A Ferry Day

dining room at the Embassy Inn

dining room at the Embassy Inn

Victoria is great. We had plans to stay longer, but like all other good things this too ends sooner than we want…dinner turns to shit, trees into paper…but vacations remain as memories, souvenirs, and blog posts. We have our complimentary breakfast downstairs that consists of coffee, eggs, toast, and potatoes. There was also sausage and bacon or a menu to order from. We learn from the paper and people around us that this weekend is also the Highland Games and Celtic Festival – we picked a good time to visit.

cake shaped soap

cake shaped soap

We take the 17 North to Swartz Bay Terminal where we will catch the ferry to Tsawwassen – a town 30 km south of Vancouver.  For this ride, I’m given 45 minutes to explore the area before departure. We are parked in lane 4 of at least 54 lanes, but not all ferries are going to the same island. It would be great to come back and island hop with my bicycle. There is coffee, chips, and flax rolls to eat. And some jewelry, soap, and glass frogs to buy. I’m not hungry or smelly, but I do have to use their washroom facilities before returning to the car.

feryside

We are parked on the 4th deck and given two decks inside for sitting. There is a shop with chocolate, pajamas, books, makeup, and other accessories. They have a vending machine with headphones and SD cards from Best Buy, a play area for toddlers, and an arcade room. Outside are three levels for viewing – 2 on levels 5 & 6 on the sides with access to the front on level 6, and level 7 with benches from side to side. I will explore and then spend most of the ride in the front where only a few others choose to brave the wind for moments before returning to the windless indoors or to the designated smoking areas.

twoview

There is a room up front on level 5 where you can pay $12 for quiet, coffee, snacks, and a newspaper. There is a restaurant with a $17 breakfast buffet, a smaller shop with some warm/cold food options, and then a café express with coffee and sandwiches. Outside there are mountains, ocean, birds, wind, campers on the shore, houses, wildflowers, another ferry with tons of people on the deck, clouds, and waves, but no whales.

man reading right to left

man reading right to left

Two hours (1.5hr ride and 30 min of un/loading) is not long enough and soon we are back on shore, but this is good too as it’s all new. 20 minutes later and we are in the Idle Free Zone and 1,600 meters from the Canada – USA Boundary where the Peace Arch Provincial Park is. I want to get out and play with the other families, but I may get left or we would forfeit our spot in line. By 12:40 pm we are back on United States soil and stuck in tourist traffic that will last a while on Hwy 5 as visitors from overseas and up north drive to Seattle and Portland on their way to San Francisco and Yellowstone.

enjoying the view, quiet, and wind

enjoying the view, quiet, and wind

We get to the Oregon border at 5:30 pm with the help of trail-mix, gum, and a stop at Starbucks – I got a vanilla blonde roast with a shot of espresso. We arrive at Shilo Inns in Grants Pass after 9:00 pm, but no worries as their outdoor heated pool is open along with the 24-hour steam and sauna rooms. I grab a towel and my dad grabs his laptop. The sauna is first and I read that it can get up to 160-180 degrees – the same temperature that the USDA considers meat well done.

welcome

I swim a few laps before getting in the steam room – feels like I’m standing in a public shower while others wash and reminds me of the gas mask room in boot camp training. I think the timer is broken on the sauna so I turn it closer to off and get back in for a little more sweating. The heat of the room burns my nostrils and I head back to the room sooner than I planned to shower and sleep – being so relaxed it will come easy tonight. I need to look into using the sauna at a local hotel or gym when I get home.

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Tomato Flavored Rain Forest

emergency calls only

emergency calls only

It is raining when we wake – we are in Washington. We stop in at the Kalaloch Lodge for breakfast at 8:00 am. I have three buckwheat pancakes with blueberry/marionberry warmed spread and there are no leftovers as they are not bigger than my head. We reach the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center in Olympic National Park at 10:00 am and everything is so green. The rain has let up and there will be a few drops on us along the trail.

Inside, we learn that one of the trails is closed because a mother moose has her calf there and is feeling territorial. We thank the ranger for the notice and head on to the Hall of Mosses where we will spend 2.5 hours to see 3/4 mile of rainforest and still feel that we missed so much, but we have some schedule to keep. Some spots are like diorama-sized ecosystems needing more time to study the green, brown, white, yellow, orange, and black that the plants and animals have to offer.

the intimate forest

the intimate forest

This is my first time seeing a black slug and it really contrasts with its air hole which to me seems like a safety hazard, but I’m sure it thinks the same thing about my gaping mouth. I pull my jaw up and take a picture as I continue to be amazed at just how much this planet has to offer – the more I learn, the less I know. Then my eyes see something they find hard to comprehend – 190 feet worth of tree laying on the ground – seeing only half of it before going up the hill to find the other half and the trunk minus the top part of the tree that is no longer attached or nearby – which could add another 30-110 feet – impressive!

bossteam

I make sandwiches once we get back to the car. We need to get on the road. We arrive to the Black Ball Ferry Line at 3:30 pm and will be the last car in line – perhaps the only one without reservations – and they board at 5:00 pm with departure 20 minutes later – the last one for the day. This gives me 80 minutes to explore the town of Port Angeles. I walked across the street to Necessities & Temptations – they had beads, chocolate to eat and wear, shiny kitchen appliances, Christmas ornaments, local shirts, and children’s books of the classic adult stories.

Next door is the Art Front Gallery with ceramics, textiles, metal, glass, etc. with some in the making. I got to watch Cindy Elstrom make some cups while we chatted for a bit – she is friendly and talented. Then I crossed the street again to visit the mall on the harbor – just some restaurants and such and I was soon back outside. There were two buses waiting for the ferry too and I happened to run into some of the boys – I can’t remember where they are from, but a lot of schools in the area are sending their kids across the Strait of Juan de Fuca for Victoria Day to march in the parade and celebrate the Queen’s 63 years as ruling monarch – the longest in the U.K.

ladies in the forest

ladies in the forest

There is a lookout tower at the end of the pier that I was making my way towards when I noticed a little boy playing in the sand and water – I wanted to play too. There was a couple that buried their daughter in the sand and a mom with two boys – one searching for crabs and the younger one running around and playing around the beach logs. The mom was happy to tell me that most people come to the area for the transgender conference, mountain biking – what her husband is doing, and the local art. She pointed out the ferry arriving and I was on my way.

minifor

My dad was back in the car taking notes and soon we were on our way. When the ferry took off some of the kids took to planking – why look at the scenery when this deck is so interesting…maybe had they gotten 20 or more of them to do it and then do some other viral videos they could’ve made a viral compilation – the new thing, but only six kids participated before they saw me attempting a scene from Titanic – the one on the front of the ship – not in the car. It was fun to try, but no good photo was taken.

We talked to a couple from Buffalo, NY (where my dad was born) that now lives in Houston, travels (no camping), and spoils their grandkids every summer. Talked to a former marine (didn’t look or act like it) about engineering, photography, and his wife. I asked a few other people with large cameras if they had seen any whales – this area being popular for sightings of the orca, gray, and minke species, but no such luck.

Cindy's hands at work

Cindy’s hands at work

I will receive my first passport stamp at 7:15 pm in Victoria, BC, Canada. I’m curious as to why he skipped the first three pages – I’m so meticulous about my national park passport and stamps in there are upside-down. I enjoy the randomness of it, especially after enduring the awkwardness of telling the border officer about my ‘criminal’ offense (driving without a license because it got suspended due to underage drinking) that happened over six years ago.

Learning we are here during a busy holiday my dad pulls into the first hotel he sees and they tell us we might have luck around the corner – we do. Tonight we will be staying at the Embassy Inn in a room with a balcony and a view. There is a stove and a teapot with other dishes in the mini-kitchen and makeup remover among the toiletries in the washroom. We throw our bags down and head out to the city to enjoy the rest of the daylight – even though we are both hungry. We saved our appetites to try something new.

sign on Port Angeles beach

sign on Port Angeles beach

Our hotel is next to the BC Legislature Bldg. and it’s a beauty. We will enjoy taking pictures of it with and without sunlight. The signs are different, the stores are different, and the street finds (mailbox, loo, lamps) are different too. I am overwhelmed with newness. Some of the signs are neat for what they say and others for what they don’t – their one-way and yield signs are just an arrow and triangle because symbols are easier to understand across multiple languages – and to fit on the small sign.

There are a lot of brick buildings and people on bicycles. There are a lot of references to the color red, maple leaves, and the question – Eh? I feel we are in the touristy district and I’m fine with that. Being in the States I see new signs, new food, different weather patterns and the tourist district is saved for airports, gas stations, and ocean front stores – or maybe Canada is just really proud of syrup and moose – both found in BC. My dad is feeling generous and buys me a gray and maroon shirt – Victoria Canada since 1863.

boat in the water

boat in the water

Our next stop is LUSH fresh handmade cosmetics. They have soap, creams, pastes, bath bombs, perfumes, and more in cute shapes, varying colors, and in bowls, jars, bins, tubs, tubes, and simply wrapped in plastic. I get a chunk of Sexy Peel marmalade soap and a travel size Gorilla perfume 25:43 with hints of citrus and vanilla. My dad asks about vegetarian-friendly restaurants and the sales associate recommends Re-Bar Modern Food – something close, yummy, and open late.

We still have some time to hold hands and skip down the street. Then we admire the buildings, signs, shop fronts, felted boob in a bowl, and a comic shop full of card players – how neat! We sit down to eat at 9:20 pm. We order the eggplant-cilantro soup, a roast beet salad, miso poutine, and a tempeh Reuben on rye with sweet potato fries and a house-made bbq sauce for dipping. I got a 22 oz. of Fat Tug IPA to wash my food down and my dad stuck to water. We order the raspberry cheesecake to go and stop by 7-11 for ice.

BC Legislature Building

BC Legislature Building

Even something as simple as a convenience store offers up plenty of new things, or old items with different names, that I haven’t seen before. They have All Dressed Ruffles, a bulk candy selection, and a Beaver Buzz energy drink. It is neat to be in another country and notice the little things that may seem mundane back home. We get back to the room at 11:00 pm to free Wi-Fi and warm showers. It has been a fun day and the energy is high – sleep will hopefully come soon as we are waking up at 6:00 am regardless.

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Life In the Slow Lane

a yurt

a yurt

Part of life in Oregon, and especially Washington, is the amount of annual rainfall. We are lucky to wake up to clear skies, though being here we feel lucky enough – and brought protective gear for the cameras, that unlike us, may melt or malfunction in the rain. Breakfast will be had on our porch out of the camp cooker (we forgot bowls). It is quick oatmeal with dried fruit – and hot enough to burn the hungry tongue that finds it difficult to yield to steaming nourishment.

We head out on the Valley Trail around 8:00 am with some PBJ and banana sandwiches. Perhaps halfway through with our mile and a half and we pass one lady going the other way. We average 35 minutes per quarter-mile. We will walk mainly in rainforest, then cross the street to the Hobbit Trail to more forest that will take us down to the beach where we will be joined by ten other people – not a crowded day for such a beautiful place.

clearing at Carl Washburne State Park

clearing at Carl Washburne State Park

There are plenty orange-bellied Taricha granulosa (aka newts), centipedes, and slugs of varying color – yellow, green, and brown – to be watched out for while crunching on leaves, sticks, moss and other rainforest floor findings. We take pictures of new growth and old fungus. There are sprouting flowers and eaten leaves as forest critters forage for sustenance. We enjoy watching their speed – slow – and imagine how large their world looks and how blessed we are to be able to see on the scale from micro to macro – even if it is with the help of technology.

peek at Oregon coast

peek at Oregon coast

We emerge onto the beach 3.5 hours after we started. We will spend an hour on the beach – my dad in boots and me holding my shoes with my pants getting wet. We enjoy the really low tide. There has to be 20-50 feet of not-usually exposed beach – I’m a bad judge of size. I get to see my first mole crab (reminds me and Dad of a trilobite – species that went extinct 250 million years ago). One seems to be a female swimming on the sand and depositing orange oil (eggs) as she goes. Others that came before her are either just their exoskeletons from molting or have become food for the birds.

Dad enjoying low tide

Dad enjoying low tide

We come across a starfish that is bent over in agony. He has begun to dry out, but some of his tube feet are still moving, so I pick him up gently and set him down in a nearby pool (hopefully with friends – perhaps he was thrown out of the group – let’s hope not). My camera battery decides to call it quits so it’s up to my eyes to see the rocks, sand, waves, sky, anemones, and greenery. And it’s always up to my nose to smell the salty and the fresh; and my skin to feel the rocks, clams and oysters, starfish, sand, and sun; and my ears to hear the birds chirping, the shells clacking, and the waves crashing.

mole crab

mole crab

Back to the yurt by 12:30 pm and I wash my feet and eat a slice of pizza. We stop at Devils Churn and the Spouting Horn, but there will be no oceanic performances with no tide or storm to push the water up through the rock formations – the view is still nice. Next on our list of places to stop will be Newport Café. I order a breakfast burrito and my dad gets a steak – his first in a long time (as having a veg wife for 13 years will help to change your meat-eating habits). We enjoy replenishing calories burned and get a t-shirt for the wife that couldn’t join us today, physically, but is here with us in spirit.

Siletz Bay, Lincoln City, Oregon

Siletz Bay, OR

After finishing the burrito I think about how tasty it was and that if I would’ve stopped 3/4 of the way through when I got full I would still have some for later – too late now. We are back on the road heading towards cheese with an estimated arrival time of 2.5 hours – there’s always room for dessert! We stop at the Tillamook Cheese Factory for a scoop of marionberry pie and huckleberry ice cream then drive over to Blue Heron French Cheese Company for some smoked brie. We would’ve stopped at Debbie D’s Sausage Factory for some dried salmon for Caroline, but she is closed today.

Nehalem Bay, OR

Nehalem Bay, OR

We make it into Washington at 7:00 pm and pull over to talk with Caroline, watch the sunset, scare off the elk with all our camera clicking, and listen to a Medix guy have fun with his outdoor PA speakers – singing and saying hi. We are glad to know we aren’t the only ones enjoying the day, but that will only go so far into the night. We will pull into Aberdeen after 9:00 pm and into the parking lot of the Thunderbird Motel. Did we get the cheapest deal in town – yes. Did we get good sleep and showers – no.

Willapa Bay, WA

Willapa Bay, WA

My dad tells me I should have warned him about the signs of a ‘good’ place – no visitors after 10 pm, place under surveillance, and a security night window for the lobby. There are some stains on the wall, but at least we don’t stick to the floor (that’s another story). I figure the place can’t be that bad because the room has a fridge and TV with remote and neither are bolted down, but that was before we saw the bathroom or the bed sheets. The pillows were just flat, the sheets had mysterious chunky stains, and the bathroom – an explosion of human fluids and hair.

I made a sandwich and got to Skype with Grandma. We survived, and it makes the experience even more memorable and something we can look back on and laugh about, but sleep would be short-lived. In the morning, we will find out that where we stayed is the last place anyone living in the town would recommend. We talk with the baristas about popular people from Aberdeen – the most famous one being Kurt Cobain whose memorial committee had a tribute sign “Come As You Are” added to the town’s welcome sign.

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Need More Redwoods

Hwy 5 heading into Oregon

Hwy 5 heading into Oregon

We are close to tonight’s destination, like 4-5 hours driving time, so we decide on another detour. This one will take us back through the Redwoods, across the 299 to Redding, up Hwy 5 through Weed, to Eugene where we turn west on the 126 to Florence, then north on the 101 to arrive at Carl Washburne State Park where we will be spending the night in a yurt after listening to the couple next to us argue – about what…I doubt they remember either and it just made us appreciate our ability to relax and enjoy the moment.

The Redwoods were beautiful and green, the Trinity National Forest just as scenic the second time through, and Mt. Shasta was hidden in clouds and covered in snow. I have now been through Eureka and Yreka – one of which is only in California. The 126 offered me another view of Oregon and more Gorse than my eyes have ever seen – a bright yellow flower best seen in bunches in full sunshine. And though they look soft and inviting to lay on they are a thorny evergreen shrub.

sunset on the 101 - stopped in the middle of the road

sunset on the 101 – stopped in the middle of the road

We stopped along the coast to get pictures of the sunset (and so did the guy behind us that stopped to take this same photo) – and good thing we did because after checking in with the camp host and driving across the street to the beach and running through the trees we had seen the last of the sun for the day, though the muted sky still gave a nice color to the reflections on the beach, but not enough to get a good photo of the dew drops on the pink flowers on the way back to the car without using flash.

Tonight would be another warm meal for dinner, but where should we go at 9:00 pm on a Thursday. Our city choices were 12, 20, and 35 miles away – we chose, Florence, the closest – that would make our total mileage for the day around 700. We arrive at Abby’s Pizza at 9:30 and order a pizza with pineapple and peppers and some fried potato slices. With full bellies and some pizza to-go we head back to the yurt. There is a bunk-bed and a futon for sleeping and a table with two chairs.

I’m used to sleeping on the top bunk – from toddler to teenager when the sis and I finally split our beds and slept on opposite sides of the room. Tonight will be no different. It will be like all those summer camps I never went to. As a kid we camped out on our porch, then our trampoline, and when we got older and braver we finally camped at the East Rock – a scenic view on the edge of our 20-acre farm. My love of camping would grow from this and now I sleep in forests, deserts, and in a yurt near the beach.

dew drops on an Oregon beach plant

dew drops on an Oregon beach plant

There are plenty of windows on the walls, but the one I like most is the skylight – though not many stars can be seen through the trees canopy that has grown above. There is also a heater so I don’t have to worry about being snug in my sleeping bag, but I realize I wouldn’t mind a bigger camping pillow. Currently mine is just enough for sleeping in the office – something you place between your neck and shoulder. My dad’s rolls up just as small and is more plane/train size and more supportive of people rolling in their sleep.

When I move I have to find my pillow and put it back under my neck, but after adjusting I sleep well – so well that my dad brings it to my attention in the morning. He realizes how much more of a morning person I am after not dealing with a night of being walked on and barked at – he speaks of how much my dogs interrupt my sleep pattern and my overall travel schedule – worrying about feeding and walking them, having their noise interrupt the peace of the day, and wondering which parks and hotels they’re allowed in. This is something I had gotten used to, but now I can appreciate the break from my ordinary – that’s one thing vacations are supposed to be about.

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North to Crescent City

flower on the roadside

flower on the roadside

Up at 6:05 am and didn’t feel like getting out of bed yet. Dad being on the computer bought me 15 minutes, then I showered, changed my camera battery, and brushed my teeth. We were ready to leave by 6:45 and with yesterday’s detour it was determined that we needed to get in some highway mileage today. We took the 99 towards Sacramento and then took Hwy 5 to Red Bluff. We headed west on the 36 and pulled over for lunch. 15 minutes later and we stopped again – this time to photograph a shoe tree.

our lunch time view

our lunch time view

We stop in Patina for water, and then take an 11 mile detour into the Trinity National Forest looking for a vista point. We didn’t find an official sign for the vista point, but we found some good views after navigating past the fallen trees in the road that it looked like someone else had run over for us. We debated continuing on thinking we might hit a dead-end and cost ourselves more of the day, but it worked out. At the end of the road was a sign pointing us back to the 36W towards the town of Mad River.

close-up of the shoe tree

close-up of the shoe tree

We reach the Redwoods by 4:00 pm and cover 30 miles in an hour and a half. We both want more time here – we always do, but there is more to be seen that is new to my eyes. We find beach and spend some time with our feet in the sand until a whale, that my dad has noticed, captures our attention. It may be a mother and her calf. We watch for a while as the spouting lump makes its way north too.

my pedis in the Pacific

my pedis in the Pacific

Tonight’s resting stop will be Crescent City. I don’t know if it’s the season or the latitude, but the sun seems to keep the sky illuminated longer than I’m used to or maybe I don’t get outside enough. I’m not complaining. With all this extra sunshine I get to see more of what the day has to offer. I hop in the shower and turn the hot water to half heat – still enough to make my skin red. I was going to stay in there longer, but realized it was still bright out.

Dad enjoying the surf and sand

Dad enjoying the surf and sand

Dad stayed behind to Skype the wife. I walked across the street to the harbor to get some pictures of boats and water. There’s a lot more than that to see here, but I hear seals and I want to get closer. I walk to a couple dead-ends before finding the road that will bring me around. There are two floating docks covered in seals. There are feral cats chasing each other in the parking lot. There are a lot of fishermen/women on the rocks. I continue on and there is a small path leading up to a hill. On one side is the ocean and in the low tide I can see starfish in the pools.

beach near Redwoods

beach near Redwoods

I hike up to the top and can get a good view of the city, the coast, and the lighthouse. I walk out on the jetty. Some parts are paved easing navigation, but the darkness grows when I reach the end. Luckily it’s near the Coast Guard shack and fisher’s pier so there is some light to help me back to land. Dad and I had discussed a warm meal, but couldn’t decide on anything earlier. I feel I’ve been gone long enough that he may have already eaten and I will have to fend for myself. All the restaurants I pass are closed. It’s 9:00 pm and I see a place with an alcohol sign on – the upstairs is still open.

fishing gear at the harbor

fishing gear at the harbor

I walk inside Good Harvest Café and sit at the bar. I ordered a pint of Earth Thirst IPA (made by Eel River Brewing Co.) from Karen. It was so good that I debated getting another, but it seems I got the last of the keg. I order a veggie pasta that comes with garlic bread and a choice of soup – veggie. I ordered the carrot cake to go and made my way back to the room. My dad says the cake isn’t the best he’s ever had. Today’s fun has been had. I want to take another shower, but my full stomach tells me to sleep instead.

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