A Dunes Day Wednesday

Posted on September 4, 2013 by TheJessicaness
sunrise at Great Sand Dunes National Park

sunrise at Great Sand Dunes National Park

It seems we couldn’t have come across a better camping spot accidentally than we did last night. As the sun begins to rise the tent, with sleeping dogs inside, will remain in the shade. We know hot temperatures will change our ability to see and do for the last few days of our trip. We want to make the most of this cool morning and start it off with a hike on the Dunes Overlook trail. We get to see the blues and purples in the sky as we walk through the green path and see the shades of brown change on the dunes below.

The trail is two miles round trip and offers us a look at new-to-us desert plant life that is thin and spiny to withstand low water levels and high winds. We pass some backcountry camping – the only evidence being a tiny trail and a small fire ring, and from the overlook of the dunes we could’ve continued down the Sand Ramp trail around the dunes perimeter for another eleven miles, but we turn back to make our way to the Escape Dunes which includes Star Dune – the tallest in the U.S. at 750 feet.

Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Had we known that when we set out to put our toes in its sandy goodness we could’ve tried finding the top with three hours of zigzagging up and down the windblown crests – a feat to brag about later. This is why Caleb and I agree that brochures should be left in a case outside the visitor center so they are always accessible. The bigger we get, a perk of growing up, the harder it gets to fit on the toys at the playground. A sandbox that no longer resembles a kingdom but a shoebox just isn’t as much fun – that would not be the problem here.

Another trail that cuts through the campground and leads through some low grass  brings us to sand that is hard and soft, cold and warm, smooth and rough, shaded and sunny, and crisscrossed with footprints of man and dog. We could race each other, build castles and moats, or make sand angels. Or we can admire the different shapes of the sand and how it changes in our hands and stare at one plant and imagine the power it has to shape this area as its ancestors have done for millennia or maybe just a decade.

the road to Del Norte, Colorado

the road to Del Norte, Colorado

Daydream time is over and its back to the campsite to feed the dogs and put away the wet tent since they spilt the water that we left them. We washed our dishes and refilled our water supply and then went to the visitor center to learn more about how dunes form and don’t just blow away, about the animals that call this place home, and how the dunes could’ve been reduced to a misplaced beach in a landlocked state had it not been preserved from a possible gold rush in the 1920s.

Down the road, after getting gas and eating sandwiches, we come to the Great Divide – the continental backbone of the Western Hemisphere. It follows the crest of the Rocky Mountains north from the Brook Range and south to the Strait of Magellan. The divide helps determine which way water will flow and offers the longest National Scenic Trail through five states, three national parks, and 25 national forests. So as I straddle the bronze line marker I think about history, geography, water, and adventure.

at Treasure Falls

at Treasure Falls

Into the San Juan National Forest and we stop at the interpretive trail of Treasure Falls – where legend has it there is gold cached here from an expedition in the late 1700s. We’re no miners, but we have a love for falling water, wet rocks, bright green moss, lens flares, rocky climbs, tiny snakes, friendly couples, sunny trees, misty decks, and forested blowout overlooks. A nice half hour stop before a forty minute drive to a pyramid with a chimney that entices us to pull over.

It’s Chimney Rock National Monument and there is more to this place than just two ancient stone pinnacles. There is architecture, pottery, history, wildlife, and hiking, but there won’t be any of that for us today. Their kennel offerings (to keep our dogs out of the sun in the car) is to put our dogs in the sun in a cage that one will climb and the other dig under. As much as it may be worth the $12 fee to help fund this park, not even a year old, to see what it has to offer, it’s not in the best interest of all involved – unless I think I could live without the dogs – which today’s answer is no.

Fire Lookout at Mesa Verde National Park

Fire Lookout at Mesa Verde National Park

Following the 160 west it’s easy to fall in love with the clouds of Colorado. They make the roads, trees, and mountains all the more pleasant to look at and the sky more contrasting in photos. I’m lucky to have a husband that allows me to drive erratically, stop frequently, and give him the wheel so I can attempt a picture when I think the view is just right, but there is no place to pull over – on a bridge or a highway with no shoulder. And sometimes the view is just better from the car as we come over a hill than it is on foot after running back up the hill to attempt the same picture.

The next park is somewhere I’ve been before, but it was ten years ago and with a different man in my life – my dad. Mesa Verde National Park is one of the places he took me on his attempt to show me compassion, respect, and love for history, travel, people, and food. I may not have known it at the time, but his way of showing and not pushing or demanding worked, especially when I met the second man in my life – my husband.

panorama at Park Point Overlook

panorama at Park Point Overlook

We got to the only way in the park, the north entrance, at 3:15 pm. Inside the visitor center with a helpful ranger we learn that of course there is not enough time to see everything, but that we have plenty of options for both roads after the fork. There are many lookouts offering different views of the rolling hills in the valley covered in green shrubs, winding roads, yellow rocks, and shadows from the clouds – and that’s just one look at what’s right in front of me because I can see for miles.

Our favorite stop on the North Rim was the Park Point Overlook and the Fire Lookout. There is a closed tower, viewing scopes, informational signs, purple and yellow flowers, eerie branches lining the trail, and enough smutty views of Mother Nature to start her own porn channel. I suppose some parks are already on the sexual highway with live cams available for viewing 24 hours a day – so many plants and animals, oh my! Maybe some parks could get in on the micro fetish and film the tiny building blocks of life.

looking in at the Far View Sites - by Caleb

part of the Far View Sites – by Caleb

After Caleb is able to pull me away we choose to drive down Chapin Mesa Road. It’s not long before we are stopping at the Far View sites. These structures are still very well-preserved. It would be nice to hire the same constructors, or their descendants, to one day build me a home. I’m surprised, and grateful, that though I have the ability to carve my name in the ruins or run and jump on them that it seems no one else has chosen to either. Perhaps it’s the short drive or the even shorter hike that has discouraged delinquents from destroying this place. I am thankful and am sure to take plenty of pictures.

I can imagine the sight of smoke and children playing, the smell of food, and the sound of music and conversation, and the feel of dirt in my toes. I’m tempted to take my shoes off and join these people, but they are long gone by over 600 years. I wonder if there is a place that does reenactments so I may step back in time and stay a moment longer. All but one structure has been left to the elements. The Megalithic House (known for its few megalith walls) is covered in a metal room with sliding windows to let the light in for archaeologists.

looking in a kiva

looking in a kiva

We make the decision now to leave the rest of the park unseen as it’s overflowing with sights to keep us here until after dark. We hope to return one day, to spend the whole day, learning more about these Puebloan people and their tools, trade, basketry, pottery, and especially their dwellings. Our next stop is somewhere we have both been before, but it has since changed drastically. What once was a few booths of turquoise beads and frybread  around some concrete and metal marking the intersection of four states is no longer so.

It was the simpleness that we loved. We were almost confused -thinking at first that we had driven to the wrong place. There is an entrance fee, parking lot, official booths and working hours, and the park is working on trails that show more of the area – which would be worth a look. We talk to a man as he is putting away his knives about getting something to eat (i.e. frybread) and he lets us know that business was slow today and we might have some luck in a town down a road somewhere. Thanks.

panorama at Four Corners

panorama at Four Corners

Though we may be originally sad to see the place change we can appreciate the smiles on all the other visiting faces that are seeing this spot for the first time. Then I wonder if this is what it was like for all the founders of other parks as they watched the untouched nature get paved to bring in more tourists but also to protect it from their trampling footsteps – Yellowstone, Carlsbad Caverns, and Muir Woods to name a few. As I drive into Arizona I feel too close to home. There is plenty to do in this state, but I could turn us around and we could just keep going, but we don’t because we need money to afford these excursions.

Instead we drive into Utah where it will be us versus sunset as we near Monument Valley on our way to the Swingin Steak in Mexican Hat – a favorite every time we’re in the area. This will be our first time coming into town from the east and arriving before total darkness. As our food shows the sun disappears and I get to watch my bearded husband enjoy his medium-well done steak (his second time eating meat on the trip) along with the same toast, pinto beans, and salad that accompany the veggie burger on my plate.

sunset in Monument Valley

sunset in Monument Valley

Though I only left enough ‘food’ on my plate to tease a mouse I look around for the long-haired tan dog that used to be here. Perhaps the mutt settled down and made a family or went on to discover other mountains and meat-filled places, but he has been replaced with cats – quite a few of them that must leave so that I can let the dogs out. While distracted from the table, Caleb must have been busy flirting with the waitress because I return to some brownie bites – I didn’t even know this place had dessert.

As soon as dark comes, while on a road trip, we like to be done driving because we can no longer see the world around us. And then it gives us time to cook, eat, read, write, and relax. Tonight we drive 30 minutes after dinner to find a spot in the desert with covered picnic tables. I feel bad bringing my headlights into the starlit ukulele party, and as soon as we think we can see the sky another car comes screeching into the lot and stirring up dirt – that’ll be $10 please – and she is gone just as quick.

She told us she lives nearby and saw us arrive and hands Caleb a large purple sheet of paper (vehicle pass) that is good for three people on the 14th – oh well. Now we think we can settle down, but not before the last car of the evening sets up right beside us and brings the return of the hostess – making me feel like a caught animal as I wonder what my figure looks like in the tent being lit by her headlights. I get to fall asleep to the sound of singing, lite traffic, zippers, and whispering chatter from our neighbors.

Posted in Art, Camping, Food, Hiking, History, People, Photography, Places, Plants, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Only for Certain People

Posted on September 3, 2013 by TheJessicaness
school in Nicodemus

school in Nicodemus

If last night wasn’t romantic enough, this morning proves even more so. We get to watch the sunrise on the water, take a shower together, and drink fresh made coffee. We thought about washing in the lake, but that moment didn’t last long after we dipped our fingertips in. We arrive at Nicodemus National Historic Site early as usual. We were only camped 15 minutes away. The town, or what remains of it, is what we are here to see. This is where African-Americans were able to become pioneers in the States and set up their own community that remains an all-Black town to this day.

And because people still live here there only needs to be the usual buildings available to the public’s eye – Township Hall/visitor center, St. Francis Hotel/Switzer residence, Old First Baptist Church, African Methodist Episcopal Church, and the School District Number One. These buildings were starting to be established in 1877 and church services were discontinued in the 1950s and classes stopped being offered in the 1960s when the population of the town diminished.

Van Gogh replica

Van Gogh replica

It might not look like much now, but in the 19th century with some 300 settlers and their horses, the dugouts  turned into homes, stores, shops, fraternal organizations, and a bank. The railroad chose a route further south from the town and it began to dwindle – the Great Depression didn’t help either. Today’s population is around thirty people and for anyone that’s ever lived in a small town – you know you can’t do much without everyone else knowing. We had taken the dogs with us on the first walk when we knew everything was closed, but on the second walk to get a better peek at the AME Church a local commented on our love of walking – any faster and one would miss this place.

I sat patiently outside the visitor center waiting on the ranger. She was only five minutes late and showed me where to start the video promptly. It showed the history of the town and the effect it still has on descendants today – this is a great starting point for their freedom – where their family was willing to toil in the difficult earth to farm so that one day their kids could live the American Dream as all citizens had been promised. They still meet annually at the Emancipation/Homecoming Celebration in July to honor family, liberation, history, and food.

beauty at Sand Creek

beauty at Sand Creek

We stop in Hill City (where everyone seems to be over the hill) to buy some snacks. Our next stop won’t be for another hour and 45 minutes. We pull over to put our eyes on the largest Van Gogh replica of Three Sunflowers in a Vase and easel in Goodland, Kansas standing tall at 80 feet – the tallest thing for miles, but not as tall as Mount Sunflower at 4,039 feet. Seeing this art is inspirational and I let Caleb have his second time at the wheel so I can write some sunflower inspired poetry while we drive to Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site.

Here is an excerpt of my writing: Fields of yellow, Hearts of mellow, The way I felt, When you said hello. Corn and wheat, Words of sweet, Sunflower seeds, In your arms I need. Rays of warmth, Blades of cool, Nature’s weaving, Makes me feel like a fool.

We stop at the Colorado state sign and stand in wonder as to how the stickers way above our heads were placed. Photo opportunity over, it’s time to get on to visiting a sad, but educational park that will let us learn more about our ancestors – or the random ruthless settlers that came before us. There are some simple signs, a barn, and a trailer. We don’t feel we will be here long with the temperature at 94 degrees and the dogs in the car. We are greeted by an older woman who gives us each a brochure.

Bent's wagon

Bent’s wagon

One of those simple signs are letters written by leaders of U.S. soldiers that refused to kill the innocent Cheyenne and Arapaho people who had evacuated their land when told. This massacre would lead to a series of raids and retaliation, but also to a better understanding of our relationship with Native Americans. This land remains sacred and a place for education and nature preservation. We head inside to learn more and won’t return for 45 minutes. We talked with Ranger Shawn about other parks to see and he recommended getting the stamp from the Trinity Site in New Mexico.

Caleb adds the ranger’s signature to his collection and we go back to the car to collect our melted dogs. We try to walk them to the repatriation site, monument and overlook, but they look like they’re about to die from heat stroke so we put them in the car with the a/c on high and offer some cold water. There is another road that will get us closer so we take that, leave the dogs in the cool car, and walk around the site. It may be sad, but it’s also beautiful. I drive us to Bent’s Old Fort, a happier version of our history with the Natives.

Colorado sky

Colorado sky

We thought we might get lucky and get in the gate just moments before closing, but this Site closes at 4:00 pm and we are an hour late. We park outside and take the trail at our own risk as we are warned that park animals and hazardous trail conditions may be encountered – it’s flat, dry, and gravel – at least an incident would make for an interesting story on my blog, but there will be no such thing.

The dogs are left at the entrance in the shade as we take to the trail to see this park after hours. There is a large trading post with a wagon and a cannon outside. The ranger doesn’t answer our knock on the thick wooden door so we continue further until we see a teepee. I’m sure I could live there so there would be no problem trading here either. Maybe next time we will arrive at a time when the fort is open so we can see and learn more inside, but as for now the expedition will have to be satisfied with what can be seen from the outside.

Colorado sunset

Colorado sunset

We return to a car full of flies and I roll all the windows down trying to get them out. They wouldn’t bother me so much if they didn’t feel the need to buzz in my face. We enter the town of Walsenburg with food on the mind. The temperature is now 103 degrees so we figure we have three minutes before the dogs die. We run into Safeway and before I can ask to cut in line to buy a box of soup in front of the woman with a cart-full the lady at the register is too rude, so I leave the lunch there and hurry back to Sparky and Piggy.

I’ve never had an issue buying one thing in front of anyone. They are always so kind. That town needs to work on its manners. We have alfredo noodles for tonight’s dinner, but it seems tomorrow’s lunch will be imaginary. The Colorado sky is too beautiful to stay mad long. I know we will figure something out. I can barely drive because I am so mesmerized by the clouds and sun and the colorful show they are putting on.

Sometime after 8:30 pm we will arrive to a dark Pinyon Flats campground in Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. Just as we think we are getting lost a ranger comes by to let us know that the spot we are in front of is available. I walk the $20 to the fee booth while Caleb sets up. We drove 498 miles today putting us over the 50,000 mile mark on the odometer. This place is supposed to be awesome. I guess we will find out in the morning when we wake up.

Posted in Animals, Art, Camping, Food, Forts, History, People, Photography, Places, Poetry, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Denied Food on Labor Day

Posted on September 2, 2013 by TheJessicaness
President and Mrs. Hoover gravesite

President and Mrs. Hoover gravesite

Cronuts for breakfast. Anyone whose had one, that’s not on a diet, should agree that it’s a delicious option – but we are in for a surprise. Still fluffy and light, Caleb has no problem cutting them down the middle. The chocolate hazelnut was like an orgy of flavors in my mouth, but the strawberry mascarpone tasted like soap – the cute pink bars found in small motels, but it’s not what I intended to ingest this morning – so I didn’t.

We are 45 minutes from the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site upon waking. This gives us plenty of time to park, watch the elderly couples walk around, explore the Prairie Trails, visit the gravesite, and take a peek at the downtown historic district. We learned that this treeless landscape used to be fatal in winter and full of summer fires until a young blacksmith invented a steel plow in 1837 – his name was John Deere. This small tool would change the life of West Branch and bring it into its Golden Era of Agriculture.

Hoover collage

Hoover collage

Rangers are making their rounds and buildings are opening their doors. The Presidential Library and Museum looks impressive from the outside and the fee charged helps keep us on schedule. We visit the Friends Meetinghouse where the Quakers held segregated (guys and gals) silent meditation services. At the visitor center we watch a film that shows Hoover’s youth, the impression he made on the world, his fulfillment of presidential duties, and the public services he continued to work on after his time as the 31st in Office.

Traveling on a holiday has its ups and downs – as long as you remember to prepare. We hadn’t. The parks we encounter today are open and not crowded, but it’s our fault that we had to crave perogies and kolaches while heading towards Omaha, Nebraska that’s known for its Czech desserts and availability of a Polish-style dinner. We inquired in a pet store and gas station – the only two places we could see people inside. We settled for leftover pizza and an afternoon walk with the dogs.

small town, Nebraska

small town, Nebraska

Being nearby and enjoying ourselves so much last time we decide to make a return trip to Homestead National Monument of America. A few weeks ago, when this trip began, we had pulled up to the park booth as usual, but this time our annual pass was nowhere to be found. We had left it at home in our smaller passport book and had with us the explorer anniversary edition – sans pass. Luckily the park system is still giving the military a free card and we get one for our larger passport book.

This gets Caleb thinking that now that I have two it’s time he gets one of his own. We buy him the kids’ passport companion and I’m happy to see his eagerness in filling it in. He will get his first chance for a ranger signature (only ones that stand out in conversation, knowledge, and kindness) while at Homestead. We had planned on walking the dogs from the Heritage Center to the Education Center, a distance of about half a mile. That changed when we went inside and met Ranger Molly.

family of the corn - by Caleb

family of the corn – by Caleb

Caleb got to try his hand at making butter and we admired the corn husk dolls made by previous visitors. We started discussing our last visit and an hour later we had talked about travels, education, history, and parks in New Zealand. We had walked out to the car when Caleb made his decision as to who could sign his book. Molly was more than thrilled and honored to be the first to autograph his passport.

The Kansas state sign on the 81-S entrance is unique – as they all are, but I like the way this one incorporates a Latin phrase, “through difficulties to the stars” with 34 stars representing their admittance to the Union in 1861. We stop in Belleville for a snack and upon seeing a f’REAL! gas station milkshake machine (which first caught our eye in a Wawa station on the east coast some years ago) we try a new flavor – cake batter. I’m usually not one for unbaked-goods in other dessert forms, but this cake in a cup included some tasty factors – creamy, frosty, and sweet.

U.S. Center Chapel

U.S. Center Chapel

Further down the road is something we hadn’t thought about. Kansas is known for their collection of the largest this and that, but they also get to claim to have a town as the geological center of the contiguous United States – Lebanon. There are a bunch of different signs, markers, and a corkboard that remind visitors where they are and have newspaper clippings with background information – who found it and when – a government survey in 1898. The landmark here is the chapel that seats 8 with one podium and four windows.

What looks like a short drive on the map always takes longer in reality. The sun is starting to set and we stop to see a house with rocks piled up on the rear and one side to protect from tornadoes. I don’t know if it works or not, but the house is still there. I’m used to seeing the sun’s rays come through the clouds at all bright points in the day. What I have yet to see until now are rays emanating from the horizon. For those that think the Great Plains are boring it’s either because they’ve only seen crop squares as they fly over or they live there and have forgotten to appreciate what makes the state one of the great.

Kansas sunset

Kansas sunset

I stayed with my grandparents once when I was still losing teeth and Caleb and I drove through during winter in 2011 and there have been visits in-between. I’ve seen some of the cities and I’ve seen the cornfields, but I had yet to watch the coming of night in Kansas. We set up camp near the lake at Webster State Park. I got to watch light turn to dark, the stars shine bright and plenty, and to see a childhood favorite – lightning bugs. It’s the simple, natural, and unexplainable parts of my youth, and tonight, that I love best.

Posted in Camping, Education, Family, Food, History, People, Places, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Finding Trouble and a Tent Fan

Posted on September 1, 2013 by TheJessicaness
Indiana Dunes

Indiana Dunes

The last two nights were uneventful at the beginning, but after our night in Tonawanda the Budget Inn owner wanted to repeat that no dogs were allowed – that’s why they were in the car. And last night we had no problem finding a spot near the water amongst the well-lit RVs. It wasn’t until everyone else went to sleep too that the loud cackling stood out – and they were still laughing in the morning when we left before anyone or the sun was up.

We weren’t the only ones out early on the road. We were joined by horse and buggy with efficient rear lights and orange reflective triangles to help them be seen in the heavy fog coating the road for this morning journey. As soon as the fog began to rise so did Sparky and he felt it necessary to announce the passing of each horse, but we made sure he wasn’t too loud or didn’t spook them – that would be less than mannerly.

We had no problem finding the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, the gas pump carved from a tree, or the Lake Michigan beach. We didn’t feel like paying entrance to the state park though because smelting is only available in April and May. We spent some time trying to find the visitor center, but when we did we were able to get a map and figure out where we were going – on the Bailly/Chellberg Trail.

the trail

the trail

It’s a mile loop that takes us by the Chellberg Farm and the Bailly Homestead and introduces us to the life of Swedish immigrants in the 1860s. There is a nice tree-covered path so we decided to bring the dogs with us. Caleb was throwing Sparky’s ball for him until he somehow managed to jump between Piggy and I and break the poop-bag container handle off her leash. After some looking we were able to find the handful of red plastic among the green and brown walkway.

The last time I was in Chicago was the winter of 2004. This would be our first time in the Windy City together and driving on the highway into Illinois and their LED sign warns us to drive safe and buckle up because there has already been 631 traffic deaths this year. I don’t know if it’s more of a warning or a chance to gamble, but when I lived here nine years ago I was taking public transportation. I’ve survived driving in many states and now many provinces – and it’s not raining or snowing. We are quick to look for a parking spot.

I thought it would be cute if we walked on the Navy Pier together. I remember happy feelings in August 2004 when I visited here with my mom, her husband, and my little brother. But I realize as we walk among people drunk at 1:00 pm that I was elated because I had just finished Navy Boot Camp and had my 18th birthday to look forward to. I was going to become an adult with a job that travels and have freedom to do dumb things. It still offers great views of the skyscrapers and the lake.

Chicago Skyline

Chicago skyline

I carried Piggy in the more congested areas, but she does great for being blind. Parking close by cost us $22 and I’m almost ready to leave the city because I don’t want to go broke finding shade for the dogs, but we are on the hunt for the new craze – cronuts – a doughy concoction a baker gets when they mix a donut with a croissant. We get lucky and find free parking near Division St. where Alliance Bakery can be found. They sell three flavors and bad at making decisions we got one of each.

I couldn’t resist and as soon as we got to the car I opened the box and inside sat three croissant-layered, donut-shaped and fried, delectable treats with icing on top. We split the raspberry rose and agreed it was delicious. I love being an adult and eating dessert before dinner at Piece Brewery and Pizzeria less than a mile away. They serve a Camel Toe double IPA and pizza on industrial-sized baking sheets. Service was slow at the start, but then we got an outstanding waitress who did her part to satisfy our meal needs and her tip.

Their pizza choices are red with mozzarella, red without, and white with a list of toppings to fill the page. We get the red without and some spinach and jalapenos to fancy it up. We got lucky arriving on the weekend when Cronuts are served and on a Sunday when Piece offers a large pizza and a growler for $25 – but the deal is that the order has to be to go. No problem, but as we sit at our table with four plates and a pile of napkins we can’t help but eat a slice while we wait for our chocolate mascarpone pizza to go too.

pier view

pier view

It’s a good thing I saved room for dessert and tried it while it was still warm. The cold version is like leftover French fries – something I don’t eat. After nourishment it’s time for  some shopping at REI. The more we camp the more pampering we want. We think back to the days when we used to sleep on sticks and gravel with just a tent and sleeping bag from Wal-Mart between us and dirt – and then we remember that I didn’t sleep, so we got sleeping pads and now I can get a few hours of shut-eye at night.

Our next fancy camping comforts that we are in the market for is a tent fan for the hot and humid nights – which seem to be all of them when falling asleep – except for in the Badlands of South Dakota; and a coffee maker so that we can make our own and not rely on broken-down gas stations seventy miles from the next pot of cold dark water filled with grounds, though Caleb assures me there might be some in my next cup.

The fan has a leg to stand on and a magnet to hang from the top of the tent with a nightlight. We also got a new aluminum alloy spoon because I broke our Light My Fire Spork. And since we’re here – a larger camp towel so we can dry Sparky off more efficiently instead of with one of Caleb’s dirty shirts. Then the coffee maker. When we had made the decision to buy dinnerware we went with a Jetboil Sumo Companion Cup that holds 61 ounces – great for sharing a meal, but too much to drink. So we bought a coffee press and a cup with half the capacity to accompany it.

water patrol

water patrol

With our REI budget spent for the year we are able to get back on the road with a little, or a lot, less money in our pockets, but this outdoor store has yet to let us down when it comes to the quality of their products – well, besides the broken spoon. And drive we must. Tonight we will cross the state of Illinois, the Land of Lincoln, and enter the fourth state for today – Iowa, which I learned is bordered by the Missouri River on the west and the Mississippi River on the east.

We will be sleeping two miles from the water at a nest of a place called Wildcat Den State Park. We set up as the sun is going down and are getting the dogs situated when a truck’s headlights are all over our scene. An old man (that makes me think of Chuck Norris and Woolworths) comes by to collect the $9 fee for the evening and continues on his rounds. The lights come back and so does the man. He wants to let us know that our dome light is on – and that our dog should be on a leash. Sparky was in a tent sleeping until he came by, but we appreciate the courtesy so that our car starts in the morning.

two hours

two hours

Posted in Camping, Education, Food, History, Military, People, Photography, Places, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments

A Minute Late to the Grave

Posted on August 31, 2013 by TheJessicaness
reflective pool at Graycliff Estate - by Caleb

reflective pool at Graycliff Estate – by Caleb

The birthday may be over, but the party isn’t. We start this morning off with some leftover pizza from Sorrenti’s and a trespassing accusation at Frank Lloyd Wright’s Graycliff Estate in Derby, New York. We had plans to follow roads along Lake Erie to Chicago and see stuff along the way, such as Stevo’s Pizza in Erie, Pennsylvania. Our first site happened to be this giant home with shades of brown and tan amongst the trees with lots of windows on the lake. We could’ve pulled all the way up to the front door, but parked by the visitor center and walked back by the garage/guesthouse to the main abode.

As we were staring at stone and admiring the water a husky voice approached us from behind. A large gentleman let us know that what we were doing was considered trespassing. The place is impressive, but also empty. He escorted us back to the office to let us know that he was booked on tours, but he might be able to fit us in a few hours later – an amount of time we didn’t have. We left with a flyer and drove to the state line after stopping to get a view of the lake with industrial buildings and plants growing skinny red cones that looked fuzzy.

Once in the state’s fourth largest city, Erie, (it didn’t seem that large) it was time to eat. We had come to love a fast food burrito chain called Moe’s Southwest Grill that give their customers a “Welcome to Moe’s!” when they enter. So when we found out there was one here we couldn’t help but stop by for my usual Joey Jr. – a small wheat tortilla with black beans, tofu, peppers, salsa, etc. Even though we were headed to Stevo’s Pizza – a little place on State St. that offers pizza, subs, salads, and more – a restaurant that Caleb’s dad, Robert, had suggested we try while in the area.

Garfield Library

Garfield Library

We parked a block away, because the street was blocked off, put some coins in the meter, and made our way through a chollo parade – the worst representation of their home country of Mexico (traditional) we have ever seen – low riding cars, slutty dressed women, and loud music. Or perhaps we just got our first introduction to a new-age style that wasn’t expressed enough in old-age rap videos in the 90s. I may feel bad for the employees that have to listen to the air horns, but this event is good for business. Our broccoli and tomato pizza is hot, boxed, and ready to go.

We are back to the car before the meter expires and though we want to spend more time in this state the border to Ohio is less than an hour away and sixty minutes from there is the James Garfield National Historic Site. I have such an interest in our country’s earlier presidents and I’m sure when the ones of my childhood become history and less dramatic I will be curious about what gets erected in their memory. I will be able to look back, past the blowjob in the Oval Office, the extended war years, and the huge debate over our first black president and know that I lived through a modern version of the 19th century.

In the visitor center museum we get to learn about what made Garfield presidential. He would be the last president born in a log cabin and while in the White House too poor to afford his own horse and carriage for the stable, but he had been able to afford a nine bedroom house and 158 acres. We learned about his educational and religious history and the chain of political jobs leading up to the main office – the one that would get him shot just four months into his four-year term – ending his job and life three months later after doctors struggled to get the bullet out.

Cleveland, Ohio

Cleveland, Ohio

A poster tells us that Garfield was one of six Civil War veterans that fought for the Union Army and eventually became President. We arrived in time to see the museum and take the next guided tour. At least 80 percent of the items in the house are original and they don’t want them stolen. The last part of the tour that used to be a kitchen, and now a small museum, is video-monitored and self-guided. It would be nice if all parks could afford to protect their assets as safely.

It’s a large home that was enlarged, built up, and later added on to. There is a lot of history inside and out that explains the front porch campaigns; the designs behind the carpets, curtains, and wall paper; the fireplaces and portraits throughout the house; the friendships and the fine porcelain dishes; the details in the woodwork, chandeliers, and furniture; the large vault with a safe inside, the pianos, and the large book collection – that would set the precedent for presidential libraries. The house expresses a love for art, history, design, warmth, education, family, and lots of space.

We pass the campaign office and the beautiful windmill and agree on the excellent tour we just got, besides the crossing of tour paths where two voices competed for an audience, but that’s also luck in getting a good ranger. The guide was well-knowledgeable and there was plenty of time, two hours, for questions and picture taking. We return to the car with hot and hungry dogs. We treat them for not eating our pizza, and the box it came in, by sharing some with them before heading to Garfield’s burial site, 17 miles away, at the Lake View Cemetery.

Garfield Monument

Garfield Monument

It took Garfield a week to get buried here, and us just under an hour to drive here, but the glorious centerpiece of the cemetery that is his grave, that looks burnt, closes at 4:00 pm and there will be no going inside for us. We are somewhat bummed as other couples come out with smiles on their faces at the beauty inside. We will have to settle for the view from the steps, all the extravagant headstones, and the love felt inside the Garden Crypts. Caleb picks up a brochure that tells us that for $7,200 plus fees we could for “Everyday, Always & Forever” have a pond view near a chapel with a Brentwood lined burial vault.

We do but a drive-through of downtown Cleveland to drive out to Cuyahoga Valley National Park. The parking lot is full of cars with bike racks because it’s a popular way to get around the park – even after 5:00 pm. We are too late for any indoor activities, but this valley is covered in trails and waterfalls. We trade natural beauty for a night in the car with Buzz Balls (200ml with 20% alcohol), sushi, and black raspberry custard. I tried a sip since I was driving, but I got to laugh until I cried watching Caleb drink a Stiff Lemonade and a Lotta Colada – tasty and stiff drinks.

From Perrysburg, we drive into the sunset watching the corn, clouds, and colors go by. We still have another 45 minutes before we reach Harrison Lake State Park. Nothing stands out about this place – just another spot to sleep for the night, but it will remain special to us. It’s another dot on the map, a place we have been, and another memory to add to our minds. We have been on the road for three weeks now averaging 363 miles a day so this park may not make it to our 80-year-old brain’s memories, but it took sleeping here to help the rest of the trip happen. I have to learn to appreciate the mundane more so that the fantastic will continue to stand out and be the stories I share with others.

sunset in Ohio

sunset in Ohio

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