Since I landed I was looking for things that Caleb and I could do or that I could entice a friend to join me in doing. Caleb had a Saturday off and we got a ride to the Bahrain National Museum to look at their Dolls of Japan exhibit. It was a nice surprise to see there was an Investing in Culture exhibit and that permanent exhibits had been updated in an attempt to keep the attention of the younger crowd after we paid our 1.005 BD entry fee.
Since we left, Bahrain has introduced a VAT (value-added tax) mostly aimed at expats to help with the government decreasing the subsidies from oil revenues that have historically been spent on Bahrainis to pay their rent, bills, and meat costs. I can understand why the locals would be upset after having been given handouts for so long when the government started asking for 5% on taxable items… back to the museum.
We follow the numbered panels in the foyer to read about the beginning of Bahrain and the construction of the museum and its effects on the country and the region as a collection of a history that has since been built over and expanded to hold more shopping malls, mosques, and three-story villas on what little public beach there used to be. Bahrain is definitely investing in its new sense of culture and building it high.
Bahrain used to be more traditional but even now there is a movement to upgrade the Manama Souk with Wi-Fi so that cell phones will be able to show off its Instagram worthiness within seconds, especially with the facade, signage, and walkway improvements scheduled. Perhaps this will improve businesses in the area by modernizing the shopping experience to match with malls who offer discount apps and geo-tagging for loyalty programs.
I see how change can be difficult for more old-fashioned people used to doing things a certain way, such as when I had to adjust from a 30-foot-long corded phone (a trip and choke hazard with siblings) to a cordless phone that my step-dad could leave outside in the rain — twice — and they weren’t cheap back then. Bahrain may be small and covered in water bottles and cigarette butts, but that’s not stopping this country from trying to compete in the international market.
After detouring through the history of Bahrain we reach The Dolls of Japan: Shapes of Prayers, Embodiments of Love exhibit. We learn that what started out with such traditions as the Hina Matsuri (Girl’s Festival) led to the spread of this art to show the appreciation of time-honored costumes and craft styles with familiar themes of Noh and Kabuki to bring the love of dolls to more people than just little girls.
The festival is held annually in March to showcase the attendants in traditional court dress of the Heian period, 794 to 1185, named after the capital which is now modern Kyōto, at a time when Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism amongst other Chinese influences, upon poetry as well, were popular in Japan. The hour walk back to the house in Al Fateh was nice as we got to appreciate the new pavement (sidewalk) bricks that line many of the roads as Bahrain attempts to become more pedestrian-friendly.
The fall season has different markers depending on the locality but there’s now a wider distribution of early Christmas decorations (and in our case setting up for National Day), pumpkin spice flavored anything and everything (hello San Diego), and that sudden change in temperature (10* F or 5* C) that has people putting on sweaters and coats depending on their comfort level, which for me is shorts.
HALLOWEEN PARTY
playing Junk in the Trunk
I was invited to an Alice in Wonderland themed Halloween party (girls only) which I thought would be a new and exciting experience. It was definitely new and I was the first to arrive (as I’d forgotten the two hours early invite to get others there “on time”), dressed as the tea party, and the three sisters had spent hours doing their makeup to be the Cheshire Cat, White Rabbit, and Alice with a bloody card sticking out of her neck; and Mom was the Queen of Hearts.
I helped with some of the decorations (arrows and rabbit ears), brought some cookies to go with the tea, but forgot my over-selfie taking self at the door when the other girls arrived to take a million photos from every angle. There was also a photo station under a tree where they gathered, but had no problem using the couch and mirror, etc to set the tone for their Instagram and Snapchat. Most of these girls arrived in an abaya so this was their chance to show some skin.
Between all the flash there was time for party games, some to include all twenty guests and others for just six or less at a time. I won a headband. People left en masse after the food but I waited for one of the cakes to be cut (and my Uber) to return me from Hidd before taking some cake pops with me. This party helps me appreciate all the moments I can spend with friends at events or gatherings while not buried in our phones. Perhaps some great invention will be revealed from their addiction, but until then I will continue to appreciate people in person before attending to my likes.
The first time, back in June 2014, I was excited to finally be old enough to appreciate living abroad as the last time I was learning to walk, talk, and feed myself which are all great skills for an avid traveler. The first time I had to help pay the hotel, rent the car, walk the dogs, deal with the visas — money, paperwork, and settling in — but the second time would be different.
Fast forward to the fall of 2019 and Caleb is arriving in Bahrain in September and has a room reserved at The K Hotel but is adamant about finding a more permanent place to reside before some of our things arrive so he can set them up before his wife comes to visit. I arrive about three weeks after him in October only to find out that our shipment (packed May 31) won’t be here until the end of November — some things don’t change.
pumpkin spirit in Alosra
I arrived via the civilian airport and took an Uber as Bahrain has given its government taxis the option to do both. BD4 later and I was dropped off in front of a new building, Infinity Suites, and looking around — lost. Turns out that’s just a good landmark for our new place. Caleb is expecting more excitement as he gives me a tour of the three-bedroom, three-bathroom villa with extra hand-washing sink and billiards table with straight cues.
The first thing I notice is the lack of art on the walls. He told me to be tired when I arrived so I stayed awake between San Diego and Houston, even though I was up before 4 am, until Paris with the help of a talkative and food sharing family behind me. I would sleep intermittently until arriving at the island after 6 pm the following day and after my tour going straight to bed.
view from Hotel Diva
The first week had me going to bed just as early but it was making up for waking me by 4 am, so Caleb would just get up with me and we got to have breakfast together before his third double-duty day since my arrival — 2.5 days at work and then four working days unless it lands on a weekend (whether American or Bahrain) and he doesn’t get called in. Last time we got two weeks together before he had to check-in and he only had duty every three days.
The neat thing so far is that as much of the island as I thought I saw last time, besides all the new construction (Avenues Mall, Oasis Mall, and IKEA, etc.) there are still parts I haven’t explored. I spent the first few days just walking around Juffair to get acquainted with what was still here and what wasn’t — restaurants into dirt lots and a corner rental car lot into a skyscraper. Last time we were quick to rent a car to get us back and forth between Amwaj, but it’s so nice to walk beside honking traffic and collision evidence without being stuck on the road.
new place
A new popular place is called Dose Cafe, but I have yet to try it. I was more concerned in my adventures with what the grocery stores had to offer as I found durian, but wasn’t quick to grab its sharp exterior to tote home. Last time I was busy taking pictures of the imported food and this time we will be more interested in trying the odd-shaped and unfamiliar produce as we eat less shawarma and sweets to treat our bodies better than we did last time we were here.
Vaping has really taken off here so that a variety of vaping cafes have opened and there are vaping competitions.. if only this would’ve been an option with cocaine when it was popular.. or alcohol which still is. People need to know when to curb their vices to a healthy amount and don’t worry, for my readers who know me I am trying to take my advice on this as well.
sunrise in Juffair
The next few days would be spent catching up and having coffee with some old friends — Quinn took me to Anna’s for the afternoon and since they’re moving I got to go through what’s left of her bookshelf and bring some home; Manal took me to Seef Mall so we could talk and shop while keeping her 13 and 16-year-old boys entertained; Muhanned bought me plenty of caffeine to keep us talking for hours at Dome Cafe; and Muhammed after inviting me along to pick up his friend’s spare key invited me to lunch to finally meet his family.
He decided on Saturday when they have fish would be best — when I got to sit next to his mom so she could show me how to pop the head off and remove the bones. I know how to do this but usually choose not to. His sister thought I was struggling because I wasn’t eating the stomach bones as I don’t care how small they are this time I still don’t want them stuck in my throat. Lunch turned into dinner and eventually I got a ride home after being invited back.
Sunday afternoon
Caleb and I went to the Quicker Than the Eye: Magic & Comedy Up Close! show featuring Bob Kubota, Michael Finney, David Malek, Jim Leach, and Chris Rose that was presented on base. We moved from the kids’ side to the adult side and I thought it might only be an hour-long, but we laughed for two. My favorite part was the volunteer participation in eating an Oreo and drinking milk for a $100 bet, but she wasn’t able to reproduce the cookie.
I bought some new running shoes for the treadmill, stationary bike, and rusted weights that came in place of a bed in our gym/office/diving supplies room complete with a big desk, a working chair, and a bookcase that needed more books from the library. Caleb got a day off so I rented a Kia Rio ($20 for the day vs. $30 to get a roundtrip Uber) and turned right after Hidd Bridge and explored a bit of ASRY (Arab Shipbuilding and Repair Yard) Company territory, so mostly boats and beaches, before picking up Caleb for a dive trip.
post-diving dinner
The weather has been amazing, not over 100* F, and only three days of high humidity (over 80%). I get to enjoy the shade and the breezes, with sunglasses on to keep the dust out of my eyes, but I also get to go onto the naval base showing my shoulders and knees. I wonder if this has anything to do with Saudi allowing foreigners to show their ankles and wrists now. We drive around Amwaj before meeting at the Marina to see how many more buildings can be stacked on the sand before more public beaches can be brought over the causeway.
The dive groups were easy to differentiate — those who spoke English (the two of us) and then the two groups of three guys — one speaking Spanish and the other Arabic. Same boat driver but new divemaster takes us to the newly sunk (three months ago) Boeing 747, stripped of all interior items except a few things in the cockpit and then to Al Boom Wreck to look at a boat that was hauling toilets. Visibility could’ve been better but we still saw plenty of angelfish and jellyfish.
microwave repair.. on the house
This month has come to an end and I don’t mind not having a car even if that means that some of my friends on the island don’t want to hang out. Others have moved internationally, some more regional than others, and a bunch have gotten married and one is expecting his second child. I don’t mind not going out because it means I can save money to travel because even Saudi is open to tourists now.
Jessi’s family had spent the night at Kris’s, and the boys were thrilled to come out in their pajamas and find cousins to play bedding games with: pillow fights, blanket forts, jumping on the bed, and human burritos, to name a few. Meanwhile, Kris was in the kitchen building a stack of homemade waffles without measuring the mix, so that each batch came out a different shape and color; a true preparation for a waffle frolic.
Jordan, Lyra, Tristan
Caleb and Jessi leave for REI, Kris and Vicki are getting her windshield fixed, and their dog’s teeth cleaned. I play toss with the boys, then play with cars with Jordan, while Tristan spends some time with Jake. He’ll play in his room later while Jordan and I nap. The kids gather on the couch and the stairs to scheme when they’re not running around outside or sharing their snacks with Nicki, the husky. Caleb and Kris play Lemmings, a game of leading little blobs to a safe exit through a number of obstacles.
Between last night and this morning, Robert will have been delivered to the airport for his return flight to Montana. We brought him with us to Colonial Williamsburg, as he’s a fan of those good ol’ days, but he wasn’t up for a return trip to the area, this time to visit Busch Gardens. This amusement park covers over 400 acres and requires a one-hour drive each way. Caleb and Kris, the active-duty sailors, receive complimentary admission, along with three dependents (spouse and children).
Jake and Tristan Sammi and Lyra Jordan
The parents came prepared to deal with their 11 and 9-year-olds, Sammi and Lyra, and 6 and 3-year-olds, Tristan and Jordan, as snacks were readily available after Prince Elmo’s Spire. We take turns between kid-friendly and adult thrill rides. It’s a warm 90°F day, and we are staying hydrated, getting sweaty, refueling with ice cream, and cooling off in front of the park’s large misting fans. Lunch is had at the Brauhaus, located inside the Das Festhaus, where a decision is made, and Kris will wait for us in his car.
Lyra and Sammi
Jake runs around the Land of the Dragons with the kids, keeping an eye on the youngest, who is ready for a stroller ride and another snack. As the other children tire, too, we board the steam-powered train for a 20-minute ride through a few villages. Vicki, Jake, and I ride the Griffon, the first steel roller coaster with a 90-degree drop. We take the Aeronaut Skyride from France to England to experience the view of the “World’s Most Beautiful Theme Park” from 80 feet in the air, and as a shortcut to our last ride.
Jessica, Vicki, Jake — in the middle
No theme park visit is complete without a mind-swirling spin on the teacups, named Turkish Delight here. Caleb takes over the wheel and brings pure joy to Jessi and her kids as we lean, laugh, and watch the world blur by. We stop by the Highland cows on the way out, and I watch the sky change colors as we drive back to Kris’s house for grilled cheese sandwiches. We stay long after pajamas are on, but it’s not every day you can get siblings from three states in the same house, so the kids stay up a bit later.
TheJessicaness 