Caffeine, Coffee, Cuppa

I’m up early, so I’ll join Farid’s roommate, Eliot, in the kitchen for some caffeine and conversation. When Farid wakes up, he makes us breakfast and more coffee. We have no set plans, just to get out and see the city. We stopped for a hot cuppa from Variety Coffee and took a break in the nearby park after exploring for two hours. Father Studzinski Square is nearby to honor a pastor who served this community for over 19 years.

There is more architectural history in this city than we have time for, but a few buildings stand out. The Woolworth Building, nicknamed the Cathedral of Commerce, which opened in 1913 and maintained the title of the tallest building until 1929, the one with no windows that opened in 1974 and is still used today by AT&T, and the elaborate honeycomb-like 80-landing viewing platform for tourists called the Vessel that opened in 2019.

To get a closer view of some of these buildings, we took the East River ferry to Manhattan and returned hours later via the Brooklyn Bridge, on foot. The bridge was opened in 1883 after 14 years of construction. Just a week after opening, with over 150,000 pedestrians (not Barnum’s 21 elephants), a stampede broke out and twelve people were trampled to death. The cables are made of 19 strands that consist of 278 spun wires. These are bolted to eyebars that are encased in a 23-ton anchor plate.

King Nyani, the largest bronze gorilla on the planet, holding Farid

Cable cars would take people over for 5 cents vs one cent to walk across. In 1907, sixty trains were crossing per hour. The pedestrian toll was repealed in 1891 and roadway tolls by 1911. Legend has it that George Parker sold this bridge at least twice a week, once for $50,000, to new immigrants with money to invest, until their toll booths were shut down by the police. George spent the last eight years of his life in Sing Sing Prison. In 1950, the 2 three-lane roadways replaced the trolley tracks.

Brooklyn Bridge

We have a burger around 3pm after walking the High Line (a rail-trail project created in 2009), shower when we get home, and Farid will make us spicy pasta to go with a documentary-filled evening about octopuses and Rajasthan Gypsies.

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Welcome Back to NYC

Williamsburg Bridge from Brooklyn

I’m in a taxi on my way to Bahrain International Airport on a Tuesday afternoon. The seatbelt doesn’t work, and the driver is on a call. Once there, I get to update my “expired” visa so I can go through passport control. Some masks have been released upon takeoff, and I can hear someone recycling food into a bag. Food service is immediate upon ascent, but no options, so I’ll be eating chicken. We land in Dubai.

I find a bunch of lounge chairs up the stairs and through security, but one lady is bent on enforcing the every-other-chair rule while people try to find a place to rest until their 3am flights. I’m reading and listening to “Rain Rain Go Away” and other songs so a mom can entertain her toddler and older sister. I have a silly thought about paying for a room, but I’m not spending $184 for three hours.

I’ll sleep uncomfortably in different chairs until the Emirates boarding process starts on Wednesday morning. I am printed a new boarding pass and wonder why the staff seem so concerned with passengers taking their phones out – they mean the plurality that some are carrying – as I see a person with three phones and two iPads. I get an hour nap in the row to myself and awaken to drinks and breakfast in the cabin, and snowy mountains out below.

I’ll stretch while waiting for the loo and ask a crew member for a croissant. I get three with some more fruit, too. I go back to sleep for a couple of hours and upon waking, plan on repeating the steps above. I forgot that my mask had come loose, so I’d taken it off (I’ve never slept in one before), so I didn’t think to put it on to get up until the awkward looks sent me back to my seat. I ask for another sparkling water to go with my tasty tofu and hard chickpeas and receive two.

I’ll take another nap, play some new plane games, and though my eyes burn, I’m done sleeping. I brushed my teeth as the residue was disturbing. I want the type of mirror in the loo as it allows spots to be wiped away with ease. I go for a coffee and find the chocolate stash, along with other snacks and drinks, left out to limit contact between crew and customers. I watch the skycam as it offers peeks through the clouds that would otherwise go unnoticed. We land in NYC.

I waited about thirty minutes for my luggage, which seems to be the average. There are reusable plastic bags available for protection. I fill out another form and then go to the Skytrain. At Howard Beach Station, I pay $11.50 and am confused about how to continue once through the turnstile doors until a security guard tells me to go through the gate. It’s windy on my two-minute wait on the A-line that will connect me at Broadway Junction to Hewes St., where I’ll meet Farid.

“Of all that breathes and crawls across the earth, nothing is feebler than man.”

I haven’t been in New York in years and don’t think I’ve ever been without Caleb. This ride is a little bumpy with rough starts. I’m feeling spoiled after the smooth landing and great services on the plane. There’s nothing like rushing to get to the proper platform (way faster here than in London) and being greeted by the smell of weed and a man begging on the train. We’ll walk to the water and get wine and tacos to eat at home for WWW (Wine and Weed on Wednesday).

We are joined by Shanta and her husband from Romania, and another friend, Shahanna, who will stay about two hours. I’m getting ready for bed about twenty minutes after they leave so I can be asleep before tomorrow.

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Bye, Bye, Bahrain

We would spend the last few days of the year walking around various areas of the island — some here before Caleb’s first visit in 2004 and others that were made after we left in 2016. This country is constantly a work-in-progress, some buildings leaving you to wonder if they are being built up or torn down. Here are a few of the pictures I took.

sunrise on the bridge

shopping and reading

The House of Coffee, Muharraq

outside and inside views of our staycation …

… chosen for a tub we can both lay in

sunset views

a roundabout on Reef Island

Coral Bay — kitties, water for sale, skyscrapers

Busaiteen Beach Walkway

The Park @ Bahrain Bay

a popular place to feed the birds

sun, shade, and watering cans

built with centuries between them

ready to refill

We spent a few days exploring cemeteries and realized we had missed out previously on a quiet place to explore on such a busy island (prior to the Covid Crisis). The map doesn’t do the size of these places justice as we walked the perimeter and crisscrossed through an area neither of us had thought to go, even though we’d been to the Delmun Burial Mounds and have traveled to other memorial sights in various countries.

We will depart the island next month with no idea on our expected return date, if the Navy shall grant us that option with this abrupt change in plans, as we hadn’t thought about going back last time we left except for the income increase, proximity to warm diving locations, and ability for me to travel to so many countries without a day’s long flight, literally. Caleb wasn’t able to leave the island in 2020 for two reasons: Captain Tom is a workaholic when he can avoid his wife and then Covid came in to restrict the military making fun travel illegal and work travel difficult — and almost impossible to navigate with people who have trouble working in a supervised office not being held responsible for the same duties at home.

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Signs of London

I spent over two weeks in London, mostly outside, to compensate for the lack of trees in Bahrain and the denial of access to these places (deemed non-essential) for so long, which was still an issue during my visit. This is the reason I was in London instead of making a return trip to Turkey: because the country wasn’t following the airline’s guidance on the current worldwide issue.

Upon returning to my temporary home, I will pay for a brain-poking test and a three-month visa. I drop Caleb off at work so that we can have some much-needed time together. I returned to the house and noticed while doing laundry (his clean and mine not) that I used three pants, four tops, three bras (I could’ve used another), six pairs of socks, a sweater I got on the trip, and enough undies for every day I was there. I wore a shirt and shorts pajama combo and brought two tops I didn’t use.

I vacuumed our three-bedroom place, took out the trash, cleaned the kitchen, and returned to the base to get our utilities check. I go to our bank first and pull out dollars, and then the currency exchange upstairs for dinars. The guys behind the glass will take care of delivering the payment. The following are just a few, ok more than a few, posted signs that caught my eye throughout the city.

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Fog and Footsteps to my Flight

I’m packed up and out of Falconry Court earlier than usual. I’ve got a flight to catch back to Bahrain this afternoon and want to make the most of my last half-day in London. I step out into a 39° fog and notice a significant change overnight. Many shops are closed, the cafes have their outdoor chairs put away, and the number of people out is few.

I stopped at a bakery in Teddington, and I’m sure it’s usually worth the visit, but today has the worst cronuts ever (lemon and apple spice) as they try to get rid of inventory before the lockdown at midnight. A memorial for Timothy Bennet was erected in 1900 on the corner of Sandy Lane and Cobbler’s Walk for his £700 spent on legal fees in 1752 to establish a public right of way through Bushy Park that is still enjoyed today.

I encounter more leaves, moss, and spiderwebs than people or traffic on my way towards Teddington Village. In 1065, King Edward the Confessor gifted the manor, and the village grew away from the river. In 1536, King Henry VIII acquired the manor that remained in the hands of the crown until 1603, when it was given to John Hill and remained in his family until 1728. John Barton sold the land in 1862, and Teddington grew from 1,000 residents to 10,000 in 40 years.

The first house on Broad St. was used as a library until the Carnegie Library opened in 1906. A school for boys was opened in 1831, became a church school in 1862, and was demolished in 1979 along with the church. The coming of the electric tram down High St. left houses leveled after only 20 to 40 years of occupation. St. Mary’s Church has been enlarged and repaired many times since it was built in the 16th century. It was closed for a while when St. Alban’s opened across the street in 1889, and after more repairs, it was able to reopen. It is still in use today, even though it lacks a loo.

I come out of a pedestrian bridge over train tracks near the Feltham Social Club, and a lorry (truck) driver makes a face at me that makes me smile. I’ll finish walking at Lansbury Ave Stop F, about a mile from the airport (property, not a pedestrian entrance), and go into a shop for coconut water. The first one costs £2 with a card minimum of £3, and next door’s costs £1.39 with a £2 minimum, but the clerk lets me buy it anyway.

At the airport, I chug water, charge my phone, and eat before getting more food (to have it available). I start my period, which is always a blessing after a trip, instead of going into one. I message with Dad and talk with Caleb. I meet Will, from Scotland, and his friend who are traveling to Switzerland to escape the lockdown. I eat the food I bought earlier and walk laps for half an hour until my gate is posted. A man is upset that the shops are closed even though the lockdown doesn’t start until midnight.

I heard another guy say that his flight is at 6 pm tomorrow. He showed up with dinner 26 hours before his flight, as perhaps where he was staying would kick him out at midnight, or transportation options would be limited or nil. I’m sitting at the gate, reading a magazine, and this guy comes up panting and sweating, thinking the airline was about to close the gate. The ticketing agent tells him he still has half an hour since there are only 50 people on a 300-person plane.

Each person gets their own row. I met some British Bahrain kids and talked with Kian, who is traveling with her sister and boyfriend. I eat the food that is passed out, even though I’m not hungry, and skip the tea to avoid getting warmer as I’ve already taken off my coat, sweater, and socks. I’ll attempt to nap with the remaining hours of this 6.5-hour flight in hopes I’m not too tired tomorrow, even though Caleb will be at work.

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