The Animals Come Out at Night

I wrote in my notes that I slept until 6am so that Caleb could take pictures of me sleeping, but really, I get up at 6am at least five days a week to get ready for work that starts at 9am, or five minutes early so I can be prepared for my first customer when the doors open. Anyways, we’re still on vacation, so let me get back to that. We go to breakfast at 7am and talk with the other couple that brought their dive gear to the table. We learn that the wife has been diving for 17 years and is taking her husband, once certified, to the Blue Hole; which will be her third time taking the plunge.

The waiter had returned to inquire about the ingredients in my breakfast, so I was under the assumption that I was getting eggs and tofu with my beans in my fry jacks, but regardless, I like the extra carbs when the bread seems less full. I eat my food with a side of mosquito bites and appreciate not having to put up with these necessary evils on a daily basis; though I’d have to if I live near warm water dive locations. In the shop, I see a woman with a bottle of champagne and a phone tripod, and a different definition of vacation.

We get a ride across the street with a trainee (not sure for what) and two snorkelers that get on another company’s boat. Our first site is Tuffy Canyon where, averaging 47ft for 44 minutes, the Yellowtail snappers and I watch reef sharks propel themselves past us at 1.5mph, though with their slanted tails creating more jets of water, they can reach speeds of 25mph. The fastest shark in the sea, thanks to its dermal denticles “skin teeth”, is the mako at 35-50mph. In trying to find if someone has pet one before, I came across Keith Poe, Shark Tagger, who likes to play tug-o-war with them in Southern California, for science.

I also found the Shark Angels, an organization that wants to turn fear into fascination, so it offers dive trips to the Bahamas so you can watch sharks get fed, so that they’re too full or distracted to snack on you; among other things I’m sure. There are five basic types of camouflage in nature: concealing (deer) vs disruptive (jaguar) coloration, disguise (crabs), active camouflage (octopus), and mimicry (oakleaf butterfly), but sharks aren’t often mentioned for their ability to blend in from above, below, and where the ocean floor meets water.

Sharks are impressive creatures and sometimes our eyes can only catch a glimpse of their movement, so our brains think we see light reflecting off a small fish, but it’s actually catching a shark belly in contrast to its environment. All this research leads me to learning about tonic immobility, which is some animals’ way of avoiding being eaten in their state of paralysis, but plays a role in the sharks mating behavior. The first dive is incredible and so inpiring, which fascinates me on so many levels, because there is so much more to see and learn about the species I’m lucky to meet underwater.

Our surface interval is at the dive shop where I’m offered the opportunity to pee off the ladder, usually something reserved for at sea, through my wetsuit which will need washing, and rinse with their fresh water shower; which had I known was an option, I could’ve just peed in the shower like I do at home instead of soaking my neoprene for Caleb to de-funk later. The second dive at Paradise Canyon is amazing as I capture a shark and turtle in the same scene. The visibility starts to lower but after another 44 minutes with a max depth of 57ft it’s time to get out.

We leave our gear in the van for the ride back to the night dive that is promised after sunset. We walk to the room, past a Great kiskadee with a unique three-syllable call and a cute crest. Though I’ve never introduced myself as a birdwatcher, it is an activity that I seem to seek out for the joy it brings, even in moments like this when the encounter was unplanned. Though I do understand why it seems to be older people, or childless couples, that best get to experience the calm and quiet it takes to fully appreciate the birdsong, wing flap, and feather shuffle as they dance to their own beat.

I put on more aloe and we switch into dry clothes. In this process, Caleb misplaces his phone, so we go to the shop and office to ask about it only to find it where he set it down to change. We go to Rum & Bean for our daily milkshake; not a healthy habit, so I’m grateful it’s temporary, but we’d adjust the sugar to vegetable intake in the long-term as I love an icy drink on a hot day or as a second breakfast smoothie at work as a blended way to get my daily nutrients by the sip or chunk, depending on how much water I add to the cup and how long I blend it.

There are some sweets in the display again, so we grab a cinnamon roll (I only eat the top half) and a coconut chocolate chip turnover (that Caleb will finish, even though he doesn’t like coconut). I’ve learned my lesson about baked goods from this source — don’t waste my time trying to enjoy them. Some things are just better looked at or smelled through the wrapper. We get our night dive receipt taken care of and go to the lobby porch to read.

We’ll have been lounging for about an hour when new guests arrive, which means more welcome drinks and the accidental making of two extra that we gladly accept with their pineapple wedge on the rim at around 230pm. We spent the next four hours on our kindles, phones, and having a snack before meeting on the dock at 630 so we could get to Hol Chan Cut by dark after checking in with the park ranger in his floating office. We’d be the only dive boat this evening, so I was able to wear my one glove. There is a boat nearby that will have snorkelers shining their lights on us, like we’re about to do to the nightlife.

Our pre-dive brief asked us to enjoy seeing the fish, but please don’t spotlight, and blind, the little ones for the bigger fish to see and eat. Also, beware the bloodworms. We, Caleb and the two girls, we went with, were told their name was only color derived, but would find out post-dive that we were swimming with the world’s smallest leeches and they had made the most of their opportunity from the willing donors (aka divers with lights that attract them). We dove with the small young (their length was the width of a pinky finger and their width that of the cuticle), but the adults can cause a bee-sting like reaction and grow up to 15 inches long.

We were also told that turning your light off would get rid of the pests, at least temporarily, and improve your vision as you focused on others’ lights, but there are venomous creatures lurking in the dark so it’s best not to bump into them. Instead, use your light to draw the bloodworms towards brain coral and watch them disappear in a sci-fi like manner. We see Yellow stingray, Southern stingray, hermit crab, a crab under a rock, a Channel Clinging crab with six legs, Spanish slipper lobster, nurse shark, Caribbean spiny lobster, and a baby puffer fish.

This was our longest dive here, at 55 minutes with a max depth of 26ft. The water temperature was 87.8 degrees and I was chilly on the dive but so excited and distracted by all the action. I would wrap myself in both towels for the return trip and put a hoodie on for dinner by the beach while our ride took the girls back to the shop. We shared a crispy chicken sandwich and a bratwurst with onions. We walk back to the room and I put two bandaids on, with mixed emotions, as my wound opens more. 

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Left Hand Healing, Right Hand Petting

Caleb wakes me up with his sleeping arm into my sunburn. I put lotion on where I can reach, minimizing causing myself more pain in the process and come back to bed so that Caleb can put sunscreen on the rest of my burns. We go to breakfast and both order ranchero de casa and I order maple fry jacks (triangular sopaipillas) and eat most of them. We stop by the tour office and get aloe, and when we go back to check-in with our pink slips from the resort, verifying that we paid, the morning dive has been canceled.

Caleb was looking for his hat this morning and we asked about it at breakfast with no luck, but someone had found it and we saw it sitting on a shelf behind the front desk when we went inside to rent a golf cart for two hours, just in case the afternoon dive was still available. Caleb carried our dive bags back to the room (not sure why we didn’t use the cart), but this guy gives us a jokingly hard time about it, but Caleb let them know I’m burnt. I’ll crack a joke at the top of the stairs when we’re out of earshot, so I won’t be sharing it here either.

This gives us time to go into town and park near Patz Delicatessen and walk to Island City Supermarket; a store that looks better online. We get more sunscreen, even though ours will last the trip, and some leave-in conditioner to help with my tangled curls. I think it works better as a pre-wash cream. I’ll take over the driving so Caleb can navigate us to Amigos Del Mar Dive Shop. It’s here that we find out their boat went out this morning and plans to leave again at 11am for the afternoon trip. We badly want to go but we don’t have our gear with us and won’t make it back in time, so we can only hope that the boat we’re booked on will still go out.

I’m stopped at an intersection, trying to figure out if I turn right now or turn right on the next street. A taxi driver to my left honks, even though he has room to turn next to me, so not sure what that’s about. Luckily, a kind guy on two wheels points out the sign for the Eco Iguana Corner Foundation where they are breeding them. We park and while Caleb locks up the cart; as the start key is the same for the island apparently, but the lock key different; I find comfort in the shade. We are slowly approached by an older man who points out so many hidden iguanas as they lounge on branches and across twigs.

There’s a few small boats resting among the blue-green algae, one with more water in it than under it. As we turn left we’re greeted by a jealous kitty who hangs around while I get to feed a banana to an iguana and then pet his body and spines (tuberculate scales) that are softer than they appear, more flexible fingernail vs hard (both are healthy) and less porcupine or splinter. Our tour guide lifts the iguana onto his hind legs, just to show their relationship, like a cat that lets you rub its belly. We bypass the tourist picture opportunity (a photo stand-in) and walk across the bridge made of the 2-inch thick trees nearby (or their cousins from a different location).

I’m surprised there’s not flies here or perhaps they’re too preoccupied with the rotting piles of fruit and lettuce that the iguana smear their genitals on while they pick a piece to munch on. We wave to some of the guys sitting near the kitchen and pass their house on the way out – a version of my childhood home had the cabin been more than just a few walls with a crooked shelf (because I was fighting with my sister) before it was torn down and 2×4 frames put up in a day, but only a single story instead of two.

We stop at a shop because of their sign, which seems to interest us both more than what was inside. We walk next door to the Belikin Store where they sell shirts, beer mugs and dark chocolate, so we grab two bars with just three ingredients (cacao, cane sugar, and roasted malted barley) and at least two of them local, so we can try a piece now and have some for later. We’ll drive the 0.25 mile (according to the sign posted, but more accurately 0.68 mile) past our resort to see what the Black Orchid has to offer, but found out they’re closed on Sunday and Mondays and don’t open until 3pm for happy hour and dinner at 530.

The owners, a couple, started their dream in 2007, graduated from culinary school in 2011, opened up on Halloween of 2012, survived the Covid regulations, and have since been retired in 2023 due to amazing staff who continue to serve their pork and seafood menu. I’m glad we made the drive instead of walking as I want to be adventurous but also want a nap. The speed bumps are horrendous, especially on Caleb’s spine, and even the mooring rope over the road causes us to slow down while we get passed by others, but that’s the status quo for vacation mode regardless of where we are.

We return the cart and go back to the room to eat my accumulated leftovers for lunch. We are booked for a private tour, just us and our guide George, for the afternoon. We get dropped off and even get help with our gear. The boat takes us just outside the reef and we can see sharks just below. It seems one nurse shark in particular recognizes her lionfish buddy as divers have a 50% chance of getting fresh ceviche for their underwater friends or getting it onboard to share with others. Spearfishing has regulations like other hunting sports, but also free-for-alls of invasive species to protect local parks.

We see other nurse and some Caribbean reef sharks too. It’s amazing to have a shark in almost every picture. Riding out to sea on high waves is one thing, because you’re thinking about being underwater, but it’s another to contemplate dealing with twice when trying to board with a trainee. The ladder won’t stay put, so while he tries to get me onboard, with my sunburn and one hand slowing me down, the trainee tosses a line and buoy, also not staying put, for the guys to hold onto so they don’t get carried further from the boat.

Once we’re all safely onboard, I let the guys know I’m turning down the opportunity for round two. The dive took me to a max depth of 82ft and we were only down for 39 minutes, but that will be enough. I look forward to a dry bandage, and more aloe and sunscreen. We walk to Rum & Bean for more milkshakes to go with our dinner and the inquiring minds at the table next to ours want to know where our big name drink came from… the local shack that’s walking distance from here with no logos present, but they could be sneaking in their syrups.

Those same minds happened to take “our” table, so that’s why we sat next to them. We’re glad to be early, meaning before 530pm, so we can get the lunch menu which has more us-friendly options. The service is usually great, but I grab menus, then grab water glasses and one set of silverware as the table next to us offers theirs. I’m wondering how long it will take when the guy next to us gets his drink. I suppose it didn’t help our cause showing up with outside beverages, but there are no signs posted otherwise and we were offered to be made drinks.

I get the tofu nachos, Caleb the steak fajitas, and an order of chicken quesadillas to-go. It’s nice having a partner that I can share so much with; sometimes because we like the same things or because we compliment each other’s tastes whether it be food, clothes, or activities. Caleb, the other day, compared our reading as Calvin and Hobbes to Nietzsche, but he really should give himself more credit for the books and memes that have given him so much nautical and naughty knowledge. Maybe one day we’ll record some of our post-dive conversations and turn them into a podcast, but for now, we sleep.

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28 Minutes In the Largest Sea Hole

I’m grateful that we packed the night before, so all I need to do is cover up my sunburnt skin and help drag my gear, in a rolling bag, across the street. It’s a good thing we got to the dock early as our stop is the furthest from the shop where the big boat that will be taking us into the open ocean awaits and leaves us and the other ten divers waiting on a lone traveler to join us at her pace. Perhaps she’s already on island time, but the team was early because the ride out is 2.5 hours. We meet John and George, our divemasters and are given banana bread and watermelon for breakfast while they move our gear. 

Caleb and I will walk to the bank ATM to pull out the $40 per person park entry fees that I forgot in the room. I’m used to authorizing a credit card and being charged upon return depending on how the day turned out. The boat leaves at 6am and Caleb and I will talk with Dolly and David, a couple visiting from Los Angeles, with their adult sons. I usually avoid boat heads because I’ve already peed in the water a bunch and going down into a hot closet is the opposite of salty, Vitamin D filled, air; but the crew secures the facilities for rough seas, waves at four feet high. 

Caleb had looked up water temperatures before coming to the island so we knew which wetsuits to bring. Well, we brought too many as we learn that the Blue Hole will be 83 degrees today, instead of the advertised 67 degrees on the internet. I’ll still put on my white 3mm because I get cold easily, but we don’t need his 5mm or my 7mm for the rest of the trip. We are the first ones in the water, out of habit, but have to float between a military law enforcement boat (tied off to the dive boat) and the reef to wait for everyone to make the surface swim together.

It’s easy enough for most people to jump in the water with dive gear on and not die, especially with an instructor nearby, but the joy increases with the details — buoyancy, awareness, and breathing slowly so the dive can last longer. None of that matters at this site though as we’re here to get down and get back up before anyone runs out of air, but if they do, there are regulators and tanks in the water at the safety stops so they don’t get a side of the bends too. I prefer my descents to go at the speed that I can equalize the pressure in my ears and appreciate that I was able to keep up and not get left behind.

The dive leader gives the signal to go down and will check in with us at 40ft before we make the plunge to 132ft (or 135ft for me and 154ft for Caleb, because he attempted to save a necklace). The other divemaster will make the rounds to all the divers to check their air and situation. Going down in a crowd sucked and I tried to keep my distance so that I wouldn’t catch a fin in the face. I know this is something I’m going to have to work on if this hobby becomes employment. Perhaps I become a trail volunteer in a park for a season and then spend a few months underwater, just the two of us, every year.

I had in my BCD and tank pockets a total of 18 pounds of weight, which is more than the 10% of my body weight needed to sink me, while alive. Learning the proper ratios of wetsuits to weights in rental gear with different salinity is quite a science, which is why having your own gear is good for gaining this knowledge and making changes accordingly; as some companies will still prep and clean your gear too. I usually surprise people with the amount of lead I ask for, but this amount caught me off guard, as it might’ve been ok in my 7mm, but was quite the workout without the extra buoyancy support.

We go over the edge and it almost seems too dark to see, but then we’re quickly at another ledge with resting nurse sharks and giant stalagmites and stalactites. By the time you realize what you’re seeing, it’s time to go up. I didn’t notice the little fish until looking at the pictures after. I was swimming vertically and the divemaster told me to stop kicking and swim horizontally, but I was fighting gravity and nitrogen narcosis; apparently fun at first, but then deadly by becoming unconscious underwater. I would love to be able to go back down and spend a few more minutes exploring.

I quickly burned through my air and came up, first, with 500 psi in my tank (the minimum to maintain them safely for longer) after our safety stop. We were below 100ft of water for eight minutes. Lesson learned: always check for proper buoyancy before a new dive situation as depth (atmospheric pressure changes) can make a huge difference as tons of water compress all the air out of your wetsuit and the extra lead, that was no big deal at the surface, now causes you to swim like your life depends on it. Once on the boat, I notice that my once semi-healed wound is now wide open and swollen with salt water – no surprise there.

Wide open meaning that where there was once 1.5mm of the epidermis and tendon sheath protection, there is now a third of that gently covering the inside of my hand from the outside world. I ask the boat captain for a bandaid and while he has the first aid kit open I venture to ask for a butterfly stitch, but quickly retract with bandage in hand and claim no injury so that my other two dives don’t get canceled. I’ve already destroyed my hand, so there’s no point in ruining the trip for both of us. Caleb will get me an ace bandage so that I can conceal the damage and, “stop staring at it.”

Caleb agrees that this dive was not fun, but that’s in the moment. Looking back, had I read some blogs or done more research before we left I would’ve had a better idea of what we were in for, but there’s only so much that reading can prepare you; such is the life of a traveler, hiker, diver, or learner of anything but reading itself. The other authors tell you about the narcosis, the 10-person minimum to make the trip, and how crazy, awesome, and fast it all is – just like the ball drop on NYE in NYC or the Formula Rossa roller coaster in Abu Dhabi. Some experiences are only meant to happen once, but given enough time, you can ride again without getting too dizzy.

I suppose Mammoth Cave would be a better comparison — something so big and beautiful but rushed through with a crowd — of wanting more time to appreciate the history and science of the Blue Hole. We love the theory, but the execution of safety impedes enjoyment. I’m grateful to have experienced this and if anyone in the future wants to fly me down there, then I will gladly join them for another opportunity to experience narcosis in the depths of this formation and take in more of the abyss. We’re hoping for more space between divers in the next two locations.

It’s probably a 30-minute ride to Half Moon Cay Wall, six miles south, to our second dive site. I enter the water after almost an hour of surface time. The max depth for this dive will be 65ft for 45 minutes. I hold the ace wrap on, stay a bit above the others, and watch the Caribbean Reef shark that follows our group but maintains its distance. There’s definitely more here that catches the eye, but that’s because red quickly turns to black at shallow depths and you lose half the color spectrum by 80 feet. I’m given permission after this dive to wear a glove because we’ll be out of the protected parks.

Lunch is set up on board and we can take our potato salad, rice & beans, and actual stewed chicken (in reference to the drier meat I got the first night on the island) on reusable plates to picnic tables set up on Half Moon Caye; the first 42 acres to be designated a nature reserve in Belize and the first marine protected area in Central America. I’ll have Caleb’s slice of coconut pie in place of bird. Sadly, the pictures that we took from the bird stand of the nesting Red-footed boobies (in their only sanctuary in the world) and a “great beach” (the side of the island with beautiful volcanic rock but not a safe sand to water transition) were lost.

We should’ve worn our dive boots to explore, but the heat tempted us to wear flip-flops in the sun that exposes Caleb’s red feet. I’ll stay in my wetsuit for that reason, but the sand is too hot to go barefoot and builds up in our sandals which worries Caleb that he’ll get a free sanding with a side of blisters on his already sore tootsies. I wanted to explore the island, but we were only given an hour and were asked to return our plates after dining so they could be washed before departure. We return and sit on the lower dock to rinse our feet.

After our hour and a half surface interval to off-gas some built up nitrogen, it’s time to get back in the water for our third dive of the day. I’ll go down to 14lbs, which makes a different but is still too much weight, so I struggle for the first half of the dive to not sink, but then being lighter have to worry about getting in front of the guide. I’ll tread water a few times and then just start circling back so that I can see the area three times instead. I see sharks, an eel, trumpet fish, and see a belly rub (hand signal for good eating). I’ll come up close to 500 psi again, having gone down each time starting at 2750 psi.

I hang my wetsuit to drip some on the return trip, but next to all the other wetsuits it definitely won’t be dry. I pull my skinsuit down halfway and put on a light hoodie for sun protection. I’ll have to put on more sunscreen for the walk back to the room and then apply a new bandage once my hand has dried out. I feel like it’s going to take so long for my hand to heal now. We get back to shore at 430 and return to our room with the help of two spear fishermen who give us a ride from halfway down the entrance. 

With the salt washed off, we walk to dinner and get a mid-meal table wipedown; not sure if done hourly or for the ice melt rivulets. We’re both ready to get back to the room so that I can wet my contacts and then use my nails to peel them off my eyeballs instead of blinking and massaging my eyelids for up to 15 minutes for the same results. We read until I start to melt into the bed, with a warm blanket and inflamed skin, under the A/C and ceiling fan. Caleb wants to keep his eyes upon just a bit longer, but soon joins me in slumber.

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Getting Pink with Ice Cubes

Or how to get a sunburn before lunch…

We slept for 10.5 hours, something I would claim hasn’t been done since I was a teen, but as my husband and dad will attest, I still have no problem doing; unless I’m traveling or have somewhere to be, such as work, school, or breakfast. But in this case, we were told yesterday not to check-in until late and with sunrise at 5:18am, we weren’t worried about sleeping too much. We bring my pink and his yellow water bottles to be filled in the lobby and then I’ll sit down to a smaller version of the welcome drink with the pink and yellow still separated.

the oft-mentioned pool

I take a sip and realize that when we plan a mostly dive vacation we spend more time at meals in restaurants than we do when driving and shoving food in our faces from behind the wheel or while on the trail. Caleb eats at this pace regardless of location or activity, but is more likely to relax at a shaded table with a breeze on a lovely morning when the place isn’t crowded and watch me eat the other half of my meal while the server has already cleared his dishes. Caleb, on the other hand, is wondering about the loud black bird which could either be a Great-tailed Grackle or a Melodious Blackbird.

I choose a traditional Belizean breakfast, a fry jack stuffed with eggs and beans with a pizza wedge of a watermelon slice on the side. The fry jack is like the best flour tortilla but with an added crispy layer of goodness. I’m only able to eat half and then we walk to the pier where the boat launches for a private beach for hotel guests. Posted here, a double entendre, about how people swimming feeds the crocodiles, so please don’t do either. We walk back to the room and the phone ringing interrupts our conversation.

It’s the tour shop letting us know that our morning dives are canceled and that we can try again at 1:30, depending on the wind speed in the afternoon. A bit of upset washes over both of us, and that’s to be expected. We drop off our medical history and liability waivers at the shop, passing an iguana, one of many we have seen since landing yesterday. We spot a Tropical mockingbird in a little courtyard on our way to Rum+Bean for some coffee to cheer us up and to think about how we’ll fill the morning without being too far away if we get the go ahead.

I’ll get an Oreo Frappuccino (didn’t realize the f word was trademarked by the s place), complete with a cookie in the cream, and Caleb gets his second breakfast with a week’s worth of sugar in it with a partial Snickers on top. As if that wasn’t enough, Caleb went full vacation mode and ordered a peanut butter cookie too. I would’ve shared more of it with him, but I was in a softer foods mood and not trying to crunch through a dog biscuit. There’s an interesting variety of books to peruse while we wait our turn in the drink order line.

One has pictures of unique bookshelves; another has geek baby names (Lady Jessica from the 1965 novel Dune); and the last will inform us of animal facts about the fiddler crab keeping cool, the sperm whale being loud, and the mantis shrimp that causes light and 8,000 °F temperatures with its punch. We sip our drinks in the cool air before passing a garden and construction in progress, some of the workers passing us on bicycles. We find a covered dock with a bench, but we will sit lower so we can just dip our toes in the water.

We walk the half mile to Toast where there’s a bar, snorkel gear shop, and swings that are in high tide so we can swim to them later. The woman at the shop says that today is good for snorkeling Shark Ray Alley because when the winds die down the visibility will be bad, but we’ve been diving in worse. Note: don’t go diving when the seas stir up sand and fish terds and you can’t see past your own arm. It’s better to wait until you can see a hundred feet, which I know isn’t all dive sites and that sharks can still sneak up on you, but they’re so graceful.

We walk back to the room to cool down a bit, as coming from San Diego to San Pedro in mid June will increase the temperature by 20 degrees. We grab our books and water bottles with the plan of passing two hours by the side of the 72,000 gallon saltwater pool. The personal playlist booming from the big- booty, thong-wearing, women might change our plans though depending on how long they plan on getting jiggy with it on a float and lounger. The water is cool but the ambiance is not, so Caleb is soon ready to move our party elsewhere.

We walk to Meliza’s Art & Soul gift shop that might’ve lacked stickers, but has carved turtles, mini knives, fish paintings, gem masks, weaved bags, shiny hats, etc. We look around and don’t see anything that we want to bother getting home safely just to not find a place to display it since we still haven’t put up our tiny shelves for setting out the trinkets we do have (and possibly plan to get rid of) depending on whether we live out of a van and boat, a tent and bicycle, a cabin and golf cart or some other amazing adventure filled option when Caleb is finally done with his government obligation.

To better understand the poolside mood of earlier, realize that we’re trying to stay out of the sun and be sober for diving, while everyone else is here to drink up vitamin D and Belizean rum. We relax in reclining chairs, with our feet up, for our next reading session on the hotel lobby porch until I get hungry enough to finish the other half of my breakfast, in the 17°C sunroom, with a nice breeze which also helps keep the exposed room cool. We are less surprised when Caleb gets a text that the afternoon has also been canceled.

We’ll return to the poolside but will switch sides to take advantage of the shade the canopies provide in relation to the sun’s location. We’re sitting in our swimsuits and I’m still feeling a bit warmer than usual, so I take a picture of my back and shoulders that have been exposed all morning, with just a dab of sunscreen on top for good measure (because the sun only shines straight down). What I couldn’t see then was the white patches where SPF 30 had been applied and the light pink skin that would continue to cook itself, following Newton’s first law of motion, of course.

So we lay the chairs all the way back to stretch out, though this helps Caleb’s spine and puts a strain on mine. We watch the couple’s in the pool, especially when they swim up near our chairs, and if another dive gets canceled that might be us. Is snorkeling with crocodiles considered swimming? I’m ok spending the day relaxing, but next time we can rent carts from the resort with rates at $25/2hr or $200/3 days. There’s a chart of more options, but we would rather rent bikes in town since it’s no longer an option here, even though it’s still advertised everywhere.

Caleb starts to get hungry, since he didn’t have a second half of breakfast to eat for lunch. As he’s looking at nearby menus, the bar brings him a blue rose (whiskey, rosemary, and blueberries) to sip on, but also hoping to entice him to buy a bottle like the other swimmers or to come to the bar to try their other flavors. This helps a bit, but by 2pm Caleb is ready to go. We return to the room for more sunscreen and I change into Caleb’s clothes for more skin coverage than only the skimpy dresses he talked me into bringing, even though we both know the most common injuries we’ve seen while diving is sunburns, seasickness, and scraping (when the tide forces you to share a t-shirt with coral until you’re blood buddies), but maybe that’s just Caleb’s shore diving experiences.

I peel the old tegaderm film off my palm and it takes the dried blood away. I was convinced this morning that it was still healing, but looking at the open wound with skin as white as the bed sheets I’m not so sure. I hope that the inner layer of dermis has formed and I’m only seeing the discarded hand meat that has yet to be replaced in the life cycle that takes 2 weeks to 6 months depending on if you’re 20 or 60 years old. I’m on Day 17 post-op and as I age, my body slows down the renewing process, leaving my hand open to infection for longer. It’s these things of youth that go unnoticed the most that are definitely missed when brought to our attention.

The Dirty Martini isn’t open yet so we go to JYOTO, the Japanese restaurant, next door. We choose to sit outside and move tables when ours becomes exposed to the sun. Feeling inspired by Caleb’s drink earlier, I’ll order something with blueberries in it while we wait on our sushi and soup to arrive. Since I didn’t take a picture of what we ordered from the menu, all I can tell you is one roll is crunchy, another has shrimp, and the third roll (with 6pc instead of 8pc) is called the Happy Cow. I got the vegetarian habanero-lime ramen, with surprise.

I notice a piece of blue plastic in my bowl and Caleb was quick to dismiss the first piece. I might not have thought much of the second piece either, but as Caleb picked it up, I found a third. Inside, I find out that it wasn’t an overzealous cut of a wrapped vegetable but parts of their dish sponge. Mine is biodegradable at home and I wouldn’t want to eat it. The host agrees that the right thing to do is make me another bowl, this one to-go, as there shouldn’t be sponge in my food. I now wonder how much more I ate, but at the rate of plastic consumption in the world, I’m doing better than the birds and the straw snorting turtle.

The staff apologizes again for the mishap but I’m grateful for another meal. Meanwhile, Caleb is surprised that I didn’t finish the first bowl. We take it to the room and look up things to do just in case: dive, eat, and relax. Well, we’ve accomplished two out of three today. There is an iguana sanctuary and an archeological site on the island, if we get the chance. We walk to LevelUp Barcade and have fun exploring the 80s memorabilia with the employee. We probably could have played some games, kept the conversation going, and had a drink but the guy said we could see crocodiles behind the bar so off we went as his co-worker showed up with their dinner.

We sat in the two chairs at the end of the dock and as the sun was setting I started to watch my legs for flying vampires more than the rippling water for signs of eyes and a snout. We begin to retreat from the water’s edge and notice the balls in the pool, just white earlier, now have different color lights inside that give the swimming area a cool nighttime vibe. It’s almost enough to make us linger, but the mosquito attacks increase and send us running to our room to escape the onslaught. There are a few inside as well but now I see more bumps on my face, neck, and legs than I do bugs.

My light pink skin from earlier is now a bright red sunburn covering my shoulders, between my tits and pits, and the front of my legs. I didn’t think we’d be in the sun that much and should’ve worn my dive skin or brought one of my many long-sleeved white shirts just for these vacation situations. I’m grateful that Caleb brought a spare outfit for this scenario, but I’d much rather avoid it. We wash the sweat off so Caleb can put lotion on my clean but tender skin. I climb under the safety of the blankets as a lone mosquito patrols the area. This also allows Caleb to turn the air down while we read.

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You Should Try the Rice and Beans

After hydrating, we put our carry-on bags and heads under the seats at our gate in Denver to attempt to sleep on the floor, in the shade provided, until our flight to Houston in less than five hours. We roughly make it two hours, waking every half hour, as our bodies remind us that we’re no longer at grandma’s house where playing under the furniture and on the floor was still fun. Though, we should’ve found a spot that would’ve allowed us to stretch our legs and I would’ve been out.

I’m done struggling and upon waking find out that our gate has changed so we decide to walk down there to try again. We find people stretched out on comfortable benches and I quickly join them for a good nap while Caleb chooses to stay awake. We’re third on the plane again, but this time it’s back to an exit row for us, which comes with the same legroom as first class but with limited refreshments. I ask the Air Force guy in front of us about his sweater and he tells me it’s his bootcamp class Raider logo, not the football team, but also not the lost name of the Twix bar in Europe until 1991 and 2000 when countries switched to the US branding.

Hello, Houston

And to think, my bootcamp class was just a number, though I suppose we could’ve had our hand-painted flag turned into a logo in 2004, but it would’ve been a very different process back then… with all our old technology, like a $1300 Nikon digital camera that was created from its 1975 Kodak predecessor that was the size of a toaster and cost ten times as much; it’s no wonder my mom used film. Not sure why I’m trying to limit the transfer of mediums to cameras when the class would have chosen someone to take the flag to the sweater shop so we could advertise our experience outside of a graduation book and a VHS tape.

Just typing that reminds me of how much history I have; knowing that some of my favorite readers were born before 1976. I’ll sit between Aaron, an off-duty flight attendant, and Caleb. Aaron caught my attention by taking a nice picture out the window, as the lights looked neat above the place, as he doesn’t get that opportunity while working. This flight has him going to a friend’s wing pinning ceremony to join the aviation industry. As we ascend, Aaron’s headphones go in and Caleb’s go on. I’m left to feel the pressure change like going up and down in an elevator.

I try to sleep and turn the music off, then back on with the volume down, but I give up and enjoy watching Caleb catch a nap on our two-and-a-half hour flight at 5am. We stop at a United Lounge for some breakfast and I’ll stand to eat my granola and yogurt until a couple gives us their seats amongst a sea of chairs filled with people’s bags so that they can crap, or talk crap on the phone, or have easy access to their crap because they think the world is crap and that they should treat others that way. We’ll get in a post breakfast walk before being the third passengers to board again.

near Fort St and Cork St

Caleb prefers to do crosswords on the ground, so we do that until takeoff. I’ll check out the current magazine and perform other in-air activities; one of which requires use of the facilities. Most airplane bathrooms are moist, everywhere, with a mixture of those wet smells, but this lavatory has the overwhelming stench of turds covered in disinfectant; kind of like the people who fart while using the alcohol wipes on their arm rests and tray tables.

I won’t realize it until we land and see the welcome signs that not only is this a new country for us, but a new isthmus too. We’ve been to the unnamed isthmus that Seattle, North America is on and the Niagara Peninsula connected to Canada. Of the seven countries located here, Belize was the only one to be ruled by the British until 1981 when the colony gained its independence but kept English as the official language. Most of the population also speaks creole patois – a mix of English and West African Akan – and one of the many Indian languages that make up ten percent of the population. 

in memory of Lena Quinto

We get through passport control and customs rather quickly as we’re just another couple coming to enjoy the beauty that this country’s water has to provide. We step outside, before noon, and are greeted with a group of men holding signs, none with our name, and others offering to take us so many places. We take turns in the loo and then our driver arrives. Lamar will place us and our bags in the Adidas van (that’s what the logo looks like) and then go back in the heat for the other name on his sign, who is running late, so we leave without them.

Baron Bliss Lighthouse

Lamar is happy to tell us a bit about Belize – the dialect, the manatees, and his time in customer service jobs that landed him this driving gig. He says something about, “you have to be right upstairs, so you can be right downstairs,” in reference to your mental and physical health. Caleb and I agree. Lamar has taken us from the Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport to the San Pedro Belize Express Water Taxi station that will deliver us to our vacation island in an hour and a half for $59 each, round trip. The alternative is the 15 minute flight starting at $116 from the municipal airport or an extra $100 to leave from the international airport to the island.

Along the way, we pass a lot of greenery and the Belize River; some houses that look modern and beachy but others that look more abandoned or unfinished with people living on the bottom floor (common in heavy weather locales); and get to see the new Haulover Bridge under construction. Some businesses are ran out of a garage or room in the house while others consist of a multi-floor building. I know all these things are common, but the contrasts aren’t usually so mixed; unless you’re overseas in a former or current British territory.

We pick up our paper ticket in the taxi office and confirm our return trip so that we don’t miss our flight. I find a table and finish my rice and tofu from the plane and then we walk to the Belize sign on the water where some girls will pose for the camera. We complete our little tour loop and return to the terminal for some water while we wait in line to board. We can’t sit at the front, where the employees lounge, so I’m happy to think that we’ll get a side window seat, but it quickly gets closed so that the splashes don’t wet the other passengers. There’s a slight breeze coming in through the part left unzipped but no chance of seeing whale sharks, dolphins, and turtles through the thick plastic.

Our bags were tagged before being loaded and we will point them out to the employees once ashore and they will match the numbers and return them to us. We are greeted by men selling coconuts, weed, and trips to Margaritaville (a resort at the other end of the island). Our driver to Mahogany Bay Resort will arrive shortly to help pull our bags to the van that will drive us the fifteen minutes to our accommodations for the week. There’s a strong island vibe as we pass dive shops and restaurants, of which we get a few recommendations of what and where to eat, before having our bags dropped at the golf cart shack and us being delivered inside.

sipping on fruity welcomes

The woman behind the counter will check us in and give us the same restaurant endorsements; as will the porter who brings us and our bags to room 316B, the upper half of a duplex connected to another duplex via a wide staircase; after the short tour of the bar and pool so that we can get our icy welcome drinks consisting of a pink and yellow mix through a paper straw. The a/c is on in the sunroom and bedroom with one cute blue robe with white fishes folded neatly at the end. The doors and windows aren’t airtight and are made of mahogany, the national tree of Belize; which is popular for use in furniture, boats, and instruments – for being wet and salty.

the view from our front door

Caleb checks that the mini fridge is packed with bottles of water while I check out the aluminum shower in the more humid bathroom with sliding doors to separate the rooms at different temperatures. Caleb puts on shorts and we both put on flip-flops for the short walk to the Tuff E Nuff office to check on our dives. We’re told to come back tomorrow at 8:50am and that Saturday we will need to be across the street, about a half mile, by 5:30am for our trip to the Great Blue Hole that inspired this trip. We have dinner early, outside at The Verandah; I’ll go local and Caleb chooses fish and chips.

stewed chicken, rice and beans topped with plantain, potato salad

With full bellies, clean bodies, and our dive bags ready for tomorrow, we put our feet up to relax, but sunset came too soon; an hour and a half earlier than San Diego, so we’ll be in bed early to make up for the night we spent as weary travelers in Denver and Houston.

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