb effigies of the Jealous Man and Woman lie, with a sword of state (God-given protection) between Lucas Dillon and his first wife. Over 400 years later, people are still being interred at this site by a field of Kerry Hill sheep that originated in Wales near Newtown. They are raised for meat, but I would collect them for my love of black and white animals.

Cathedral Church of St. Patrick, Trim

Back towards the water, we see a sculpture depicting the Salmon of Knowledge, a fish who ate hazelnuts falling into the Well of Wisdom. He was eaten by a boy who grew up to become the leader of the Fianna, a group of hunters and warriors in the Iron Age and early Middle Ages. This myth is similar to those found in Iceland, Scandinavia, Baltic countries, and across Central and Eastern Europe. The Germanic version replaces the salmon with a serpent, and this special creature is depicted in ruins all over the planet. The myth’s most modern rendition is in a song by Gilla Band released in 2019.

Bective Abbey

Another few feet west brings us to Ireland’s oldest bridge, unaltered and in use since 1393, over 630 years and counting. The average age of bridges in the US is 42, with a lifespan design of 50 years. It’s double that in the UK, though weather and vehicle weight can reduce that time. I’m more impressed with this bridge than I imagined I would be. Millions of people have ensured its success through the centuries, which is rare unless the structure happens to be a temple, mosque, church (the oldest being the Pantheon built in 125 AD), or Acoma Pueblo in New Mexico still inhabited since around 1100 AD.

Hill of Tara

The Cathedral Church of St. Patrick, with its grand exterior and locked but gorgeous interior, will be our last stop in Trim. We visit Bective Abbey, the second Cistercian abbey of Ireland, which became an important monastic settlement after its founding in 1147. Most of what’s left today dates back to the 15th century and was sold to the state in 2012. The site includes a 13th-century church, a 15th-century cloister, and a 16th-century tower. Many historical places have either been added to or built upon (perhaps unknowingly or in a show of power) to maintain the enchantment of the location and preserve the traditions.

In 1386, men of Irish birth were barred from entry, and in 1536, this abbey was dissolved, too. It was converted into a mansion with fireplaces and large stone windows by Andrew Wyse after he purchased the church in 1552. I’m not sure of the Wyse to Wise relationship as my family tree is lacking apples before the birth of my third great-grandfather in 1839. Today, a few people choose to pose, some obnoxiously so, among the walls and windows of this ancient abbey. I wonder what brings the other visitors to this place other than to see beautiful ruins in a field, as there’s not a big car lot, but there’s a sauna and hot tub with a view less than a quarter mile up the road.

If only Caleb had been wearing a robe and carrying his Kindle, he would blend into the surroundings, and we could spend the afternoon reading and sipping imaginary tea. I love books and documentaries about traveling, real and imagined, and their ability to transport me. When getting the chance to explore, it’s watching the places I go come to life historically, in the present, and futuristically. It’s such an explosion that the experience can be overwhelming, not only of how small I am in the totality of things but just how little my existence is in all of time, ever.

Boyne Ramparts Heritage Walk

We make it to the Hill of Tara, an internationally important site, with a few rules — no camping, no fires, and dogs on leads please. The fire and tent poles could damage sensitive archaeological material. We find street parking behind a line of cars. At first sight, it’s just a field, a very green and lumpy one. Upon further investigation, the site begins to take shape. We peek inside the Mound of the Hostages and see the marker from the Battle of 1798, commemorated with a mass grave marker of the 400 rebels who died after having chosen this location for its symbolism of ancient sovereignty.

Between the church (visitor center) and the hill, on a fence, is a sign that warns of the damage being caused by bicycles, team training, climbing on the monuments, and walking in wet and mucky areas. The church is simple on the outside, and it’s the large stained glass window and other small details of stone, wood, and tapestry that catch my eye while exploring the sanctuary. This is just one of Ireland’s six royal sites associated with myths and the transformation of Ireland from paganism to Christianity. The shop next door has Celtic and goddess vibes, a cute children’s sweater that I didn’t fit in (so we got matching Aran styles in different colors that fit), and sampled some turtle juice (Caleb’s drink) in a planet-friendly bottle to go with his tuna and sweet corn sandwich.

Hill of Slane

Ollie, the otter, welcomes us to Boyne Ramparts Heritage Walk. Sadly, we won’t see a live one as they have become rare in Ireland and extinct in much of Europe and are more likely to be spotted around dawn or dusk. This towpath, between a river and canal, runs from Stackallen Bridge to a place too far away to see today. We are promised heritage, beauty, and ruins and are met with cascades, birds, and stinging nettle (respectively, of course).

Besides having roommates with kids and having to look after them sometimes, this experience will be the closest we come to the perseverance required of some parents to keep going even though we’re physically exhausted. Each rest in the car to wipe our blistered noses and cover more countryside gives us just enough energy to even contemplate getting out at the next spot on the list. For us, this would be the Hill of Slane. It’s here, on Easter Saturday in the year 433, that St. Patrick lit a bonfire in protest of King Laoghaire’s pagan festival (bonfire ban) on the Hill of Tara.

The king didn’t convert to Christianity but allowed St. Patrick to preach. Over eleven centuries later, King Henry VIII dissolved a monastery built just 30 years ago and granted the land to Sir Fleming for an annual rent of just one penny. We’re here to see the remnants of Slane Abbey. We park at the bottom of the hill and follow the wide-mowed path to the beautiful stone ruins that now provide a home for ivy-leaved toadflax, a purple-flowered trailing plant native to rocky habitats. We enjoy the weathered walls, worn windows, distant views, and cherished cemetery.

We zigzagged our way, mostly east, through County Meath and now begin our route south for our return to Dublin for our flight tomorrow morning. Balrath Woods, another chance to bask in Ireland’s emerald-ness, is the fifty remaining acres of a once larger estate of mixed broadleaf woodland that was mostly replanted in 1969. This park is part of the NeighbourWood Scheme to plant and develop areas for public access that can be used as outdoor classrooms to learn about different species of plants and animals, various habitats created in woodland, and the importance of proper management.

These woods are home to birds, butterflies, and bunnies, but my favorite feature here is the beguiling beech with an expressive root structure and bright green expansive canopy. Between the Balrath Woods and the Wonderful Barn sits Emerald Park, Ireland’s only theme park (around the Irish potato crisp brand Tayto) and zoo. The park was renamed when the partnership deal ended, but the mascot remains. The park has the island’s only wooden roller coaster, and though they have great rates, about $45 per person, we are not stopping until we get to the corkscrew-shaped grain store.

Balrath Woods

The Barn was built in 1743 with 94 steps of cut limestone to reach the top. Follies are towers or mock ruins built by the wealthy for decorative purposes and to employ the locals during times of famine. This Barn has been referred to as a folly in many books but actually serves a practical purpose while also being a more pleasing addition to the landscape. This 73-foot-high structure was built to avoid a repetition of the flour scarcity that led to hoarding, price gouging, and theft. It consists of five vaulted chambers inside walls over two feet thick and protected from rain by slates on the exterior.

Two dovecotes, for pigeons, were built so the birds could feed off the spilled grain and then become meat (squab) for winter, preferring the birds before they grew their flight wings. The Kildare County Council has been responsible for the site since 2005 and has mended the brick and stone masonry and made extensive roof repairs to the wings. The Barn was placed on the World Monuments List of 100 Most Endangered Monuments in 2006. I see more rabbits here than I have all day. We are nearing the close of our check-in window for Angel’s home on the outskirts of Dublin, with a mostly highway route to the airport.

The Wonderful Barn

I knock on the door upon arrival, and after a few minutes, I knock again. There are cars in the driveway, but no one is around. I call the number listed, and for a moment, the guy who answers seems confused until he realizes I’m a house guest for the night. I’m not sure if it was his daughter from next door who let us in, but she gave us a tour and a heads-up about the long-term renter staying upstairs. It was a good thing she wasn’t home yet, as the front door was tricky to close, and she was able to show us how to keep it that way.

We get back in the car for dinner and drive to The Halfway House. After looking at maps, asking the internet, and searching through photos, I still had no idea where we had dined. The picture time gap led me to believe that we had walked, but no such place fit the description: cozy bar seat with sunlight coming through the stained-glass skylight, making the wooden bar and floor shine (it could also be overhead lighting). There’s a wooden dog statue, a heavy curtain, and some bench seating. They serve club sandwiches and had a buffet around the corner that we weren’t interested in.

I asked Caleb, and he suggested a place outside of walking range, so I went to the credit card statements to confirm. The customer service agent wasn’t able to give me the restaurant’s name for Caleb’s protection, but he did let me know that even though our card number changed recently, I’m still able to pull up two years’ worth of statements (my first attempt only found the recent three months) and there I found our last dinner in Ireland — The Halfway House. I’m not sure why we went there instead of walking to Hartstown House (a double H logo instead of one), but it was nice to have salt and vinegar chips (fries).

I had asked the tenant about a recycling center, but she thought they were too far away. We found one within ten minutes of walking distance and got back €0.50 for our efforts after dinner. Back at the house, we started to wind down as the evening seemed to just be getting started in the backyard. Had I been a day younger and 98% less sick and exhausted, I might have invited myself to the hooley (noisy party) and learned another thing about the local culture. As it was, we read for a bit with the window open and went to sleep by their second or third beer.