Checking Things Off My Lists

Aunt Jamie, Caleb, Grandma Kitty

Aunt Jamie, Caleb, Grandma Kitty

Today will be an accomplished day…just like every other day I choose to blog about. Tent, dogs, showers, car…blah, blah…morning routine. We don’t want to arrive too early to Grandma Kitty’s house (Caleb’s maternal grandma), so we take a dangerous trek into a diseased tree area where branches may drop and trees may fall. We knock on her door at 8:00 am and she has already eaten breakfast and we hear roommates moving around. I am so happy that Caleb gets to spend any amount of time with family since they are so distant and many without the means to travel like we do.

Caleb tells her about our trip so far, we take a look at her plants’ progress in the backyard, and then the photo books come out while we sit on the couch – the ones with pictures that you can’t have printed anymore. There are some of Terri giving birth to Jessi and of Grandma skinny dipping in the local watering hole. There are others of the kids at the zoo, at home, and at the lake – all of these taken over 20 years ago. Our visit is cut short because Grandma has an appointment and we get lucky that Aunt Jamie is picking her up.

twohorse

We thought we would have more time to visit with her and then begin to wonder whether Grandma will make it on time as Jamie is running late. To us it seems she does it on purpose to avoid meeting us but for a moment – and that’s all it is…enough to take a picture and they are getting in the car. Her excuse was that she got railroaded (meaning she got rushed into doing something). But this encounter is enough for me to check meeting her off the list.

We’ve spent over two hours in SeaTac and it’s time for us to go to the middle of Seattle where the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park (Seattle Unit) is located so that we may cross another park off the list. The more we see, the more that are created. It may be more difficult than we thought to see them all in a lifetime. We find shaded parking across the street and $15 will buy us three hours to explore.

Seattle became a busy port of stampeders in 1897 preparing for their passage via ship to the trail in the Yukon that would lead them to gold. Out of the estimated 100,000 people who left for the Klondike only 20% found gold, only 0.003%  of them made more than $15,000 in gold, and only 50 of those people were able to keep it to amount to something. The ones who made the most money at these events were the people selling gold pans and hot coffee at highly inflated prices.

All this at the expense of the local tribes having their land sold to the States by the Russians who might still be upset that they didn’t find the gold first. Or how things might have turned out had the Indians never helped the miners over Chilkoot Pass. Or how much more of Alaska would still be unexplored had it not been for the thrill of the wealth hunt. Greed plays a bad role in teaching cultures and families about the best ways to get along.

July 22, 1897

July 22, 1897

Caleb got a picture of a book from the 5th Annual International Sourdough Reunion held in Los Angeles in September of 1933. This group is interested in the pioneers of Alaska and preserving the history of the north and is holding their 85th reunion in Seattle this year. We were glad to find such close parking to the Park and within walking distance of the Market Theater which happens to be home to the famous Seattle Gum Wall.

The tradition started in 1993 and as we walk up to it (realizing we have no gum to add) it’s just as big and sticky and artful as I could’ve imagined. We hear lots of ‘ewws’, and ‘it’s so gross’, and ‘nasty’, etc. but I find the wall enticing – and like all good ideas mine came too late. I thought about pretending to lick the wall (or did I) to see how many more people I could disgust at this expression of boredom and creativity.

yelotip

I can now check off seeing one of the Top Five Germiest Attractions; though also on the list is placing your hand in the prints left by the famous in the Forecourt of Grauman’s Chinese Theater in Hollywood. Maybe I’m just not a germiphobe like the writers of the article or the people they interviewed. If only we had more time and hadn’t taken the dogs out of the car that was starting to shine in the sun we could have ridden the Great Wheel that stands 175 feet tall and opened on Pier 57 in June 2012 with tickets costing $13 per person except for the gondola with the glass floor.

There are tons of shops, a few musicians, a couple making out, a fountain, and a line of traffic on every street and we still manage to walk Piggy without anyone hitting her. Caleb stays outside with the dogs to watch the city worker play knee-high chess while his coworkers do their job (perhaps he’s just the supervisor) while I go inside to Grand Central Bakery and Café to order us a veggie sandwich on Peasant Levain bread.

It feels nice to have so many bread options at what appears to be a simple café, but in a city of bakeries each has to have something special to offer. We split that and the pickle spear sitting at a metal table in the shade with the dogs at our feet. I like being in a big city, but having that romantic feeling that it’s just us floating through all these new experiences. We make our way past the Fallen Firefighters Memorial dedicated in 1995 to four that lost their lives.

On the other side of the park is CenturyLink Field – home of the Seahawks (football) and the Sounders (soccer), and then it’s back to the car to drop the dogs off after realizing we have more time on our paid ticket. It’s different being in a city that requires its guests to pay to park, but I suppose it makes the residents feel safer knowing visitors must have lots of money to visit and are less likely to rob them…or that when someone does lose their job they have lots of wealthy homes and cars to choose from.

Our first stop is Cow Chips Cookies for a Mock Baby Ruth for me and a Nutty Cow for Caleb. While walking we get to see a weird sculpture, the entrance to something that was moved, a water fountain (almost as ancient as payphones), some colorful murals, and Waterfall Garden Park (also the birthplace of UPS). The falls are at least two stories tall running over large rocks with bushes and trees creating shade to sit in the chairs and on the concrete bench that runs the length of the relaxing corner in such a busy city. That will end this visit’s tour of Seattle and we will miss being in a part of the world that has so much to offer to the ears, eyes, stomach, feet, buttocks, and brain.

gumwall

We have a big map book that contains the U.S., Mexico, and Canada with little red squares of sites to see. I ask Caleb if there are any on our way to Wenatchee Campground where we will be spending the evening as we had a change of plans due to a phone conversation with Uncle Ed that gave us a heads up on the road closure in the Cascade Mountains due to forest fires and mud slides – and his reply is yes.

Unknowingly to my BEP list, #51 back home, I agree to visit Big Four Mountain Ice Caves. Even with some construction, which we will see plenty of on the trip, we make good time and are soon on one of the easiest trails because it’s mostly boardwalk. The railing is high enough to keep Piggy from falling over, but the sound of a bridge still makes her nervous. I could just carry her across, but she needs the exercise as much as we do being in the car for such long periods.

I know some people make short life lists – get married, have kids, live in a house with a picket fence, drive a fancy car, and watch the game on a big screen TV. Others want to climb the tallest mountain, dive the deepest ocean, or fall dangerously in a squirrel suit. Some people will accomplish all their goals and others will look back on a semi-failed life. Being able to say that I did something on my bucket list makes me proud. We should all follow our dreams – no matter how silly as long as the end goal is being smarter and happier and sharing that with others.

handpen

The path turns to gravel as we turn a corner and see the waterfall that carves the caves in the pit of ice covered in snow that remains in the shade each year never fully thawing before the next snowfall. Then come the signs that we may fall into the ice and die or that the snow may fall and kill us – not the safest attraction we’ve been too, but also not the most dangerous. There is another sign saying our decision can be the difference between life and death and that medical help will take an hour to get here.

We do go off the trail which is dangerous enough, but only close enough to get two pieces of ice – one for Sparky to ‘shave’ with his paws and one for Piggy to lick. The snow is in constant drip while in direct view of the sun. We leave as soon as an Asian dad and son begin to hike up on the snow and don’t feel so bad as we pass the wife and daughter further down the trail (afraid to get too close) and hope the wife’s a doctor.

I can appreciate this moment even more. I remember when my dad went to Alaska and I couldn’t wait to see a picture of him on a glacier, but then I saw the videos of what a tiny crack can do to such a massive amount of frozen water – it’s enough to redesign the area, even if only temporarily by killing whatever lays in its way. So lesson learned: pretty things that can be dangerous too should be admired from a distance, not tested once proven fatal.

boardwalk to Big Four Ice Caves

boardwalk to Big Four Ice Caves

On the way back I notice more flowers, more white-barked trees, and a northern green frog. Caleb notices a stick by the river that he can throw in the water for Sparky to catch. I never let Caleb throw it farther than he can jump in and save Sparky should a wave or current ever catch him off guard. The water is cold, but Sparky knows he has a lap with a blanket in the sun waiting on him when we get back to the car, and me another item to check off a list – my bucket list!

The caves were a bit of a detour and I’m starting to get hungry so we pull over into Doug’s RV parking lot in Sultan while Caleb makes me mac-n-cheese. Doug or some other creepy guy stood in the back door and watched us the whole time. I was waiting for him to walk over and ask us to leave and when he didn’t I should’ve thanked him, but I took the finished noodles from Caleb and started eating while I put the car in reverse.

ethel

sign in a shop in Leavenworth

There is such a difference, for me, between being a passenger or driver – perhaps it’s a control issue, but I can still appreciate where someone else has taken me. I remember the familiar road turns and mountain views as we near Leavenworth, WA – a city I was lucky enough to visit two months ago with Uncle Ed and Aunt Lorraine while taking this same route in the back of their jeep.

This time the street lights are on and the shops are closing, but we are still able to sample some hot sauce in the store on the end of the main street and I can show him the entrance to the restaurant where I had kasespaetzle. We walk along the road behind this one, but find more darkness, drunks on skateboards, and a wooden fountain. We stand near the car and stare up at a building lit with Christmas lights. It could be lit with flaming turds, but we’re together and that makes everything more romantic. We make use of a nearby trashcan for a few items before leaving.

Thirty minutes later and we are pulling up to a lit park ranger booth at Wenatchee Confluence State Park where the man inside is pleased to tell us that he has two overflow spots left – we’ll take one. We pay our $23 and he gives us directions – down the road, left by the fence, and park by the RV. So we go down the road, run over a six-inch-square log about four feet long, and park near a picnic table.

Sparky and Piggy

Sparky and Piggy

Caleb starts to set up the tent as I make my way to the little girls’ room across a large party with glow sticks, a projector, a theater-sized popcorn maker, a large dog, and plenty of beer. I notice that the showers need tokens, not coins, and make a note to tell Caleb. On the way back I pass another couple that is unsure where to camp, so I assure them any table will be fine, but really I don’t know and think it weird all these spots are available.

Upon returning to our site another car arrives and I realize I’ve parked us on two sites, but they park on the other side of the RV. Then the ranger approaches to let us know that the large group has paid for the site, bathroom included, and would appreciate no more guests using their facilities…oops. Caleb goes back to the booth to get enough tokens for us both to take six-minute showers in the morning. Now, it’s time for sleep.

Posted in Animals, Art, Camping, Education, Family, Food, History, People, Photography, Places, Plants, Things, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

It’s Raining Roses and Folk Music

photo by Caleb

photo by Caleb

We wake to a morning still covered in rain. The tent may be wet, but we are dry and the day will go on. We pack our things and make our way into town. This time we are determined to wait until the cheese factories, Tillamook and Blue Heron, open at 8:00 am which comes too late for either of us to want to eat more than cheese samples. We are both impressed with the massive amounts of milk and plastic and delivery trucks it takes to deliver this cheese to the States.

We are happy to learn that the creamery has been owned by farmers for over one hundred years and during that time they’ve seen a growth in business, their fair share of court cases, a reduction in production waste, and the phasing out of growth hormones in their milk. Once inside we get to see the cheese and chocolate, and the ice cream and deli counters. I leave with Seattle Chocolates and a bar of Ritter Sport white chocolate with hazelnut – my favorite addiction from Lindt Chocolatier.

drunk on pollen - by Caleb

drunk on pollen – by Caleb

I recently found a website (roadtrippers.com) that can help me plan stops along a route to see things related to history, nature, scenic routes, and tourist attractions. One of these is the Witch’s Castle which would be our reason for stopping in Portland today. It’s in Forest Park along the Wildwood Trail which just happens to be where lots of things are. We will find the Hoyt Arboretum first and decide to take a walk.

Inside the visitor center we are told to see the Japanese and Rose gardens first – if our time is limited. We go from trail to street and back. There are runners, park employees, and a construction team working on the road. We enjoy the layout of the path leading to the Japanese Gardens only to realize at the top that this one isn’t free. We walk in between the tennis courts and down the stairs to join the roses in looking over the city.

new growth in the Hoyt Arboretum - by Caleb

new growth in the Hoyt Arboretum – by Caleb

This is a large rose variety test garden where successes are released for commercial production and the others destroyed. The oldest rose was planted in 1943 by Grand Duchess Armstrong, one of thousands in a garden of 4.5 acres. We see every burst of sunset growing on these petals and shades of purple, blue, and bright pink. The only colors I don’t see are brown and green – perhaps too confusing with leaves and dirt. The red rose may be too popular for my liking, but this garden gains a certain reverence with me.

When we return to the parking lot we leash up the dogs and take them on a short loop to get them out of the car. We would like to take them with us more often, but Piggy can’t see and Sparky doesn’t know how to act right around other dogs. Luckily for us it hasn’t been proven yet that dogs can tell time so they have no way of knowing that we got to walk the longer, more beautiful, trail.

in the garden

in the garden

We drive back into town and then a little further north find ourselves in the parking lot of the Pittock Mansion. The place looks like it cost lots of money and I’m sure the rambunctious kids going on the next tour will be able to appreciate that, but I’m interested in something else. We inquire inside and the man behind the desk tells us we are in for a long walk. I don’t want to walk the 5.5 miles to Witch’s Castle via Wildwood Trail which would take an estimated two hours; we will find the closer parking area.

Back into town and I’m getting hungry. We are driving along a road and soon it becomes an industrial area…or so it seems with all the big buildings and their large tools and storage facilities. I turn down a street that should lead us back into the forest, but it dead-ends into a parking lot. I eat what’s left of a burrito from earlier and when leaving my chosen spot for lunch realize that we were sitting in the corner of a strip club lot – that explains the funny looks.

strawberry-cheese rose

strawberry-cheese rose

We finally find what we’ve been looking for. It’s down a road that goes through a neighborhood and ends in a cul-de-sac near restrooms and under a bridge. We get the dogs out and a guy carrying booze happily struts past us heading towards the castle. We’ve heard that it’s a party place, but we’re hoping that’s not the scene when we get there. Along the way are a few bridges to make Piggy want to turn back, but I’m glad they all have guidance boards placed at her height to keep her from jumping off mid-crossing.

The castle is as it should be – lonely, covered in moss and graffiti, and made of rock. There is no roof and it seems a railing has been added to keep people from falling off the second floor. A nice two-mile loop complete and on our way out we see the man with the booze standing by the river with his Discman (portable CD player) in hand – a good way to enjoy nature, a good band, and a relaxing bottle of 2:00 pm elixir.

Witch's Abandoned Castle

Witch’s Abandoned Castle

Now it’s time to move to the other side of the Columbia River and into another state to visit Fort Vancouver. We began our tour at the Marshall House built in 1886 for the Department Commander, the most famous one being Brigadier General Marshall who received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1953. It’s here that we will hear of the Grant House, the first structure built on Officers Row in 1850, and still open to the public today as a restaurant with live music.

There’s a lot of history in these houses and they served as happy homes for many officers and today they continue to serve as residences and businesses and office space. It’s good to remember the past and to include it in the present, but we have to continue to move into the future so that our great-grandchildren will have something more recent to look back on. The past is so comfortable because it’s what we know, but we have to think about our grandparents and parents who were uncomfortable with the use of cars and cellphones – and then thank them.

my feet on Officers Row

my feet on Officers Row

*President Hayes was the first President in office to visit the west coast and concluded that visit here.

I’ve learned that some elderly people get confused with all this new fancy technology and think that youngsters are trying to trick them, but this is a failure of their own doing. They’ve been trained to get set in their ways as 20 something’s and continue that tradition until their 40’s when their kids move out. Then they stay at a job they don’t like and wait for the grandkids to visit. They need to keep that love of life and learning strong so that they can aspire to enjoy every day with new-found flexibility.

And once a life lesson has been learned…I write it down for future reference…and then walk over to the fort to see what the fence hides inside. There is a large welcoming garden with flowers, herbs, artichokes, and pumpkins. One day Caleb and I would love to pick our dinner from such a fresh variety. On the other side of the wooden wall are a bunch of buildings and a couple remaining foundations. In the first home we learn that people had to sleep at an angle on their bed to fit most of themselves on it.

Marshall House

Marshall House

The kids’ beds folded against the wall to give them more play space and out of the nine kids the couple had (or most families of the time period) only four survived past the age of five years old. We learned about the China dishes and that the blue and white idea originated in the Middle East, but China perfected the art on porcelain – and that they still make for fine meeting dishes at the men’s table in the 1800’s.

We see other rooms with fiber, copper, pelts, cotton, porcelain, and rope. There is a display on patent medicines showing different bottles that were found on site and popular ads that would have helped sell these tonics consisting mostly of alcohol, opiates, and oils as ‘cure alls’ to the unsuspecting public. This also gives good reason why there were traveling doctors that made house calls. Once the patient realized their medicine was doing more harm than good, the doctor was already out-of-town. Or that’s just how the movies portray it and the physician was able to blame it on something else.

inside the Marshall House

inside the Marshall House

These false claims of healing drinks and powders caused President Theodore Roosevelt to outlaw false claims and require an ingredient list. Thirty two years later and President Franklin Roosevelt will sign an act giving the Food and Drug Administration authority to regulate the safety of medicines. Bayer Aspirin, Vicks VapoRub, and Luden’s Cough Drops survived as over the counter drugs with new formulas, but Coca-Cola and tonic water can now be found in the drink aisle – which doesn’t make soda any healthier for you now.

This is a large park and we know we can’t see it all today. We will drive from the visitor center parking lot, where we walked to the Marshall House, down to the Fort Vancouver lot, and then over to the Pearson Air Museum lot. Inside we are greeted by two volunteers who welcome our questions. Through the canvas door the exhibits look temporary or perhaps still that new.

house inside Fort Vancouver

house inside Fort Vancouver

We begin to look around and the man from the front walks in just as I have a question. I was busy reading about the spruce mill that could produce one million board feet of lumber each day when I thought about the Spruce Goose. He sadly informed me that we would have to drive back south 45 miles to McMinnville where it’s located and then goes on to tell us about another model plane they are building to add to the ceiling.

I hadn’t realized till now how many wing variations were tried on airplanes to get the best flight and stopping capabilities. I also hadn’t thought about the importance of the wood and the strength of its grain. I get overwhelmed a lot by the vast amount of information that is available to be learned in this world, but the more I expose myself to the same ideas the easier it gets to comprehend and expand on them.

view from the lookout tower in Fort Vancouver

view from the lookout tower in Fort Vancouver

I may have never been into building planes or flying them, but the people who were changed the world and my ability to travel quickly. I appreciate that and am glad that I can understand more about the environment they lived in (during freedom and war) to inspire them to risk their lives trying out new technology with no websites to help them pick tools, supplies, craftsman, and pilots.

With dinner time approaching we drive over to the Grant House to check out their menu. We are parked close enough to hear Sparky bark at the dog playing in the park. There is a special event happening in the back so they are only serving the bar menu. That’s fine with us as we see plenty of options for me and we choose a spot on the patio. I still want to take a look inside and get to see the catering, the bar, the bathroom, and the other diners.

in the Pearson Air Museum

in the Pearson Air Museum

We order a mango IPA that’s not hoppy and their red beer which isn’t what we were expecting either. To eat, we get the hummus plate and flat bread with tomatoes and balsamic. We make friends with our neighboring table. The man gets up and asks his wife to watch his chips (from what, we don’t know), but as soon as he’s gone she offers one to us and the table beside them and watches as they get eaten.

Historic patio, friendly company, tour group going by on Segway, and live Folk music by Tom May makes for a perfect evening. The main attraction is singing with another man who happened to write a song that caught my attention about traveling and speed limit signs. I wait until the music stops and approach the man about purchasing a CD, not something I do often these days in the world of iTunes, and he tells me to ask their photographer that tells me it will be in 45 minutes when they can man the booth.

dinner at the Grant House

dinner at the Grant House – by Caleb

It saddens me to walk away from this knowing I’m missing an opportunity to hear more of this man’s songs, but he doesn’t know that I still have to find a camping spot for the evening at the Millersylvania Campground near Olympia about a hundred miles away. And what we don’t find out until we get there is that most of the spots are reserved as a lot of the locals still appreciate their weekend getaways.

We had driven by the lake in our exploration of the park and seen a woman being trained in the art of rolling her kayak, and face, out of the water. We settled into a spot and then I asked a lady for the walking short cut to the lake to watch the sunset. She is here visiting her daughter and we walk to their site to ask. She is willing to walk me there herself, but I assure her I can find it. I just happen to approach from the large picnic area.

sunset at Deep Lake

sunset at Deep Lake

The sky is getting dark quick and the lady, though tiring, was still practicing. Here, I meet another traveler who also happens to be visiting his local son. He points to his truck with kayak on top as he explains the things he loves in life. The sunset was pretty though it was on the other side of the trees easily accessed on the other side of the park. Caleb approaches, to inquire about my photos and let me know my bed for the evening is ready, just as the mosquitoes are beginning to find out my blood type.

Caleb was able to find the actual short cut back to camp leaving me less to trip over in the dark as neither of us brought our headlamps. The bathrooms are well-lit, the kids have quieted down, and the camp a few sites down with a table full of booze is being respectful of these late hours too. Today will be our shortest mileage day yet. We are currently averaging 350 miles a day with 26 mpg and gas at about $3.82.

Posted in Camping, Food, Forts, History, Military, Music, People, Photography, Places, Plants, Travel, Water | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Spending a Day the Coastal Way

spying on elk - by Caleb

spying on elk – by Caleb

The fast part about waking up in a hotel is that there is no tent to break down (unless we have brought it in to dry it out). We are quick to let the dogs out of the cozy car to pee on the one bush and two fence posts nearest our parking spot before getting on the road. I will eat a partially ripe banana which is way better than any fruit not being ripe. I’ve had to learn that lesson the less tasty way letting my eagerness get the better of my taste buds.

There is a sign near the lagoons north of Patrick Point that warn drivers, and pedestrians, of possible elk sightings and road crossings. One of the perks of being up before the sun is not only seeing the usual three elk that like to stand in a ditch or lay in a field, but to see a herd of them amongst the trees, grass, and sand of the lagoon leaves us feeling luckier than a cat out of a bag. We are able to spy on them for a bit, but Caleb just had to have a certain angle and crunched one leaf too many.

a cloud forest

a cloud forest

They didn’t come stampeding our way. They know they’re safe here, but they got spooked and it took them from natural grazing to a weird huddle of paranoid looks. We backed away to let them resume their breakfast and were grateful to have spotted them in the first place below the bank in such a foggy morning. The fog covered the road, tree tops, and sand at the beach; it made for an eerie, yet beautiful sunrise on this dawn of Wednesday. And left us with a romantic feeling in the air – the power of love and travel.

We find it hard to not stop at every turn of the road offering us a different view of the forest and ocean and the cool temperature doesn’t help either. With a light jacket on I’m willing to put my toes in the cold sand and experience this moment fully knowing some people will never get the chance to be where I am now. It takes us three hours to drive from Eureka to Crescent City. Along the way we stop at the Palm Café and Motel for a pot of fresh coffee to refill our mugs. The man inside is happy for the business in the otherwise empty eatery. The city doesn’t suffer the same fate.

There are people walking their dogs and others seeing what the place has to offer as I’ve been able to do twice before. I take Caleb to the Whaler Island Groin and we both have fun climbing on the rocks looking for more starfish and other colorful sea creatures to photograph. What I didn’t expect to witness were some seagulls taking advantage of the fishermen’s scraps and fighting over the bloody end of a big-tailed fish, but since it’s nature’s course it’s more interesting than gross.

sea life in the groin

sea life in the groin

We drive to the other end of town. The first time I was here it was too late and dark to attempt to see the lighthouse up close. The second time it was high tide with an amazing view. This time it was low tide in the fog and we were greeted with blackberries on the boardwalk down. I’m excited to be seeing it and sharing this experience with Caleb while the dogs wait in the car. Upon crossing the rocks we will see the sign that says, ‘No Dogs’.

Caleb imagines that the tide gets high while we are on this side and that we are alone on an island…but his dream can’t come true today. There are three other couples exploring the tree with commercial-foam fishing floats, the picnic table with a bench facing a wall, and the lace curtains with lighthouses on them. It seems the keeper is home – perhaps working, or reading, or watching us. What a neat place to call home, even if only temporary.

Battery Point Lighthouse

Battery Point Lighthouse

We stop at the Beach Front Park so Caleb can throw the ball for Sparky while I eat a mango and let Piggy eat some of the skin. It feels good to have wet toes and sticky fingers. Then it’s off to an overlook south of Samuel H. Boardman State Park. We are the second car out of eight to actually take the path. The others pull in hoping for a paved stop and leave disappointed. The path starts narrowly between a sign post and a bush and widens among the trees. It narrows again as we walk by bushes and over roots and opens into a field overlooking the beach and the rocks and trees that live there.

We drive through Gold Beach, OR where Caleb’s grandma used to live until she moved to SeaTac, WA three years ago. We also remember the jet boat ride on the Rogue River we took in 2009 and smile as we pass Jerry’s office and loading dock. We stop in Port Orford for the outdoor restroom at a gas station and have to wait to get the key from the attendant. We meet a couple from Edmonton, Alberta that is surprised by this and not being able to pump their own gas, but with lower unemployment and more social programs Canada has less to worry about.

We talk for a bit and upon hearing our trip plans they recommend that we take Hwy 93 between Calgary and Banff for its view of glaciers and bears. We make our way to Bandon, a small town I’ve heard my dad mention before. As we walk around, I realize the many reasons my dad would want to live here – small population, ocean views, cheese factory, cranberry bogs, gorse fields, and large sea animals made of trash pieces.

Mr. Fucking Nameless Sally

Mr. Fucking Nameless Sally

Further north is the Umpqua River Lighthouse built in 1857, making it the first one in the Oregon Territory. The illumination was changed from oil to electricity in 1934 and its signal is visible for 19 miles. At the lighthouse is a pointed jetty that meets on a sandbar in the sea. On the rocks and in the water are hundreds of seagulls just sitting around not eating or mating, but planning their next attack meal at a local restaurant.

Before the trip we had written a few ideas of things to see or do or eat and Kentucky Falls happened to be on that list. We stopped at an information center to inquire about it and decided it would be too much of a detour for the rest of the day’s plans, but I would love to go back one day and enjoy two miles of temperate rainforest and a view of 85 foot twin falls. We will instead spend the day exploring dunes, a chasm, and a brewery.

Oregon Dunes - by Caleb

Oregon Dunes – by Caleb

The Oregon Dunes NRA is the largest expanse of coastal dunes in North America. We have no chance of seeing all the sandy area today, nor to enjoy all the activities that kept this park from being managed by the national park service attempted in 1963. As we are making our way up there is a kid sliding down on his butt. He managed to climb the hill, but once noticing the height of it was afraid of falling down. I wouldn’t want a mouthful of sand either on my way to get pizza.

There were kids on the other side playing with their dad racing up and rolling down the dunes while mom took pictures. There are a lot of access paths and the vegetation looks healthy. There are other dunes for OHV and horseback and there seems to be more cars in the lot than people on the beach. We have fun feeling the softness and the strength of the sand between our toes and up our calves.

Last time I was up this coast it was low tide, which means no high-water action for Cook’s Chasm and Devil’s Churn, but today’s water levels were only medium – enough for a show, but not the reason for their namesake. We will walk the Captain Cook Trail and look at the different colored algae growing on the rocks and in the tide pools. I love that Oregon has forest and field so close to the beach offering a variety of ecosystems within walking distance of each other.

fruit of the dunes

fruit of the dunes

Devil’s Churn was definitely getting bubbly, but not dangerous enough that young boys couldn’t be traipsing across the rocks throwing pebbles or shells at each other. Perhaps one day I will make it back to see the life-giving water splash into the inlet and spray hundreds of feet into the air; but for now the yellow foam, neon green algae, blue and gray sky, and the brown rocks will have to suffice as this stops enjoyment.

It’s nearing dinner time as we drive over the Yaquina Bay Bridge on our way to the Newport Café when we see a big building with ROGUE on it. We realize this must be the same brewer that makes Rogue Dead Guy and think it will be neat to look around. We park as it starts to drizzle and make our way inside. There are a lot of beer tanks, brews, and people in line waiting to eat and buy t-shirts. We didn’t want a line without a tour – and that seems unlikely today.

at Cook's Chasm

at Cook’s Chasm

On the other side of the river we find ourselves sitting at the counter with drinks in hand as I wait on my veggie breakfast burrito and Caleb waits on his Reuben served on wheat with thick-cut meat – not the best he’s ever had, but the fries are enough to help us both through dinner and I will be getting half of my meal to go. We backtracked down the road to a local grocery store for dessert. I asked the old lady behind the counter for a German chocolate brownie square (reminding me of all the times my mom and I used to go to Vic’s in Florence, TX and get one the size of my palm).

I realized my brownie was topped with cream cheese at check out. The baker was going home for the evening, but the girl working in the deli was more than happy to exchange it for me. I would eat my treat with a smile while watching the rain fall on the windshield as we made our way to Hebo Lake Campground – 49 miles from Newport and only 24 miles from the Tillamook Cheese Factory that we will be visiting in the morning.

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Welcome to Nice

hotair

It would remain mostly quiet throughout the night, but we heard some kids playing hide-and-seek near our tent; their side of the camp was a field and ours offered trees and hills to hide behind. Breakfast would be gas station pastries and a bottle of muscle milk each. It would be more convenient if gas stations offered more fresh fruit varieties. Today’s goal was to take the 12 and 128 west with other roads connecting until we would meet up with the 101 and Hwy 1 and take them north and eventually get to Oregon.

I missed an exit or a turn or both and we ended up on the 16 and 20 west, but there is no reason to stress – we’re together and we have a map. This detour would take us by Dixon where we watched three hot air balloons take off with at least twelve people in each basket. We stopped in a sunflower field around 8:00 am to let the dogs out and feed them breakfast. Caleb played ball with Sparky while Piggy and I looked around at the flowers and a spider or two that had built a home amongst the fallen stalks. It feels good to be on a road that we can pull over and see where our food comes from and taste a seed unsalted from the flower – not as crunchy as the bagged type.

sunseed

We drive along Clear Lake and stop in the town of Nice to visit their Lunchbox Museum, but we are a day late and two hours early. They are open MWF from 12-4 pm and we are here on a Tuesday at 10 am. Passing through Willits gets us both excited about the Redwoods that we will be hiking in soon, but I have a planned stop before that and we have an unexpected place to see along the way.

That place is near Willits – Ridgewood Ranch, the home of Seabiscuit, but he is not here today. The only people we will pass is a family watching a goat in a tree and a lady walking her dog in the street. Not a very busy place, but it is pretty and full of blackberries. The most ripe plant we have seen so far, but there are more thorns on our side as someone else has been here before us. It’s still nice to get a taste of nature even if it means getting scratched. We continue on the loop road past the campsite to the main road.

Outhouse Closed. Use outhouse 1.3 miles west.

Outhouse Closed. Use outhouse 1.3 miles west.

We stop in Jackson State Forest for a walk among tall trees, a closed outhouse, and slow running water. There are some wooden steps that caught my attention and a steep bank to the creek. I stop for some photos while Caleb lets the dogs out into the shade to pee on the greenery. We arrive in Fort Bragg, where I have planned to stop at Glass Beach, around lunch time. We stop at Pizza Factory where we get a medium veggie before the noon rush for the small buffet with salad bar that they offer.

We will eat a slice each before following the directions we were given to drive down the street and take a left. There is a large parking area and we grab another slice. There is a wide path that forks on the way to the beach and we take the one with the sticks laid out that spell Shelly with an arrow pointing right. There are signs prohibiting the collecting of glass (otherwise I might have taken one), but this didn’t stop others from loading their pockets and beach bags full. We debate putting on our superhero cloaks and saving the day or calling the fuzz, but if it were a big enough issue there would be security here.

kidglass

There are plenty of rocks colored from the sand, wind, water, moss, and flowers – some that we can walk on and others that would require a swim or snorkeling as we saw two people doing. There was a couple enjoying the view and kids enjoying the kelp. One rock had a few handfuls of glass separated by color. Caleb and I got closer to examine the spots and lines of the plants and animals that inhabit the area and found a lined shore crab. It feels good to enjoy something without taking something physically from it and ruining the moment for future visitors that want to stand in awe as we do now.

We got dessert after waiting in line at Cowlick’s Ice Cream Café. I got a double scoop – one of black forest (for chocolate lovers) and strawberry cheesecake. I sampled the mushroom flavor and Caleb got the candy store floor (a medley of candy bars) and we walked around town while I began to wear what melted off my cone. We tried to give directions to the place when asked by an interested passerby. It’s on the corner and shares the building with another business. I do believe ice cream cones are sold by sight of eye.

lined shore crab

Driving up Hwy 1 we notice a guy making cairns and pause for a moment to relish in his freedom to ride his bike and stack rocks on a very scenic American drive. A little further north in Westport is a whale made of what looks like two types of wire and cement that seems to fill an old pool in one of these houses’ old yards or perhaps this was where a home used to be before Moby Dick moved in.

Still in Garberville is the Blues Brothers car that made us slow down the first time we saw it and we’ve been stopping ever since. This time the driver is missing his head. We spent the rest of the daylight hiking in the Redwoods – a place that Caleb loves and wishes he could live. I suppose that’s possible after being raised in a town called Big Timber or being exposed to how happy it makes him to walk at the ankles of these historic giants.

We drive to Eureka for a night at the Travelodge, leaving the dogs in the car and going upstairs with leftover pizza. The room is $79 with a no-pet policy. This isn’t there first time and definitely not their last. I wonder how this would work out if the hotel had a no-kid policy. We feed them in the car and walk across the street to the North Coast Co-op for some shopping and find a large selection of things we love.

They have bottled Earth Thirst beer – one I grew fond of on draft in Crescent City, mangoes – the fruit of all that is holy (if I had a religion), and a bottle of lemon tea-tree lotion for Caleb’s dry hands. Back to the hotel. It feels good to shower and sleep in a bed, without dogs, giving me a better nights rest. Dogs can be great companions during the day, but their restlessness at night can make me need more coffee in the morning.

Eel River in the Redwoods

Eel River in the Redwoods

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Monday: Yosemite

Caleb on the edge at Taft Peak

Caleb on the edge at Taft Point

The second day of our trip and we are up early and feeling excited. We will leave the campground and enter the park as the sun brings light to the sky. I will eat some cottage cheese and strawberries for some energy to start the day. This will be my second time entering the park from this side and there is so much to stop and see when it’s not raining. We will see a fisherman set up on the dam as we make our way deeper into the park.

Caleb is just as amazed as I was to learn that Yosemite consists of more than a field with Half Dome in the middle. I’m happy to show him the same rocks and lakes and cliffs and trees and falls that I saw, but this time there will be a slight trickle where there was running water two months ago except for two waterfalls seen from Glacier Point. The strength of the falls depends on the snowpack during the winter – and this was a dry one. It’s also near the end of summer here and the temperatures are low. I’m sure more snow is on its way soon.

Tenaya Lake in Yosemite National Park

Tenaya Lake in Yosemite National Park – by Caleb

We have decided to focus on a hike to Taft Point as our main to-do of the day. This means driving partially down Granite Point Road – a sixteen mile drive found off the main road, and on the way will be a stop in the valley. Along the two-lane one-way road is a great place to stop and walk along a skinny path that takes you to mosquito infested water with a great reflection of the mountains. Piggy gets over excited, and being unleashed, makes her way over a six-foot muddy embankment.

We call out to her, but her blindness and eagerness prove too powerful and soon she is gone and heading towards the water. Caleb will hand me his sunglasses as he jumps down after her. I keep Sparky from joining the mud brigade and soon Piggy is rescued and we are back at the car with a wet wipe cleaning the dirt from her feet. Caleb checks for wounds, but I’m assured she’s ok because I heard no cries of pain. We will be keeping a better eye on her.

flowers on the Taft Point trail

flowers on the Taft Point trail

We park at the store parking lot, make me a sandwich, water the dogs, and walk to the visitor center. It’s not open yet, but is on our way out, so we will enjoy the rest of the park and come back. We park on the steep roadside leading to the trailhead to join the crowds of others that are enticed by the rocks that let your feet dangle over trees a hundred feet below. A little over a mile later in 80 degree weather, with the dogs parked in the shade, and we are getting close to the edge.

A girl cautions her husband on his braveness and I think of how my dad feels when I get close to deathly heights; she reminds him that she still wants kids. Already on Glacier Point Road we can’t not drive to the end to see the view from there – and especially the Half Dome hikers via the telescope provided. There is a line of children upon our arrival, but Caleb agrees the wait was worth it to see all the little ants that clambered up the trophy hill to take home their bragging rights.

cornfield near Stockton

cornfield near Stockton – by Caleb

We drive back into the valley, park along the fence in the large lot, and walk to the visitor center to get my passport book stamped. Leaving the park this time in daylight allows me to enjoy the different angled views that the switch-backed road has to offer; and to notice a sign near Angels Camp for the Mark Twain Cabin that was first built in 1922. It’s near here that Twain would get the inspiration for his story, The Celebrated Jumping Frog, that would be his first national success.

Large frogs can be seen in Angels Camp jumping over a hydrant, riding a bike, and shining in the sun. Every May there is an official competition and in Utica Park there is a life-size statue of Twain himself that was dedicated to the city in 1944. We drive through Stockton and take the 16 and 20 west to Brannan Island SRA. We are able to set up as the sun falls below the horizon. There is a party across the water at an available cabin, but it’s quiet under the tree at site 123 after a 317 mile day.

sunset over the Sacramento River - by Caleb

sunset over the Sacramento River – by Caleb

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