I’m feeling hungrier this morning, so after my daily banana, I mix a few cereals into my bowl since there are so many on offer. Today’s first dive is at Pixie Gardens. Caleb had the crew switch us to nitrox (less nitrogen means more bottom time, but not as deep) to reduce my fatigue. I average 24ft for 54 minutes and see lyretail anthias, bar jack, jackknife fish, diagonal-banded sweetlips, Christmas tree worms, and a nurse shark. This site has little crevices, some we can swim up to and others we can swim through.

I’m in the dining room awaiting my next meal when I hear a guitar accompanied by singing coming from the pilot house because the door is cracked open. I step inside and congratulate Trevor, the skipper, on the song. He puts down the instrument to show me the fire cameras (engine room, kitchen, electric panel) and his tiny steering switch since a little piece broke off. We talk about his upcoming bike trip with the engineer, Guido, before another crew member comes in looking for my face. They are to have a buddy and make sure all co-workers and guests are accounted for before moving the boat. Your voice will suffice if otherwise indisposed.

Breakfast is served, and we’re not the only ones having trouble hearing. One guy asked for ear drops, not swimmers’ ear, but the wax removal kind available in the country. I take a nap, and Caleb wakes me before the dive brief call, which is announced throughout the ship via Kerrin. I notice a toe blister, and after the waterproof bandaid fails to stick, I grab a fabric bandage and hide the problem. Cod Hole is so named for the large potato grouper that appears like a pet waiting on a treat. Our group didn’t pet him either, though I wanted to; I was afraid I might accidentally get the inside of his mouth (but wasn’t worried about that with sharks).

I average 22ft and go down to 38ft. I’m swimming towards the boat after a few other divers, and the cod is magically pulling me back down towards him. I must avert my eyes and stay on mission. During the 53 minutes, we see pineapple sea cucumbers, trumpetfish, bicolor chromis, a potato grouper, and a map puffer. There are another 50 species on each dive that don’t go unnoticed, just unidentified or already mentioned. I take a hot shower to warm up and wash my face out. Upstairs, we share our injury stories and talk about other people’s kids (which is always the best).

I could get used to having my fruit pre-cut, my salads pre-made, and a soup of the day. Back in the room to relax a bit, and eventually find myself in front of a serving platter of key lime pie squares. Maria likes to surprise a guest on board by making their local dessert. That’s definitely a way to try new things. She did a great job, and the kitchen was impressed with how many I could eat, after I made sure other divers and crew had at least seen them. A rainbow came out to act as a beautiful backdrop for the snorkelers in the water watching the three minke whales circle the boat.

After that excitement, the conversation moved to prior travels and future experiences yet to be had. I don’t know why I felt surprised when we saw all the fancy camera gear, even if just the newest GoPro (Hero 13) with lights, since this is the most time and money we’ve spent on a dive trip. These people want to remember what they saw in greater detail than the Hero 8 and 10 can offer. After an Indian-themed dinner and a mini-pavlova (a local dessert), many guests are taking seasickness meds in preparation for tonight’s trip and looking through their photos. Phoebe got a picture of me with the cod.